Restoring Rusty

[Gregski]

Fun Level = 0

[Gregski]

so before I went to NAPA I did my homework, I literally ran my vehicle identification number through the GM VIN Decoder and I pranced in there saying I have a

2001 GMC Sierra 1500 2WD Regular Cab, Two Door, Standard Bed, Rear Wheel Drive, 4.8L V8 4L60e automatic transmission... and I need a shift solenoid for it

The woman across the counter clicked and double clicked for a few seconds then looked up at me and I kid you not with a straight face asked me: "16 or 17 bolt oil pan?"

WHAT ??? You have got to be kidding me

well I took a pic of my oil pan, but I left my phone at home, can you believe that, so I tucked my tail between my legs and bolted home to count the holes, and get my phone, and I still managed to get the wrong filter from them, it was half as thin as mine

[Gregski]

so off I went to Oh Reallys, where I picked up a thicker filter and a rubber gasket kit instead of the cork one

[hatzie]

Originally Posted by Gregski

you talking about the big round shower head style one?

Yep, That's the one. They leak around the pins, not around the outside of the connector body, and the signals to the goodies inside get dodgy.
The 4L80E, 4L60E, 4L65E, ... all do it.

The other fun fact is the refrigerator magnet that GM installed in the transmission pans of a lot of their 1980's to 2009ish transmissions were not rated for the operating temps of the fluid. When you run magnets beyond their operational temp range they loose magnetic field strength and a part of the field strength goes away permanently. The field damage is cumulative. The fix is to use the round filter magnets from the Saturn and Allison 1,000 transmissions that were rated for 350°F or some high temp rare earth magnets in place of that fridge magnet in the pan.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by hatzie

Yep, That's the one. They leak around the pins, not around the outside of the connector body, and the signals to the goodies inside get dodgy.
The 4L80E, 4L60E, 4L65E, ... all do it.

The other fun fact is the refrigerator magnet that GM installed in the transmission pans of a lot of their 1980's to 2009ish transmissions were not rated for the operating temps of the fluid. When you run magnets beyond their operational temp range they loose magnetic field strength and a part of the field strength goes away permanently. The field damage is cumulative. The fix is to use the round filter magnets from the Saturn and Allison 1,000 transmissions that were rated for 350°F or some high temp rare earth magnets in place of that fridge magnet in the pan.

Hatzie you know too much, fortunately I know nothing so we cancel each other out. My fridge magnet seemed to be clicking on to shavings still so that's a good sign, LOL !

[hatzie]

Originally Posted by Gregski

Hatzie you know too much, fortunately I know nothing so we cancel each other out. My fridge magnet seemed to be clicking on to shavings still so that's a good sign, LOL !

The only reason I know about the frige magnets is GM quietly released a service bulletin for the fragile 4T65E-HD in my LS4 Impala.
Among the transmissions listed besides my 4T65E is the 4L80E, 4L60E, & 4L65E.
I read some about what happens to magnets when they are run at temps just slightly beyond their happy zone. I knew about completely demagnetizing a magnet by heating to straw color but I was unaware of how bad it was to repeatedly run them at slightly elevated temps.

They'll still gather iron filings but eventually they weaken to the point where the pan magnet field strength is eclipsed by the field strength of the electromagnet coils in the control solenoids.
As the field strength of the pan magnet decreases the loose iron filings will gather on the control solenoids.
When you add iron filings to an electromagnet the field strength increases in an uncontrolled and unpredictable manner. Similar to modifying the iron winding core of a transformer with an angle grinder. Basic High School Physics.
The TCM or PCM is programmed to vary the current flow to the solenoid coils, and thus the magnetic field of the solenoid coils, based on a solenoid that hasn't been modified (poisoned) by additional iron. When you poison the solenoids in this manner you get erratic operation because the additional iron keeps the field from pushing the iron plungers at the same rate as a fresh solenoid.
Eventually the TCM or PCM will get upset about it. Well before the controller notices and gets upset you get accelerated clutch wear, additional heat from the loosey goosey clutch engagements, and sometimes shock damage to things like the sun shell and the sprags from the erratic clutch engagement.

This all is one of the reasons I run an inline Magnefine filter in my transmission cooler return line. The magnet is properly specced for the operating temps and the additional 25 micron paper filter element doesn't hurt anything. They have a bypass function to make up for a plugged paper filter element. I can change the filter when I change my engine oil and filter. With the drain plug in the transmission pan there's no reason to drop the pan since the inline filter is 25 microns. The pickup strainer screen that filters at 100+ microns will never see enough crud to plug up.

[LT7A]

"Horseshoe icon" and "prancing" gave me the laughs I needed today. Thanks.

[truckin 79]

I feel bad you have these problems with the truck but really enjoy learning a lot from this thread.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by truckin 79

I feel bad you have these problems with the truck but really enjoy learning a lot from this thread.

Thanks Mate, don't get me wrong it is a solid truck but yeah there were some unnecessary hick ups along the way, like going through a bunch of junk brand new plastic radiators, and now these brand new steel braided hoses causing me grief, but we will get it fingered out. Basically the after market sucks!!!

[eric8]

Originally Posted by Gregski

I told you we will have one....

the rubber radiator hold down thingies did not quite fit, so we improvised

Just curious, but did you have to improvise with these because the Northern radiator wouldn't fit in the stock rubber mounts in the core support?

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by eric8

Just curious, but did you have to improvise with these because the Northern radiator wouldn't fit in the stock rubber mounts in the core support?

which Post # are you referring to bud, I don't know exactly where to look?

[eric8]

Originally Posted by Gregski

which Post # are you referring to bud, I don't know exactly where to look?

It was near post 4983 where you put in the new radiator. It looked like you had some improvised rubber mounts. Was just curious if it was a true direct fit radiator, and how it is holding up?

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by eric8

It was near post 4983 where you put in the new radiator. It looked like you had some improvised rubber mounts. Was just curious if it was a true direct fit radiator, and how it is holding up?

Thanks, that helps jug the memory, wish I had some good news for you and I know you asked about the mounts, but check this out first So this $273 Northern aluminum radiator I bought on Amazon exactly 1 year ago just made it one year and sprung a leak. So a leak after 10,000 miles, lame

[eric8]

Originally Posted by Gregski

Thanks, that helps jug the memory, wish I had some good news for you and I know you asked about the mounts, but check this out first So this $273 Northern aluminum radiator I bought on Amazon exactly 1 year ago just made it one year and sprung a leak. So a leak after 10,000 miles, lame

Thanks for the info. So I assume the el cheapo "Radcool" radiator with the plastic end tanks is still holding up?

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by eric8

Thanks for the info. So I assume the el cheapo "Radcool" radiator with the plastic end tanks is still holding up?

ha ha, Negative Ghost Rider, please see this post and a couple after not funny !!!

[eric8]

Originally Posted by Gregski

ha ha, Negative Ghost Rider, please see this post and a couple after not funny !!!

Wow that is ridiculous. I need a new radiator and I seriously don't know where to turn. And I just noticed your Napa box has the same "161" in the part number as your Radcool. So it wouldn't surprise me if they're the exact same thing.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by eric8

Wow that is ridiculous. I need a new radiator and I seriously don't know where to turn. And I just noticed your Napa box has the same "161" in the part number as your Radcool. So it wouldn't surprise me if they're the exact same thing.

this is why I document things in this thread to help people out and to help me remember this roller coaster I am on, cause sometimes I go man how long ago did I but this part, was it 5 years ago, or 4... and then I go wait what? I just bought it less than a year ago

[Gregski]

so a couple months back I took this bench seat to an upholsterer, and they had it for six weeks and did not do a darn thing all because they could not get one bolt out to separate the back rest from the bottom

[Gregski]

well, today I tried to get that bolt out, and it took all of 30 seconds, I swear I spent more time sweeping up the drill shavings than actually extracting the bolt

[LT7A]

Gregski: 1 / Ralph's Scott's Unmotivated Upholstery Unlimited: 0

Nice work.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by LT7A

Gregski: 1 / Ralph's Scott's Unmotivated Upholstery Unlimited: 0

Nice work.

ha ha, I'll take that in Sudden Death !!!

[Gregski]

Not Good News ladies and gentlemen, replacing the two shift solenoids on my 4L60e automagic transmission did not get rid of the clunk sound, the transmission shifts fine and I can drive it but there's an annoying clunk as if a metal ball bearing was rolling and hit a metal wall every time it shifts, any ideas on what it could be and how to fix it?

[Rickysnickers]

Greg, try hitting up Clinebarger in the drivetrain area and see if he can give you some help.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Rickysnickers

Greg, try hitting up Clinebarger in the drivetrain area and see if he can give you some help.

thanks, I will, I did come across this:

Bulletin No.: 01-07-30-042E

Date: May 21, 2007

INFORMATION

Subject:

Information on 2-3 Upshift or 3-2 Downshift Clunk Noise
Models:
2008 and Prior Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks
2003-2008 HUMMER H2
2006-2008 HUMMER H3
2005-2008 Saab 9-7X

with 4L60-E, 4L65-E or 4L70-E Automatic Transmission (RPOs M30, M32, M70)

Supercede:

This bulletin is being revised to add the 2008 model year and 4L70E transmissions. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-07-30-042D (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).

For 2005 model year fullsize utilities and pickups, refer to Corporate Bulletin 05-07-30-012.

Some vehicles may exhibit a clunk noise that can be heard on a 2-3 upshift or a 3-2 downshift.

During a 2-3 upshift, the 2-4 band is released and the 3-4 clutch is applied. The timing of this shift can cause a momentary torque reversal of the output shaft that results in a clunk noise. This same torque reversal can also occur on a 3-2 downshift when the 3-4 clutch is released and the 2-4 band applied. This condition may be worse on a 4-wheel drive vehicle due to the additional tolerances in the transfer case.

This is a normal condition. No repairs should be attempted.

[Gregski]

Well since the shifts are not as crisp (mooshy actaully) on this 4.8L/4L60e as they are on my other truck the 5.3L/4L60e I decided I am going to try the famous Corvette servo swap, it's cheap and seams pretty easy

darn it I just don't want to wait a week for AMAZON to ship it