What did you do to your truck today!

[westbrookw]

Powder coated some drums yesterday.
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[VWNate1]

Originally Posted by SCHRUMGMC

Like the orange paint

I do have one question about paint

I need Ocean Green and Havana Beige Paints ...can a Lowes do it or what ?

There are OnLine Paint sources that $ave $erious $ .

First you have to figure out what kind of paint you want , single or multiple stage and so on .

Du-Pont has a very good Vintage Color Paints Program indeed , it goes by the original color code , NOT CHEAP .

I too like that Orange , looks very sweet .

Last night I drove my truck to a Car Nut gathering at a shop that apparently does rust repairs and custom body works ~ I talked to the owner and will take my truck there during business hours to let him look at my rusty cab & see what he thinks , co$t$ involved and so on .

To - day (Friday) is another work day for the rig , I have some rusty unobtanium gas tanks I have to take to Gas Tank RENU U.S.A. and another shop in Wilmington , see who does the best job on them .

[jabborabbo]

So far I've spent about 3 hours trying to get the #@!*&%#@#@ left brake drum off my 67 GMC....

[Tshort1]

PB Blaster, Remove the parking brake, find deep well socket to fit over studs, slide socket over studs and beat socket Hard with hammer. Then beat around edge of drum untill it losens up. repeate steps above with mover force untill it breaks free. if that dosent work some have threaded holes 2 of them, find bolts that fit and tighten them in, they act as a press to press of the drum. Hope that helps a little. Dont be scared to hit the crap out of it.

[jabborabbo]

Originally Posted by Tshort1

PB Blaster, Remove the parking brake, find deep well socket to fit over studs, slide socket over studs and beat socket Hard with hammer. Then beat around edge of drum untill it losens up. repeate steps above with mover force untill it breaks free. if that dosent work some have threaded holes 2 of them, find bolts that fit and tighten them in, they act as a press to press of the drum. Hope that helps a little. Dont be scared to hit the crap out of it.

I can see very very very slight movement around all the studs and the hub/axle when I use a screwdriver to pry between the drum and the backing plate - there's one spot on the hub/axle where I don't see much movement at all, though. I've backed the brake star adjuster thingy all the way out - if the drum was worn on the inside such that the brakes were keeping it from coming off I would get some kinda loose wobble in the drum when I pried on it from opposite sides, right? If it is the brake shoes holding it on, how do I deal with that?

[Ol Blue K20]

Originally Posted by jabborabbo

So far I've spent about 3 hours trying to get the #@!*&%#@#@ left brake drum off my 67 GMC....

Back the brake shoes off alot....otherwise a small piece of C4 will remove it

[Square_78]

Installed my slam ss7 bags in front today. Much better than the ss6
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[jkeating1]

Originally Posted by Square_78

Installed my slam ss7 bags in front today. Much better than the ss6
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So the problem of having to put in super high pressure went away with the Ss7's? Are the specs on the 2700's comparable to SS7's, as far as pressure-to-lift?
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[Expat_dude]

Yeah baby!!


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[glider_6969]

My new clutch finally came him in, hope to do my new motor install this weekend, I waited over a week from on parts place later to find out it was on back order, I got fed up with them when to another parts place got it the next day, I should have known better

[longbed67]

Fired up my turbocharged Inline for the first drive!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z3MvI...ature=youtu.be

[hart11b]

Changed the tranny fluid/filter (didn't even make a big mess).

Changed the engine oil/filter.

Got the windshield wipers working and installed some new back-up light gaskets on my non-functioning back-up lights.

[profe56]

Took away the manual transmission crossmember, now that the engine is not installed and I had a lot of free space to work.

[TexasK5]

Started the changeover from the Stewart Warner gauges I installed 18 years ago to some sweet new AutoMeter gauges.

[dishow]

Shop logo'd the 67.



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[vidman]

All Sheetmetal went to the cleaners..

[glider_6969]

Put the new clutch on and got the motor ready on the lift, dropping it in tomorrow,

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[AustinScott]

Wow what a long day...
Did the final work on the transmission, installed a new trans cross-member, and reinstalled the transmission & exhaust...

I had to drill new holes for the cross-member.... not to bad, just something I didn't expect I would have to do.
I got the lower holes drilled for now, need a longer drill bit to do the uppers.

One thing I can say after the test drive.... WOW what a night and day difference the new valve-body & torque Converter made...
During the short test drive I fell in love with this truck all over again.


Here are a few pics...
Ill post more details about the cross-member and the hole offset in a different thread.








Scott

[VWNate1]

Scott ;

Is that tranny cross member better than the original ? if so why ? .

My '69 C/10's tranny cross member is beat up so I dunno if I should just go buy a cheap if perfect used one or what .

I drove my truck to the local Pick-A-Part where I spent the whole day stripping a '59 Metropolitan Nash FHC , it was 20' from a cherry '71 (?) long bed C/10 Custom Camper that was obviously some old Man's baby before getting abandoned in the carport and scrapped after he died . another RUST FREE CAB .

A few of the good guys from right here stopped by as I was working to say 'Hello ' ~ I was really busy and so didn't chat much but I always enjoy seeing you fine , hard working guys out and about .

Right next to me was a 1950 Chevy 3100 , another Old Man's rig that SHOULD NOT have been junked , it was a Low Rider and even had front disc brakes on the (rebuilt) original axle , boy howdy was there ever a crowd around it , all new chrome and window lifts , door latches , on and on....

A nice rust free cab too , I was there when the yard opened until about 3:00 PM and there's not much left apart from the bare cab , Muncie SM420 tranny , an open drive shaft rear end (hard to find and good to have) , bottom end of a later 235 C.I.D. engine and the rebuilt front axle ~ the two guys who got the disc brakes worked diligently for hours to get them off .

Another fine old rig that should have been put back on the road but many (like 50 +) guys were oh so happy indeed to get parts off it .

I need to check my spark plugs as it began to miss on the road home , it's been a while since I swapped them 'round and it still burns 1 quart every fillup

.

[AustinScott]

Originally Posted by VWNate1

Scott ;

Is that tranny cross member better than the original ? if so why ?

.

I decided to go with a different Cross-member for two reason, more exhaust clearance & more pan bolt access.
The stock cross member and a 2004r transmission do not play well together.
The rear pan bold is almost impossible to get off & harder to get back on and tight.
This cross-member was cheap, well build & has all the clearance in the world for pan bolt access.
One slight dislike i have found is the E-brake cable, it rubs slightly on the cross-member, due to the cross-member being a bit further back than the stock.

Let me find a few pictures to show you what I mean.....



TH2004r and stock member

Not that great of an angle, but you can see the rear bolt has only a fingers thickness between the cross-member & the bolt head.
This is with the larger mount as well



This is the E-brake cable on the stock member.








TH2004r and POL's Cross-member $65.99 LINK



This is the E-brake cable on the POL Cross-member. Slightly touching in the "off" position





Hope that helps.

Scott

[nlped]

^^^ that's one beefy trans crossmember! I'd flip those lower bolts though. They'll get scuffed on something and those threads will be ruined.
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[AustinScott]

Originally Posted by nlped

^^^ that's one beefy trans crossmember! I'd flip those lower bolts though. They'll get scuffed on something and those threads will be ruined.
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Thanks for the input... But what you don't see in that picture is the exhaust.
It hangs below the frame rail. So the bolts are not in danger...
But the true reason I put them in this way is just in case they come loose and the nut falls off... the bolt will have a better chance at staying in place.
But good eye tho

Cheers!

Scott

[Shyguy]

Originally Posted by AustinScott

Thanks for the input... But what you don't see in that picture is the exhaust.
It hangs below the frame rail. So the bolts are not in danger...
But the true reason I put them in this way is just in case they come loose and the nut falls off... the bolt will have a better chance at staying in place.
But good eye tho

Cheers!

Scott

I always put bolts in the same way for the same reason. It works.

I bought a '75 C-30 and when crawling underneath to check things out I notice the rear transmission cross-member was bolted in and that a couple of nuts had fallen off, but the bolts were still in place from the top.

[AustinScott]

Originally Posted by Shyguy

I always put bolts in the same way for the same reason. It works.

I bought a '75 C-30 and when crawling underneath to check things out I notice the rear transmission cross-member was bolted in and that a couple of nuts had fallen off, but the bolts were still in place from the top.

Yeah I had something similar, check out this photo of when I had the exhaust redone. This was still the TH400 at the time.

Notice any bolts on the passenger side of the cross-member... OK it had one.. on the top rail... But all the others had fallen out.



Scott.

[Mr.Hyde]

Applied undercoating to the inside of my bed panels. Can't say it's the most fun part of the build. Note to self wear sleeves and rubber gloves next time.
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