Finally "Silvers" build thread!! ('78 swb 2wd silverado)

[glock35ipsc]

I'll only need enough to cover shipping, and we'll worry about that when I know what it will be.

[menace121978]

wow! what a guy

thanks Bob!

[glock35ipsc]

Take a look at this pic of pcmcobra's truck. It's hard to tell if there is enough clearance or not:



The #2 cylinder tube (very front one) looks to turns straight back where it passes the upper rear corner of the clamshell, right under the #2 cylinder spark plug. So, it looks like if there was any interference, it would be with the top of the clamshell. But if that is the case, look at this pic of mine with the relocated mount:



If you needed to, it looks like you could literally cut the top rear corner off of the clamshell and fill it back in to make room for the tube to pass by.

Clear as mud?

[menace121978]

i gotcha... looks like there's enough clearance. the difference in pcm's mounts is that his sits farther back than Fred's right? i have an old clam shell i'll go find today and take a look at. i think its in the bed...

just wondering, how close is the firewall to the engine in Fred?

[glock35ipsc]

His mounts are the same ones I used, from Car Shop Inc. The only difference is the mod I did to move the pass side rubber mount back. His rubber mount is in the "normal" position for these plates (green triangle). I moved my pass side back (red triangle), and cut the front of the plate off to make clearance for the AC bracket (white line), but the drivers side is unchanged.



As for firewall clearance, I probably have just slightly more than the SBC:

[JohnC]

Originally Posted by glock35ipsc

Man that is a pretty shot! Come on Dennis you need to get moving on that thing! So I can live vicariously through you.

[menace121978]

Bob, i dont think you could make it any clearer than that! thank you... by looking at the clamshells this morning if there is going to be a problem w/ clearance its nothing a grinder cant fix

lol, John, sorry man. i know it seems like im dragging this out but i have to make sure i fully understand whats going on and what i'm doing.

[rongstad]

What about this:

http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/lsx-t...c-bracket.html

dont even have to crack your AC lines.... I'm waiting for a set and will let everyone know how my build goes once I start.

[79gmc5.3]

Hey Bob sign me up for one of those. Just let me know how much and where to send it too(paypal or what ever).

[79gmc5.3]

Originally Posted by menace121978

Bob, i dont think you could make it any clearer than that! thank you... by looking at the clamshells this morning if there is going to be a problem w/ clearance its nothing a grinder cant fix

lol, John, sorry man. i know it seems like im dragging this out but i have to make sure i fully understand whats going on and what i'm doing.

I'm with you Dennis, I have to fully understand something before I start. Thats why I take so long to do anything, I'm not real smart

[glock35ipsc]

Originally Posted by rongstad

What about this:

http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/lsx-t...c-bracket.html

dont even have to crack your AC lines.... I'm waiting for a set and will let everyone know how my build goes once I start.

Nice!!! Figures, someone comes out with exactly what we need....... AFTER I sold off my OEM compressor! You would still want to get new lines, or at least have the OEM lines shortened, since the compressor is originally on the drivers side. That would be a Charlie Foxtrot moving everything as-is to the passenger side.

So.... $290 shipped, you use your existing compressor, no mods needed to the plates or stand, and Bob wasted a good 3 hours on CAD this morning drawing up prints/templates and instructions on how to mod the plates!

[menace121978]

dont feel bad buddy! doing it your way saves us all $250+...

and some of us dont/didnt/never had that style compressor. it is good to see another option for others though!!! thanks Rongstad!

[JohnC]

Originally Posted by menace121978

Bob, i dont think you could make it any clearer than that! thank you... by looking at the clamshells this morning if there is going to be a problem w/ clearance its nothing a grinder cant fix

lol, John, sorry man. i know it seems like im dragging this out but i have to make sure i fully understand whats going on and what i'm doing.

I was just giving you a hard time. I wouldn't expect you to do it any other way!

[menace121978]

for what is worth i do like that better than the S&P bracket. looks more factory to me and less blingy -if thats a word!!

[menace121978]

Originally Posted by JohnC

I was just giving you a hard time. I wouldn't expect you to do it any other way!

i know... its clear that i'm not the sharpest spoon in the drawer!

[glock35ipsc]

I agree. I would compare it to the Kwik Perf kit, only you wouldn't need to get a compressor.

OK, so I'll continue with my CAD drawings!

OH, BTW....... the Vortec MAX covers he has on there, I have the part numbers for all three of those. $71.96 plus shipping for all three new from gmpartsdirect.com.

P/S - #12597908, $17.46
D/S - #12598332, $19.16
Top - #15006418, $35.34

[menace121978]

thats a really good deal! Geralds gonna hook up my caddy ones and get rid of that big emblem on the front smooth them and paint'em (i think) or id be all over that deal!

maybe i should become a vendor and sell'em for $100+

[rongstad]

Originally Posted by glock35ipsc

Nice!!! Figures, someone comes out with exactly what we need....... AFTER I sold off my OEM compressor! You would still want to get new lines, or at least have the OEM lines shortened, since the compressor is originally on the drivers side. That would be a Charlie Foxtrot moving everything as-is to the passenger side.

So.... $290 shipped, you use your existing compressor, no mods needed to the plates or stand, and Bob wasted a good 3 hours on CAD this morning drawing up prints/templates and instructions on how to mod the plates!

Gee Bob.....its been so long that I opened the hood, I forgot the AC on the drivers side..... lol..... looks like that 3 hours was well spent...

Originally Posted by menace121978

dont feel bad buddy! doing it your way saves us all $250+...

and some of us dont/didnt/never had that style compressor. it is good to see another option for others though!!! thanks Rongstad!

Your welcome.....just tryin to help the few of us, me included that can't weld.....I'd really like to keep the AC on the factory location....... I still need my headers, wiring harness, pcm programmed and the yoke for the tranny before I even can drain the oil....lol.......

[glock35ipsc]

Pssst..... Dennis, looky here:

Modifying the frame stand for AC

[rongstad]

Originally Posted by glock35ipsc

Pssst..... Dennis, looky here:

Modifying the frame stand for AC

Nice bob!!!! you make it look easy!!! now where to find that "dummies guide to welding."

[menace121978]

whoa! that is sweet! hell even I can understand that one!!! thanks Bob

i do have 1 question though... and i should know this but what is a gusset and i dont suppose you have an example pic of one??

rongstad, he does make it look easy. as for the welding that i know is pretty easy. just not easy (for me) to make pretty welds! just take the engine table into someone. it shouldnt cost too much.

[glock35ipsc]

Mmm, don't have a pic. But imagine looking at the end of a book shelf. It is the piece supporting the book shelf, but instead of a simple flat piece going from the wall to the shelf, imagine it being a triangle with one side on the wall and one side under the shelf, with the third side just hanging out looking sexy.

[54Caddy]

a man, you going to be around this weekend want to go by and look at your truck, damn if you need help too ill help you do this swap..

[fpjr0]

guys I am sorry if I am a little slow here but,,,I truly read all 25 pages of replys to this post and I am a little tired,,, its almost 1 am wife is gonna be pissed but oh well,,,, I read on a earlier page that you didnt have to move you transmission cross member, you only drilled 4 holes, and are going to be able to re use the drive shaft with no mods, how much did you move your engine back/forward? I saw the you mod the front cross member welding the small extra piece but couldnt I just order the type of plate adapters that have the extra holes to move engine back or forward?


by the way you work fast,,,,, nice looking truck

[glock35ipsc]

Dennis, if I may....

Originally Posted by fpjr0

guys I am sorry if I am a little slow here but,,,I truly read all 25 pages of replys to this post and I am a little tired,,, its almost 1 am wife is gonna be pissed but oh well,,,, I read on a earlier page that you didnt have to move you transmission cross member, you only drilled 4 holes,

You will have to move the crossmember, but how much depends on which trans you will use. With a 4L60E it is just a couple of inches, and you will drill two extra holes on each side. With a 4L80E it may be more than just a couple of inches, and may require a custom crossmember. There are 3 different overall lengths of 4L60E and 4L80E 2wd transmissions, depending on the application they originally came from.

(Dennis - I have some ideas on building a crossmember for yours if it need one.)

and are going to be able to re use the drive shaft with no mods,

If you are using a 4L60E, with the motor mount adapter plates I will mention below, yes your driveshaft will go right back in. If you use a 4L80E trans, or different adapter plates, probably not. The 4L60E uses the same slip yoke as the TH350, but the 4L80E does not. The 4L80E can be longer than the 4L60E by as much as 3".

how much did you move your engine back/forward? I saw the you mod the front cross member welding the small extra piece but couldnt I just order the type of plate adapters that have the extra holes to move engine back or forward?

With the plate I always recommend, and used on Fred, it sets the engine in a place where the original driveshaft is able to be reused as-is (assuming a 4L60E trans), and the fan sits perfectly in the fan shroud. It also allows the transmission linkage to be reused with only minor adjustment, and when replacing the gear selector indicator in the dash with that from an O/D truck, it will perfectly indicate in all gears. The mods made to the passenger side engine stand you asked about is to allow the use of the 5.3L's original A/C compressor. It will not fit length-wise without the mod.

These are the plates that I recommend (if you wear glasses, flip them around to read this):



And this is why the passenger side needs the mod in order to use the 5.3L's compressor: