Project Goldilocks, '66 C10 SWB BBW Build

[theastronaut]

Picked up a pair of CPP modular spindles from Boris (way2low) at Street Machinery. I can't find upper A-arm shafts that are dropped 1/2"; need those so I can start mocking up the A arms. Might have to have some made, or drop the mounting point itself. Gotta get ball joints too.




Also picked up a pair of NOS inside door handles. Repops won't stay on the stem.

[amueller454]

man this is such a cool build!

[MalibuKasey]

So where are we at with this story? Ill got get some popcorn.... ready for an update.

[theastronaut]

Originally Posted by amueller454

man this is such a cool build!

Thanks!!

Originally Posted by MalibuKasey

So where are we at with this story? Ill got get some popcorn.... ready for an update.

Well, you won't believe it but I scored a super rare part... been looking for a long time and there was one heck of a bidding war on eBay to get it... then the freight to get it here, and finding somewhere to store it...

It's new in the wrapper still, never opened. Will REALLY set the truck apart once it's noticed.

And it's a full set of FIVE. Not just four. ALL FIVE!!!




Seriously though, I've sent an email to Hotchkis asking if they sell offset upper A-arm shafts. Haven't been able to find them anywhere else that will bolt straight to the factory crossmember. They come with their upper A-arms; hopefully they'll sell them separately. They'll help with camber gain, along with taller upper ball joints. That's about it.

[theastronaut]

Email from Hotchkis... no luck on the shafts. Looks like I'll be making my own.

[jhrusk]

have you called porterbuilt? They seem to be willing to buils specific items. Might be worth a call.

[theastronaut]

Originally Posted by jhrusk

have you called porterbuilt? They seem to be willing to buils specific items. Might be worth a call.

Haven't checked with PB. I do have a local machine/fab shop that would be up to the task, just picked up a pair of widened wheels from him yesterday.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by theastronaut

Email from Hotchkis... no luck on the shafts. Looks like I'll be making my own.

I thought Moog offered 'offset' shafts in their 'Problem Solver' line of parts?

[theastronaut]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

I thought Moog offered 'offset' shafts in their 'Problem Solver' line of parts?

Yes, but offset inward/outward depending on how you install them. I'm looking for .5" dropped pivot points.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by theastronaut

Yes, but offset inward/outward depending on how you install them. I'm looking for .5" dropped pivot points.

Ahh.... Gulstand mod vs for camber adjustment.

[theastronaut]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Ahh.... Gulstand mod vs for camber adjustment.

Yep! I think that those, along with taller C20 ball joints will get me in about the same range of camber gain as the available aftermarket IFS kits.

[MalibuKasey]

Clever thinking!

[theastronaut]

Started planning the lower A-arm's layout on the shop floor. Need to figure out my ride height and tire size next so I can figure out how deep the air bag mount needs to be for it to be in it's proper range, and then I can figure out ball joint cup angles. The bag mount will actually be about 1/2" or 3/4" below normal so I can eventually use 1/8" aluminum plate spacers under the bag to fine tune the bag height/pressure at ride height. I'm probably going to swap to smaller bags since the D2600's are pretty tall at their minimum ride height (6"). I'd like for the rockers to be about 5" off the ground at ride height, and it'll be pushing it to get the D2600's to ride that low without collapsing them too much.

Also figured out how much the upper and lower ball joint needs to be moved forward to center the wheel in the fender opening, with 4 degrees more castor than stock (ending up around 7*). I wanted to push the wheel forward an inch, so the bottom ball joint has to go forward 1 3/8 and the top ball joint only moves forward 5/8". I'm pulling the ball joints inward 1" for more fender clearance with wider wheels; planning on running 18x10" or 20x10" up front with atleast 275 tread width. Shortening the arms 1" will also help with camber gain a little.


On to the CAD drawings... (Concrete And Dirt).

[pdxhall]

You'd better hope the floor doesn't move.

[theastronaut]

Originally Posted by pdxhall

You'd better hope the floor doesn't move.

I got it taped in place!

[duallyjams]

Looks like the x are wining in tic tac toe

[chevyrestoguy]

Very cool!
With all of the improvements and the dimensional changes you have in mind, those are going to be a trick set of control arms. Do you plan to modify an existing lower control arm, or do you plan to build a custom one? I'm thinking that you'll build a new design, probably out of steel plate. That's what I would do.

I have a buddy who builds ultra trick ($$) high end off road race vehicles, and he builds all of his own control arms and beams. Absolute works of art. I was over at his shop a while back and snapped a picture of some stuff he had just finished welding. "Just a couple of simple brackets and and some limiter strap tabs", he said.


I love fab work, and I'm really excited to see what you're going to come up with.

[theastronaut]

Originally Posted by chevyrestoguy

Very cool!
With all of the improvements and the dimensional changes you have in mind, those are going to be a trick set of control arms. Do you plan to modify an existing lower control arm, or do you plan to build a custom one? I'm thinking that you'll build a new design, probably out of steel plate. That's what I would do.

I have a buddy who builds ultra trick ($$) high end off road race vehicles, and he builds all of his own control arms and beams. Absolute works of art. I was over at his shop a while back and snapped a picture of some stuff he had just finished welding. "Just a couple of simple brackets and and some limiter strap tabs", he said.


I love fab work, and I'm really excited to see what you're going to come up with.

Man those are nice!! Send him over when he has some free time I'm going to use tubing, probably 1 5/16" lower and 1 1/4" for the uppers. The bag mount will be plate, and I'll make a tubular X brace in the center to stiffen the arms. I bought 6' of 3/8" rod to mock up the shape of the arms first so I'll have a template for bending the tubing. Plate would work for the arms but I think tubing will be lighter; plate would have to be pretty thick (heavy) and I don't have a way to cut anything that thick.

[mcbassin]

On to the CAD drawings... (Concrete And Dirt).

Just another reason I love your threads, always innovative ideas. Hey, if it works I'm all for it.

I have a buddy who builds ultra trick ($$) high end off road race vehicles, and he builds all of his own control arms and beams. Absolute works of art. I was over at his shop a while back and snapped a picture of some stuff he had just finished welding. "Just a couple of simple brackets and and some limiter strap tabs", he said.

Sorry to hijack, but dang that is some sweet tig welding. I sure would like to know what your friend's secret is to getting such clean welds on steel? Any more details about his shop?

[chevyrestoguy]

Mike's a pretty young guy (27 yrs old), but he's been welding since he was a teenager. Back when the Harley chopper scene was blowing up 10 years ago, he was getting his TIG training welding frames for Daytec, who also made frames for Atlas, Big Dog, and others. He always did mini trucks on the side, but moved on to hot rods and off-road stuff because he could show off his fabrication skills. As far as his secret, it's pretty basic. Use fresh, new clean metal whenever you can. I'm not sure what rods he likes to use, but he welds with a Miller Syncrowave, using a Miller torch head (water cooled, of course). I've been around lots of guys who Tig, and I like to watch their techniques. Some guys will light the arc and maintain a consistent foot pressure. Mike is constantly on and off the pedal, hitting it on every bead, like you do when you Tig weld aluminum. He gets in a good rhythm, and it shows in his bead spacing.

He's been doing a lot of double weave Tig'ing lately, I should get some pictures. Unreal.

here's his Facebook:
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Exile...64332900248369

[theastronaut]

CPP hubs came in today. Just need rotors so I can make caliper brackets.

[Bomp]

Feel some excellent fabrication in the making.

[theastronaut]

Originally Posted by Bomp

Feel some excellent fabrication in the making.

I wish, might be awhile before I get back on the A-arms.

[groundbound64]

Subscribed

[theastronaut]

Ordered Cyro treated and slotted Stoptech's from Tire Rack but there's a 3-4 week wait before they'll be in stock. I like the look of slotted and drilled but drilled rotors will crack if they're used hard so that wouldn't work. OEM Caddy rotors were the same price but they have to be replaced every pad change, wasn't too thrilled about that. Stoptech has matching rear rotors available, and they should be more durable than oem parts. Also have to get the hubs fitted with 1/2" wheel studs and probably open up the rotors to fit the bigger studs too. Nothing on the front brakes are going to be out of the box parts at this point.

I hate that I'm not making any progress with the A-arms but I have been researching master cylinder bore sizes vs caliper piston area, pedal ratio, and pedal pressure vs pedal travel. I don't want a soft pedal; I can't stand getting in newer cars that stop with pedal travel instead of pedal pressure. Theres no pedal feel or feedback that way. I'll need to heel-toe downshift so a floppy/soft pedal won't let me keep steady pressure on the brakes while tipping the gas pedal with the same foot. Lots to consider to get it balanced front to back with a firm pedal but enough leverage with the bore size and pedal ratio to fully lock up the brakes without needing body-builder legs. I'm thinking that a good place to start is to measure how much pedal effort (in pounds) I'm comfortable with and see how much line pressure the calipers need to function properly. Been looking into Wilwood hanging pedal assemblies with triple master cylinders and an adjustable brake bias bar to tune the front/rear balance. Might be a tight fit to get it all under the dash.