Restoring Rusty

[Gregski]

and here is the driver side, again the bend right before the pipe goes over the rear axle

some day I will take out the grinder and re weld these spots, but not today, though my buddy Pontiac Mike says his pro muffler shop deliberately puts in drip holes in the state of the art exhaust systems they build for their customers to allow the condensation to drain, hmmm, am I on to something here by accident?

[hatzie]

Originally Posted by Gregski

and here is the driver side, again the bend right before the pipe goes over the rear axle

some day I will take out the grinder and re weld these spots, but not today, though my buddy Pontiac Mike says his pro muffler shop deliberately puts in drip holes in the state of the art exhaust systems they build for their customers to allow the condensation to drain, hmmm, am I on to something here by accident?

If it's just a pinhole I'd leave it so the condensation will continue to drain out instead of rotting out the pipe

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by hatzie

If it's just a pinhole I'd leave it so the condensation will continue to drain out instead of rotting out the pipe

I started doing just that on muffler shop aluminized set-ups. I would drill a super small hole just to allow condensation somewhere to drain.

[MikeB]

If you can't hear a pfff, pfff, pfff noise from the holes, they're probably OK as is.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by MikeB

If you can't hear a pfff, pfff, pfff noise from the holes, they're probably OK as is.

thanks

[Gregski]

so I've been driving myself crazy over the past few months trying to tune out a small Idle Issue I have, not sure it's quite a hunting idle, but here's what the problem is:

Either in park or in drive my RPMs go up 50 or down 50. So I should idle at 550 RPM in Park, well I can see it drop to like 490 or go up to like 590 I also see timing go from 19* where it should be down to 16* or as high as 25*

I understand that the PCM adjusts the timing via the Idle Adaptive Spark Control aka Overspeed and Underspeed to pull the RPMs back to the desired Idle RPM, but I don't know what is causing the RPMs to be off in the first place.

My MAF grams per second may very 5.1 to 5.2 (and the frequency goes from 2527 to 2510 for example) and timing goes 21* to 20* so is that it? is that enough of a change and what can be done to make the MAF less sporatic, is it time for a new MAF?

My MAF is attached to the OEM air intake so it is the stock distance from the throttle body. I am using a cone air filter though i tried the OEM air box and stock air filter as well. Also I tried cleaning my MAF, I also tried a second MAF (same part number) I happen to have a spare and of course I re calibrated it, as it was reading up to 12% lean.

I will probably post this in the LS Swap section as well for better chance of someone seeing it

[hatzie]

What are your O2 sensor readings doing?
Can you graph your Idle speed, MAF, O2, IAC, EGR, Timing and maybe fuel tank pressure along with fuel pressure, if you have those two available, in realtime and log them for playback with your diag package?

[Gregski]

just a quick update spoke to a few pro tuners / instructors, and this appears to be normal, here's a quote from Andre Simon of HP Academy

"Yes that's totally normal. The ignition timing is used to help control the idle speed and as such it will jump around significantly in order to control engine torque."

[KQQL IT]

Yours a fly by wire or cable pedal?

Friend did an LS in a c60 with 6 speed and it would stall randomly at lights and ended up having to relearn the pedal parameters

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by KQQL IT

Yours a fly by wire or cable pedal?

Friend did an LS in a c60 with 6 speed and it would stall randomly at lights and ended up having to relearn the pedal parameters

Mine is a cable throttle body, less complex. I've heard of the condition you are describing on drive by wire applications, see Andre from HP Academy explain how to address it here using the

Engine \ Idle \ Airflow \ Effective Area

Percent Max
Percent Max - Brake

217 | Idle Tuning HP Tuners - GM/HP Tuners

[Jeramy]

I have been gone for two years and when I come back to check in and BOOM you done went and done it.

As usual you jumped in with both feet, made a mess and then made it awesome. Rusty is looking great.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Jeramy

I have been gone for two years and when I come back to check in and BOOM you done went and done it.

As usual you jumped in with both feet, made a mess and then made it awesome. Rusty is looking great.

Thank you, welcome back to the circus act, and that's what you git for leaving!

[Gregski]

looks like I finally get to replace the front brakes on Rusty for the first time

so learned they came in two flavors light duty and heavy duty, I thought I had the heavy duty ones but judging by the bearing part numbers I don't think I do

the original rotors had a nice rubber seal on the inner bearing the new replacement ones don't - shocking!

new pads don't come with the inner pad clip that you snap into the single piston to help you hold the pad in place, and one of my old ones broke so that installation was fun, as a third hand would sure have come in handy, lol

[hatzie]

I'm not a fan of the AutoZone or National Chinese bearings. Eastern Europe is just as good as USA made and I'd take Japan, Korea, and Taiwan sourced bearings over those made in mainland China or India. FAG and some SKF bearings are still made outside of China and India... and some Timken taper bearings are still made in the USA or they are old stock.
I just bought six Timken SET6 bearing sets for the tine shafts on three Troy Bilt Horse I tillers and one Horse III tiller that I'm rebuilding along with ten Timken SET2 for the main shafts and eight sets of FAG 6201 bearings etched Poland. The Timken bearings are all etched USA and they cost around $8 each.

The parts guy at AutoZone couldn't find the proper grease seal? It's a separate part.

The GM part number for the grease seal on the 1974 GMC RWD front brakes should be 3857731 if the GM parts books are to be believed.
AC Delco lists 290269 for LD front brake rotor grease seal. That doesn't cross to the GM part number in the 73-78 parts books... It's possible I looked it up incorrectly but it lists 73-78 CP- 2,3, M.H.C and CP-1 on page 943 of the parts book.

[Factory Guy]

Originally Posted by Gregski

one of the first things that had to go was the ugly heavy duty (nothing wrong with) rear bumper. think of this, this way, Rusty was a long time hard working race winning thoroughbred, who has now earned the right to retire on the green pastures and enjoy the easy life (hardest gig he'll ever have is fetching a Christmas tree for us once a year, hee hee)

Umm yeah, I pretty much broke all four big bolts holding on that heavy beast to get it off, I didn't know I had it in me, that type of super human strength (what's that you can clearly see the cheater bar in the pictures, nah)

Only bumper I have seen that matches mine!

[LT7A]

Originally Posted by Gregski

there is a short list of advantages of cold humid days

This cracked me up and I'd appreciate it if you would send me that list. We get to endure plenty of those days here although not as many as some folks. The replies regarding leaving condensation drains in your exhaust pipes makes good sense to me. When you see a car puffing out vapor and then pulling away from the light with water running out the pipes like a garden hose you start thinking that it would be good to have a blowhole at the low point.

[texxxan]

Wow!! After a full month, I finally reached the end of this thread. I sure hope that this isn't the end by any means. I enjoyed reading and learning all about you and Rusty's mischievous adventures. This is top notch material. Thank you and please carry on. The world is a better place with you and Rusty in it.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by texxxan

Wow!! After a full month, I finally reached the end of this thread. I sure hope that this isn't the end by any means. I enjoyed reading and learning all about you and Rusty's mischievous adventures. This is top notch material. Thank you and please carry on. The world is a better place with you and Rusty in it.

Ah Mate, that totally made my day! Thank you so much for leaving such a kind note. [so all it took was a World Wide Quarantine, copy that!] and here I was considering selling it (and parlaying the money into a car for my kids), here is a short list of things coming up for Rusty.

1. replace the Intellitronix digital gauges with AutoMeter Sport Comp IIs (the cheapo Intellitronix digital speedo and tach just wigg out for some reason when my turn signals or headlights are on, intermittently [pronounced: hardest to troubleshoot] however the fuel, oil, water, and volts gauges work just fine, all gauges use the same common ground and same common 12v key on, strange!

2. get the OEM bench seat reupholstered professionally using the new foam I stock piled over the years and replace the Dodge Dakota bucket seats I have in there now

Oh, yeah, I almost forgot, here's what's been keeping my knuckles bruised the last few months: A '54 named Busty

[texxxan]

Oh, I'm already on page 4 of that thread. The Quarantine has affected many, but I still go to work and come home like always. I am really liking Busty as well, but Rusty has a special place in my heart. I love old cars and trucks and I definitely love learning and then doing. You provide so much motivation. Thank you.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by texxxan

... I love old cars and trucks and I definitely love learning and then doing...

... hmmm, you don't say: INNOVATE DLG1 Wideband O2 Oxygen Sensor Tuning Diagnostics Logging Air Fuel Ratio etc

this should cure your insomnia or prevent you from getting it, ha ha

[MikeB]

Originally Posted by Gregski

1. replace the Intellitronix digital gauges with [B]AutoMeter Sport Comp IIs. The cheapo Intellitronix digital speedo and tach just wigg out.

2. get the OEM bench seat reupholstered professionally using the new foam I stock piled over the years and replace the Dodge Dakota bucket seats I have in there now

I have used the regular Sport Comp gauges on 3 vehicles over the years, and really like them. You do get what you pay for.

I bought a vinyl seat cover from LMC and had a local shop install it for $150. Makes the interior look like new (except for the door panels).

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by MikeB

I have used the regular Sport Comp gauges on 3 vehicles over the years, and really like them. You do get what you pay for.

I bought a vinyl seat cover from LMC and had a local shop install it for $150. Makes the interior look like new (except for the door panels).

Thanks Mike, I love that clean look of your cab! Do you have a photograph of your AutoMeter gauges in this square?

[MikeB]

These are 2-5/8" Sport Comp gauges in a 55 Chevy car I used to have. My 82 truck's are 2-1/16" that are also mounted below the dash. I went with the smaller size because someday I'd like to mount them and two more gauges in place of the idiot lights.

I see where mine are "air core" type, whereas the Sport Comp IIs use a stepper motor. Here's an informative article on gauge types.
http://newvintageusallc.mybigcommerc...tor+gauge+work

[MikeB]

Just shot this photo of my truck's gauges, and just had to brag on my cell phone holder and USB charger.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by MikeB

These are 2-5/8" Sport Comp gauges in a 55 Chevy car I used to have. My 82 truck's are 2-1/16" that are also mounted below the dash. I went with the smaller size because someday I'd like to mount them and two more gauges in place of the idiot lights.

I see where mine are "air core" type, whereas the Sport Comp IIs use a stepper motor. Here's an informative article on gauge types.
http://newvintageusallc.mybigcommerc...tor+gauge+work

Thanks Mike, I love that stick thang poking out of the floor, (yeah you try to show me the gauges and me the idiot is staring at all the other stuff in that cabin, ha ha) and yeah I learned all about the little gauges and how they come in the smaller size ie the 2 1/6th like my current Intellitronix which are a tad too small for our Squarebodies, and then the slightly bigger 2 5/8th like my new AutoMeter (pronounced: Expensive) ha ha ones

The problem I have with AutoMeter is that they give you 90% of what you want with any of their product lines, like for example you love the black face and the white lettering but then they give you stupid red needles, or you love the gauge but it don't come with a black bazel but silver and sure they'll custom paint it for you for $25 bucks per gauge, I know that for a fact cause I called them and we had words, hee hee

appreciate the link, yeah I still don't get all the stepper motor and different gauge technology I think I need take an AutoMeter night class at the local junior college or online