Starting my engine build

[Mrturner1]

PUTTING IN ALL THE FLUIDS AND STARTIN HER UP!!!! I'll take video

[Mrturner1]

It started!!!!! Ran like a champ but the belt was screaming. New pulleys aren't lined up properly so tomarrow ill have to get a new belt and figure out a way to make the puppy's all line up.

BUT IT RAN!!!! Woooooohooooo I built a motor that works!! And it sounds so much more badass than it used to. The bump in compression made a huge difference. I'm not gonna be able to sleep tonight but I'll be at it again tomarrow

[swamp rat]

Just don't get so pumped you forget to go straight into break in mode when you do fire it up.

Maybe post straight from the side pictures of what is not aligned properly. New pulley's? aftermarket? Yea that can be a problem, there are shims available for the crank pulley, maybe water pump, that is if the pulley needs to be spaced away from the engine..

[swamp rat]

Hey i thought you returned that chrome alternator.... Maybe that was the water pump..

[Mrturner1]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

Just don't get so pumped you forget to go straight into break in mode when you do fire it up.

Maybe post straight from the side pictures of what is not aligned properly. New pulley's? aftermarket? Yea that can be a problem, there are shims available for the crank pulley, maybe water pump, that is if the pulley needs to be spaced away from the engine..

I shimmed the water pump to line up perfectly with alternator, now it's just the crank pulley. It to far out though and has no shims so I don't know how I'm gonna get that to line up right. They are polished aluminum aftermarket pulleys. I'm so excited!!!

[Mrturner1]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

Hey i thought you returned that chrome alternator.... Maybe that was the water pump..

It was the water pump lol alternator was cheap from this sites classifieds

[GASoline71]

Is that your temp sending unit in the intake on the front passenger side? I'd put it where it belongs in the drivers side cylinder head, and reroute that heater hose to the passenger side front intake.

Not to nit-pick, but it will look way better too, so the hoses aren't stretched over the front of the engine.

Like this:



Gary

[swamp rat]

Originally Posted by Mrturner1

I shimmed the water pump to line up perfectly with alternator, now it's just the crank pulley. It to far out though and has no shims so I don't know how I'm gonna get that to line up right. They are polished aluminum aftermarket pulleys. I'm so excited!!!

This is why i hate aftermarket pulleys Unless you buy a system where they are all designed to work together, every aftermarket pulley i have looked at at the auto parts store's always have alignment issues when mixed with stock stuff..

[Mrturner1]

Originally Posted by GASoline71

Is that your temp sending unit in the intake on the front passenger side? I'd put it where it belongs in the drivers side cylinder head, and reroute that heater hose to the passenger side front intake.

Not to nit-pick, but it will look way better too, so the hoses aren't stretched over the front of the engine.

Like this:



Gary

Is the temp more accurate in the driver side head? Cleaner would look better, I just need a plug for the intake

[Mrturner1]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

This is why i hate aftermarket pulleys Unless you buy a system where they are all designed to work together, every aftermarket pulley i have looked at at the auto parts store's always have alignment issues when mixed with stock stuff..

I'm working on shimming the alt pulley and water pump pulley OUT to match the crank pulley. Got a new belt and I'll try it again

[68c10owner]

I see no mention of any break in of the camshaft. Please tell me you didnt just fire it up and let it idle.

[swamp rat]

No he knows about the break in procedure, but he has threads allover the board so its hard to keep track.

He said he had a 10 minute run and had to shut it down because the belt broke, but will start the procedure over upon refiring the engine.

[Mrturner1]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

No he knows about the break in procedure, but he has threads allover the board so its hard to keep track.

He said he had a 10 minute run and had to shut it down because the belt broke, but will start the procedure over upon refiring the engine.

Got the pulleys lined up and new belt on. Fired right up and ran it at 2100-2500rpms for another 20 minutes. Then I turned the idle UP to about 3000 rpm and put a timing light on it. It was way about 11 degrees off. Unplugged the vacuum advance on the distributor, and set my timing dial to 36, turned the distributor a bit advanced until I was at 0 on the timing tab and it started running MUCH nicer. No pops, hiccups or backfires now and I re plugged the vacuum advance. Idled down to 850, and it's ABSOLUTELY NASTY. That 280H comp magnum is a beast! The bump in compression made a nice improvement as well.

I'm playing with the 650 AVS carb still. Two screws on the front, left is idle mixture screw correct? What should that be set at? Left screw is what? And Edelbrock masters out there.

One thing I noticed is MUCH faster throttle response which I didn't expect but really really like. No studder when you stab it fast and it revs way faster than it used to. This thing honestly is NOTHING like it used to be, and I'm so glad I listened to advice and went ahead with pullin the motor and doing it all thorough and right, it really paid off big time.

I'm no computer genius but I'm working on videos. I have the first three tries that died due to timing. And I have one where I got it dialed close enough and ran it. I also have an idle and rev video after it was all times right with a gun and light. Any body help with video posting?

[68c10owner]

Originally Posted by Mrturner1

Got the pulleys lined up and new belt on. Fired right up and ran it at 2100-2500rpms for another 20 minutes. Then I turned the idle UP to about 3000 rpm and put a timing light on it. It was way about 11 degrees off. Unplugged the vacuum advance on the distributor, and set my timing dial to 36, turned the distributor a bit advanced until I was at 0 on the timing tab and it started running MUCH nicer. No pops, hiccups or backfires now and I re plugged the vacuum advance. Idled down to 850, and it's ABSOLUTELY NASTY. That 280H comp magnum is a beast! The bump in compression made a nice improvement as well.

I'm playing with the 650 AVS carb still. Two screws on the front, left is idle mixture screw correct? What should that be set at? Left screw is what? And Edelbrock masters out there.

One thing I noticed is MUCH faster throttle response which I didn't expect but really really like. No studder when you stab it fast and it revs way faster than it used to. This thing honestly is NOTHING like it used to be, and I'm so glad I listened to advice and went ahead with pullin the motor and doing it all thorough and right, it really paid off big time.

I'm no computer genius but I'm working on videos. I have the first three tries that died due to timing. And I have one where I got it dialed close enough and ran it. I also have an idle and rev video after it was all times right with a gun and light. Any body help with video posting?

You are going to want quite a bit more initial timing. 0 degrees is for stock engines. You will want about 12-16 initial with 36-38 total. You may have to play with the weights and spri gs to get the curve right.

[swamp rat]

Originally Posted by Mrturner1

Got the pulleys lined up and new belt on. Fired right up and ran it at 2100-2500rpms for another 20 minutes. Then I turned the idle UP to about 3000 rpm and put a timing light on it. It was way about 11 degrees off. Unplugged the vacuum advance on the distributor, and set my timing dial to 36, turned the distributor a bit advanced until I was at 0 on the timing tab and it started running MUCH nicer. No pops, hiccups or backfires now and I re plugged the vacuum advance. Idled down to 850, and it's ABSOLUTELY NASTY. That 280H comp magnum is a beast! The bump in compression made a nice improvement as well.

I'm playing with the 650 AVS carb still. Two screws on the front, left is idle mixture screw correct? What should that be set at? Left screw is what? And Edelbrock masters out there.

One thing I noticed is MUCH faster throttle response which I didn't expect but really really like. No studder when you stab it fast and it revs way faster than it used to. This thing honestly is NOTHING like it used to be, and I'm so glad I listened to advice and went ahead with pullin the motor and doing it all thorough and right, it really paid off big time.

I'm no computer genius but I'm working on videos. I have the first three tries that died due to timing. And I have one where I got it dialed close enough and ran it. I also have an idle and rev video after it was all times right with a gun and light. Any body help with video posting?

Both the screws in the front are air fuel adjust screws, one supplies one bank the other supplies the other bank, they should be roughly 2 to 2 1/2 turns out from lightly seated (meaning "lightly" bottomed, then backed out) Idle should be about 700, turn one air fuel screw in slowly until the idle gets a little rough then back it out about 1/4 turn, do the same on the other screw. Thats a good starting point.

I am a bit concerned about your timing tho as mentioned above.

[Valarius_Starchaser]

Congrats on building your first engine man! Now all your friends will come to you with "I have this such and such problem with my so and so car." I have been quietly listening without much to add or say.

One thing I must say is I'm really impressed by how many just jumped in and taught you how to do it right the first time thats what I love about this board everyone just wants to help another guy out simply because we all love these trucks

[Captainfab]

It sounds to me like he set the timing at 36* @ 3000.

Originally Posted by 68c10owner

You are going to want quite a bit more initial timing. 0 degrees is for stock engines. You will want about 12-16 initial with 36-38 total. You may have to play with the weights and spri gs to get the curve right.

Originally Posted by swamp rat

Both the screws in the front are air fuel adjust screws, one supplies one bank the other supplies the other bank, they should be roughly 2 to 2 1/2 turns out from lightly seated (meaning "lightly" bottomed, then backed out) Idle should be about 700, turn one air fuel screw in slowly until the idle gets a little rough then back it out about 1/4 turn, do the same on the other screw. Thats a good starting point.

I am a bit concerned about your timing tho as mentioned above.

[68c10owner]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

It sounds to me like he set the timing at 36* @ 3000.

Yeah but did you read the part where he said he put the timing mark at 0 and it started running better? 0 initial timing will make this thing a dog regardlessof what his timing at 3000 rpms is.

OP, did you do a full rebuild or just a cam and head swap? Not trying to bust your bubble, just trying to follow along. While a cam and head swap is a huge deal for a newbie, and sounds like you were successful, its not technically a rebuild.

[Mrturner1]

Originally Posted by 68c10owner

Yeah but did you read the part where he said he put the timing mark at 0 and it started running better? 0 initial timing will make this thing a dog regardlessof what his timing at 3000 rpms is.

OP, did you do a full rebuild or just a cam and head swap? Not trying to bust your bubble, just trying to follow along. While a cam and head swap is a huge deal for a newbie, and sounds like you were successful, its not technically a rebuild.

Cam lifters and heads

[Mrturner1]

Originally Posted by 68c10owner

Yeah but did you read the part where he said he put the timing mark at 0 and it started running better? 0 initial timing will make this thing a dog regardlessof what his timing at 3000 rpms is.

OP, did you do a full rebuild or just a cam and head swap? Not trying to bust your bubble, just trying to follow along. While a cam and head swap is a huge deal for a newbie, and sounds like you were successful, its not technically a rebuild.

I don't know how to tell what timing is in the distributor

[68c10owner]

Originally Posted by Mrturner1

I don't know how to tell what timing is in the distributor

With the truck idling disconnect the vacuum advance and put the timing light on it. The ti.ing tab will tell you your initial or base timing. You want to advance it so look at the BTC numbers. It will run much better once you get the timing curve dialed in.

[Mrturner1]

Originally Posted by 68c10owner

With the truck idling disconnect the vacuum advance and put the timing light on it. The ti.ing tab will tell you your initial or base timing. You want to advance it so look at the BTC numbers. It will run much better once you get the timing curve dialed in.

How much initial or base do I want? And is initial set with dial on "0"

[68c10owner]

Originally Posted by 68c10owner

You are going to want quite a bit more initial timing. 0 degrees is for stock engines. You will want about 12-16 initial with 36-38 total. You may have to play with the weights and spri gs to get the curve right.

Originally Posted by Mrturner1

How much initial or base do I want? And is initial set with dial on "0"

See my post above

[Mrturner1]

Originally Posted by 68c10owner

See my post above

So is that 12-16 BTDC with the dial on "0"?? I read that the dial should be set at 36 and then get the mark on the balancer to 0 to have 36 total. But I don't know for initial

[Mrturner1]

Originally Posted by 68c10owner

Yeah but did you read the part where he said he put the timing mark at 0 and it started running better? 0 initial timing will make this thing a dog regardlessof what his timing at 3000 rpms is.

OP, did you do a full rebuild or just a cam and head swap? Not trying to bust your bubble, just trying to follow along. While a cam and head swap is a huge deal for a newbie, and sounds like you were successful, its not technically a rebuild.

I put the timing MARK at "0", the dial on the timing gun was at 36. So if the dial is at 36, you want the timing Mark to be at 0 to actually equal 36