Restoring Rusty

[Gregski]

ladies and gentlement... The Digital Cambermatic 3000

[Gregski]

and here it is in action

Driver side has 1.20° of Negative Camber which is OK(ish)

Texter side has 2.10° of Negative Camber which is Too Much

however now at least we know in degrees how much out of whack we are

Note: I believe back in the day the Manuals for these 60s and 70s vehicles read something like +1° or -1° of camber was acceptable, which is redunculous, you go ahead and set your driver side wheel to -1° and your passenger side to +1° and I'll meet you at the telephone pole

[Gregski]

so it was time to bust out the shims, and when it comes to Camber, don't over think things, first if you struggle with remembering which is Negative camber and which is Positive camber, just remember In and Out as in the top of the wheels lean In or the top of the wheels lean Out

and just use the alphabet trick

N in Negative comes before P in Positive just as I in In comes before O in Out

You're welcome

[Gregski]

remember we are focusing just on the passenger side, so here is what the current shimming situation looks like

and if all you are doing is addressing the Camber then always add or remove the same amount of shims to both the front and the back of the upper control arm

Note: there are more shims in the back of the upper control arm that is to set Positive Caster a topic for another day

[Gregski]

some shims come with a little hole in them mine did not, now they do

this makes it zip tie friendly and keeps the profanity down to a minimum

[Gregski]

mandatory stare and compare of the ol' analog Cambermatic 300 and the new and improved digital Cambermatic 3000 shown with the Pro Plus option second magnetic level attachment used to ensure verticability

[Gregski]

so adding two shims to front and back of the upper control arm got me in the OK(ish) ballpark with the same negative camber on both sides, I may revisit both sides after some shake down driving and see if I can get them both slightly under -1°

[4u2nv]

Originally Posted by Gregski

so adding two shims to front and back of the upper control arm got me in the OK(ish) ballpark with the same negative camber on both sides, I may revisit both sides after some shake down driving and see if I can get them both slightly under -1°

I like your method .

[Gregski]

it's that time of year again...

Annual Seat Sale!

[Wgesnerjr]

Oooh!

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Wgesnerjr

Oooh!

You mean Oooh! Oooh! Oooh!

[Wgesnerjr]

You're right!!

I cant wait for a Gregski install write up on these!!

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Wgesnerjr

You're right!!

I cant wait for a Gregski install write up on these!!

probly not what you had in mind, but her you go...

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...&postcount=525

[LT7A]

"you go ahead and set your driver side wheel to -1° and your passenger side to +1° and I'll meet you at the telephone pole"

Hahaha, good call. I like the tool you made and your process. Is Rusty getting some new shoes? I couldn't help but notice some white raised letters - well, blue at the moment.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by LT7A

"you go ahead and set your driver side wheel to -1° and your passenger side to +1° and I'll meet you at the telephone pole"

Hahaha, good call. I like the tool you made and your process. Is Rusty getting some new shoes? I couldn't help but notice some white raised letters - well, blue at the moment.

Rusty recently got sum, so I'm adjusting the camber to see if I can get more than 10,000 miles out of these, ha ha jk

the blue high heels in the pic were from my '54 they came off the front cause they were to wide at 245 micronmeters so I went with 215s

[texxxan]

Someone has been quite busy lately.

[Schroedum]

Originally Posted by Gregski

You mean Oooh! Oooh! Oooh!

[Gregski]

Finally it was time to replace them shift solenoids

[texxxan]

Originally Posted by Gregski

Finally it was time to replace them shift solenoids

Don't forget the obligatory stare and compare.

[hatzie]

Make sure the internal harness isn't leaking fluid around the pins through the connector.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by hatzie

Make sure the internal harness isn't leaking fluid around the pins through the connector.

you talking about the big round shower head style one?

[Gregski]

so this is where the solenoids live, I know it's upside down, but better than nothing

the one on the left (driver side) is the 1-2 and the one on the right (passenger side) is the 2-3

but they are both identical same part number

[Gregski]

yes this transmission has a drain plug and yes the P.O. (pronounced: "guy who had it before me") tightened it as hard as she could plus a quarter turn, and stripped the head of the bolt so that I had no chance of getting it out

but since this was my first gear box with a drain plug I was determined to have one that works, even if it took me 3.5 hours to get it out

[Gregski]

so the first test I did (right or wrong) was the Click Test, basically you hook up a solenoid to a car battery and listen to see if it clicks

the 1-2 solenoid had a loud(er) click than the 2-3 one so I think that's the one we are trying to replace

[Gregski]

the second test and the more official one was the Horse Shoe Test

this is where we put our Multimeter on the horse shoe icon and check for The Reistance

the 1-2 solenoid measured at 23.1 ohms

the 2-3 solenoid measured at 23.3 ohms

both seemed within range, remember if you know nothing but have two of something, compare them

then here's how the new ones tested

the new 1-2 solenoid measured 25.6 ohms

the new 2-3 solenoid measured 27.7 ohms