Glock's new project: "Fred" w/ 5.3L LS swap info

[Driveway Dreams]

Dang that is funny!!!!!
Bob, maybe you can just wire mine all up for me? I hate electrical. We can work that in to our trade of services.

[glock35ipsc]

Originally Posted by Driveway Dreams

Dang that is funny!!!!!
Bob, maybe you can just wire mine all up for me? I hate electrical. We can work that in to our trade of services.

Consider it done!

[Driveway Dreams]

Nice!

[Driveway Dreams]

Originally Posted by glock35ipsc

..."The government had a program that gave you cash for your old cars. I made $5 billion dollars!!"

, love Leno!!

That, by the way, is signature material.

[JohnC]

It's coming along nicely Bob. You'll have that done by the meet for sure.

[glock35ipsc]

As long as I don't run into any electronic gremlins, I should be good to go!

Oh, and here is the revamped quad light wiring diagram:



Relay terminal 30: 12v from battery
Relay terminal 85: To ground
Relay terminal 86: Signal wire from dimmer switch (low or high beam wire)
Relay terminal 87: To headlights

[joe231]

aw, what mine wasn't good enough?

j/k

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by glock35ipsc

LOL, thanks, but I need to redraw it. I came up with an easier way!

OK, here are some more pics. First is the temp sending unit adapter. It's polished aluminum. And I'm a little nervous. I think I may have overtightened it as it felt like it might have stripped. I would like to think that if something striped out, it would be the adapter and not the head. I guess I'll find out when I get it running.

If you did strip out the head just tap the hole for a standard pipe thread size like 3/8" or 1/4" to match the sender and thread the sender right into the head.

If there is no room to thread it right in just use one of the common step up adapters that comes with most gauges to get the sender up off the surface and out of the way.

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by glock35ipsc

What application does that upper radiator hose come from?

[glock35ipsc]

Originally Posted by joe231

aw, what mine wasn't good enough?

j/k

Hehe, you should know me better by now!

Originally Posted by 68 TT

What application does that upper radiator hose come from?

It was the one on the engine when I got it, 2006 Silverado 5.3L 2wd ECSB.

Originally Posted by 68 TT

If you did strip out the head just tap the hole for a standard pipe thread size like 3/8" or 1/4" to match the sender and thread the sender right into the head.

If there is no room to thread it right in just use one of the common step up adapters that comes with most gauges to get the sender up off the surface and out of the way.

I sat on the couch last night mulling over this, so I finally threw on some shoes and went back out to the shop. I removed the adapter/sending unit, and threaded the OEM plug back in to the head. It tightened firmly to the head, so I am confident it's not the threads in the head now. The adapter is REALLY light, so I'm not so sure it's made from a high grade aluminum. I put a couple extra wraps of teflon tape on the adapter's threads and put it back in. I just snugged it to the head, so I'll just keep an eye on it on I get it running to see if it's leaking. I'd rather buy another/different adapter any day that have to remove the head to repair or tap it.

Lesson learned! This was not one of the things I thought about when doing this swap, the temp gauge sending unit. Next time, I WILL tap the head and install it directly.

PS - yes, there is another LS swap in my future.

[glock35ipsc]

Gas tanks - "OUT FOR DELIVERY"

AN fittings for tranny cooler - "OUT FOR DELIVERY"

[joe231]

[nlped]

[glock35ipsc]

[glock35ipsc]

Saw this on LS1tech.com, it's in a 69, very similar to the 73-87 in this area. Make me a little nervous. Am I wrong?

[nlped]

^^^ That's a pretty large chunk of frame missing. Especially since it has gotten so close to the curve (actually looks to be beyond the start of the curve) which would significantly reduce the structural integrity of the frame. I wouldn't do it without some additional bracing in that area. Just my .02

[glock35ipsc]

My biggest concern with this area is the proximity to the idler arm. It bolts to the frame about 2" away.

[STOCKISH]

It's coming along nicely. Very nice looking work. Good Job!

[JohnC]

Yeah that would make me nervous too. I would head back to the thinking tank like you are doing for the a/c

[joe231]

Wouldn't be an issue with triangulation and some gussets....IMO

[glock35ipsc]

Oh I agree, but the way the fittings shoot up outta there it would be difficult to do that correctly. That is, using the 06's hoses and splice them into the 85's hoses. I wonder though about reinforcing that area by welding some plate around the notch, something heavier than the frame like 3/16" or 1/4" plate on top and on the side?

Now, buying blocks and using 90° threaded fittings would probably allow that area to be raised, boxed on one side, and gusseted.

[nlped]

I have no doubt you will figure it out while making it even better than it was before. Hhhmmm, remembering a TV show from my youth...could this be the 6 million dollar truck

[glock35ipsc]

Gentlemen, we can rebuild him. We have the technology. We have the capability to build the world's first bionic truck. Fred will be that truck. We can make him better than he was before. Better, stronger, faster.

[menace121978]

that should be your sig.

where's the new pics of all the wiring tucked away in looms? i need my fix!!

and those last pics look like alot had to be notched out of that frame. it does look like he reinforced it unless im seeing things. just by the way our frame is prone to crack by the steering box i'd be hesitant on cutting that much out. heck i dont even want to notch mine in the rear!

another thing is i'm not sure how much pressure that idler arm shaft takes but i'm pretty sure the bolts were only 3/8" but i'll have to double check that... i'm just suprised there isnt a kit or something that adapts to the compressor to point the hoses straight up.

[glock35ipsc]

Originally Posted by menace121978

that should be your sig.

where's the new pics of all the wiring tucked away in looms? i need my fix!!

Tonight!!

and those last pics look like alot had to be notched out of that frame. it does look like he reinforced it unless im seeing things. just by the way our frame is prone to crack by the steering box i'd be hesitant on cutting that much out. heck i dont even want to notch mine in the rear!

I can't tell, but I'm not seeing anything that would make me think it's reinforced in any way.

another thing is i'm not sure how much pressure that idler arm shaft takes but i'm pretty sure the bolts were only 3/8" but i'll have to double check that... i'm just suprised there isnt a kit or something that adapts to the compressor to point the hoses straight up.

As a whole, a lot, right at that part of the frame. The steering gear and the idler arm take a pounding when you hit a bump, pot hole, curb, high speed cornering, etc. There is a ton of lateral force being put on those spots. Go out in your garage and imagine kicking one of your front tires as hard as you can in front of the spindle, and picture where all that force is being transferred to.

There are adapters, but they are worse than the OEM hoses. First there is o-ring the block that mounts to the compressor. THEN the hose fitting screws into that block. So by the time you add those two pieces, the 90° bend doesn't occur for a good 2.5" to 3" away from the compressor. That puts them well beyond the top frame rail.

Compressor adapters:



And the 90° fittings:



You would think someone like Street & Performance should be making a "pancake style" block with threaded fittings coming off the side instead of the top. THAT would solve everything!

I'm going to try and fit that thing in there again. I think I can clearance the back side of the bracket enough to make room for the trans cooler lines. I gotta make this work! I know I can!

I wish I had a spare frame and a block to play with........