Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed

[88Stanger]

Ok, Update time with Pics!!

The first set of pics are of the issue that I found (I may have posted before, but this is for a comparison anyways). This issue has to do wit the Rack, "Old School power steering pump" and the steering rod.
As you can see in first pics, the old school pump is way to large to allow the steering rod to reach and operate the rack.

[88Stanger]

This next set of pics is of the routing for the steering arm. Some parts are from the full kit that Unisteer sells. It get close to the headers, but not bad. 1/4" or more clearance. BUT You must add an alteration to the frame.... as you can see.

[88Stanger]

These next pics are of the new Type 2 Power Steering Pump that will have a remote reservoir. Also, you can see that I need to make a slight addition to the frame AGAIN for the 10AN fitting elbow that is on it way. This new pump lines up great with the March Crank pully and I will have full adjustability with it.

[88Stanger]

Overall, I am very pleased with how it all came out. Took alot of time, ordering parts just to return the parts ... lol Anyways, If anyone needs part #s or help with doing the same install, please feel free to message me, more than happy to help as I can.

With all that said, As I mentioned earlier, I am still waiting on some parts... the upper universal joint is not the correct size on one end (it is 1" not 3/4" DBL D) but I made it work for mock up, the 10AN PTFE hose and fittings I am still awaiting.

Other than that, all is going good.

One question left though for you all, it is in and shown in next message.

[Paul Y]

Nothing to add other than, apart from the issues, looking rather good.

P.

[Arne]

Still following the steering shaft bit. My POL rack still hasn't arrived as yet, but I have the pump mounted using an Alan Grove bracket kit. It looks fine, but I don't know what the shaft clearance is going to be like.

[88Stanger]

Originally Posted by Arne

Still following the steering shaft bit. My POL rack still hasn't arrived as yet, but I have the pump mounted using an Alan Grove bracket kit. It looks fine, but I don't know what the shaft clearance is going to be like.

Sounds good. The main issue with the power steering is how it mounted and hit the universal joint for the rack. I tried a Gen 2 type pump with the reservoir attached and that too hit, so I got this Gen 2 type with remote reservoir. It is alot of hose running but I do not mind that, I just use PFTE hose. The other thing to note is that you must reduce the pressure from the pump. Stock GM is 1200 to 1300 lbs and the typical rack wants 800. They sell what the call a ford pressure pump that is for GM, this has the reduced pressure or you can buy the reducing valve that installs into the pump. In my case though, I need the higher pressure for the Hydroboost, but then need to reduce it, so I had to buy the Heidts valve to be able to adjust he pressure to the rack as I like. It has been an adventure learning all this about the pump, hydorboost and a rack system .

[Arne]

Originally Posted by 88Stanger

The other thing to note is that you must reduce the pressure from the pump. Stock GM is 1200 to 1300 lbs and the typical rack wants 800. They sell what the call a ford pressure pump that is for GM, this has the reduced pressure or you can buy the reducing valve that installs into the pump. In my case though, I need the higher pressure for the Hydroboost, but then need to reduce it, so I had to buy the Heidts valve to be able to adjust he pressure to the rack as I like. It has been an adventure learning all this about the pump, hydorboost and a rack system .

You may want to look at the pressure info and specs again. The "typical" rack conversion that requires pressure reduction to ~800 psi is the old hot rodder favorite Pinto/Mustang II rack. The POL rack for our trucks is based on a mid-90's Dodge Dakota, and should be fine with the higher pressure. I emailed POL tech support and Erick confirmed that the higher pressure from the Saginaw-type pump was fine with their rack, no pressure reduction needed.

[88Stanger]

Originally Posted by Arne

You may want to look at the pressure info and specs again. The "typical" rack conversion that requires pressure reduction to ~800 psi is the old hot rodder favorite Pinto/Mustang II rack. The POL rack for our trucks is based on a mid-90's Dodge Dakota, and should be fine with the higher pressure. I emailed POL tech support and Erick confirmed that the higher pressure from the Saginaw-type pump was fine with their rack, no pressure reduction needed.

Oh damn, nice!! Then I can return the 135.00 valve to speedway!! lol

Again, thanks for the update. That helps too with routing!! You saved my butt Arne!!! thank you

Jeff

[88Stanger]

Ok, so I got the steering rods, universal joints and heim joint installed, routed and completed, well for now until I do the tear down for paint. Once I got it worked out, it went together really nicely.
BUT Then I tried to fit the new Radiator support and new fenders onto the new inner fender wells. OH DAMN, the fitment sucked! The Rad support went on fairly easily at first... then after close inspection... ya not so well. There (as expected) alot of adjustments, cleaning burrs, hammer and dolly need, and such to get it to fit, but it really does fit now. The main issue was the damn lower Radiator support bushing! There was 1.5" gap where the two main rad. bolts and bushings sit! I bought the bushing mount kit for this and it was only about 1/2" thick, leaving 1" of open space, UNTIL I tried to install the fenders, and figured out that the inner fenders need some persuading.. But, after test fitting the old fender I found that most of the issue is with the inner fender, not outer fender. Anyways, after some slight adjustments with the inner fender... they all mounted up rather nicely and the Rad support bushing kit worked great... now! LOL

[SkinnyG]

I made a curved piece of 1/8" steel that I threaded for bolts, and slipped the curved steel inside the '68 column I used in my '61, plug welding it to the column housing.

Also took the opportunity to move the column closer to the dash (I had drilled three sets of holes, for testing), or at least until the NSS got close to the firewall.

Apparently I took no photos of this.

[88Stanger]

Originally Posted by SkinnyG

I made a curved piece of 1/8" steel that I threaded for bolts, and slipped the curved steel inside the '68 column I used in my '61, plug welding it to the column housing.

Also took the opportunity to move the column closer to the dash (I had drilled three sets of holes, for testing), or at least until the NSS got close to the firewall.

Apparently I took no photos of this.

SkinnyG
Thanks for the idea. I was thinking of doing similar. still looking at ideas... lol I do have my steering wheel as close to the dash as possible currently, this for my larger frame but also so that as i figure out the steering shaft in the engine compartment I will have some possible movement away from the dash if needed in future, if that makes sense.

[Braunschweiger]

That's real engineering, great work.
I can't help with the steering column. I'm sure you solve it.

[Duncan K]

I am at the same point with my aftermarket steering column. I figured I would just drill and tap the column for a couple bolts. The holes drilled just fine but I have stripped out 3 taps so far. Not sure what kind of steel the column is made of but it sure is hard!

[88Stanger]

Originally Posted by Duncan K

I am at the same point with my aftermarket steering column. I figured I would just drill and tap the column for a couple bolts. The holes drilled just fine but I have stripped out 3 taps so far. Not sure what kind of steel the column is made of but it sure is hard!

REALLY!?! that is amazing! Very interesting... how thick is the material you are drilling? I have drilled and tapped alot of metals and never had much issue unless there is a bind in the tap and material, as in two pieces of metal are mashed together and then as you tap it one starts to move and other does not and then they bind up, maybe? interesting though.... I was honestly going to try this exact same thing.

[88Stanger]

Originally Posted by Braunschweiger

That's real engineering, great work.
I can't help with the steering column. I'm sure you solve it.

Thank you sir. It has been some time to figure out but I really do not mind much. I like figuring out a solution to a problem and help others along the way if I can. Like alot of things, there are 100 different ways to make it work, finding the one that works for you me is the fun part. LOL

[pdxhall]

I didn't use an aftermarket column but I did use a '71 Camaro tilt column and I modified the stock mount to hold the column. If you're interested the mod starts on post 528 on my build page.

[88Stanger]

Originally Posted by pdxhall

I didn't use an aftermarket column but I did use a '71 Camaro tilt column and I modified the stock mount to hold the column. If you're interested the mod starts on post 528 on my build page.

Thank you sir! I just went and looked at your build, page 528. I like the idea. I am using the Clutch bump stop though, but your idea does give me another idea though. Thanks again.

[zden]

I wrapped my column with a piece of rubber about 2" long right where those holes are. After I tightened up the bracket its not going anywhere.

[88Stanger]

Originally Posted by zden

I wrapped my column with a piece of rubber about 2" long right where those holes are. After I tightened up the bracket its not going anywhere.

Another idea to consider... sounds like the easiest so far. lol

[88Stanger]

So here is a diagram of hose routing. Please do not laugh to hard at the drawung

[SkinnyG]

I bought the pressure reducer kit for my Hydroboost/Fox-Mustang-Rack install, but I'm going to run it as is first, to see whether it needs it or not. No point making more work for myself.

[88Stanger]

Well I have some updates to post here tomorrow. Got the fenders finally mounted mostly, look great, had some alterations needed but all good now. With that said, the damn radiator... what a pain... lol not really but when you go from stock smaller in all dimensions to much bigger, aluminum 3 row .. the stock lower mounts will not work. So I just bent up my own, got them looking good just need to be powder coated and then rubber attached. With that said, I am working on getting the radiator top mount in from LMC and then start the power steering / Hydro-boost line routing and power steering pump reservoir mount figured out.

BUT in the mean time I got a new "toy" to play with, a 1940 Chevy Master 85 Coupe that is about as far from stock as possible (fits me... lol) It is on a full tube chassis, 383 stroker, turbo 400 manual valve body, narrowed for 9", ladder bars, wheelie bars and rear tires that are just crazy wide = 31"tall x 18.5" wide x 15"! Tires are Bias ply with tubes and NOT cheap!! LOL anyways, I will post pics here tomorrow.
My plan is to just get it up and running good to take to shows and continue on the "66. I just do not want to rush the "66 to finish... that never turns out well.

[Braunschweiger]

Congratulations that it worked. Great model, the coupe.
Nice also the progress on your Truck.

[88Stanger]

I apologize that this is not about the "66 it has a connection to it in that the reason i am not on it is because of this, the 1940 Chevy Coupe I got as a "Gift from God".
As mentioned before i am getting this running good and very drivable now so that i have a show/play rig while i am building the truck.
So anyways, i got to speak to the original builder of the car, Ronnie Vice in Alabama. The motor is a 383 cu in block .30 overbore, with Billet Splayed main caps, Eagle Steel Crank, Lunati Rods and Pistons, Hell Fire Rings, Victor Jr aluminum Heads and intake, Turbo 350 built to the teeth with shift kits and 3000 stall, Frod 9" Rear with 31 spline axles shortened and reinforced along with a Detroit Locker and 4.56 gears rotating 31"x18.5 x 15" DOT tires. He put more into the motor than i paid for the entire car he said. Unreal, but anyways, been working on the Brakes and such on it. I would post pics but not sure if that is ok to do here.