LFD's 4dr Tahoe Build - Page 25 - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Frizzle Fry · 05-25-2009, 12:40 AM

Now we're talkin! BOOM!!!

Rokcrln · 05-25-2009, 09:08 AM

Thanks Fry, it's starting to get somewhere but now it is back out of the shop until XXL's truck is finished up for this round. He should be here about 10am with a list of things to do. I think he will be about a month or less then I will pick up my English Wheel from Lazzy. Nate did me a favor and just tacked in my mounts because I plan on moving things around a bit so I can get everything just how I want then I will build a new fire wall around the 5.3L. So for now progress is at a stand still for the Hoe once again. But she will at-least look good just sitting their won't she

Kevin
LFD Inc.

LooseCannon · 05-25-2009, 04:56 PM

What I like most about this build is how you had the forethought to plant the thing in the weeds while losing minimal interior room. Very cool!!

yellow69z28rs · 05-25-2009, 05:27 PM

I just cant imagine all the man hours. Can you estimate? Truly amazing.

Rokcrln · 05-25-2009, 10:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LooseCannon

What I like most about this build is how you had the forethought to plant the thing in the weeds while losing minimal interior room. Very cool!!

It is not easy but it pays off when all is said and done. Look at todays progress.

Quote:

Originally Posted by yellow69z28rs

I just cant imagine all the man hours. Can you estimate? Truly amazing.

Well I am way over 100 on the rear suspension alone

I set the rear floor in today for the first time with both rear tires and guess what I found, Negative space! My rear seats are 47" out side to out side and my tires are only 46.5" between at full dump. Then add 1/2" per side for inner fender clearance and the fenders them self and you are down in the 45" range. So the easy thing to do would be to find a smaller seat. Since I tend to go for the not so easy route I went ahead and removed the seat covers, plastics and what ever else was on the seat frame and just narrowed each seat 2". So now the seats are 43" +- out to out and I should have plenty of room. I took the 2" from the out side of each because the upholstery has a few lines in that area that will be easier to deal with when that time comes.

Now starting Tuesday I will be back on XXL's truck for about a month or more with the list he gave me today.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

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Rokcrln · 05-25-2009, 11:47 PM

Correction I took the 2" out of the inside not the out side were the shoulder belts are. I was just looking at the floor pic and scared my self I thought I messed up. Glad I was wrong

Now I just need to section 4" right out of the middle of the floor weld the one front middle mount back in. Sounds simple enough right.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

gottwake · 05-26-2009, 12:55 AM

Dang this thing is so gnarly. Dude your tires are almost poking thru the hood! So that leads me to this question; what do you have in line for hinges? Way nice job! Soo bad A$$...

Rokcrln · 05-26-2009, 06:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gottwake

Dang this thing is so gnarly. Dude your tires are almost poking thru the hood! So that leads me to this question; what do you have in line for hinges? Way nice job! Soo bad A$$...

In my head I have a 4 link designed that will come off my inner fenders

Kevin
LFD Inc.

hgs_notes · 05-26-2009, 07:08 AM

You could have the hood flip forward. I think you did that before on another truck.

71 burb · 05-26-2009, 04:45 PM

you got the ride height nailed great job

tdave00 · 05-27-2009, 01:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 71 burb

you got the ride height nailed great job

Number98 · 05-29-2009, 08:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Frizzle Fry

Now we're talkin! BOOM!!!

I could not have said it better!

Rokcrln · 05-30-2009, 11:25 PM

Thanks a lot guys I am really happy with how it is coming together and so is my Wife

I had about 2hrs tonight to work in the shop but I spent most of the day mind building a bag set up for the C4 front. Nate sets them up for shock waves but I just did not want to spend the money they want for them and only end up with minimal travel.

So I took a spare re-7 and went to work and it turned out well. I still have some adjustment with bag placement, shock mounts and sway bar mounts but it looks very promising. It lifts very fast for a 1/4" line and has a good feel to it. Once I work out all the misc. things with it I will make a clean set of mounts and move on to the next item in the build.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

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SCOTI · 05-31-2009, 12:29 AM

I spoke w/Nate about this when I got my C4 DM & he indicated the air-spring was do-able.... the shocks (placement/leverage?) were where I got the feeling he was not happy.

I look forward to see what you come up with.

Rokcrln · 05-31-2009, 12:42 AM

Yep but that is were a good dual adjustable Q1A or the like will help out. Once it is all said and done I will have about the same or less then the Wave's but I will have a lot more travel and a better weight/load rating.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Quote:

Originally Posted by SCOTI

I spoke w/Nate about this when I got my C4 DM & he indicated the air-spring was do-able.... the shocks (placement/leverage?) were where I got the feeling he was not happy.

I look forward to see what you come up with.

MrBeast · 05-31-2009, 02:12 AM

Kevin, I must say I am thoroughly impressed with how this thing is turning out. I want to bounce a question off of you though concerning the Corvette Suspension components.

For the past few months, and for the foreseeable future I have been making my living operating a tow truck, one thing I was taught was that you never ever hook a strap or hook on to an aluminum A-arm on vehicles such as corvettes because they are prone to shattering.

Seeing as how you are using this truck as a tow rig, I wonder do you think it is possible that the Aluminum A-arms will not be strong enough? I know that you aren't exactly going to be pulling a 50' trailer loaded to the gills with pallets of neutronium or something, but I do know that we are talking sports car suspension in a truck, that will ultimately tow other trucks.

I can see that if it is an issue the easy fix is to build your own A-arms out of Chromeolly, I just didn't know if this is something you had considered or not. Well that and I would hate to see you do such a masterful job of building this thing to have it wrecked.

I do know that the corvette is one of the vehicles that is specifically listed as no hook on the A-arms for the aforementioned reason, when hauling them I have to strap them through the wheels. If hooked to the A-arms the insurance will not cover them if damaged, so I know it has been a big deal.

Over all though I must say I was skeptical when you cut the burb length down, but seeing it as it is now, I think it is going to be a note worthy vehicle, and I will be very surprised if it doesn't wind up on the cover of a magazine.

Rokcrln · 05-31-2009, 10:04 AM

MrBeast I know what you are saying but keep in mind in the tow world you are putting the full force of the vehicle on that one A-arm if you were to use it for a pull or tie down location. With driving and towing you are adding force but in a very different way. The front Arms will see more force but it will be more of a side to side load when turning and some in heavy braking but since all my trailers are set up with 4 wheel electric brake's I feel that part will be fine. As for the extra force in turning I am not worried about that at all because I will never be able to put the force into a turn like a race track and a good set of race tires would do, and we know these Vett's can do that with out a problem. With my front bag mounts on the lower arms I took full advantage of the entire surface of the arm as well as all the factory shock and spring mounting locations (even the sway bar mount is tied into the mount. I will also have bracing that will sit tight to the Mono leaf pad for added force distribution. So that takes care of the front and I feel I have covered all safety factors.

The rear is a different story and will see added weight just sitting their with a trailer attached. This is one of the reasons I went all steel on the forward links and made new mounting plates that use every structural mount hole as well. Not only an I double shear plated into the factory front 4 link locations (were as the factory was only single shear) I am also braced down into the shock mounts. Then the rear bag links are using the factory Mono leaf link mounts that are designed very well from the factory. One reason I went with a new diff cover was to set all my links and mounting points right were I wanted them and not just were the stock piece worked. Also in doing this I went from alum to braced steel plate and feel this has added to the overall integrity of the set up. Again keep in mind when these cars are road raced they use the factory parts 90% of the time and I have never heard (I am sure someone has) of a part failing from over stress not to say it can not happen. So all in all I think I have taken in to account the added weight of the vehicle (remember vetts are not light cars) and planned usage. In reality it may never really be a tow vehicle but I would rather build in that direction from the start then just try it out later.

So in closing (darn Novels

) I think it will be more than needed but if not you can at-least get a feel for what goes through my head when getting into something like this. Thanks for asking because I am sure you are not the only one wondering about it.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Rokcrln · 05-31-2009, 11:22 AM

Here are a few pics I forgot to post of the motor clearance. It is tight but it all fits. I may not be able to get a factory engine cover on it with the truck intake but any of the F-body's would work just fine. I plan on ether changing over to the F-body set up or when I re-do the fire wall I might make my own cover.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

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XXL · 05-31-2009, 01:41 PM

When you get done with the suspension work...

Rokcrln · 05-31-2009, 07:49 PM

Ya... But NO! My third row seat is already kids only head room

Kevin
LFD Inc.

woodwright · 05-31-2009, 10:09 PM

This is probably a dumb question, but why do you have the engine back so far?

Rokcrln · 05-31-2009, 11:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by woodwright

This is probably a dumb question, but why do you have the engine back so far?

Well normally you slide the motor back 10% for better weight transfer on the strip. But in this case it is just to clear the rack and pinion and cross-member. The rack sits between the balancer and the pan and that puts the back side of the cross-member right in front of the pan sump. The carb'd motors set forward about 2" more then the LS motors due for Dizzy clearance but I for one like the motor as far back as it can be because this leaves more room for the engine bay work I have planned. It would leave more room for an inner-cooler if I go that direction

On my LowBuck truck I slid the motor back 2" over stock as well.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

woodwright · 06-03-2009, 01:54 AM

Good to know. Thanks. I haven't checked clearance issues since I got my rack mounted.

LOW DOUGH · 06-04-2009, 11:27 AM

WOW! So, I didn't read all of this but just read the last 3 pages. I see you are using a newer sub. floor or is a tahoe floor. Looks like you are using it all the way up the the back of the front seats... or to the back of the back seats. I guess it is for the seat mounts and to use the third row seat too. Any other pics of that? Did I miss them? WOW is all I can say about this build..... I wish I lived close to you. I would have to come over to watch and learn. Truly amazing work. WOW WOW WOW!

Also never noticed the marker light placement on LOW BUCK. Very cool. My grandpa had one just like that LOL.. he also had a tahoe like this too.HAHAHA J/K of course

Rokcrln · 06-04-2009, 06:59 PM

03 Tahoe rear floor just up to the back of the second row seats. I still need to narrow the floor 4" to match the seat narrowing I had to do. No real pics yet as it is just sitting their for storage room. Yes the main reason for the floor section is that Burbs come with Ply Wood rear floors so I had to do something about that with my notch so I figured why not incorporate the 3rd row mounting at the same time.

I will have more pics once I get back on this project. I have a few customer builds to do so I can afford my AccuAir ride control system

Kevin
LFD Inc.

05-25-2009, 12:40 AM	#601
Frizzle Fry Registered User Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Hillsboro Oregon Posts: 6,449	Re: LFD's 4dr Tahoe Build Now we're talkin! BOOM!!!

05-25-2009, 09:08 AM	#602
Rokcrln Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Winters Ca. 95694 Posts: 4,843	Re: LFD's 4dr Tahoe Build Thanks Fry, it's starting to get somewhere but now it is back out of the shop until XXL's truck is finished up for this round. He should be here about 10am with a list of things to do. I think he will be about a month or less then I will pick up my English Wheel from Lazzy. Nate did me a favor and just tacked in my mounts because I plan on moving things around a bit so I can get everything just how I want then I will build a new fire wall around the 5.3L. So for now progress is at a stand still for the Hoe once again. But she will at-least look good just sitting their won't she Kevin LFD Inc. Last edited by Rokcrln; 05-25-2009 at 09:10 AM.

05-25-2009, 04:56 PM	#603
LooseCannon Registered User Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Boiling Springs, PA Posts: 391	Re: LFD's 4dr Tahoe Build What I like most about this build is how you had the forethought to plant the thing in the weeds while losing minimal interior room. Very cool!!

05-25-2009, 05:27 PM	#604
yellow69z28rs Registered User Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: alexandria la. Posts: 33	Re: LFD's 4dr Tahoe Build I just cant imagine all the man hours. Can you estimate? Truly amazing.

05-25-2009, 11:47 PM	#606
Rokcrln Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Winters Ca. 95694 Posts: 4,843	Re: LFD's 4dr Tahoe Build Correction I took the 2" out of the inside not the out side were the shoulder belts are. I was just looking at the floor pic and scared my self I thought I messed up. Glad I was wrong Now I just need to section 4" right out of the middle of the floor weld the one front middle mount back in. Sounds simple enough right. Kevin LFD Inc. Last edited by Rokcrln; 05-25-2009 at 11:50 PM.

05-26-2009, 12:55 AM	#607
gottwake Registered User Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Santa Clarita, CA Posts: 581	Re: LFD's 4dr Tahoe Build Dang this thing is so gnarly. Dude your tires are almost poking thru the hood! So that leads me to this question; what do you have in line for hinges? Way nice job! Soo bad A$$... __________________ Blazer Project

05-26-2009, 07:08 AM	#609
hgs_notes GEARHEAD Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: MN Posts: 6,126	Re: LFD's 4dr Tahoe Build You could have the hood flip forward. I think you did that before on another truck. __________________ If no one knows what you're doing, they can't tell you you're doing it wrong HG's Dream Car Build - Shelby Cobra Kit Build your own adjustable track bar 71 Long Fleet C/10 72 Jimmy 4x4 (Junkyard Jimmy) HG's Plow Truck '78 K35 Dually Bigass Farm Truck HG's thread of miscellaneous stuff

05-26-2009, 04:45 PM	#610
71 burb Registered User Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: mount olive al Posts: 176	Re: LFD's 4dr Tahoe Build you got the ride height nailed great job

05-30-2009, 11:25 PM	#613
Rokcrln Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Winters Ca. 95694 Posts: 4,843	Re: LFD's 4dr Tahoe Build Thanks a lot guys I am really happy with how it is coming together and so is my Wife I had about 2hrs tonight to work in the shop but I spent most of the day mind building a bag set up for the C4 front. Nate sets them up for shock waves but I just did not want to spend the money they want for them and only end up with minimal travel. So I took a spare re-7 and went to work and it turned out well. I still have some adjustment with bag placement, shock mounts and sway bar mounts but it looks very promising. It lifts very fast for a 1/4" line and has a good feel to it. Once I work out all the misc. things with it I will make a clean set of mounts and move on to the next item in the build. Kevin LFD Inc. [IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG]

05-31-2009, 12:29 AM	#614
SCOTI Registered User Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: DALLAS,TX Posts: 22,041	Re: LFD's 4dr Tahoe Build I spoke w/Nate about this when I got my C4 DM & he indicated the air-spring was do-able.... the shocks (placement/leverage?) were where I got the feeling he was not happy. I look forward to see what you come up with. __________________ 67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... *Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.*

05-31-2009, 02:12 AM	#616
MrBeast high-Tech Red Neck Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Livingston, MT/On my boat WA/BC/AK Posts: 2,294	Re: LFD's 4dr Tahoe Build Kevin, I must say I am thoroughly impressed with how this thing is turning out. I want to bounce a question off of you though concerning the Corvette Suspension components. For the past few months, and for the foreseeable future I have been making my living operating a tow truck, one thing I was taught was that you never ever hook a strap or hook on to an aluminum A-arm on vehicles such as corvettes because they are prone to shattering. Seeing as how you are using this truck as a tow rig, I wonder do you think it is possible that the Aluminum A-arms will not be strong enough? I know that you aren't exactly going to be pulling a 50' trailer loaded to the gills with pallets of neutronium or something, but I do know that we are talking sports car suspension in a truck, that will ultimately tow other trucks. I can see that if it is an issue the easy fix is to build your own A-arms out of Chromeolly, I just didn't know if this is something you had considered or not. Well that and I would hate to see you do such a masterful job of building this thing to have it wrecked. I do know that the corvette is one of the vehicles that is specifically listed as no hook on the A-arms for the aforementioned reason, when hauling them I have to strap them through the wheels. If hooked to the A-arms the insurance will not cover them if damaged, so I know it has been a big deal. Over all though I must say I was skeptical when you cut the burb length down, but seeing it as it is now, I think it is going to be a note worthy vehicle, and I will be very surprised if it doesn't wind up on the cover of a magazine. __________________ "He used to be a pretty nice feller, now he's a welder!"

05-31-2009, 10:04 AM	#617
Rokcrln Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Winters Ca. 95694 Posts: 4,843	Re: LFD's 4dr Tahoe Build MrBeast I know what you are saying but keep in mind in the tow world you are putting the full force of the vehicle on that one A-arm if you were to use it for a pull or tie down location. With driving and towing you are adding force but in a very different way. The front Arms will see more force but it will be more of a side to side load when turning and some in heavy braking but since all my trailers are set up with 4 wheel electric brake's I feel that part will be fine. As for the extra force in turning I am not worried about that at all because I will never be able to put the force into a turn like a race track and a good set of race tires would do, and we know these Vett's can do that with out a problem. With my front bag mounts on the lower arms I took full advantage of the entire surface of the arm as well as all the factory shock and spring mounting locations (even the sway bar mount is tied into the mount. I will also have bracing that will sit tight to the Mono leaf pad for added force distribution. So that takes care of the front and I feel I have covered all safety factors. The rear is a different story and will see added weight just sitting their with a trailer attached. This is one of the reasons I went all steel on the forward links and made new mounting plates that use every structural mount hole as well. Not only an I double shear plated into the factory front 4 link locations (were as the factory was only single shear) I am also braced down into the shock mounts. Then the rear bag links are using the factory Mono leaf link mounts that are designed very well from the factory. One reason I went with a new diff cover was to set all my links and mounting points right were I wanted them and not just were the stock piece worked. Also in doing this I went from alum to braced steel plate and feel this has added to the overall integrity of the set up. Again keep in mind when these cars are road raced they use the factory parts 90% of the time and I have never heard (I am sure someone has) of a part failing from over stress not to say it can not happen. So all in all I think I have taken in to account the added weight of the vehicle (remember vetts are not light cars) and planned usage. In reality it may never really be a tow vehicle but I would rather build in that direction from the start then just try it out later. So in closing (darn Novels) I think it will be more than needed but if not you can at-least get a feel for what goes through my head when getting into something like this. Thanks for asking because I am sure you are not the only one wondering about it. Kevin LFD Inc. Last edited by Rokcrln; 05-31-2009 at 10:04 AM.

05-31-2009, 11:22 AM	#618
Rokcrln Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Winters Ca. 95694 Posts: 4,843	Re: LFD's 4dr Tahoe Build Here are a few pics I forgot to post of the motor clearance. It is tight but it all fits. I may not be able to get a factory engine cover on it with the truck intake but any of the F-body's would work just fine. I plan on ether changing over to the F-body set up or when I re-do the fire wall I might make my own cover. Kevin LFD Inc. [IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG]

05-31-2009, 01:41 PM	#619
XXL Señor Member Join Date: May 2002 Location: Edge of the world Posts: 5,367	Re: LFD's 4dr Tahoe Build When you get done with the suspension work... Attached Images __________________ Craigslist \| ebay \| Engrishtees \| www.myattitudesucks.com \| Follow me on Twitter

05-31-2009, 07:49 PM	#620
Rokcrln Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Winters Ca. 95694 Posts: 4,843	Re: LFD's 4dr Tahoe Build Ya... But NO! My third row seat is already kids only head room Kevin LFD Inc.



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05-31-2009, 10:09 PM	#621
woodwright Enjoying left field Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Dillon Montana Posts: 900	Re: LFD's 4dr Tahoe Build This is probably a dumb question, but why do you have the engine back so far? __________________ Clint 70 Chevy 4WD "Ultimate Work Truck" SOLD

06-03-2009, 01:54 AM	#623
woodwright Enjoying left field Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Dillon Montana Posts: 900	Re: LFD's 4dr Tahoe Build Good to know. Thanks. I haven't checked clearance issues since I got my rack mounted. __________________ Clint 70 Chevy 4WD "Ultimate Work Truck" SOLD

06-04-2009, 11:27 AM	#624
LOW DOUGH I'M TRUCK CRAZY! Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Sachse, TEXAS Posts: 1,737	Re: LFD's 4dr Tahoe Build WOW! So, I didn't read all of this but just read the last 3 pages. I see you are using a newer sub. floor or is a tahoe floor. Looks like you are using it all the way up the the back of the front seats... or to the back of the back seats. I guess it is for the seat mounts and to use the third row seat too. Any other pics of that? Did I miss them? WOW is all I can say about this build..... I wish I lived close to you. I would have to come over to watch and learn. Truly amazing work. WOW WOW WOW! Also never noticed the marker light placement on LOW BUCK. Very cool. My grandpa had one just like that LOL.. he also had a tahoe like this too.HAHAHA J/K of course Last edited by LOW DOUGH; 06-04-2009 at 11:30 AM.

06-04-2009, 06:59 PM	#625
Rokcrln Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Winters Ca. 95694 Posts: 4,843	Re: LFD's 4dr Tahoe Build 03 Tahoe rear floor just up to the back of the second row seats. I still need to narrow the floor 4" to match the seat narrowing I had to do. No real pics yet as it is just sitting their for storage room. Yes the main reason for the floor section is that Burbs come with Ply Wood rear floors so I had to do something about that with my notch so I figured why not incorporate the 3rd row mounting at the same time. I will have more pics once I get back on this project. I have a few customer builds to do so I can afford my AccuAir ride control system Kevin LFD Inc.

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