S10 Swap how to

[KRFitz]

Hi Guys, new to the thread, 1st post. I'm considering doing an S10 swap on my '51 5 window. Is it possible to use the 4.3L as it sits without moving the motor position? Looking for the simplest way to approach this project. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by KRFitz

Hi Guys, new to the thread, 1st post. I'm considering doing an S10 swap on my '51 5 window. Is it possible to use the 4.3L as it sits without moving the motor position? Looking for the simplest way to approach this project. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.

no, its not. the fan would be through the core support.

you can buy V8 S10 swap mounts and flip them side to side so it moves the mounts back 5 inches, but for a 4.3 moving it back 8 inches is a lot better.

[KRFitz]

Does the motor mounting position come down to what a guy plans on doing with the fan? I have seen electric push fans used on the front side of the rad. Does this allow enough room to use the flipped V8 mount option, or do you still suggest the full 8" move.

[gigamanx]

Originally Posted by KRFitz

Does the motor mounting position come down to what a guy plans on doing with the fan? I have seen electric push fans used on the front side of the rad. Does this allow enough room to use the flipped V8 mount option, or do you still suggest the full 8" move.

It doesn't matter too much what is done with the fan. I tried to get away with not moving the motor at all. You need every bit of space you can get. My radiator didn't fit at all with the core support mounted and the radiator in place. It hits the lower engine block pulley.

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by KRFitz

Does the motor mounting position come down to what a guy plans on doing with the fan? I have seen electric push fans used on the front side of the rad. Does this allow enough room to use the flipped V8 mount option, or do you still suggest the full 8" move.

I moved my first one 5.5 inches and there was no room for the clutch fan but I was able to offset an electric fan to fit as a puller. I moved my second one 8.5 inches and the clutch fan barely fit.

both of those were 4.3. which is a good point to bring up. the engine mounts are in different places on the block on 4.3 vs V8s. the V8 mount is very forward, the 4.3 is more to the middle of the block so flipping S10 V8 mounts moves a V8 rearward more (its like an 8 inch total move on a V8) than a 4.3.

I guess what I am saying is, if the mounts were in the same place on V8s and 4.3, using the swap mounts would move it enough, but if they were in the same place on V8s and 4.3, swap mounts wouldnt exist!

[skymangs]

I would still recommend that the engine goes 8 inches farther back. You cannot get away with leaving the 4.3 in the same spot as it was in the S 10.

[skymangs]

I like to use first generation S 10/ S 15 as a donor the reason is only that the brake pedal Assembly is usable. The Second generation is doable, but you'll need to source a brake pedal Assembly from like a G body. You Will also look for one with a 4.3/ 700R4, as the 2.8 transmission doesn't fit a SBC.

[joedoh]

I like using the second gen trucks, they have the vortec CFI 4.3 and 4L60e trans, bussed electrical systems, there are a lot of positives. but like skymangs says there can be an issue with the brake pedal, most second gen trucks (98+) have a big aluminum pedal box. also, if you want to keep the electronics you need to keep the steering column and it also attaches to this big pedal box. I have done two AD with 98+ s10 4.3 donors, and made an interface bracket that keeps the aluminum pedal box and steering column mount.

I am doing a 95 4.3 right now and while it doesnt have the aluminum pedal assembly I am going to design a bolt in bracket to hold the pedals and column. its not in an AD, its a 41, but I will document the design.

[47owner]

I have looking into the S10 frame change. I have a 3600 1947. Its a California truck, frame in good shape. I was thinking of using a 4WD Blazer for the drive train and the engine and trans. Is that doable, also any suggestions on what to do on the front suspension and axle. I don't have a bunch of extra cash, I just want to make it a daily driver.

[joedoh]

I havent done it, so I am not an expert, but I think the problem with using a 4x4 is that when you move the motor back the transfer case is right in the middle of the torsion bar attachments.

I know there is a guy who used a 4x4 frame but got rid of the front drive, and therefore the transfer case, that was his solution.

[8man]

I've read about using muriatic acid on the S10 frame, but this frame has so much surface rust, I'm wondering how you would treat it

IMG_1735 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

Thanks,
Robert

[47owner]

My thinking was to keep the frame off the 1947 and adapt the rear suspension, motor and trans. no transfer case, of course I would need a new drive shaft. The other issue is what to do with front suspension.

[OutlawDrifter]

Sandblast or wire brush/cup.

[joedoh]

muratic acid is mostly to remove the wax the manufacturer put on the s10 frames, if its that rusty there probably isnt a lot of wax left.

I have had good luck with the braided wire cup on a grinder

[gigamanx]

Originally Posted by joedoh

muratic acid is mostly to remove the wax the manufacturer put on the s10 frames, if its that rusty there probably isnt a lot of wax left.

I have had good luck with the braided wire cup on a grinder

Originally Posted by 8man

I've read about using muriatic acid on the S10 frame, but this frame has so much surface rust, I'm wondering how you would treat it

I wasn't too happy with the muriatic acid (home depot) and ammonia combination. The amount of prep just to keep that stuff from burning holes through everything wasn't worth my time. Wire cup worked great on my frame just wear a basic mask and goggles. Breathing that dust flying around sucks.

See post #622 of this thread.

[skymangs]

Originally Posted by gigamanx

I wasn't too happy with the muriatic acid (home depot) and ammonia combination. The amount of prep just to keep that stuff from burning holes through everything wasn't worth my time. Wire cup worked great on my frame just wear a basic mask and goggles. Breathing that dust flying around sucks.

See post #622 of this thread.

I use a grinder and a 36 grit flap disk, available at your local Harbor Freight.

[joedoh]

well technically, an "s10 swap" is using the whole frame, so you can ask for opinions on front suspension and using the S10 rear on the regular forum. a couple guys will dance a literal jig that you are keeping the original frame.

[Nchristi]

I've read and reread I guess it just ran together.....thanks

[skymangs]

Originally Posted by Nchristi

Does anyone have a bed mount riser designs that goes with the version 2 cab mount designs?
Posted via Mobile Device

don't I show that?

[joedoh]

well he was, and he hasnt changed his opinions much in the 3 years past. but if everyone had the same opinion the world (and this forum) would be pretty boring.

lets keep this thread on topic, skymangs did everyone a favor starting it for the details of the swap, you can find posts from me asking the same questions as others when he started it.

[skymangs]

well spoken joe doe, now lets get back to the business of building kick-*ss trucks!

[Doranged]

Following this thread very useful thank you!

I'm building a 1950 GMC 100 it's going on a 92 s10 SBRC with a shortened bed. No running boards, going to run side pipes instead. I want to use a stock 74 truck 454 and I'm trying to sorce a 5 speed manual. I didn't see any reference to BBC's. My truck had no floor left so I had to weld in new steel. I want it fairly low so I may have to tunnel the floor and set back some of the firewall. I used to be on this forum a long time ago guess I'll have to figure out how to add pics and stuff again.

Skymangs thank you for your effort, I'm sorry to hear about your troubles but glad you are on the road to recovery!

[skymangs]

Originally Posted by Doranged

Following this thread very useful thank you!

I'm building a 1950 GMC 100 it's going on a 92 s10 SBRC with a shortened bed. No running boards, going to run side pipes instead. I want to use a stock 74 truck 454 and I'm trying to sorce a 5 speed manual. I didn't see any reference to BBC's. My truck had no floor left so I had to weld in new steel. I want it fairly low so I may have to tunnel the floor and set back some of the firewall. I used to be on this forum a long time ago guess I'll have to figure out how to add pics and stuff again.

Skymangs thank you for your effort, I'm sorry to hear about your troubles but glad you are on the road to recovery!

I didn't post anything on big blocks because I've never done one. I try to appeal to the majority, and all of my customers have wanted either a v6, SBC, or LS. the build should be the same though,save the motor mount placement. recovery is slowly progressing.

[Doranged]

Where is the extra 2 inches in the gmc? I assume in the engine bay? Is the cab 2 inches farther back or the radiator farther forward? Everything says a gmc is 2 inches longer but I don't see where that extra length is on the actual trucks

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by Doranged

Where is the extra 2 inches in the gmc? I assume in the engine bay? Is the cab 2 inches farther back or the radiator farther forward? Everything says a gmc is 2 inches longer but I don't see where that extra length is on the actual trucks

its the engine. the GMC engine is 2 inches longer, and the radiator was mounted inside the core support, instead of behind it like a chevy, to allow for this extra length. the difference can be seen in the front engine crossmember, you cant put a chevy engine on a gmc crossmember.

otherwise the sheetmetal is the same, you can use GMC sheetmetal on a chevy and vice versa, as long as you have ALL the front end parts.

a big block uses the same mounts and mount distance as a sbc, so ideally if you set the mounts up for one it should clear the other.