Lost My 65

[jdl71]

Can't help with the vibration, but I think it looks good. I like the rake.

[LostMy65]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

Yeah #3 is how it should be. Have you checked your tires for separating plies? I have had tires start to separate, causing a vibration at certain speeds.

I have 4 stock 79 chevy 6-lug wheels that I'll try on next week to see if that changes the vibration.

[LostMy65]

Originally Posted by jdl71

Can't help with the vibration, but I think it looks good. I like the rake.

Thank you.

[lowbuck]

The pinion and tail shaft have to be at the same angle. Check them with a digital angle finder. Or you can down load an app for your smart phone if you have one. If you pinion shaft is at 3 degrees you tail shaft has to match at 3 degrees.

[LostMy65]

I did use a Johnson Angle Finder.
I didn't think of using an app for my phone - good idea.

[LostMy65]

Just downloaded the app.
I wish I would have thought of that sooner.
Good suggestion. Thanks

[LostMy65]

Saving this for future reference for my wipers:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...93#post4365093

[LostMy65]

Originally Posted by Bomp

Thats interesting.
Wonder what caused the shoes to split like that.
defective brand? heat? age?
Thanks for showing.

I got the axle from a guy I helped on a project.
It came off a truck he was driving daily until he wrecked it.

[step65]

I like the app idea. I will get to confirm angles on mine. I thought if I had the top of manifold level I would be close as the manifold has the angle set to level the carb. Curious to see how you resolve this. Wished I could help truck looks good.

[LostMy65]

Alright, so I used the phone app. I laid it across the carburetor and got 2.2 degrees. Slapped it against the rear axle and got 2.2 degrees. Well, actually I used the setting in the app to rotate the angle finder 90 degrees so I could get the perpendicular angle.
The flat section of the axle where the cover mounts is perfectly perpendicular to the top of the carburetor.
.
Next I used a technique I found on the Internet to check if your driveline is out of balance. You jack the back wheels off the ground, start it, put it in gear, and Rev it up until you feel the vibration. Then while it's at that rpm, take a marker taped to a stick and slowly raise the marker until it barely ticks the driveline. Do it at both ends and the middle. Well, I'm pretty sure I found where the vibration is occurring. It's up by the yoke. I did a few marks up at the front and they all hit in the same place. So I shut it down and crawled underneath to inspect. While turning the driveline by hand, I noticed some slop where the yoke slips inside the transmission.
.
Now my question is:
Should the yoke be snug in the transmission?
I'm guessing it should. I think the next thing I'm going to check is find another yoke and see if it has the same slop to it.
Any other ideas or suggestions?

[66-PMD-GMC]

You are aware that the carburetor is not parallel to the crank right?

[LostMy65]

Originally Posted by 66-PMD-GMC

You are aware that the carburetor is not parallel to the crank right?

No I was not.
Originally I measured the transmission angle by setting the angle finder on the fluid pan bolts.
There I got 4 degrees.
I did find this thread on the yoke slop :

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=629561

[step65]

I thought the top of carb should be level because the manifold has a 2 or 3 degree correction to make it level. So your reading of 4 degrees at the trans I would think is more accurate. I can move my yoke in front a little but not much.

[LostMy65]

Originally Posted by LostMy65

... Clip..
.
Next I used a technique I found on the Internet to check if your driveline is out of balance. You jack the back wheels off the ground, start it, put it in gear, and Rev it up until you feel the vibration. Then while it's at that rpm, take a marker taped to a stick and slowly raise the marker until it barely ticks the driveline. Do it at both ends and the middle.

I did this.
Down near the pinion, I got a nice straight line all the way around.
Up by the transmission I only got about a 2" long mark. About 1/4 of the whole circumference of the driveline.
The mark denotes the heavy side.
So I mounted two hose clamps on the opposite side of the mark.
Took it for a spin. Drove it around varying my speed.
A definite change for the better. So much so, I'm not sure if there's still an itsy bitsy vibration, or it just the rough roads.
I still plan on taking it to a shop to have it balanced, I just wanted to personally tag down that it was the driveline.
Next I'll move on to installing a front sway bar.
Then perhaps power drum brakes. Discs are still a ways down my 'To Do' list.
Thanks everyone for the help.

[LostMy65]

Yep, drove it around some more this weekend. Vibration is gone.
Mocked up the sway bar.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...93#post7520493

[lowbuck]

The new drive shaft that you purchased wasn't balanced correctly?

[LostMy65]

Originally Posted by lowbuck

The new drive shaft that you purchased wasn't balanced correctly?

I determined the length I needed by using a 6" yoke I had.
I'm new to some of this, so I didn't know there was different yoke lengths.
The driveline they sent me came with a 4" yoke, so I had to swap the 4" one out for the 6" one I had. I'm thinking the driveline would have been fine with the yoke it came with.

[likaroc13]

Glad you got it sorted out!

[LostMy65]

Small update...
.
I've been using the truck for spring time yard chores.
.
.
Driving here and there - picking up this and that - pulling my trailer around - has got me really loving putting in an automatic transmission. We live in semi-rurals. Curvy back roads. Stop and go. Up and down hills. Having the Auto Transmission and Power Steering has totally improved the pleasure. I'm really wanting Power Disc Brakes.
So, as for future upgrades to my 65, I've been debating something for some time now. As I mentioned, my 65 is on a 62 frame. (This I did back in the early 80's.) And although I like the Torsion bar front suspension, and I know the parts are available for the 60-62 chassis to do any future upgrades, what upgrades I've done so far would have been easier with the 63-66 chassis. I like the idea of just using all 73+ parts on a 63-66 frame. As I get older, it'll make working on it much easier. Besides, the whole body is 64-66, so might as well put my 65 on the correct 64-66 frame.
So I bit the bullet. Picked up a 64-66 frame.
Already blasted and painted. I'm going to do all the upgrades to it first, and then just move my body parts over to it. That way I can continue to drive my truck like it is. Minimal downtime. :-)

[LostMy65]

Here's a couple pics of the new frame.

[66-PMD-GMC]

Good plan

[Palf70Step]

I would try and change out the e-brake system to the 66-68 style and get rid of that pain in the butt ebrake cross-member. Nice looking frame!

[LostMy65]

Thanks
Yep.
I plan to go with the newer e-brake cable system.
Also going to use the 73-87 motor mounts.
And Rear mount tank.
The thing I really like about this plan is I can get all the undercarriage the way I want it. All with easy access.
I'm rather happy with this decision.

[lowbuck]

That's a great way of doing the frame change over. The truck won't be off the road for long and you won't loose interest in the project.Nice to see that you use your truck.

[66-PMD-GMC]

By far, the easier way to run brake lines, fuel line, etc...
I put together a new motor for mine that way too..
The truck was already on the road, I basically just set the old body on a brand new chassis/drivetrain. .