What did you do to your truck today? Chapter II

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

I had built a cart for the entire front clip, but paint is a go and the hood is with the painter. The inner fenders soon follow. Hood fits perfectly inside our beds BTW, a fleetside anyway.

At any rate, I've been itching to build a platform to lay the cab on its back off the cab cart. The front clip cart is no longer needed, so I disassembled it to build the platform. Still cost another $30, but the platform takes more weight.

The platform & cart bolt up using threaded rods, to disconnect from either side (a MUST). With the padding the platform is level to the cart. Should make for an easy transition on and off the cart.

When I'm bored I'll add stakes to hang the fenders, and some eye-bolts to tie down the cab..................Happy to say this should be the last cart I build for this project.

[john@thepier]

Brought mine home from storage to sell it. Breaks my heart, but after 13 years of trying to sell my property to become a Bison rancher, getting rid of toys is my last ditch effort. Probably should have started selling toys first. Bolted every thing you see here together since yesterday and will bolt the rest together tomorrow

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Learned about leaf springs tonight. Just penetrating oil and a heat gun to pull them. Discovered the lower shackle bolts are a real *&*(&%(%. Those bolts took a lot of punches with a 3/8" ratchet extension and hammer.

Sure has taken me a while, but I've learned a lot. Happy to say the much better end is close. All that's left are the front suspension and engine/trans. I'll probably pull the front suspension next week.

[mud.man.rj]

Mmm, big block, cool project.
Mudman

[jethro5333]

installed the 700 r4 trans AGAIN! bought a reman from a company in Richmond Va. put it in and it never worked right. took it to a trans guy near me who went through it and found LOTS of stuff wrong. after going through it (and installing a shift kit) , it cost me more than the original one. in the long run, it probably cost as much as a performance trans from Summit, Jegs, Monster or any of the other places. OH WELL. lesson learned. hopefully this will be the last time. I'm getting too old to do this stuff by myself.

[stevenfromtexas]

put my evaporator in last night and laid some insulation down to see how it looks

[beaterku]

Well, I was able to get the bed off and rear end out this weekend. It ended up being a little father son bonding time with my dad. I made a little video about it as well. This weekend I am going to remove all of the rivets, clean up the frame a bit and start laying out holes for the coil spring crossmember and track bar crossmember.


https://youtu.be/k1tx_uXx6bw

[farmer71]

I removed the front clip, old engine and transmission to make way for ls swap. Triedadding pictures but wouldn't go

[stevenfromtexas]

took apart my gauge cluster and painted the needles and bezel....oh and rolled back "in time a few miles". Need to touch up a few spots but I was very happy how it turned out

[Colt_1911]

I re-worked my original door panels. removed all the old vinyl and prepped and cleaned the panels than I re-wrapped them in new black vinyl. polished the levers and chrome strip. Turned out super clean.

[rsgt]

Fixed my hood from shaking. Sounds nice and solid when I shut it now. I bought some pipe insulation from walmart for $3.00 only used on piece. I use a razor knife and sliced it in four pieces and just used my fingers to push it between the hood braces.

[In The Ten Ring]

rsgt,

Good idea! Thanks for sharing.

Yesterday I put the temporary fuel line from pump to carb together. I even put in a filter there too since the AN fitting I put into the carb wouldn't allow the paper filter to slip in.

[stevenfromtexas]

ditto!!

great idea on the hood fix!!! i had a set in my LMC "cart" waiting on you guys to come up with a better way.

[toolboxchev]

Originally Posted by stevenfromtexas

ditto!!

great idea on the hood fix!!! i had a set in my LMC "cart" waiting on you guys to come up with a better way.

I used a product called horse stall mat. They also use it in the trucking industry to control loads from shifting. It comes in various thickness and fit the gap near perfectly. Secured it with some thin wire and its quite durable. Even cut some and made floor mats for the cab! Does a great job with sound deadening also!

[VWNate1]

Just make SURE that you're using closed cell products ! anything that will absorb water _will_ cause rusting sooner than you think, I live in the Desert and nearly lost the cab floor in my 1946 Chevy 3100 pickup due to this .

[In The Ten Ring]

Good point VWNate.....

I just tried to start my truck but the coil is not firing. Dad and I trouble shot it some but without eliminating all possibilities, but it seems to be a bad coil. I posted a question about it.

[stevenfromtexas]

installed my RetroSound Hermosa radio today. gonna get started on some wiring tomorrow afternoon

[stevenfromtexas]

Originally Posted by VWNate1

Just make SURE that you're using closed cell products ! anything that will absorb water _will_ cause rusting sooner than you think, I live in the Desert and nearly lost the cab floor in my 1946 Chevy 3100 pickup due to this .

thank you for the heads up!!

[NoStopN]

Originally Posted by stevenfromtexas

installed my RetroSound Hermosa radio today. gonna get started on some wiring tomorrow afternoon

I'm glad that you started this. Does this stereo wire up like a stock classic radio or more like a newer model vehicle? I'm used to '90s-up style radio wiring & I heard that these trucks are wired much differently. I may just do a hidden newer model radio, but I will have to figure out what would be needed to start from scratch.

[SoCoC10]

Ground down the welds from all the floor and outer rocker repair on the 69 C10 CST short bed I'm working on. Then replaced the broken turn signal switch, reassembled the steering column correctly after some hammer and dolly work on the column shift stop area. Now it all fits back together. Installed the column shifter linkage I got from member "Oscar's Classic Bow ties" so the column shifter works now. Removed the shift cable from the HIDEOUS B&M floor shifter. Didnt get to unbolt the shifter from the floor before I ran out of daylight.

[In The Ten Ring]

Attempted to start the engine yesterday. It didn't start but at least the new fuel line I made from pump to carb is not leaking.

It appears the coil is bad, will try again with another coil today.

[VWNate1]

Before replacing the coil _TEST_ it using any old multi - meter, even the free/$5 ones from Harbor Freight :

#1 : set meter to 20 volts DC and see how much current is actually reaching the coil via the yellow ignition wire : should be 9 volts +/- with the key on and jump to 12 volts when you turn it to the 'start' position .

#2 : disconnect the coil's wires and set the meter to OHMS, zero it and test across the two small terminals : if your truck gives 9 volts to the coil, the resistance across the two smaller terminals should be right around 1.6 OHMS (same as any old 6 volt system) .

If it feeds 12 volt to the coil in the 'run' position you'll need a 3 OHM Coil ~ this is very important .

I know you can use any old 1960's ~ 1974 GM coil on a 9 volt system but if you really need a new coil (pretty rare FWIW), go to NAPA and buy an EPOXY FILLED ONE as they never fail .

If you get 12 volts to the coil, it needs an internally ballasted one, go to NAPA and ask for a 1972 VW Beetle 1600 coil, EPOXY filed of course, it'll out last you and the rig both .

RE: the old, nasty crappy TH350 column shifter : I took mine apart and boy howdy was it ever worn out ! I needed to drive the rig so I carefully cleaned out all the old rock hard grease, dirt and rust, lint etc. lubed it all up with the correct long fiber grease (I used white lithium Lubriplate prolly #107) , re assembled it and disconnected the tranny shift rod and Lo ! not only does it work AS NEW, it also now makes that wonderful (might be horrible to you) original "CLACK - CLACK - CLACK" sound it did when it was new and I was a Yoot in the Dealer....

Then I shimmed up the floppy shift rod and adjusted it carefully where it attaches to the bottom of the column .

The older geezers like me all heard it when I next pulled up at the Shop and nodded approvingly .

Most mechanical things on these fine rigs can be taken apart, cleaned, lubricated and adjusted to work well again ever when they look pitiful .

Of course, nothing beats a cool Locar shifter if that's your desire .

(DAMN that thing is LOUD )

[In The Ten Ring]

Thanks,

I just read that to dad and he wanted me to be able to read it when we went back over to my garage. I don't have wi fi at my house but I did email it to myself.....I can load that page and then leave the laptop on. Thanks.

[In The Ten Ring]

Duplicate post.

[CRIDD]

Adjusted hood so it sits better and lines up perfect.