Wife's 48

[8man]

Thanks Tempest, and after doing the 54 without the firewall, I'm really wondering about the 48. So I'll have to get back on it to see.

[Gregski]

yep, this must be the German way of doing things... steps to install new ignition switch:

Step 1. Remove firewall

Step 2. Install new ignition switch

LOL

[8man]

I saw this done in the Marvin build. I liked the finished door, so I started on the rider's door to see how it would work.

IMG_0536 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

I finished the welds off and reinstalled the door on the 54.

IMG_0537 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

That black line is where I could not get the cut off wheel or the roloc in there to finish smoothing the weld. I can catch a fingernail, but I think it'll fill out and be fine. Now to do the riders door tomorrow.

[Tinbasher]

Looks good, what brand of latches did you use?

[8man]

Thanks Tinbasher. I used the Altman latches. They make a set for the drop down handle doors and a different set for the pushbutton doors.

[Tempest67]

looking good.

I may weld mine in, but for now, I want to get them on the truck and make sure they work OK........... maybe welding them in will be a good project next winter.

[8man]

Thanks Tempest. I've been opening and shutting the doors with them on while I worked on it, until I pulled the floor. They work great.

[Tempest67]

welding them in definitely looks better (much better), but I am afraid if I ever have to remove them for any reason, it will make the job much more difficult.


and I changed mine over with the doors off the truck, so I want to see them work.

You are making great progress, keep it going

[8man]

Got the Patriot H8036-1 headers in yesterday. I put them on and it looks like they are going to work.
IMG_0539 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

Got the tunnel for the steering shaft.
IMG_0540 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

So now I have to find something to do with these.
IMG_0538 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

[Gregski]

headers look good, I like that they appear to be symmetrical, sometimes one is way different then the other when it comes to downpiping them

so did you install all the spark plugs and plug wires just as a test, hard to tell in the pics if you did, I find that there's always at least one that is impossible to get to requiring a ding in the brand new shinny tubing, here's hoping that is not the case (I would dry install everything including the header gaskets, sometimes even that 1/16th thickness makes all the difference) and I love those rocker covers!

just trying to help
g

[8man]

Thanks Greg, and yes the plugs and wires are all in place. Two issues, one plug cap is really close to a tube. I'll have to see what needs to be done there. Also, the drivers side collector is really close to the tranny. I think it'll be fine, just really close.

[Tempest67]

you have a really nice build going on here.......... keep up the great work and thanks for posting.

[8man]

Thanks Tempest. I'm anxious to get the cab primed so I can start re-assembly for the 4th time to test fit everything, drill all the extra holes for electrical and then paint.

The rider's door is giving me fits. It is an original door on the original cab, but there is about 1" of a gap at the top. We moved the hinges up as far as possible, then cut out the dash support at the top, moved it up and then got the top hinge up a little more. We just finished oversizing the holes in the door part of the hinge and moved the door up again, and it is still a little low. So now we are going to weld onto the lip of the door to make up the difference.

The "we" is not the ecumenical we, but an old friend who owned a body shop for years. He's really dong that part, I'm just a helper, learning what to do. I must say he has cussed the assemblymen a few times.

Anyway, I hope to have it back on the frame soon. But we know how that goes...

[Tempest67]

I am using the stock manifolds on my SBC build, and I find that the driver's side is real close to the frame, maybe 3/4 inch?? , but lots of room on Passenger side.

Are your brake and fuel lines far enough away from the downpipe? as I ran mine on top of the frame (can't tell from the pics)

sorry, not trying to be a PITA, just want to make sure you wont be going up in flames

[8man]

Thanks Tempest.

I have a good amount of room on both frame rails, so I don't think that will be a problem. I don't have the cab on yet, so I have not completed the brake lines. I think I'll have enough room, just need to get the cab on and see where I am.

[Tempest67]

Oh good, I am glad that it's OK.

I just ran my fuel line yesterday and the job is still fresh in my mind.

I don't remember steel line being so difficult to work with.......????


keep up the great work

[Gregski]

with such easy access to the engine, I would strongly recommend testing each one of those MSD spark plug wires for resistance one by one, MSD of today is not the US Made MSD of 20, 30 years ago, my buddy Pontiac Mike had me test my brand new MSD wires reluctantly, and it took three sets to compile one good set of proper resistance spark plug wires

also, please test them in their natural position so on the engine, and not laid out flat on the work bench

"MSD’s 8.5mm Super Conductor Wire will measure about 50-ohms per foot of wire while the Street Fire brand wires have about 500 ohms per foot. As an example, if you have a 4-feet long Super Conductor wire, the resistance should be about 200 ohms. The important thing to check is that the resistance values of your wires should be consistent throughout the entire set. Lengths will vary the values, but they should all be within a similar value."

Coils and Spark Plug Wires Trouble Shooting

[8man]

Thanks Greg, I will.

[84blaze]

Really like what youve done with your Altrman latches. I plan to do the same as I dislike the bolt on look.

[8man]

Thanks. I went back and forth on welding them in and finally bit the bullet and just did it. I do like the look better. The catch on the jamb will remain silver and adjustable.

[joedoh]

those look great!

[8man]

Thanks Joe. Now to get the cab back on and see if it all clears properly. Cab is still being worked on, but soon I hope.

[8man]

Ok, I know some of you were thinking I had QUIT! Not so, I've been doing stuff that is really BORING and time consuming too. So here is what has been done.
IMG_0561 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr
This door was almost an inch low with the hinge taken all the way up. So there was a little bracket inside the A pillar that was cut off and moved up above the hinge, welded back in, and with that and a little oversizing the holes, it finally got the top gap right. BUT the latch was too low as it was in the stock position. So I had to drimmel out the four holes in the B pillar for the catch and then four holes in the door so I could move the Altman latch down and I got the1/4" I needed to get the door to close, latch and look correct and not rub on anything.

IMG_0560 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr
Then there was all the sanding, priming, bondo, sanding, priming, ad nauseum! Did I mention that when I was about 12 my dad had me do the sanding on the cars he painted to make a little side money. Until I left home that was my job! I HATE SANDING! Ok, enough venting on that subject.

IMG_0559 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

Now the entire cab is primed. NO it is not a perfect prime job, but it is covered and ALL the body work is finished and it won't rust! Yes, there is MORE sanding in my future, but I have a few days of fitting the frame, so when I can get back into the shop, I'll test fit the body on the frame with the new 350 and the 700R4 and see if I need to do any tunnel work. I'm keeping my fingers crossed, but if I were a betting man...

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by 8man

Ok, I know some of you were thinking I had QUIT! Not so, I've been doing stuff that is really BORING and time consuming too. So here is what has been done.

This door was almost an inch low with the hinge taken all the way up. So there was a little bracket inside the A pillar that was cut off and moved up above the hinge, welded back in, and with that and a little oversizing the holes, it finally got the top gap right. BUT the latch was too low as it was in the stock position. So I had to drimmel out the four holes in the B pillar for the catch and then four holes in the door so I could move the Altman latch down and I got the1/4" I needed to get the door to close, latch and look correct and not rub on anything.

Then there was all the sanding, priming, bondo, sanding, priming, ad nauseum! Did I mention that when I was about 12 my dad had me do the sanding on the cars he painted to make a little side money. Until I left home that was my job! I HATE SANDING! Ok, enough venting on that subject.

Now the entire cab is primed. NO it is not a perfect prime job, but it is covered and ALL the body work is finished and it won't rust! Yes, there is MORE sanding in my future, but I have a few days of fitting the frame, so when I can get back into the shop, I'll test fit the body on the frame with the new 350 and the 700R4 and see if I need to do any tunnel work. I'm keeping my fingers crossed, but if I were a betting man...

Great job Robert, you do quality work and those who have done it or tried know how difficult and hard it is, but the payoff will be great, keep grinding or [ahem] ... sanding I guess?!

P.S. I once replaced a perfectly adjusted wrong '72 door on my '71 cab (it was the wrong door as it was a change over year) with a proper '71 door that now won't shut, I drove the truck from my house to my mamas with a bungee cord holding it closed so that I can free up my garage for the '54. So question is: are your spectacular door fitment services mobile???

[8man]

HA! Yes they are, but I'm not sure anyone could afford them. However, if the 71 showed up at my house, I'm sure we could work it out.