Restoring Rusty

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by TKCR

The seat that you showed, the one you took to the shop and they could not get the screws out. That is a non tilt seat, it’s a fixed seat. There’s no way of it tilting forward.

I think you are right, now that I think about it, I think it just slid forward and back maybe 6"

are you saying $350 for a seat or just for shipping, sorry don't mean to be difficult that just sounds amazeballz, and yes shops quoted me $500/$600 for just a vinyl cover but they sow/make it not one that I would buy first

[Gregski]

well, today I tried to get that bolt out, and it took all of 30 seconds, I swear I spent more time sweeping up the drill shavings than actually extracting the bolt

[LT7A]

Gregski: 1 / Ralph's Scott's Unmotivated Upholstery Unlimited: 0

Nice work.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by LT7A

Gregski: 1 / Ralph's Scott's Unmotivated Upholstery Unlimited: 0

Nice work.

ha ha, I'll take that in Sudden Death !!!

[Gregski]

Not Good News ladies and gentlemen, replacing the two shift solenoids on my 4L60e automagic transmission did not get rid of the clunk sound, the transmission shifts fine and I can drive it but there's an annoying clunk as if a metal ball bearing was rolling and hit a metal wall every time it shifts, any ideas on what it could be and how to fix it?

[Rickysnickers]

Greg, try hitting up Clinebarger in the drivetrain area and see if he can give you some help.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Rickysnickers

Greg, try hitting up Clinebarger in the drivetrain area and see if he can give you some help.

thanks, I will, I did come across this:

Bulletin No.: 01-07-30-042E

Date: May 21, 2007

INFORMATION

Subject:

Information on 2-3 Upshift or 3-2 Downshift Clunk Noise
Models:
2008 and Prior Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks
2003-2008 HUMMER H2
2006-2008 HUMMER H3
2005-2008 Saab 9-7X

with 4L60-E, 4L65-E or 4L70-E Automatic Transmission (RPOs M30, M32, M70)

Supercede:

This bulletin is being revised to add the 2008 model year and 4L70E transmissions. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-07-30-042D (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).

For 2005 model year fullsize utilities and pickups, refer to Corporate Bulletin 05-07-30-012.

Some vehicles may exhibit a clunk noise that can be heard on a 2-3 upshift or a 3-2 downshift.

During a 2-3 upshift, the 2-4 band is released and the 3-4 clutch is applied. The timing of this shift can cause a momentary torque reversal of the output shaft that results in a clunk noise. This same torque reversal can also occur on a 3-2 downshift when the 3-4 clutch is released and the 2-4 band applied. This condition may be worse on a 4-wheel drive vehicle due to the additional tolerances in the transfer case.

This is a normal condition. No repairs should be attempted.

[Gregski]

Well since the shifts are not as crisp (mooshy actaully) on this 4.8L/4L60e as they are on my other truck the 5.3L/4L60e I decided I am going to try the famous Corvette servo swap, it's cheap and seams pretty easy

darn it I just don't want to wait a week for AMAZON to ship it

[Gregski]

WE NOW INTERRUPT THIS TRANSMISSION REPAIR TO BRING YOU YET ANOTHER STEEL BRAIDED LINE FAILURE !!!

This is now the third line that has failed on me. And I'm not a smart man but when the low pressure side fuel line fails, we know we have a problem. Last time the high pressure side failed and a transmission line failed which I assumed was the high pressure side as well.

What sucks about this is that it is a return home run to the fuel tank, so we got to drop the tank to R n R it, super!

FYI it actually failed above that hose clamp at what appears to be a gentle swoop and not a pinch or kink or it rubbing on anything, and I am just pointing to the line which has the leak just so I know which one to replace, ha ha

Fun Level = * please see the cuss jar *

[Gregski]

so after fighting with the steel braided lines in an effort to just replace the last 3 feet to avoid dropping the tank I decided to ditch the steel braided hose all together, I never wanted to run steel braided lines to begin with, they are more show than go, and if it's good enough for Holley and their EFI kit it's good enough for me, especially for the low pressure return line

and yes we are using a reinforced fuel injection hose and not just a regular soft rubber fuel line

by the way slipping on AN fitting on to this rubber hose is 7.83 times easier than slicing your thumbs up on the steel braided ones, so there's that

and this is my daily driver so I need to get it out of the garage

[Gregski]

so I go to put the fuel line back on the Summit brand barrel style inline fuel filter (I had to remove it to get to the other line) anyway I get the obligatory gasoline waterfall down my sleeve, so I think what the hewk, and I remove the filter to examine it, and sure enough that flimzy rubber O-ring has failed and the filter now leaks like a sieve

now you know how I feel about aftermarket parts, well I went with this one cause it has 6AN standard male screw on ends unlike the OEM one which is metric female, but I will be going back to the OEM with adapters, shieshs this quick RnR is turning into a Footspagh right quick

and take a look at that "filter" it is a wire mesh the size of a quarter, that's it, that's your filter, can you say Good Bye to your injectors?!

[Gregski]

and this is what a civilized fuel filter looks like, this one happens to be a Product of the USA from AC Delco (lets pause in appreciation for a minute)

some will have an arrow marking the direction of the fuel flow, that is important, some of the aftermarket ones can be installed in either directions but once installed you should not flip them around

if the filters are not marked I noticed the welded end is the outlet side and the nicely curved smooth end is the inlet side

[Gregski]

as mentioned before these AN to Metric adapter doodads are required to plumb the OEM fuel filter and this is where you will spend 73.8 percent of your time whilst carrying out an LS Swap Operation aka LSSO hunting down adapters, converters, and flux capacitors

[hatzie]

That hose says SAE J30R7. That's just plain old fashioned carburetor fuel hose. Same as GM and others used for carbureted fuel systems through the end of the age of the carburetor. Max running pressure is 50 PSI, intermittent operating pressure is 75 PSI for Continental hose but not all hose meets this spec, burst pressure is 250 PSI. That's for NEW hose.
The SAE has actually downrated J30R7 to use as EVAP hose but it's still just fine for lower pressure non-fuel-injected vehicles. I use it on my ATV, Motorcycle, riding mowers, and other small engines that don't use Vinyl hose.

You want an operating envelope cushion to deal with aging. The actual operating pressure envelope can be reduced quite a lot by age especially in higher temperature environments with higher ozone levels like West Coast cities. If your operating pressures are right on the ragged edge of maximum you won't get much life out of it.

SAE J30R9 hose is the stuff you want for TBI and TPI fuel systems. It's rated for higher operating and burst pressures and is less vapor permeable than the old J30R7 hose. It's what GM originally used on the TBI and TPI fuel injection systems before they went to Vinyl fuel lines in the mid 90's.
My first choice in clamps are constant tension spring band clamps that everyone seems to hate. They maintain constant tension over a wide temp range without over tensioning and smashing plastic hose barbs or crushing the hose itself and loosening up like worm clamps seem to do. German Fuel Injection clamps are a close second choice.

If you're an SAE member this is the link to the J30 fuel hose standards. It's some pretty dry reading.
https://www.sae.org/standards/content/j30_199806/

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by hatzie

That hose says SAE J30R7. That's just plain old fashioned carburetor fuel hose. Same as GM and others used for carbureted fuel systems through the end of the age of the carburetor. Max running pressure is 50 PSI, intermittent operating pressure is 75 PSI for Continental hose but not all hose meets this spec, burst pressure is 250 PSI. That's for NEW hose.
The SAE has actually downrated J30R7 to use as EVAP hose but it's still just fine for lower pressure non-fuel-injected vehicles. I use it on my ATV, Motorcycle, riding mowers, and other small engines that don't use Vinyl hose.

You want an operating envelope cushion to deal with aging. The actual operating pressure envelope can be reduced quite a lot by age especially in higher temperature environments with higher ozone levels like West Coast cities. If your operating pressures are right on the ragged edge of maximum you won't get much life out of it.

SAE J30R9 hose is the stuff you want for TBI and TPI fuel systems. It's rated for higher operating and burst pressures and is less vapor permeable than the old J30R7 hose. It's what GM originally used on the TBI and TPI fuel injection systems before they went to Vinyl fuel lines in the mid 90's.
My first choice in clamps are constant tension spring band clamps that everyone seems to hate. They maintain constant tension over a wide temp range without over tensioning and smashing plastic hose barbs or crushing the hose itself and loosening up like worm clamps seem to do. German Fuel Injection clamps are a close second choice.

If you're an SAE member this is the link to the J30 fuel hose standards. It's some pretty dry reading.
https://www.sae.org/standards/content/j30_199806/

Thanks, I am actually running this 30R14T2 on the high pressure side I believe it's rated for 225PSI

[hatzie]

I believe that AC Delco filter uses a special GM Fuel line fittings. The end is straight with a ring crimped into the tube that the ferrule rests against with a shoulder for the O-ring.

This guy shows how to make GM Fuel Line crimps and Jiffy Tite transmission & oil cooler line crimps.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Le3SK_JakG4

[Gregski]

You all won't believe this, so I button everything up and turn the key to prime the fuel pump and I hear a gush of fuel hit the pavement, I'm like Noooo can't be

Yup, a fourth line has failed on me, this time the high pressure hose that runs from the fuel tank to the fuel filter, and I did not touch this line!!!

It is so UNBELIEVABLE I made a video for it, so avoid this AMAZON steel braided hose at all costs

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dwd68TfculU

[hatzie]

SAE J30R14 is the new J30R7. It's an updated low pressure fuel hose spec with the lower vapor permeability of J30R9 and better ethanol breakdown resistance in the spec with the lower operating and burst pressures of the J30R7 hose. Most manufacturers already met or exceeded the ethanol resistance spec in their J30R7 offerings but not the vapor permeability ratings.

The stuff you want on the pressure side is still SAE J30R9.

Gates used to have a comparison tool but I can't find it.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by hatzie

SAE J30R14 is the new J30R7. It's an updated low pressure fuel hose spec with the lower vapor permeability of J30R9 and better ethanol breakdown resistance in the spec with the lower operating and burst pressures of the J30R7 hose. Most manufacturers already met or exceeded the ethanol resistance spec in their J30R7 offerings but not the vapor permeability ratings.

The stuff you want on the pressure side is still SAE J30R9.

Gates used to have a comparison tool but I can't find it.

Are you serious?

[rgunlock]

That is definitely unbelievable! Hate to say it, but if you haven't already I'd replace every last bit of that braided hose on the truck. That could have had a VERY bad ending!

[hatzie]

Sure am.
https://www.underhoodservice.com/cor...-installation/
J30 is the SAE fuel line standard with R numbers for specific types.

• R7 is emissions hose. Used to be low pressure fuel hose but high vapor permeability likely makes it illegal in California for fuel hose.
• R9 is high pressure low permeability Fuel Injection hose
• R10 is high pressure in tank fuel hose. Submersible fuel line for in tank fuel pumps. Don't use this stuff out of the tank as the jacket isn't compounded for operation in air.
• R14 is low pressure low permeability fuel hose. Likely released to deal with tightened air quality standards.

Ignore the comment in that article about using J30R9 fuel hose for oil. J30R9 doesn't have the temperature rating for an oil or transmission cooler. It might work for cold oil but not for an oil or transmission cooler at operating temp. SAE J1019 hose is actually designed for that job.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by hatzie

Sure am.
https://www.underhoodservice.com/cor...-installation/
J30 is the SAE fuel line standard with R numbers for specific types.

• R7 is emissions hose. Used to be low pressure fuel hose but high vapor permeability likely makes it illegal in California for fuel hose.
• R9 is high pressure low permeability Fuel Injection hose
• R10 is high pressure in tank fuel hose. Submersible fuel line for in tank fuel pumps. Don't use this stuff out of the tank as the jacket isn't compounded for operation in air.
• R14 is low pressure low permeability fuel hose. Likely released to deal with tightened air quality standards.

I hear you brother, I just can't find any J30R9 locally they all point at the R14 just like the dude at the NAPA counter sold me and I told him what I was doing and I wanted the high pressure stuff

[hatzie]

Yeah. That's one of the reasons I educate myself before getting stuff from the parts guys.
They mean well but they'll also offer you fuel hose for transmission coolers and regular fuel hose for in tank fuel pumps.

You might want to get the spec sheet for the exact hose you have. Manufacturers can and often do exceed minimum specs.

[Gregski]

so I wrote to the seller on Amazon since I bought three hoses from them over the last two years, and I sent them pics of my hose failures and the link to this video, I was not rude, I was honestly concerned for other peoples safety, and they kindly replied and promised a full refund

[Rich84]

"Hope nobody hurts"..

I used junkyard factory hard lines with a small piece of rubber at the sender with double FI clamps.