Attempting my first build 72 K5

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

So I've finally decided to get my 72 K5 Blazer back on the road. My plan for this build is to keep it mostly original. The current paint is the original dark olive that will be stripped to bare medal and painted the same color again.


Here is some pics. I started the tear down this past weekend.

Update 11/5/14 - Decided to go all out and do full frame off restoration. Enjoy!

[mcmlxix]

looks like a great starting point... classic tube and inline tube offer replacement lines in stainless. Check with the board vendors first. Classic Hearbeat.. GMC Pauls...

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Thanks, mcmlxix. I'll check with them.

If anybody is interested in the winch, let me know. I don't plan on re-installing it. The cable will need to be replaced, though.

[Ol Blue K20]

Nice looking rig, sidewinder winch....love it

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Update here..

Over the weekend I pulled the motor, tranny, xfer case out. There was years of caked on oil on the xfer case and transmission. I'm going to use my gas powered power washer and hook it up to the hot water line, but it only gets up to 140 degrees. It's better than just using cold water from the outside hose..

Today I'm taking the tranny and xfer case to the shop to have them go through and rebuild them. The xfer case might not need and work.. There was no play on either yokes.. Usually those things have a lot of play if they are old and worn out. If it doesn't need a full rebuild, I should be able to save some money.

The guy Im using is going to rebuild the transmission for $495 and it includes a new torque converter. What stall converter should I use or what are most guys running? (the truck is not lifting and I think the stock gearing is 3.07) The motor is going to have about 340HP, 375 LB TQ and the meat of the power will be in that 1800-5000 RPM range.

The radiator needs replacing, too. The inside is rusted and the water coming out of it was filth.. The water coming out of the engine almost looked like oil, that's how bad it was.

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

The engine I ordered is coming with an electric fuel pump.. My question is.. I plan on ordering the orginal pre bent fuel lines from GMC pauls, but since it's an electric fuel pump, I have a feeling the original fuel lines wont line up because from what I understand the electric fuel pump has to be in a different location.

Can anyone confirm this for me? If the original pre-bent ones don't work. what are my options to run SS fuel lines?

[jaros44sr]

Originally Posted by 72K5CSTDarkOlive

The engine I ordered is coming with an electric fuel pump.. My question is.. I plan on ordering the orginal pre bent fuel lines from GMC pauls, but since it's an electric fuel pump, I have a feeling the original fuel lines wont line up because from what I understand the electric fuel pump has to be in a different location.

Can anyone confirm this for me? If the original pre-bent ones don't work. what are my options to run SS fuel lines?

I dont know much about elect. pump mounts, but, cant you cut out a section of the fuel line and mount it on the frame rails. Would be cool to use AN fittings if that is what is on your pump, than you could flare fuel lines and use barrel sleeves and nuts.

Nut and sleeve go on first in the proper orientation, then flare....dont ask how i know

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

this is the pump that I'll be using- http://www.summitracing.com/parts/crt-p60430

Not sure how good it is, but the guys who are building the motor insisted that I use an electric fuel pump and this the one they are going to provide me.

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Since it's a new motor I feel more comfortable running all new lines.. The gas tank has a bunch of sediment and is really old. You should of seen the crap the came out of the water pump when I had the motor on the engine stand. I spun the motor and the fluid that poured out literally looked like oil, but it was the radiator fluid... After I saw that, I'm going with all new lines, hoses, etc..

I think what I'll do is just make my own. I have a tube bending tool and my brother has done them before so I think I'll just go that route.

[sockalaminski]

Originally Posted by 72K5CSTDarkOlive

this is the pump that I'll be using- http://www.summitracing.com/parts/crt-p60430

Not sure how good it is, but the guys who are building the motor insisted that I use an electric fuel pump and this the one they are going to provide me.

That pump is for a 5/16" line for a 4 cylinder diesel, 3/8 would be the size you need.

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Spent the day pulling out the front axle, brake lines, fuel lines and leaf springs. I ran into trouble with one of the bolts on the springs. I was able to get the nut off, but the bolt refuses to slide through. The other side slid out, no problem.

Any ideas how I can get this bolt out? Anybody else run into this problem. see pic below.

[notsolo]

Nice Blazer! you are making great progress. IMO the springs are still good, replace bushings and check for broken leave/s. Frozen bolt soak with PB blaster or heated up with a torch, you may be able to use a propane torch to loosen it up and pound it out with a hammer.

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Originally Posted by notsolo

Nice Blazer! you are making great progress. IMO the springs are still good, replace bushings and check for broken leave/s. Frozen bolt soak with PB blaster or heated up with a torch, you may be able to use a propane torch to loosen it up and pound it out with a hammer.

Thanks! I took a grinder to this morning. I've decided to use the same leaf springs and replace the bushings.

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

@sockalaminski - Thanks for pointing that out.. I'll have to check with the guys at West Coast Engines about that.

[sockalaminski]

Air chisel with a punch on it will help as well. Or it you have a cutting torch, just cut it off. They can be really stubborn sometimes.

[dutchmanz]

Just my opinion but a good mechanical fuel pump would make your install a lot easier, look original and allow the use of the prebent SS lines. For your application, there is no benefit to run electric unless the block doesn't have provisions for it. I like the safety of the mech pump. It cuts off when the engine does.

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Originally Posted by dutchmanz

Just my opinion but a good mechanical fuel pump would make your install a lot easier, look original and allow the use of the prebent SS lines. For your application, there is no benefit to run electric unless the block doesn't have provisions for it. I like the safety of the mech pump. It cuts off when the engine does.

I'm with you on that one.. The electric just complicates things and you are right about it looking more original with a mechanical fuel pump. Any recommendations on a good one?

[dutchmanz]

Originally Posted by 72K5CSTDarkOlive

I'm with you on that one.. The electric just complicates things and you are right about it looking more original with a mechanical fuel pump. Any recommendations on a good one?

I have used the Carter street pumps with great success. I had one on a 600+ hp big block and never needed more. Everybody always wanted the chrome Holley race pumps but the never seemed to fit really well with the fuel lines.

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

I used this grinder to cut the bolt off from both ends. Took a few minutes but it did the job.

I spent the next 5 hours underneath the truck with a high pressure steamer, degreaser, and lots of elbow grease to get all the crap that's been sitting on the underside of the bed and insine/outside of the frame rails.. Actually cleaned up real good.

If I had it my way, I would just take the body off the frame, but I have no place for it.

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

ops. posted the after pics first..

[sockalaminski]

Originally Posted by 72K5CSTDarkOlive

I used this grinder to cut the bolt off from both ends. Took a few minutes but it did the job.

I spent the next 5 hours underneath the truck with a high pressure steamer, degreaser, and lots of elbow grease to get all the crap that's been sitting on the underside of the bed and insine/outside of the frame rails.. Actually cleaned up real good.

If I had it my way, I would just take the body off the frame, but I have no place for it.

That's clean enough to eat off of. Did you have the factory asphalt undercoat on there?

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Originally Posted by sockalaminski

That's clean enough to eat off of. Did you have the factory asphalt undercoat on there?

I'm not quite sure. When I was under there, I thought it was all oil and grease build up, but after scraping some of it off, it definitely looked to be like some kind of coating possibly.. Then, I got worried that maybe I should leave it on there, but in order for me to really clean off the all oil/grease I needed to get it all off.

Stage 2 of my build will be next year and that's when I will take the body off the frame and have it painted, probably get the underside coated to protect it.

[dutchmanz]

I'm so jealous of the underside of your Blazer. If I did that to mine I would probably see the inside. One day maybe....

[sockalaminski]

If you're not going to paint or undercoat until next year, You should epoxy or etch prime and seal that underside. The raw steel will have a nice layer of surface rust on it otherwise.

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Originally Posted by sockalaminski

If you're not going to paint or undercoat until next year, You should epoxy or etch prime and seal that underside. The raw steel will have a nice layer of surface rust on it otherwise.

That's a good idea. So I have a question... Has anyone ever used a Air Needle Scaler?

I'm going to be painting my axles using Master Series AG111. I want to get it to bare metal, but I don't have the option of using a sand blaster.