1971 Stepside LS Build

[TA_C10]

Ugliest blanket I ever saw

And I second that "wife for the win"! I take pics of my wife when she helps otherwise nobody would believe me lol.

Interested to hear about the window sash issue. Currently my windows go all the way up, but it's like the glass is too short because the metal track that holds the window hits my sash as well and pushes it up / past it which is weird. But if you got taller glass, then you would have to modify the stop to allow it to go lower inside door. I think that's the only way to fix this issue from what I can tell.

[1971Stepside]

Ugliest blanket I ever saw

And I second that "wife for the win"! I take pics of my wife when she helps otherwise nobody would believe me lol.

Interested to hear about the window sash issue. Currently my windows go all the way up, but it's like the glass is too short because the metal track that holds the window hits my sash as well and pushes it up / past it which is weird. But if you got taller glass, then you would have to modify the stop to allow it to go lower inside door. I think that's the only way to fix this issue from what I can tell.

I bought a SuperDuty in 2000. That blanket was the only good thing about that truck. It has come in handy for years now, but it is ugly like its namesake.

That is exactly what my windows are doing. I've researched it and it seems like most everyone has the same issue. I may pull the inner fuzzy and try some fuzzy side of velcro as I can squeeze my doors together tighter with the 72 reinforcement screw under the vent window.

[TA_C10]

Originally Posted by 1971Stepside

I bought a SuperDuty in 2000. That blanket was the only good thing about that truck. It has come in handy for years now, but it is ugly like its namesake.

That is exactly what my windows are doing. I've researched it and it seems like most everyone has the same issue. I may pull the inner fuzzy and try some fuzzy side of velcro as I can squeeze my doors together tighter with the 72 reinforcement screw under the vent window.

Uh, huh? Do you mean your track won't pass up through your fuzzy sash and rubber sash on outside? Because they are too close together your thinking? I'm assuming this, as the velcro would be thinner, and it wouldn't have a ledge to hang up the track.

Here is a pic of what mine does, you can clearly see the rusty window track between the sash and rubber strip. Mine doesn't hang on the fuzzy side, it actually grabs the rubber side on its way up, but it doesn't stop it from going all the way up. I bought new window regulators too FYI.



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[1971Stepside]

Mine seem to be hanging up on the fuzzy side and not the outside rubber sweep. Same thing though...the metal sash that attaches to the glass hits the fuzzy and tries to push it up. I can push a little on the glass and it will then clear the lip of the fuzzy and allow the metal sash to come all the way up and sit in between the sweeps.

[sprint_9]

Window sweeps for these trucks and me don't get along. Mine also hit the inner fuzzy, the only part mine would catch is where the window regulator attached to the window. I marked that area and put it into a vice and smashed it, I stayed just below the top lip of the sweep and you cant really even tell, that seemed to help quite a bit.

[TA_C10]

Originally Posted by sprint_9

Window sweeps for these trucks and me don't get along. Mine also hit the inner fuzzy, the only part mine would catch is where the window regulator attached to the window. I marked that area and put it into a vice and smashed it, I stayed just below the top lip of the sweep and you cant really even tell, that seemed to help quite a bit.

Im still undecided on outside sweeps, Id like something better than stock which isnt asking much.

By outside sweep you mean the rubber seal? Inside fuzzy is the "sweep", outside is the rubber seal, correct?

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[TA_C10]

Hey 71step, did you use those rubber pads between your frame and bed cross sills when you did final assembly? My bed is sticking up too high with them on. The cab and bed lines don't match up, bed too high.

I know these aren't factory, the rubber pads are aftermarket, but I noticed in Mar-K instructions they say to use them on these trucks..... Shoot, those rubber pads are thick, I would have to shim my cab mounts big time to make this work is what I am thinking..... ugh...

.

[1971Stepside]

Hey 71step, did you use those rubber pads between your frame and bed cross sills when you did final assembly? My bed is sticking up too high with them on. The cab and bed lines don't match up, bed too high.

I have them and used them in test fits with no problem, but I'm still waiting on the bed to be cut and polished so I can assemble it. When I test fit the bed with the pads it all lined up (keep in mind the step bed is more forgiving) but, the cab wasn't fully tightened down like it is now.

If it doesn't work, then I will just use some thin rubber like from and inner tube.

Sprint....more details on what you did with the windows please.

[C10ENVY]

just read this entire thread. Absolutely beautiful build. You should be very proud. Im just starting my build from the frame up with a very rough cab but I will one day reach the finish line. Your build gave me some ideas as well so thank you for that.

You are almost there!!! I know you have to be stoked!

[1971Stepside]

just read this entire thread. Absolutely beautiful build. You should be very proud. Im just starting my build from the frame up with a very rough cab but I will one day reach the finish line. Your build gave me some ideas as well so thank you for that.

You are almost there!!! I know you have to be stoked!

Thank you. I appreciate you taking the time to look through. Glad you got some ideas for your build. Keep at it.

Couple small updates that felt bigger than they probably should. I got the column back from paint and got it installed. Immediately, feels more like a complete truck being able to sit behind the wheel.

I then worked on the door locks. These are my originals and man they put up a fight going back in. I didn't think they should be that difficult, but in the end they are in. Another little thing that makes the doors look finished.

I've started wiring and I'm still waiting for the bed to be cut and polished.

[TA_C10]

Looks good man. I know your anxious lol but you might have to lower your column again to get your gauges in.

[1971Stepside]

I know your anxious lol but you might have to lower your column again to get your gauges in.

Yes, that is expected and pretty simple to do. Just don't want it flopping around while doing wiring. Scratches are not cool at this point

I'm really not anxious about getting it done. It's now going into winter. I have lots of time before it needs to leave the garage. I'm more anxious about making the project last all winter so I have a project LOL

[TA_C10]

Originally Posted by 1971Stepside

Yes, that is expected and pretty simple to do. Just don't want it flopping around while doing wiring. Scratches are not cool at this point

I'm really not anxious about getting it done. It's now going into winter. I have lots of time before it needs to leave the garage. I'm more anxious about making the project last all winter so I have a project LOL

I figured you had a plan And good point, I forget you have winter!!

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[1971Stepside]

Bench bled the master cylinder and bled the brakes this weekend. So far, no leaks. The pedal has a more positive feel, but never got hard. Not sure if it is because the hydroboost hasn't been bled yet or not. Will have to circle back obviously, but at least I know there is fluid in the lines and they aren't leaking.

I started the fabrication of a piece to mount all of the under hood electrical connections on. This will mount to the inside of the core on the drivers side. Planned to do that yesterday, but ended up pulling the grill off and adjusting a lot of stuff I wasn't happy with from the shop. The grill does fit much better now, but in the process I got my first paint chip Hopefully, they can fix it.

Now, back to wiring...

[MDPotter]

Oh man. The first chip is the most painful.

The pedal might change a little bit once you have it running and moving fluid through the booster.

[TA_C10]

Ouch! that sux.... Bummer you had to adjust any of that in the first place... I like the PDU panel. Question, is your battery in the engine bay? Can't remember if you relocated or not... You want those mega fuses as close to battery as possible is where I am going with this. If your battery is in engine bay you should be good.

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[1971Stepside]

Ouch! that sux.... Bummer you had to adjust any of that in the first place... I like the PDU panel. Question, is your battery in the engine bay? Can't remember if you relocated or not... You want those mega fuses as close to battery as possible is where I am going with this. If your battery is in engine bay you should be good.

Yes, it sucks. I looked at it again at lunch. I'll touch it up for now and once it is all done I will take it back to the shop to clean up what I mess up. Part of the process I guess.

My battery is in the stock location. I should be close enough to the battery with the fuses.

[1971Stepside]

While I was standing around in the garage last night after work (still in my good work clothes) waiting for the wife to go eat, I grabbed the welder and tacked on my tabs for mounting this up to the core support. No burn holes in my pants or shoes

Now to clean it up and paint it for final assembly.

I found this Dodge Charger manual cover from 1968. Got a kick out of it and thought I would share.

[IronCanine]

Continues to look good. Nice progress. Feel your pain on the chip...assembly on fresh paint...just part of it. But you really can't use too much masking tape on finished parts when fitting.

The Charger manual is very funny.

Thanks for sharing...and keep up the outstanding work...so close!

[MDPotter]

Nice, clean install. You Chevy guys are lucky you only have two headlights, it's the better design and gives you more real estate.

Haha that's clever on that manual.

[siggyfreud]

My brake setup (hyrdo into baer cylinder) gets very firm so it's possible you don't have the hydro boost fully bled. With the vehicle running if it's not fully bled you'll often get a "groaning" sound when you press the brakes. FWIW it took me like an hour of back and forth wheel turning and pumping the brakes to bleed my setup the first time. And if you start it up and let the pump cavitate, gotta start over, so it's good to have a second person there ready to quickly add more fluid.

[1971Stepside]

My brake setup (hyrdo into baer cylinder) gets very firm so it's possible you don't have the hydro boost fully bled. With the vehicle running if it's not fully bled you'll often get a "groaning" sound when you press the brakes. FWIW it took me like an hour of back and forth wheel turning and pumping the brakes to bleed my setup the first time. And if you start it up and let the pump cavitate, gotta start over, so it's good to have a second person there ready to quickly add more fluid.

This is good to know. I will get the hydro bled manually and see what that does before I get the wiring done where I can restart the engine. Thanks!

[Custom 68]

Nice progress it is coming together nicely.
Dave

[siggyfreud]

Originally Posted by 1971Stepside

This is good to know. I will get the hydro bled manually and see what that does before I get the wiring done where I can restart the engine. Thanks!

Go lock to lock 5 times, press on the brake 3 times, check fluid, repeat. Setup your phone with Netflix or music you like, as you'll have to repeat this 20-100 times to get it bled.

Once you're ready to start it up do the same (once you've made sure the pump doesn't cavitate on startup), but don't go full lock to lock to avoid added stress on the pump. Might make a very slight groaning noise at full, hard brake press, but that seems normal (kind of like full hard lock with power steering).

[1971Stepside]

Had a good weekend tinkering around on the project. Installed the headliner on Saturday morning. It was a fight for sure. The clips on the cheap plastic chrome trim don't want to stay in the slots. Most of them keep popping back out due to the thickness of the headliner. Plan B. Don't know what Plan B is, but I've got to come up with one. I use some windshield caulk to stick it up there. Put a little velcro in place to hold it up until the black gunk set up.

I also decided to test fit the glove box door to make sure I didn't have issues. I also needed something to work on that I thought was a win after the headliner. Of course, this has to come back off to finish up the under dash fun (see next post).