Project Vitamin C-10

[Strodder]

What's the hammer for ?? I don't think you should use it to get the T-Signal switch out.

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by Strodder

What's the hammer for ?? I don't think you should use it to get the T-Signal switch out.

It's a special tool.

[kizer]

In my garage I have a 10lb sledge I call the calibrator. Actually it might weigh a little more, but when I hit things with it they normally move.

[Strodder]

Originally Posted by Alan's Classic

It's a special tool.

Is it a 2 handed hammer? You might have to use it tho put it all back together.

[kizer]

Alan just saw your first instructional video. We need more. Actually I need more.

[Strodder]

Originally Posted by kizer

Alan just saw your first instructional video. We need more. Actually I need more.

It's called "It's Hammer Time"

Just kidding Allan. Your doing a great job.

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by Strodder

It's called "It's Hammer Time"

Just kidding Allan. Your doing a great job.

I like that title. I'm wanting to make a DVD and sell it for a nominal fee. I've talked to sdailey to be my camera guy and audiance to ask questions. It will cover tips and tricks of doing mud work. I really don't know how much interest there would be. At times I think there is alot of people that would be interested from the novice to the experienced. Because I learn everytime I work with filler. The video will help the novice from getting frustrated and save materials which saves money. I remember how frustrated I got when I first started, then one it just clicked. I constantly watch others at work and take different things from each of them and incorporate it into the way I do things.

[joe231]

I say do it, I need lessons

[neto]

Allen how do you like using "slick sand" and what size tip do you use?
Ernest

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by joe231

I say do it, I need lessons

Are you sure you trust what I have to say? Unlike paint I've got alot of experience slingin' mud.

Originally Posted by neto

Allen how do you like using "slick sand" and what size tip do you use?
Ernest

With my limited experience with it, I'd buy it again. Need a 2.0 tip even then I reduced it some so it would lay down better. It was 50 degrees in the shop so that didn't help matters any. Don't go by what I do make sure to read the cans directions and adapt accordingly to suite your needs. I feel bad for the advice I gave Joe about DP90. So I'm kind of scared to give any more advice on paint materials. In a nutshell I'm very pleased with Slick sand.

[neto]

Well Allen that's what we are here for to learn and get questions answered from those that use the products. It doesn't matter to me if I mess up because you recommended something. All I know is that you will tell us if you like the product and how you used it. So thank you so much. By the way I just keep going back to your build for information.
Thanks again, great build
Ernest

[kizer]

Alan I'd pay for it. Heck throw up a weekly blog sharing tips I'd watch it. The best part it would be from a truck guy who knows hes stuff. I used to watch trucks, but since they are more about making the sponsors happy than actually teaching anymore I threw in the towl.

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by neto

Well Allen that's what we are here for to learn and get questions answered from those that use the products. It doesn't matter to me if I mess up because you recommended something. All I know is that you will tell us if you like the product and how you used it. So thank you so much. By the way I just keep going back to your build for information.
Thanks again, great build
Ernest

Originally Posted by kizer

Alan I'd pay for it. Heck throw up a weekly blog sharing tips I'd watch it. The best part it would be from a truck guy who knows hes stuff. I used to watch trucks, but since they are more about making the sponsors happy than actually teaching anymore I threw in the towl.

I would just film it myself but it kind of boring shooting with a stationary camera. There is no remote for the camera so I'd have to edit me turning the camera on and off. So if I get my wife or sdailey to film and ask questions that might help and get your questions answered. I had a call into 3M to supply some stuff, but they never followed thru with it. I'll just put tape over their's and anyone elses logo. I don't know a thing about getting a copywrite except to contact an attorney which cost $$.

I was wondering what it would be worth to have about 45 minute DVD with nothing but tips and techniques? Think of the time and materials you could save not to mention the frustration. I need some way to fund my build.

Went out and got the headlight mount panel hung and most bolts started. It's the OE mount panel and after market (AM) fenders and core support. It was pretty aggrevating. When I take it back apart I will enlarge some of the holes.

[joe231]

Originally Posted by Alan's Classic

Are you sure you trust what I have to say? Unlike paint I've got alot of experience slingin' mud.



With my limited experience with it, I'd buy it again. Need a 2.0 tip even then I reduced it some so it would lay down better. It was 50 degrees in the shop so that didn't help matters any. Don't go by what I do make sure to read the cans directions and adapt accordingly to suite your needs. I feel bad for the advice I gave Joe about DP90. So I'm kind of scared to give any more advice on paint materials. In a nutshell I'm very pleased with Slick sand.

don't feel bad....i don't think you gave me any bad advice, just what you experienced...it all worked out.
i think we may have put it on too thick, it was a learning experience and I appreciate your help!

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by joe231

don't feel bad....i don't think you gave me any bad advice, just what you experienced...it all worked out.
i think we may have put it on too thick, it was a learning experience and I appreciate your help!

Thanks Joe

I was going back thru my pix I posted and noticed and thought it might look cleaner to weld up the joint in the fender to make it flow better into the mount panel. What do ya'll think?

[joe231]

would look slicker, but man......it's all ready painted.........

[jonzcustomshop]

I would weld it up!
I ran into all sorts of alignment issues with my oe fenders and support...
another Idea.. when you get to the hood, weld up the seams on the front of that too.

BTW are you going to paint the grille surround black with the white stripe , like the factory did?

[aggie91]

Originally Posted by Alan's Classic

Thanks Joe

I was going back thru my pix I posted and noticed and thought it might look cleaner to weld up the joint in the fender to make it flow better into the mount panel. What do ya'll think?

Alan, your doing a great job on your truck. I am truly jealous of your skills.

I did the mod your asking about to mine back in the early 90's. It turned out slick. One note about it...The grill support panel has a body line along the lower part that lines up with that seam int he fender. If you weld up the seam, then you will need to do something with that body line so that it "flows" together correctly. I almost welded my fenders to the grill support panel for a smooth look, but my father suggested that I don't in case of a fender bender...for once I listened to him and he was right. Six months later I was fixing the passenger fender because of some old lady in a parking lot...

I too am learning just from you thread. Keep it coming...

[Strodder]

I also agree that you shouldn't weld up those seams. It will look good but might not be practical. The hood seams sounds like a good idea though.

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by joe231

would look slicker, but man......it's all ready painted.........

I'm planning on repainting the fenders anyway cause I'm not happy with them. Yeah it's another project that will slow me down even more, but I think I will be happier. I've already welded up one bedside seam and plan on welding up the hood as well.

Originally Posted by jonzcustomshop

I would weld it up!
I ran into all sorts of alignment issues with my oe fenders and support...
another Idea.. when you get to the hood, weld up the seams on the front of that too.

BTW are you going to paint the grille surround black with the white stripe , like the factory did?

thanks Jon, I am plannign on painting the headlight mount panel and grill orange. The bumper will be the same color as the frame. I don't want any chrome anywhere.

Originally Posted by aggie91

Alan, your doing a great job on your truck. I am truly jealous of your skills.

I did the mod your asking about to mine back in the early 90's. It turned out slick. One note about it...The grill support panel has a body line along the lower part that lines up with that seam int he fender. If you weld up the seam, then you will need to do something with that body line so that it "flows" together correctly. I almost welded my fenders to the grill support panel for a smooth look, but my father suggested that I don't in case of a fender bender...for once I listened to him and he was right. Six months later I was fixing the passenger fender because of some old lady in a parking lot...

I too am learning just from you thread. Keep it coming...

Thanks for the advice. That had to suck getting hit. Thanks for the comments.

OK, I'm drivin' myself crazy with the steering columns. As ya'll well know It will cost $85 to repair the van column. I have the first tilt column still that I used to align my dash. That is why the van tilt has such a big gap between the column and dash. The first column has a fatter shroud around it. I don't know what it came out of. I'm thinking something like a 80's truck. It has a number on it if it matters "7DS7827313" I haven't researched it yet, but I need to know how it goes back together. I've got a bucket full of washers, clips etc. I also have to remove the hole for the lock cylinder and the mechanism that locks the steering column. Who knows what other problems I will run into if I use this column.

Here is the difference in the columns. The van column is orange



The lock cylinder hole that needs to be filled



I believe I need to remove this wheel lock mechanism cause there won't be a lock cylinder to actuate it to release the steering wheel. Is this right?



Also test fit the upper panels on the radiator support. Both lined up good.

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by Strodder

I also agree that you shouldn't weld up those seams. It will look good but might not be practical. The hood seams sounds like a good idea though.

I'm not sure if we are on the same page. I'm just talking about welding the seam in the fender. I'm not welding the fender to the mount panel. That would be very unpractical (sp).

[Strodder]

I guess I was not paying attention.

[4dranch]

Looking sharp Alan. I want to ask a question, what is the hole for on the right radiator support, is it for the radiator overflow tube? thats where mine runs to.

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by 4dranch

Looking sharp Alan. I want to ask a question, what is the hole for on the right radiator support, is it for the radiator overflow tube? thats where mine runs to.

Thanks David. I don't know for sure this is the only pic I have that is remotely close to showing it. It kind of looks like what you said.

[collins10672]

i know it would be very impractical to do to a brand new fender,but i have heard that some people don't like the fitting of the repro fenders at the front where they mount to the grille panel and they have drilled out the spot welds at the front and replaced it with the piece from the original fender to get that factory look.i have no problem with the repro fenders except that i dont like the little area up front at the corner where the little gap is.could have made it correct to begin with.also alan are you using the new repro doors or going with original ones?if you are not using the new ones are they not exact reproductions?thanks alot.truck is looking nice man..............