Trying to make Junky perhaps just a little bit Funky...

[72 tigger]

Making progress, keep up the good work

[DD1]

Yesterday I realized I made another dumb mistake, with the upper ball joint this time. A friend was over and noticed the D/S ball joint was installed differently than the P/S. For some reason I installed the ball joint under the arm instead of over the arm. I don't know what I was smoking when I worked on this side of the truck. This probably explains why the boot cracked and leaked. Ordered a new ball joint since I had to take it out anyway.

A while ago I purchased a used power brake booster, master cylinder, and proportioning valve of the forum. This was when I was collecting parts without actually thinking about what I was buying and whether it was better to by new or refurbished. Took a good look at the master cylinder today, and decided I was better off buying a rebuilt one than cleaning the old one.

Also ordered the parts to replace the pitman shaft seal on the power steering gearbox, and a new pitman arm since I don't really know what kind of shape the one that came with the gearbox (bought off ebay) is in.

I'm a bit wiser and spending money smarter now, but I wish I had learned these lessons sooner.

Here's my dumb ball joint install.


Fortunately, I don't need to take everything apart to change it. Just leaving the jack under the arm.


Here is the master cylinder that I don't want to clean.

[DD1]

I took a good look at the Power Brake Booster and the good news is I bought the larger one for the 1 ton trucks. The bad news is I need some parts to hook it up to the pushrod. Anyone know where I can find them?

I think the pushrod on the cab is for power brakes - the truck has the bolts for them and I can see the wear on the firewall where a booster bracket was removed.

[DD1]

Got my 2nd upper ball joint today and installed it the correct way this time. The D/S front end is now done.

I also got the master cylinder from Autozone and it's not the same one that was pictured.

I ordered part M1494 which looks the same as the old MC, and I think they sent me part NM1494 (in the M1494 box) which has a smaller rear chamber. Does it make a difference if I use the one with the smaller rear chamber?

On the left is what I received, and on the right is what I ordered. Then is the new one on the left and the old on the right.

Everything fits on the new one. Should I just keep it or return it and get the exact same type of MC?



Regarding the Brake Booster, I don't have the hardware to connect it to the pushrod. It looks like I can just use a bolt and nut to attach the pushrod to the booster(?). I am pretty sure the pushrod on the truck is the longer one made for using a booster, but I could be wrong. I found a thread on here that tell you the size, I just need to remember to measure it.

[crakarjax]

If the MC fits AND the pushrod hole size/depth are the same I'd run it. I'd be hesitant to use a regular bolt on the booster, iirc they have spring washers to keep the rod centered and a smooth surface for less wear.

[DD1]

Originally Posted by crakarjax

If the MC fits AND the pushrod hole size/depth are the same I'd run it. I'd be hesitant to use a regular bolt on the booster, iirc they have spring washers to keep the rod centered and a smooth surface for less wear.

Thanks! I checked the MC and compared it to the old one after reading your post. The mating part of the MC looks exactly the same; I used a piece of rope to test the depth and it is the same.

[DD1]

A few weeks ago, I purchased a used Kwik Lift. The challenge was getting the truck on the Kwik Lift without rolling it out of the garage and back in. With a lot of work using jacks, 4x4 blocks of wood, jack stands with a 24" height, and a Come-A-long to rectify a mistake, we finally got it up and working.

Looking forward to being able to get under the truck with the greatest of ease! Now I can finish up those brake lines and actually see what I am doing!

[DD1]

Loving the new lift / ramp. Makes it so much easier to do stuff under the truck.

Yesterday I took apart the pitman arm shaft from the gearbox and replaced the seals. Was having a lot of trouble getting it back in place, took a break until today, and then very quickly realized what I was doing wrong.

When I was putting the shaft back in, the gears were in this position...


I did not realize right away that I could move them up into this position:

Hopefully I did not screw up anything else. I really don't want to take it apart again or get another one.

Here's a pic of the new seals installed. Was easier than I thought it would be, although getting the old seals out was a PITA.


Replaced the Pitman Arm and reconnected the power steering lines. I still need to add power steering fluid and finish the rag joint. I saw a Rag Joint repair kit and thought it would be a great idea to buy it. That was a mistake. While trying to take apart the rag joint, I damaged it beyond repair. Just gonna get a replacement now.

Moved on to the brake lines. I installed the parking brake yesterday. Almost have the brake lines completely in. The goal is to test the power brake booster and get the brakes working. Also want to be able to steer the truck so I can move in/out of the garage as needed, and turn it around. I will have to disconnect the steering and brakes again at some point, but it's a necessity right now.

I removed the two broken studs from the firewall. I used a grinding wheel on a Dremel to reduce the weld and banged out the stud till it gave. Will replace them with bolts and nuts.





Last, I removed the bracket and boot from the brake booster. I don't know anything about boosters, but if you can tell anything from these pics good or bad, please let me know.

[DD1]

Finished installing the cab mounts, which has been on my to-do list for a while so I can continue to work on the cab over the winter.

After blasting and painting the power brake booster, bracket, and proportioning valve, did a dry install to see how everything lines up. One of the booster support brackets won't meet the firewall; going to try and bend it to see if it will work better.

I need to be careful how I bend it so the horizontal part does not go lower. It's in the perfect position to be attached to that bolt in the firewall.

[DD1]

Made some good progress today.

Installed the brace for the booster, was able to bend it enough to get a 1-1/4" bolt on it, then ratcheted it in position.

Bled the brake M/C while it was mounted on the booster.

Installed the rest of the brake lines, which along with the proportioning valave was a royal PITA.

Mounted the tilt steering column. Still have some adjustments to make. The column is turned a bit too much to the right for starters. I also forgot to install the half ring piece that holds the column in place.

I started to install the Lokar shift linkage, but I might need to cut the rod. Had to call it a day to take care of some other stuff. If I could get the column rotated left, I might not need to cut the rod.

[DD1]

Quick Update:

I have been searching for a new seat ever since I was told that the seat I had bought was not for a 67-72 truck, and that it was in horrible condition.

I found a used seat in Canada at Bill's Truck Shop, the same place I got the impossible-to-find spring support braces last year. The seat was $500 CAD or $380 US.

Shipping would of course be way too expensive. I got a call for a last minute work meeting in Watertown NY, drove up for the meeting and took a detour into Canada to get the seat.

Canadian Customs was fine; they did not even charge me a duty tax. US Customs "randomly" selected me to search my car and waste my time. But they were polite, other than I find it strange that they make you wait inside while they search your car WITHOUT you being present.

The seat is in really good condition, and super soft. The upholstery is in good but not great condition, but we will event change it anyway as my wife does not like the colors.

[swamp rat]

Keep on trucking!

[twoskies]

lol looks like mine

[DD1]

Originally Posted by twoskies

lol looks like mine

It Does! Except the upholstery on yours is probably in better shape. It's okay on mine, but will need to be changed at some point. No where near worrying about that now.

[DD1]

This weekend I spent a lot of time in the garage and got very little accomplished.


- Decided to replace the transmission pan. When my friend rebuilt the transmission he added a drain plug to it, which is leaking a lot. No point trying to fix it or get a used one. Ordered a replacement plan from Summit that comes with a gasket for $36.

Also ordered the front sway bar lit from Summit. I wanted to get free shipping, and I've been meaning to get it anyway.

- Tried working on the carburetor, and ended up losing a couple parts, such as the hinge pin for the float/needle and a washer for one of the tiny screws. Fortunately I have spare parts from other Rochester carbs. Could not get it running right, so ordered a new float, gasket, and needle from Cliff's Carburetors.

- Wasted a lot of time on Saturday trying to properly install the P/S down pipe to the exhaust manifold. Finally called it a night when I dropped a socket extension and cut my lip.

- Sunday gave the exhaust it fresh start. Realized that the reason I could not get to the nuts is because the gasket was too thick. Found a smaller gasket and finished the D/S, then went to Autozone for the other gasket.

Not really sure where I got the thicker gaskets, maybe they came with the down pipes, but using them I did not have enough space to get a socket on the nuts.

Was able to get both sides done and shoved the muffler on one pipe for now.

[cebra]

I have never seen these gaskets before but I think it is exactly what I need to resolve my exhaust leak. I used the flat gaskets that go between the flanges but the flange on the exhaust side (not header side) is very warped so it leaks. These appear to go in the pipe on both sides so the flange being warped wouldn't matter I don't think

[DD1]

Originally Posted by cebra

I have never seen these gaskets before but I think it is exactly what I need to resolve my exhaust leak. I used the flat gaskets that go between the flanges but the flange on the exhaust side (not header side) is very warped so it leaks. These appear to go in the pipe on both sides so the flange being warped wouldn't matter I don't think

You mean the big ones that I am not using? If you want them, there are yours. I don’t have use for them. PM me your address; I’ll send them to you.

[DD1]

Got my carburetor parts, transmission pan, and sway bar this week. I know I've said this before, but maybe this will be the weekend the truck rolls on it's own.

[DD1]

Installed the new carb gasket, float, needle, and seat. Hopefully that will solve the carb problems. Managed not to lose anything this time.

Removed the transmission pan without thinking about the fluid that might still be in the pan and made a bug mess on the floor and a little mess on my face. Fortunately nothing in my eye. Installed the new pan with the gasket and bolts that came with it.
Added 1 gallon of fluid, have to go get another gallon.

Reinstalled the starter.

Tomorrow I will add more fluid to the transmission, start it up and see if it runs. Will also start to install the CPP Sway Bar.

Don't really care much about how the transmission pan looks, especially considering it's under the truck, but I kinda like the look of the one I got from Summit.

[DD1]

Started the truck yesterday. It ran and the carb did not leak. Need to clean up the engine bay a bit so nothing gets in the way if I move it, but it's ready to roll on it's own. Hopefully Thanksgiving weekend will be it.

[DD1]

Today my goal was to get the Sway Bar installed, and it actually got completed the same day despite some setbacks. I grinded down the rivet on the P/S of the frame and when I finally for it popped out the crossmember shifted.

After plenty of tries of different ways to get the holes lined up and the bolt installed, I finally tried using a Come-A-long to squeeze the frame together. It worked.




Then I installed the wrong bracket - the one for lowered trucks.


After correcting that mistakes and the few other small mistakes I made, the sway bar was finally installed.

[DD1]

In order to get the truck moving on it's own, I need to install the battery. I have a large battery - too large for the stock tray - that I purchased used from a local auto parts store. The guy tested it and said it probably won't last very long and to bring it back when I am done with it for a refund of the $20 I paid. That was about 2 years ago.

I decided instead of investing close to $100 on a new battery that won't get much use, I would invest $27 on a aftermarket battery tray. Picked up this one from Summit and it arrived today. Hoping to figure out how to modify it to fit tomorrow.

[cornerstone]

My front crossmember had some spring in it also when I removed that same rivet when I added my sway bar also. I wondered if that meant my frame was twisted. My truck was backed into when it was about 6 months old and the dealership replaced the bedside, and straightened out the rear portion of the cab right below the fuel filler since it was dented up pretty bad. I measured everything out as best as I could and did find about 3/8" discrepancy in squareness. I just did the same thing as you and forced the new bolt back in the rivet hole and moved forward. I drove the truck for years like that and never noticed it, so I'm not gonna worry about it now.

You're making great progress man!

I think you got your $20 worth out of that battery!

[DD1]

Originally Posted by cornerstone

My front crossmember had some spring in it also when I removed that same rivet when I added my sway bar also. I wondered if that meant my frame was twisted. My truck was backed into when it was about 6 months old and the dealership replaced the bedside, and straightened out the rear portion of the cab right below the fuel filler since it was dented up pretty bad. I measured everything out as best as I could and did find about 3/8" discrepancy in squareness. I just did the same thing as you and forced the new bolt back in the rivet hole and moved forward. I drove the truck for years like that and never noticed it, so I'm not gonna worry about it now.

You're making great progress man!

I think you got your $20 worth out of that battery!

Thanks! My hope is to get most of the body work done over the winter and start reassembling in the spring. Don't know if I will get there, but I will try.


I definitely got my $20 worth! But as long as it keeps cranking, I'm gonna keep using it. I also think I would like to have a bigger battery than the stock tray allows.

I'm not worried about the cross-member moving at all. I'm not really surprised that it did. Prior to removing the rivet, I read on another thread to only remove one rivet and install the bracket before moving on to the next because the cross-member will move. I wasn't expecting it to move, but not surprised it did.

Mine may have also had a minor front hit. The very front of the frame where the bumper attaches has a crack. Seems like it can be welded up without too much trouble though.

[DD1]

Today I started working on the extra door I have. I bought a used hood from someone and the only way he would drop it off at my house is if I took the door.

I figured I would try and replace the outer skin on the door. Even if I mess it up, it's an extra door so it's not that big of a deal. I successfully removed the skin from the door more or less, and saw that the bottom of the inner door is rusted. Now I need to decide if I want to continue fixing this door, or if I want to repair and use my original door. The original door has some other issues, so I am probably going to go with the latter option.

I read instructions on doing this on other threads on this board, and watched a video. Seems like a straightforward enough process. Trying to outside of my comfort levels.

Extra door.