"Project Orangepeel" 52 A.D

[reaper71]

Unfortunately, This has been done on these trucks before...I love the way it looks,so that's why I chose them.

Mark...

[RockinKees]

Nice!
I think they look great your truck!!

[yj4000]

That is going to look really cool!! I have a hard enough time just repairing back to original. You have great skill and motivation.

Ryan.

[youngrodder]

I have always liked the way those buckets look on trucks, plus it give you a place to mount the turn signal besides in the grille.

Marc

[reaper71]

Kees,Ryan and Marc,Thank's Guy's now I just need to get the time to work on it!!

Mark...

[lower50's]

Cool idea!! The rings look pretty good for $60

[reaper71]

Yeah, they aren't to bad kinda fit's the look of the truck I have seen these go as high as $400.00! for a set that are super nice and the average price is around $145.00 so the $60.00 I paid was a steal as far as I'm concerned.

Marc, as far as the blinker goes I had the same thought maybe something vintage looking for that.

Mark...

[99 to Life]

I could use those buick fenders for my buick Iv seen a couple AD's with those bezels, they usually turn out pretty decent.

[reaper71]

Sorry 99...I know these are hard to come by,if it helps you can have the leftovers after I cut the headlight openings out.

Mark...

[99 to Life]

mark, sure we can talk when you are done with the fenders. I know mine are pretty gone up front and I believe some in the back too.

[reaper71]

You Got it..I'll keep you posted.

Mark...

[CMACDONALD1]

A truck that I see all the time that has the same headlight treatment.

[DeanTX]

I kinda like the '49 Olds headlights too.

[rusty76]

Awesome. I really dig those headlight rings.

[reaper71]

Thank's Guy's..

Dean, Yes I was also looking for those and couldn't track a set down,and almost made my own till I found this set.

Mark...

[DeanTX]

Mark, on the topic of rust or bubbling under the clear coat on bare metal....I used a combination of half Penetrol and half polyurethane. It's goes on very clear. About 20% of my truck is bare metal, 30% rust, & 50% original factory 65 year old paint. It's been 6 months and no sign of any rust or bubbling anywhere. Of course it has been inside the whole time but temps have been as high as 105 and as low as 40.

[reaper71]

Awesome...Thank's for the tip!
I still haven't made up my mind of what I'm going to do when I get back on this thing. I have been kicking around some ideas, but until it's back in the shop they are only thoughts.

What kind of Poly did you use BTW?

Mark...

[DeanTX]

They make various versions in satins and water based. Only use the clear gloss oil based. It is very glossy. Mixed with Penetrol it becomes slow drying. It sets up in a couple of hours but continues hardening for a week. Mixing a pint of each will do one coat. I put on two coats but went over again on certain areas that were less smooth to start with. I wouldn't go over two coats for fear of thicker being more prone to chipping.

[reaper71]

Nice Thank's again!

Mark...

[Advanced Design]

Originally Posted by reaper71

As I stated before this is what your tube will look like inside....The bolt you see is the way you secure the column,this is where the flange nut is used...So when it's all said and done you have a very solid mount for the column (at the bottom) so now when you need to remove it loosen the bolt and slide the column out of tube..
onto the upper mount..

Hey Mark, I went through your build again looking for the lower column mount to share with a friend for his build. Thanks again for the "how to".

In this post, you were showing the column mount as shown below.

Do you happen to have a picture of the brake pedal assembly mounting? I did order the same set up from Speedway and would be real happy to follow your lead for installation. Thanks Mark.

[reaper71]

I went through my pics I have I couldn't find anything.
Will check on Dad's computer.
Are you using a booster with the pedal and master?
I ask this because I'm running manual brakes with 4 wheel disk and the pedal is mounted a bit different than if you use the booster. since the booster has studs on it the new pedal assembly will just bolt to it (hole in firewall for the pushrod )
Figure out the height of the pedal from the floor and mark and drill your holes I know this sounds vague but wel can kick around some ideas if need be.

Mark...

[Advanced Design]

Originally Posted by reaper71

I went through my pics I have I couldn't find anything.
Will check on Dad's computer.
Are you using a booster with the pedal and master?
I ask this because I'm running manual brakes with 4 wheel disk and the pedal is mounted a bit different than if you use the booster. since the booster has studs on it the new pedal assembly will just bolt to it (hole in firewall for the pushrod )
Figure out the height of the pedal from the floor and mark and drill your holes I know this sounds vague but wel can kick around some ideas if need be.

Mark...

Thanks Mark, yes I plan on using a booster. Firewall side will be pretty straightforward. Looking for ideas on how to support or tie in the other end of the pedal mechanism. I want to make sure it is rigid and avoid mistakes....oh yeah I learn from them. Figured I would rather learn what you did.

[reaper71]

Ok, just went and looked at mine in my shop.
step #1. Measure up from floor to bottom of pedal from a (factory unit) or daily driver for reference and and sit in the seat and try out the height for comfort.
#2. if this all checks out, using masking tape on firewall mark all holes and drill the 3/8 holes for either the booster studs or bolts (like mine with No booster) and the large hole for the booster rod or pushrod for master.
#3. slide booster through 3/8 holes and bolt the pedal mount to the studs followed by master.
Or use 4 3/8 button head cap screws through firewall and bolt the pedal mount to these bolts then bolt the master to the firewall.

In total for NO booster you will have 6 3/8 holes 4 for the mount and 2 for the master.
Using booster only 4 3/8 holes for the mount.
Hope this helps!

Mark...

[reaper71]

Just as I posted I saw your reply I made a Plate that was welded to the Top of my mount that goes upto the stock column mount that is bolted to this for removal

[Advanced Design]

Originally Posted by reaper71

Ok, just went and looked at mine in my shop.
step #1. Measure up from floor to bottom of pedal from a (factory unit) or daily driver for reference and and sit in the seat and try out the height for comfort.
#2. if this all checks out, using masking tape on firewall mark all holes and drill the 3/8 holes for either the booster studs or bolts (like mine with No booster) and the large hole for the booster rod or pushrod for master.
#3. slide booster through 3/8 holes and bolt the pedal mount to the studs followed by master.
Or use 4 3/8 button head cap screws through firewall and bolt the pedal mount to these bolts then bolt the master to the firewall.

In total for NO booster you will have 6 3/8 holes 4 for the mount and 2 for the master.
Using booster only 4 3/8 holes for the mount.
Hope this helps!

Mark...

Awesome! thank you, I owe you Mark. Especially going back out on a cold night like tonight. Hope to get to this over Christmas holidays.

And thanks for the description on the tie in with the column bracing. I will go for the same.