Danny Boy is BAACK! w/ '55 Big Window

[JR25]

[quote=Dan in Pasadena;6100823]

Originally Posted by JR25

It has been ONE month since I posted below.....

I think it is great that you get to drive your truck while working on it! I dont think Im ever gonna get the cab back on mine, with 3 young boys (4,6,8) it is nice having the "helpers", but then there is ball games, throwing the ball in the yard, helping them with whatever they think is cool at the time, and oh yeah did I mention I have a wife too!!

I THINK I am finally done with the frame/chassis. QUOTE]

So let's SEE IT!!!

OK...... I still haven't got a pic to show up on my profile, but..... the start of my own thread!!!!!!
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...24#post6103824

got the pic to show!!!!!

[Dan in Pasadena]

Oh great, ANOTHER completed, beautiful truck to compare my old Betsy against! Lol.
Posted via Mobile Device

[dubie]

I bought the pre-flared lines with fittings on them and used the cheapest generic hand bender there is. I borrowed a double flaring tool off a friend and we had all the lines bent and installed in less than 2 hours. It's a pretty simple job for any skill level of builder.

It is indeed a slippery slope bud. One little job leads to another and another and so on

[Russell Ashley]

Dan, I got my flaring tool at NAPA for about $60. Get the pre-flared lines at NAPA that are a copper/steel and you can make most of the bends without a bending tool, although they also have basic bending tools that don't cost much.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Thanks guys.

Ok, I picked up the kit at lunch. All new, looks good. I'm happy...so far.

I'd already planned to use those steel/copper lines and PROBABLY a bender I saw on Eastwoods that look kinda like pliers. IF i can get away using all pre-flared lines i certainly will. if not, I know to make templates.

I DONT know what clamps to buy to mount the lines on the frame. They don't have to be chrome plated, just neat & nice. BTW, why do some guys put those curly-ques at the MC?

To avoid some cost in the short term I'm considering installing the front disc kit w/o going to the expense of the dropped axle and SuperSliders right now. We'll see how it plays out.
Posted via Mobile Device

[Kim57]

Nice score on the parts.
You should be able to find some rubber clamps that go all the way around your lines.

The 4th one down should work.
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/cab...ecatalog/N-c2m

By curly "Qs" if your talking about the coils that look like the belong on a still it's for vibration dampening.
Kim

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by Kim57

Nice score on the parts.
You should be able to find some rubber clamps that go all the way around your lines.

The 4th one down should work.
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/cab...ecatalog/N-c2m

By curly "Qs" if your talking about the coils that look like the belong on a still it's for vibration dampening.
Kim

Thanks for the link. I THINK I've seen those at Home Cheapo.

Yeah, coils....I couldn't think of the word when I typed that.

So some guys use those and some don't. Are they really necessary cause I don't know how I'd manage to make those without collapsing the line(?)

[Kim57]

IMHO the coils are needed if you have the brake assembly mounted to the fire wall and then the lines go to the frame.There is always going to be some movement between the two and the coils will help keep the lines from cracking.
If the brake assembly and lines are both mounted to the frame then I don't think the coils are needed. I didn't put them in mine and don't have concern over it at all.
Kim

[mknittle]

Originally Posted by Kim57

IMHO the coils are needed if you have the brake assembly mounted to the fire wall and then the lines go to the frame.There is always going to be some movement between the two and the coils will help keep the lines from cracking.
If the brake assembly and lines are both mounted to the frame then I don't think the coils are needed. I didn't put them in mine and don't have concern over it at all.
Kim

I agree, There will only be a minor amount of twisting on the lines. If they are clamped snug {not too tight} the movement will be spread over a wider area.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Here's what I'm tentatively planning to buy for tubing bending.

http://www.eastwood.com/review/produ...stomer-reviews

Gonna hold off on the flaring kit til I get under the truck and roughly measure what length lines I'll need, then head over to Pep Boys or NAPA to see what they have pre-made. I'm assuming 3/16" tubing for all the lines, is that correct? Any tips for a newbie on this?

[Kim57]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

Here's what I'm tentatively planning to buy for tubing bending.

http://www.eastwood.com/review/produ...stomer-reviews

Gonna hold off on the flaring kit til I get under the truck and roughly measure what length lines I'll need, then head over to Pep Boys or NAPA to see what they have pre-made. I'm assuming 3/16" tubing for all the lines, is that correct? Any tips for a newbie on this?

That looks like a nice bender.
I used 3/16" on all my lines.
Kim

[Dan in Pasadena]

Ok, good thinking Kim. This'll be under the frame.

I'm also wondering if I should spring for the remote reservoir conversion: cap, lines, plastic reservoir? I really think once I get the lines all bled, adding fluid should be easy enough with a squeeze bottle and a small mirror, OR I could drill another factory-sized hole and 2nd rubber plug.

[TX58]

Nice truck, I think the price is what people are paying these days. I paid $4k plus ( can't remember the change) for my big window 58 with original 283. I've done a lot of work to it and still not finished. I'm looking forward to taking that first drive when it's finished. I think whatever we pay for our trucks is worth it, if it makes us happy.
Enjoy your truck
Posted via Mobile Device

[Dan in Pasadena]

Thanks Kim. I think I'm gonna pull the trigger on those tools.

Thanks Tx, you must have read through the thread from the beginning. There was some discussion early on of whether I paid too much for my truck. I didn't think so then and I REALLY don't think so now 1-1/2 years later. If anything, I got a deal. At least for Southern California. And I agree with you: If they make us happy and we can afford them, whatever we pay is fine.

[mknittle]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

Thanks Kim. I think I'm gonna pull the trigger on those tools.

Thanks Tx, you must have read through the thread from the beginning. There was some discussion early on of whether I paid too much for my truck. I didn't think so then and I REALLY don't think so now 1-1/2 years later. If anything, I got a deal. At least for Southern California. And I agree with you: If they make us happy and we can afford them, whatever we pay is fine.

I have one similar to the one on the right. It works good but is a bit clumsy

[dubie]

i used 3/16" on all my lines except the one that goes to the rear brakes, that was 1/4". The only reason for that is because of the fitting size coming out of the proportioning valve. Then I sized the line back down to 3/16 from each side of the axle

[Dan in Pasadena]

It's clumsy?....or the operator? Lol.
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[Russell Ashley]

Dan, How are you coming along on patching the speaker holes? When I replaced the bottoms of my doors I didn't think I would be able to get them perfect so I masked off a section of the inside lower portion of my doors and sprayed them with paintable undercoating. I like the way it looks, and it will help hide some less-than-perfect body work. It might even give some noise reduction also. You don't notice it unless you are close.

[TX58]

Originally Posted by Russell Ashley

Dan, How are you coming along on patching the speaker holes? When I replaced the bottoms of my doors I didn't think I would be able to get them perfect so I masked off a section of the inside lower portion of my doors and sprayed them with paintable undercoating. I like the way it looks, and it will help hide some less-than-perfect body work. It might even give some noise reduction also. You don't notice it unless you are close.

Now I like that idea. I have a few minor dings on the lower sections of my doors,wish I would have seen this sooner. It's great that we now have products and techniques that we didn't have back then. Nice truck
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[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by Russell Ashley

Dan, How are you coming along on patching the speaker holes? When I replaced the bottoms of my doors I didn't think I would be able to get them perfect so I masked off a section of the inside lower portion of my doors and sprayed them with paintable undercoating...

I tried this the other day on one door and the results for me were kinda....meh... I need a little more uniform texture. I am thinking of sanding/scraping it off and possibly trying a little roll on bed texture stuff. Not sure if I'll like that or not.

In hindsight my welding is the culprit. I'm getting a little real world lesson on the importance of fit-up - DOH!

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by Russell Ashley

Dan, How are you coming along on patching the speaker holes? When I replaced the bottoms of my doors I didn't think I would be able to get them perfect so I masked off a section of the inside lower portion of my doors and sprayed them with paintable undercoating...

UPDATE: Today I FINALLY had my old sandblasted, severe wiper-scratched windshield replaced. Used a little shop up in Sun Valley. And of course because it was HOT!!!! in SoCal today I ran out of gas on the freeway offramp. Sweated my butt off waiting for AAA, but they saved my foolish butt.

WOW, what a difference the windshield makes! It fits perfectly in 3 of 4 corners (DOH!). The driver's side upper inside corner rubber just would not lay flat. They worked on it almost three hours. They even removed the windshield twice and reinstalled it. Outside the rubber lays down perfectly flat all around. Inside too except that one corner. Tried using a heat gun too. It didn't make a difference, stayed puckered up. It was that way with the old rubber too though. I THINK its probably the rubber. I'm going back in a couple weeks to have my big back window R&R'ed with Steele Rubber. If it comes out good I'll order Steele for the front too.

iPhone is giving me trouble mailing photos so I can't show you anything right now, sorry.

[fabguy]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

UPDATE: Today I FINALLY had my old sandblasted, severe wiper-scratched windshield replaced. Used a little shop up in Sun Valley. And of course because it was HOT!!!! in SoCal today I ran out of gas on the freeway offramp. Sweated my butt off waiting for AAA, but they saved my foolish butt.

WOW, what a difference the windshield makes! It fits perfectly in 3 of 4 corners (DOH!). The driver's side upper inside corner rubber just would not lay flat. They worked on it almost three hours. They even removed the windshield twice and reinstalled it. Outside the rubber lays down perfectly flat all around. Inside too except that one corner. Tried using a heat gun too. It didn't make a difference, stayed puckered up. It was that way with the old rubber too though. I THINK its probably the rubber. I'm going back in a couple weeks to have my big back window R&R'ed with Steele Rubber. If it comes out good I'll order Steele for the front too.

iPhone is giving me trouble mailing photos so I can't show you anything right now, sorry.

Congrats Dan, feels good too see where your really going, I was so used to druving the suburban that has the same windshield and when my new one was installed on my truck it was amazing. Even though I haven't driven it yet.
Posted via Mobile Device

[Dan in Pasadena]

Hey, that's a good idea! I'm reading your post on my iPhone and didn't notice the texture at all until I zoomed in.

My repair is stopped. Took a long weekend camping vacation, some prep & mechanical work before and cleanup/repair after. I MAY get back to it this weekend though. Thanks for thinking of me. I DO like the idea. What brand did you use? Just rattle can stuff?
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[Dan in Pasadena]

Russ,
Did you put the material on the upper part of your armrest? I ask because I'd like to get some and they don't come in colors I want to use so I'm wondering if they un-screw and are easy to change? Oh, and is the top coat rattle can too, or real automotive paint?

[Russell Ashley]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

Russ,
Did you put the material on the upper part of your armrest? I ask because I'd like to get some and they don't come in colors I want to use so I'm wondering if they un-screw and are easy to change? Oh, and is the top coat rattle can too, or real automotive paint?

The arm rests don't exactly match my door but I didn't do anything to them. They are exactly like I received them from Bow Tie Bits. I'm pretty sure that you can remove the top but I didn't look too closely so don't know for sure. The undercoating that I used on my door came from O'Reilys. I don't remember the brand, just be sure it says Paintable on the can. I let it set up for a week before I painted it. I got the idea from thinking about my last truck which had carpet on the lower section of the door.

The top coat is "real" paint, urethane enamel, had it matched at the auto paint store to match the rest of my interior.