Project 68 k10 LWB..aka "The Hulk"

[7dee2]

Wow, looks great! Laughed just a little bit, very ingenious Scott!

Not a body guy but I would think you can check inner rocker to frame for side to side and some squaring. That’ll get you close but needs the front clip and then a bed to tell the whole story.

[First c10]

Originally Posted by 7dee2

Wow, looks great! Laughed just a little bit, very ingenious Scott!

Not a body guy but I would think you can check inner rocker to frame for side to side and some squaring. That’ll get you close but needs the front clip and then a bed to tell the whole story.

Thanks Brett, to tell the truth I laughed also...... in fact if something bad would have happened I would not have posted the pictures!!!!lol My son came to help and was like "Dad that looks shady!"
All we did was raise and lower as it didn't move other than that.

I did what you were saying regarding trying to square the Cab to the frame.
I just wanted to make sure that it was even on both sides and not needed to be like a 1/2" to one side for some reason.

[First c10]

Good morning guys.
Had some time last night to get the doors mounted and adjusted. Thought what the heck keep going!!! Got the fenders on and grill installed. Need to adjust the passenger fender a little more but couldn't do it by myself. When I left last night it was 1/8" out of square. Not bad for doing it by myself. The aftermarket radiator support needs some work holes don't line up etc. I will drill them out and repair after I blow it apart for paint.

Feeling pretty good about it. I took a picture of the truck and sent it to him with the caption "check out MY truck". LOL. With sports, FFA and homework he doesn't have much time to help.

Oh and he said. "Your crazy"

[First c10]

Anyone up for a little window frame bending????
Talked to my body guy. He said it was looking good. Gave me a little encouragement on getting the window frame correct. I knew I had to bend it but wanted him to verify. 10 min after he left. It was ready!!!!

Now I need to get the holes in the fenders welded up and get them either dipped or blasted. I am going to clean up what I can but will soak the seams/pinch welds with rust converter.
Bad thing is no one is close to me that does that stuff. I guess I could just blast them with media from tractor supply or soda blast them.
any ideas?

[7dee2]

Very, very nice Scott, great stance!

Kind of a PITA, but if you've got a compressor that'll keep up you could blast those parts yourself?

[First c10]

Originally Posted by 7dee2

Very, very nice Scott, great stance!

Kind of a PITA, but if you've got a compressor that'll keep up you could blast those parts yourself?

Thank you.
Yes I have a large 80 gallon 5.5 hp compressor. Just not sure the best media to use and where to get it. Also. Be nice to just drop off and pick up lol.

[DWilbur]

I use black oxide for blasting. Tractor supply is the cheapest place to get it. or fine grit sand. I also filter the black oxide and reuse it several times to save cost.

[87max]

Originally Posted by DWilbur

I use black oxide for blasting. Tractor supply is the cheapest place to get it. or fine grit sand. I also filter the black oxide and reuse it several times to save cost.

I do the exact same, sometimes the grit is critical depending on blaster type so it flows. I put down 6 mil plastic outside for easy sweeping then run it through a stainless colander that happened to fit perfect in the top of my blaster.

[First c10]

Until I figure out what I am going to do with the blasting. I went ahead and welded up the holes on the door from the trim.

More to come.

[First c10]

I picked up some 80 grit Garnet at work to see if it would work. A little aggressive but not to bad. The Garnet was nice to clean up. I will see if we have anything a little finer and try it. Tractor supply was out of the black oxide so I will have to wait.

I was able to get the passenger fender cleaned up on the inside. I am going to coat the pinch welds/lap joints with rust encapsulator. I think that it will help keep the fender from rusting in places I cant get to, to clean up the rust. my paint and body guy said that it would not hurt.
Sorry no pictures today.

[swamp rat]

Originally Posted by First c10

I picked up some 80 grit Garnet at work to see if it would work. A little aggressive but not to bad. The Garnet was nice to clean up. I will see if we have anything a little finer and try it. Tractor supply was out of the black oxide so I will have to wait.

I was able to get the passenger fender cleaned up on the inside. I am going to coat the pinch welds/lap joints with rust encapsulator. I think that it will help keep the fender from rusting in places I cant get to, to clean up the rust. my paint and body guy said that it would not hurt.
Sorry no pictures today.

That's exactly what i have been doing with my stuff, Vic suggested a product called GEM, its a liquid that has wicking properties so it work its way into the pinch welds and lap joints pretty well. http://www.gemrustkiller.com/

Per the Black Diamond, I think i bought the medium grit then decided it was to course so bought some fine grit.

[First c10]

Hey Mike thanks for the link. I will look into it. I know my body guy uses rust mort. But I like the idea of the wicking properties you spoke of.

An update.
I was able to get the doors and fenders and cowl aligned about as good as I can. Got all the gaps as close as I can get. So now I have a few questions. Is it common to cut up or weld up on the cowl to make the gaps correct? I am trying to keep the gaps at 3/16" no more than 1/4"

Check out the pictures of the passenger side.

[First c10]

The driver side gaps are much better. I was hoping that both would be this good but no luck.

[First c10]

Motor Monday picture!!!

Ok so I got the hood hinges installed. Now time to square it all up and put the hood on and check fitment

[swamp rat]

I have seen a couple builds here where they sliced and diced the cowl a bit, nothing I have done so I can advise much on that. It does look like that maybe the addition of a length of welding rod to the rear of the passenger side may help get that gap to the door closed up a bit.

[7dee2]

It looks great, thinking your gaps are well within GM specs! I concur time to see what the hood will tell you?

[First c10]

Originally Posted by 7dee2

It looks great, thinking your gaps are well within GM specs! I concur time to see what the hood will tell you?

Brett
Did GM have a spec? I guess 1/8"-1/2" is a spec lol.

I am trying to just make them the same. About 3/16" would be good.

I agree about the hood just need to get some help to get that hood intstalled.
It will tell everything I think.

How did yours fit when you test fit it? I am sure yours is a GM hood, mine is a aftermarket cowl induction hood. So I am sure I will have to do some work.

[7dee2]

Originally Posted by First c10

Brett
Did GM have a spec? I guess 1/8"-1/2" is a spec lol.

I am trying to just make them the same. About 3/16" would be good.

I agree about the hood just need to get some help to get that hood intstalled.
It will tell everything I think.

How did yours fit when you test fit it? I am sure yours is a GM hood, mine is a aftermarket cowl induction hood. So I am sure I will have to do some work.

Yep, busted 1/8”-1/2”! Seriously your panel fitment is looking great, a painter friend of mine told me once he liked using paint stirring sticks to set his gaps.

Good score on the whole truck purchase, that bed is going to look very cherry on this truck!

[First c10]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

I have seen a couple builds here where they sliced and diced the cowl a bit, nothing I have done so I can advise much on that. It does look like that maybe the addition of a length of welding rod to the rear of the passenger side may help get that gap to the door closed up a bit.

Thanks Mike

I do believe I can add a little bit of rod to the door side of the cowl but will need to take a little from the A pillar gap.

[First c10]

Last weekend I went ahead and bought that whole truck. 72 Cheyenne c20

I figured for what I paid for it I get the bed and will sell the rest of the parts to recoup my money. May even make a little bit.
In the pictures I have already removed most of the trim and damaged stuff.
Has a great driver door and fender. Passenger fender has a dent on the outer skin but the inside is in great shape. Inner door components all the AC stuff etc.

Has a great in cab gas tank that I'm going to put in Hulk Jr.

[87max]

I used straight ceiling grid wire (1/8) when I needed gaps filled, worked great.

[First c10]

Thanks Brett I used the paint stick method. I was also told the same by my body guy.

The thing I am worried about is that I get the gaps where I want them and then the hood goes on and I have to move them out because the hood is 1/4" to long or far forward. I have seen a few people have hood issues from having nice and tight gaps but the hood wants fat and nasty!!!!
As soon as I get help I am going to get he hood bolting on and find out.

I got the whole truck for 400$. My plan is to get my money back with the rest of the truck. Suspension, axles, door, fender interior parts. Etc. I think I can get my 400 back fast.

Tha attached pictures are me massaging the metal for better gaps. I now have the front sheetmetal square. I think I have to work on the lower fender/rocker area it need a little bigger gap and add some filler to the cowl to the door area.
Again all is good if the hood fits right.

Oh one more thing. The cowl cover to the cowl. I have about 1/4" between them I know the seal will fill maybe 1/8". Is this normal?

[First c10]

More and more adjusting. It can't get anymore square. Moved the cowl induction hood next to the truck and opened the box. Man I need some help.

Hopefully I can get it on tomorrow.

[DWilbur]

That is way to nice of a hood for you. I think I should have it.

[7dee2]

Sahweet hood!

Thinking your cowl panel will pull down to your 1/8" guesstimate once you install the mounting screws. Curious if your original paint panel has these little pads, one on each side? I removed them when we sent ours out for blasting so I could reinstall them on final assembly.