1967 Mustang Coupe Build (Electra)

[Rusbuilt]

Looking good Jeff

[JRANGER]

Originally Posted by Rusbuilt

Looking good Jeff

Thanks Rus!!! Trying to learn heh

[Dieselwrencher]

Nice work. I found a 67 about an hour and a half away that's a 6cylinder car and cheap. Rough, but cheap. But then I found a 66 289 car with a 4 speed and I may have to make a scrap run and see what I can do.

[67ChevyRedneck]

All right! Shelby drop!

My "GT" springs sit my car too low with the Shelby drop. I ordered a new set of "stock height progressive rate springs" from SD, but initial uncompressed measurements are really similar to the GT spring (my stock height springs were a couple inches taller uncompressed). If they still sit too low, Street or Track (and others) recommend moving the spring perch out 1" on the A arm. This is supposed to further improve geometry and should raise the car 1/2".

My last resort is that from what I understand 67/68 springs are exactly the same as 65/66, just longer, so I'd buy a set of 67-68 springs and cut them.

[JRANGER]

You could get bigger insulators...Im kinda mad right now as i just realized i bought 1" insulators and i got 1/4". Needless to say i just sent and email to have this fixed

[67ChevyRedneck]

Careful with those! There are pics on VMF of people that had those flop over and the springs move because there is no longer any part of the spring being held by those metal "tangs" that poke down from the top of the tower. I did buy 1/4" ones to use on my car (so hopefully 1/2") and if that's not enough, I'll move the roller perch out.

Also remember that a 1" insulator is supposed to raise the car 2". A 1/2" is supposed to raise it 1", etc.

[JRANGER]

Found out i can just shim my perches 3/8" and probable get what i need. So i may go to home depot and pick up some washers.

Tomorrow im going to order ORP Make it steer kit, Roller idler arm and outter tierod setup. Plus some new wheels that will allow me to get rid of the spacers as well. So that may help too! Plus a few other things to help finish out the interior

[JRANGER]

Got to the drivers side and got the Arniing drop, UPR, Roller perch, and spring installed. I went ahead and put 2 washers under the perch to raise it up and bit so we will see how it sits once i complete everything. Oddly enough, I watched videos of replacing UPRs and they said shims are only used on 65-66....The driver side of mine had shims....WTF? Passenger side did not.. Weirdness

[JRANGER]

**uca

[JRANGER]

I really need to get the suspension done now!! Then i can get rid of the spacers and do the disc setup too

[flashed]

Them looks good .

[67ChevyRedneck]

Nice!

[JRANGER]

3 months later and a lot of work done on my truck but im back on the mustang.

Watched the Mustang Plus/Grab a trak videos on lower control arms and it sure seemed easy. Needless to say 2 hours later and trip to get a ball joint separator and i finally got one control arm off. Tomorrow i install the new one and a few other bushing. Depending on how that goes i might attempt the tie rods and idler arm

[JRANGER]

LCA Removed and Installed the New LCAs, Strut Rod Bushings, End Link Rods, and the sway bar bushing all on the passenger side. Took me 5 hours total. 2 hours for removal and then 3 hours for the install. From the lessons learned the other side should be a lot easier and once i finish that ill move on to the steering

[JRANGER]

Well the other side took just as long but for other reasons. The removal went easily other then the guy drilled holes and put cotter pins in a bunch of crap! Talk about pissing me off. Then once i started to install the LCA the back again was hard and i had some issue getting the bolt lined up, then i broke my socket wrench while installing the end on the spindle so i had to go buy a new one and a regular wrench. Then once it was installed the strut rod holes were too small on this side and were straight instead of just an angle install like the other side. So after fighting with all that and drilling the holes out. A trip to lowes and to advanced auto it took me all morning to complete the driver side LCA. Oh and i couldnt get the strut rod bushing replaced because the bolt was way too long and had a cotter pin in it as well. DA FU**

OH and then i did some research and discovered this was all due to someone using a 68 strut rod on the drivers side...UGH!!!

[JRANGER]

yeah yeah

[JRANGER]

Its been a while since i updated this thread. Ive actually moved and now have a 4 car garage at my new place.

Ive started installing the interior, working on the gauges, replaced sending units, installed tie rods, idler arm, and am about ready to start on the disc front brakes. I also need to test out the electronic speedo and get it calibrated

[JRANGER]

Also installed my wood grain wheel and a pillar covers while testing the sending units and such. Ignore the wiring..It will be cleaned up soon


And of course i had to rev her some
https://youtu.be/cpf_Y36vuPY

[flashed]

It sounds very good ,after I realized my speaker was turned off and played it again.

[Dieselwrencher]

It sounds very nice! I really like the gauges too! Congrats on getting a new place with a big garage too!

[JRANGER]

Thanks guys....Long way to go but shes getting there

[JRANGER]

Well its not my mustang but thought you guys might like my 55 F100...Its at my buddies shop getting a crown vic front end installed

[flashed]

I want to see more of that one too ,love those fat fender Fords .

[JRANGER]

here ya go

[flashed]

Very nice truck .