1967 Mustang Coupe Build (Electra)

[Kerry P]

Looking good. Enjoy Sunday's heat wave. I thought my hands were going to stick to the hood latch the other day it was so cold (cold for here at least).

[JRANGER]

Got it welded in place. I still need to do some welding on the underside and get the bolt back out. The nut is kinda stuck so i couldnt get it off by hand. Yet again too cold, it was about 30 when i started but was sprinkling so i just wanted to get to it before it started raining.

So now i wait for it to warm up enough to put some rustoleum on it, coat it with seam sealer and so on

[andrewmp6]

If you want bigger brakes with out spending a ton http://www.mustangsteve.com/cobrabrakes.html

[JRANGER]

Originally Posted by andrewmp6

If you want bigger brakes with out spending a ton http://www.mustangsteve.com/cobrabrakes.html

Thanks for the info! I actually have a front disc conversion waiting for installation

[andrewmp6]

I'm a early mustang fan my dad had a 71 sport roof when i was kid,The cobra brakes are made by pbr and the same thing baers cheapest kit is and cheaper if you can used calipers.I know a lot of mustang part sites so if you need any ideas or where to find something let me know.

[JRANGER]

Pulled the bolt out, welded it shut, cleaned up, and painted it. Now it just needs to dry so i can seam seal and add more paint before welding it shut... Well after testing

[JRANGER]

Its that time of the year. Order a front suspension rebuild kit (UCA, LCA, Bushing) and A set of 620 springs with 1" insulator. I plan on doing the awning drop.

Ordered a new Pumpkin as mine is leaky and 2.80. So i got a nice refreshed looking 3.00 open rear for a good price.

Possibly will have a new heater box ordered too for a good price as well.

[JRANGER]

Got to work! Went and bought a spatula and used it to seam seal the passenger side cowl, installed my new heater box but i had to use the old core as the new one had short hose conections and i would of had to pull the hoses in the car. So since everything worked on the old rotted box i installed it with the new fan. Took a few tries as at first nothing worked. Took it apart and re installed it. All works new plenum and all! Now i just need to get new controls as that is all busted up.

Installed a new quarter window actuator only to have the same issues. I think my window channels are jacked. So i ordered new ones.

Trying to get the car where i can start installing the interior and not have to worry about leaks and such....

Ill test the cowl out tomorrow

[screamin_c10]

Its a long painful process, but its worth it in the end. She's looking good!

[67ChevyRedneck]

Finally back on it!

Where did you pick up the pumpkin? I've got the same issue, my 2.80 is leaking pretty bad as well and I think it would be easier to just pick up a new pumpkin. I'd like to keep the 2.8, but with the T5 I think a 3.00 would be good as well.

[JRANGER]

Originally Posted by 67ChevyRedneck

Finally back on it!

Where did you pick up the pumpkin? I've got the same issue, my 2.80 is leaking pretty bad as well and I think it would be easier to just pick up a new pumpkin. I'd like to keep the 2.8, but with the T5 I think a 3.00 would be good as well.

I scored it off Ebay. Guy was asking more and i made a BEST OFFER price. Im motivated to get her back up and driving. I need to get the interior in it as well. Too much clutter in the house

[67ChevyRedneck]

Mind if I ask what you paid? Was it rebuilt, etc? You can PM me if you don't want to mention in here. I only ask because it seems to me the 2.8 and 3.0's are "undesirable" to most mustang people and should be really cheap. I top mine off every few thousand miles. Can't tell how much it's actually losing, but it's made quite the coating on the underside of the car... but its not enough to drip on the floor...

[JRANGER]

Originally Posted by 67ChevyRedneck

Mind if I ask what you paid? Was it rebuilt, etc? You can PM me if you don't want to mention in here. I only ask because it seems to me the 2.8 and 3.0's are "undesirable" to most mustang people and should be really cheap. I top mine off every few thousand miles. Can't tell how much it's actually losing, but it's made quite the coating on the underside of the car... but its not enough to drip on the floor...

I paid $204 shipped from Cali. It wasnt rebuilt, it was removed for a better setup for his t5 and checked out in good condition

[67ChevyRedneck]

That's becoming a real pet peeve of mine. A 2.8 and 3.0 rear work just fine with a stock 289 or 302 (if you do have a lot of cam (most people don't), you probably do need a 3.23+ to stay in a good rpm band) and a T5.

If you use a V6 T5 a 2.8 is just fine as they have a 0.73 OD ratio and the V6 mustangs had similar HP, tire size, and a 2.73 rear end stock. This is what I used. The V8 T5s have a 0.68 OD and I think a 2.8 would probably lug a bit, or not be able to use OD until 50+, but a 3.00 should be just fine.

Drives me nuts that people on VMF swap out their manual or C4 with a 2.8 or 3.0 for a T5 for "fuel mileage and to lower RPM" but then swap out their 2.8 or 3.0 rear for a 3.23 or 3.55. They're basically back to where they started. I see post after post after post where people recommend you need a 3.55 or 3.73 with a T5 and it drives me nuts. If I swapped my 2.8 for a 3.73 I'd be at the same highway RPMs than I was with my C4 and 2.8. I completely understand if people want more "power" and slightly lower RPM, but to say you want fuel mileage and lower rpms, they add a 32% OD ratio, but then negate a big chunk of it with a 15% or 21% gear increase.

This guy may have been one of the high HP cam guys, but I see it sometimes 3 or 4 times a day on VMF.

[JRANGER]

I think its more for those guys that want to be able to gun it but when not doing so still get decent MPG. Id love to have a T5 over my 3 speed but if i had a choice id probably switch to AOD. Im a lazy driver..lol

[JRANGER]

Well i dont know how it happened but some how all of sudden with the new actuator and such the rear driver quarter moves up and down properly. The wheels dont pop off or anything. I havent touched it since greasing it up and playing with it over the weekend so its weird. After that worked out i adjusted it forward on the top and pull the bottom in to push the top out. BOOM!! The door and quarter seal. Problem solved!!! Tested the cowl again, still leaking....The end where i cant really reach is being an issue and the spatula didnt do the trick after 2 tried. I pushed my and in and gave it another try. Full of seam sealer so maybe tomorrow i will have a successful water test! BLAH!!!

Eitherway it is some progress and im just a couple steps away from being confident i can install interior without moisture issues

[67ChevyRedneck]

I have yet to ever have anything just "work" the next day!

Sucks about the cowl. You'll get it.

How are you testing the water? Is it possible the windshield seal is leaking?

[JRANGER]

Im just pouring water in the cowl. its leaking in the back seam of the patch. Ill figure out something. Just got it right the first time on the other side. Just hard to get my hand in there

[JRANGER]

Well i figured it out, It wasnt the seam...It was the hole i welded shut from putting a bolt in to get it tightly fitting. Some how i missed that spot with seam sealer. So on my 3rd attemptfinally success!!! The cowl is sealed up and no more leaking. I just have to paint it, weld it back shut and then on to the next task

[67ChevyRedneck]

'Bout time!

I pulled the trans, bell, and oil pan off mine... ordered parts... waiting on parts truck. Fingers crossed no more vibration.

[JRANGER]

Got back to work, cowl is welded shut, painted, sealed, and ready for the last of paint. I also finally installed my headliner. So what really has me interested is the rear might be POSI in this sucker. I rolled it back and hit the gas a little hard and it left 2 tire marks. I was pretty sure it was an Open rear and the tag says it is....Soooo the tag might be wrong and im curious as hell

[67ChevyRedneck]

Careful, you'll piss off the "Ford people"... it's a Trac-Loc!

The rear on my car leaks pretty bad. There's a guy on ebay that had great reviews on VMF that sells them for $850. I've been thinking about getting one, but I guess they didn't make a trac-loc in a 2.8 rear, so I'd have to bump up to a 3.00 rear.

I imagine that's about the same cost if I brought my car into a shop to have mine cleaned up and redone, so I might as well get a trac-loc right? If anything ever happens to my 289 I'm putting a roller 302 in it, but hopefully it will last me a loooooong time!

Congrats on getting the headliner done, they're a PIA.

[JRANGER]

Originally Posted by 67ChevyRedneck

Careful, you'll piss off the "Ford people"... it's a Trac-Loc!

The rear on my car leaks pretty bad. There's a guy on ebay that had great reviews on VMF that sells them for $850. I've been thinking about getting one, but I guess they didn't make a trac-loc in a 2.8 rear, so I'd have to bump up to a 3.00 rear.

I imagine that's about the same cost if I brought my car into a shop to have mine cleaned up and redone, so I might as well get a trac-loc right? If anything ever happens to my 289 I'm putting a roller 302 in it, but hopefully it will last me a loooooong time!

Congrats on getting the headliner done, they're a PIA.

Well its a one piece unisuede TMI headliner so it wasnt too bad. I got the double backed carpet in, painted the old vinyl seats i got black, installed them, put the scratched up side panels in, both seat belts are bolted in, and installed the 09 Mustang seats. I need to trim the carpet some more for the door sills but the interior is looking good

[flashed]

Those seats look perfect in there .

[JRANGER]

Well with the day off from training due to a cleanse (Dont ask) i decided in my weak state id work on the mustang. Took the top half apart and found some of the problems.

1: The spring wasn't turned properly and seated in the rocker
2: The rocker was shot and i couldn't get it to budge by hand
3: It certainly had I6 Springs
4: Insulator pads were half there and falling apart

So once apart and i did the arning drop. It was a pain and used all of my 18V dewalt battery to complete

Once Apart i checked the fit of the upper control and it was a little tight. I couldn't get the bolts to go all the way in but it did eventually go in.. Just took wiggling.

I had a mini grease gun and of course it didn't work for ****. Ended up going and getting a regular grease gun and found out exactly what you guys meant by needing right angle zerks. So all of that installed and greased together.

I installed roller rockers and Grab a track 620 springs with supposedly a 1" insulator...Looks pretty tiny only being about 1/4" thick on the top.

Either way....It took about 6 hours since ive never done any of it but the whole upper has been install on the passenger side. I have to do the lower and replace the rest of the bushing still but then on to the other side