S10 Swap how to

[joedoh]

awesome news! glad to hear it chris


Mains52, I have hung a motor and trans in the hole using a cherry picker, jacks, and holding my tongue right to weld in mounts. level the frame first, then level the motor 4 degrees down towards the rear. keep a little offset to the passenger side (use the oval holes on the top of the s10 frame to the cast line on your trans) and keep the motor straight in the frame. by the time you set everything where it needs to be, you can tack in your mounts.

[skymangs]

Originally Posted by joedoh

awesome news! glad to hear it chris


Mains52, I have hung a motor and trans in the hole using a cherry picker, jacks, and holding my tongue right to weld in mounts. level the frame first, then level the motor 4 degrees down towards the rear. keep a little offset to the passenger side (use the oval holes on the top of the s10 frame to the cast line on your trans) and keep the motor straight in the frame. by the time you set everything where it needs to be, you can tack in your mounts.

that seems like a lot of work. i just use a chunk of 2x4 betweenthe oil pan and crossmember and a jackstand under the tailshaft.

if anyone is interested one of my builds is for sale in kc. he's asking 10k, and in my opinion it's well worth it. it is a 52 gmc on an s10 chassis with a 4.3/700 and a disk brake camaro rear. it is currently titled and licensed. this is literally a turn key truck, and you know i build 'em right! here's a link to the build pics https://www.facebook.com/pg/OSGcusto...55911077861390 i'll post a current pic and his # as soon as i get them,

[skymangs]

here are some pics of when i delivered it.

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by skymangs

that seems like a lot of work. i just use a chunk of 2x4 betweenthe oil pan and crossmember and a jackstand under the tailshaft.

unless you were lifting the engine into the frame with your bare hands, your way is one step more than mine.

[skymangs]

Originally Posted by joedoh

unless you were lifting the engine into the frame with your bare hands, your way is one step more than mine.

of course i use a hoist to lift it.

[Mains52]

Originally Posted by skymangs

of course i use a hoist to lift it.

You guys crack me up.

Joedoh: Thanks for the tips. I was able to get it leveled and lined up. I got my mounts tacked in this past Friday. I used a little of your technique mixed with a little of Skymangs technique.

Skymangs: I very glad to hear you're doing well. I've only been on here a little while but you seem to have a huge support group and following here and I am one of them now . Thanks for all of your tips and info.

[skymangs]

you bet, just trying to "pay it forward"

[Mains52]

Skymangs, I would like to use my stock steering column. Is it possible or no?

[gigamanx]

Stock S10 engine question. I have the V6 in a 1988 S10. Do I keep the radiator and fan or do I need to replace those for a slimmer model to fit the Chevy 3100 front clip on? Second question, do I need to move the engine back or forward at all or is it ok in its spot and I just use the cab mounts to get the cab and fenders in the right place around the existing engine?

Thanks!

[52ratrod]

Skymags, im glad to hear your doing better and i want to say thanks for this thread. It would be nice to put everything in a book for reference.

My question is and i dont know how much was covered but what do you do to make your box supports and how you mount them. I might have missed it after read 700+ post on this thread.

Or if anyone knows the post number would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

[OutlawDrifter]

skymangs, I saw the 52 GMC while browsing CL yesterday, figured it was one of yours.

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by gigamanx

Stock S10 engine question. I have the V6 in a 1988 S10. Do I keep the radiator and fan or do I need to replace those for a slimmer model to fit the Chevy 3100 front clip on? Second question, do I need to move the engine back or forward at all or is it ok in its spot and I just use the cab mounts to get the cab and fenders in the right place around the existing engine?

Thanks!

you have to move the motor back about 8.5 inches. you can keep the radiator and fan if you box in the inners for a radiator mount but most guys just use the 19x22 rad and add a trans cooler and electric fan. see my booger thread for mounting the stock s10 rad.

edit: I realized I asked skymangs the same exact question as you before I did my first swap haha. I was hopeful not to move the engine too.

[gigamanx]

As always, thanks for the post JoeDoh. Not sure I could have made it this far without your responses. Funny now that I have the S10 blown apart and I look at your Booger build thread, everything makes sense and looks right. I must be learning something! Any chance you have a picture of the V6 motor mounts? Do I just build an adapter plate with an 8.5" offset or is there more to it?

I'm finding myself with more and more questions simply because I am planning a few steps ahead and working on steps I know I'm good with. Obviously blowing apart the truck wasn't terribly difficult, but I didn't want to damage anything I wanted in the future. Looking ahead, I have to start thinking about what gets fabricated first, what I need to fit back on first, etc.

Just have the passenger side electrical and ECU to take out and the cab can come off.

[joedoh]

my fenix project is a 91 s10 like your current truck, and I go into detail on how I built and lined up the motor mounts. remember that you need exactly 16.5 inches between the mounts center to center, dont let them get wider as you go back.

also in this thread skymangs does a great job explaining how to hang the motor and build mounts.

on my first one (47 gmc) we built a bolt in adapter plate that moved the engine 6.5 inches, it needed a little more and it didnt make sense to use a plate to do that on the 49

[skymangs]

first of all thanks for all the props. i'm no where near the first guy doing this. i just thought i'd take a little of my time to share my knowledge and experience. i found it frustrating on my first build that no one would give up any real info.

gigamanx, 52ratrod and Mains52 spend some time reading the first few pages of this thread.

and mains52, you can use your stock steering column, classic parts sells a bearing that will convert your closed column to an open one.

for thoseOf you who don't know, I lived with my dad for the last six months. We were involved in a terrible traffic accident on 12 May, my dad passed six days later in the hospital. I am now living with my sister in northern Iowa. I still plan on coming all truck nationals though

[gigamanx]

Originally Posted by skymangs

first of all thanks for all the props. i'm no where near the first guy doing this. i just thought i'd take a little of my time to share my knowledge and experience. i found it frustrating on my first build that no one would give up any real info.

gigamanx, 52ratrod and Mains52 spend some time reading the first few pages of this thread.

and mains52, you can use your stock steering column, classic parts sells a bearing that will convert your closed column to an open one.

for thoseOf you who don't know, I lived with my dad for the last six months. We were involved in a terrible traffic accident on 12 May, my dad passed six days later in the hospital. I am now living with my sister in northern Iowa. I still plan on coming all truck nationals though

Funny you say that, I was just reading the first 10-15 pages again today. Every time I take a major step in the project and reread this thread things become a little more clear. Great example is using the brake pedal mount from the S10. Totally makes sense now haha

Sorry to hear of so much loss in your life. I can't imagine what it takes to fight through the day but I'm glad you're doing alright.

[skymangs]

Thanks, it's been a rough couple of years.my wife decided that she didn't want to take care of me for rest of my life, so she filed for divorce, and she's trying to be very greedy.

[joedoh]

ouch! sorry to hear that!

[oldman3]

Originally Posted by skymangs

Thanks, it's been a rough couple of years.my wife decided that she didn't want to take care of me for rest of my life, so she filed for divorce, and she's trying to be very greedy.

Damn, sorry to hear this Chris, prayers that things start going your way...Jim

[gigamanx]

Hey skymangs. I did the muriatic acid dip as you suggested for the frame rails but it seems there is still a slippery coating of some kind on the metal. I'm wondering if I diluted the acid too much in water before applying. The container says 120z per gallon of water. Also, there is a bit of surface rust on the rails; am I ok to wire wheel that down to metal before I do the acid part or will that push the wax into the pores?

Thanks!

[skymangs]

Originally Posted by gigamanx

Hey skymangs. I did the muriatic acid dip as you suggested for the frame rails but it seems there is still a slippery coating of some kind on the metal. I'm wondering if I diluted the acid too much in water before applying. The container says 120z per gallon of water. Also, there is a bit of surface rust on the rails; am I ok to wire wheel that down to metal before I do the acid part or will that push the wax into the pores?

Thanks!

It will push the wax into the pores. I never dilute the acid, I just apply the acid directly to the frame.

[gigamanx]

Originally Posted by skymangs

It will push the wax into the pores. I never dilute the acid, I just apply the acid directly to the frame.

Tried your suggestion. I must be doing something wrong. I apply the muriatic acid with a toothbrush so its localized. Seems like its working, but there is still rust and patches of black (I'm assuming that's the wax) I've tried a couple of times and the best result I ended up getting so far is a light wire wheel to get the rust off then hit it with muriatic acid. I dissolve the acid with ammonia to neutralize it. I'm working on little patches to figure out the right combination.

Still not happy with the spotty results I'm getting. Maybe I bought the wrong stuff?

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Jasco-Green...9-538a2e6cad36

You can see in the pic. The middle section had naval jelly for 30 min then wire brush then muriatic acid then ammonia. Seemed to get pretty clean after all that. The other two sections had muriatic acid only as well as the side of the frame. It didn't seem to get through the rust very well.

[b-mac]

Originally Posted by gigamanx

Tried your suggestion. I must be doing something wrong. I apply the muriatic acid with a toothbrush so its localized. Seems like its working, but there is still rust and patches of black (I'm assuming that's the wax) I've tried a couple of times and the best result I ended up getting so far is a light wire wheel to get the rust off then hit it with muriatic acid. I dissolve the acid with ammonia to neutralize it. I'm working on little patches to figure out the right combination.

Still not happy with the spotty results I'm getting. Maybe I bought the wrong stuff?

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Jasco-Green...9-538a2e6cad36

You can see in the pic. The middle section had naval jelly for 30 min then wire brush then muriatic acid then ammonia. Seemed to get pretty clean after all that. The other two sections had muriatic acid only as well as the side of the frame. It didn't seem to get through the rust very well.

I'm interested in this answer as well. I never had a ton of luck with the muriatic acid. I use a combination of wire wheels, sanding discs, and flap wheels until it's as clean as I think it's going to get, then follow that with phosphoric acid...let that sit for 20-30 min (keep it wet), then wipe it off. Seemed to weld OK.

[skymangs]

That is the right stuff all right. I never had any difficulty with it, I just applied the muriatic acid then the ammonia. The water after the ammonia to dilute it. Then I am free to weld the cab mounts on. I have never had all this trouble. Maybe it's not perfect, I don't know.

[OutlawDrifter]

On the first couple of pages it is suggested to use a 32" column, would a 33" column be too much? Or can I get away with that?

I've found one I like, but it's the extra inch.