Starting my engine build

[Mrturner1]

I guess that would mean put the dial at 12-16 and THEN get the timing Mark on 0, to actually have 12-16 initial at idle speed, right?

[68c10owner]

Originally Posted by Mrturner1

So is that 12-16 BTDC with the dial on "0"?? I read that the dial should be set at 36 and then get the mark on the balancer to 0 to have 36 total. But I don't know for initial

If you are using a dial back timing gun you can set it to 12 degrees and then check the timing mark. You then adjust the distributor u til that timing mark lands on 0. Or you can set the gun to zero and adjust it using the marks on the timing tab.

[68c10owner]

Originally Posted by Mrturner1

I put the timing MARK at "0", the dial on the timing gun was at 36. So if the dial is at 36, you want the timing Mark to be at 0 to actually equal 36

Originally Posted by Mrturner1

I guess that would mean put the dial at 12-16 and THEN get the timing Mark on 0, to actually have 12-16 initial at idle speed, right?

Forget about the 36 degrees for now. That is your total timing, your initial and your mechanical advance. Lets work on your initial first.

Do this, start the t**** and with it idling check the timing. Turn the dial on the timing light until the mark on the tab reads zero. See what degree the dial is set to at that point. That is your initial.

[Mrturner1]

Originally Posted by 68c10owner

If you are using a dial back timing gun you can set it to 12 degrees and then check the timing mark. You then adjust the distributor u til that timing mark lands on 0. Or you can set the gun to zero and adjust it using the marks on the timing tab.

You've been such an awesome help man, I thank you kindly. I had to shut it down because my fiancé text me from in the house saying I'm rumbling all the dishes in the kitchen lol but I'll try again tomarrow.

I'm having a real issue with my trans linkage at the transmission. Th400 column shift but PO did a hack job swapping out a manual to this auto, so I have to figure out a linkage solution too. May have to get a floor shifter so I can just start new.

Thanks you for your help, please check in tomarrow as I may need some more help with this.

[68c10owner]

Cant help you with the column shift linkage but going to a B&M light truck megashifter would be a good idea. Plus they are fun to play with. Super easy to i stall and adjust too.

[Mrturner1]

Originally Posted by 68c10owner

Cant help you with the column shift linkage but going to a B&M light truck megashifter would be a good idea. Plus they are fun to play with. Super easy to i stall and adjust too.

Is that the one that does regular shifting and ratchet? I'd like both

[68c10owner]

Originally Posted by Mrturner1

Is that the one that does regular shifting and ratchet? I'd like both

Yes its a ratchet shifter. You can use the standard megashifter but the truck version is taller and works better if you still have the stock bench seat.

[davepl]

If you still have it I sent you a fairly lengthy description in a PM of how you sometimes have to lock out some mechanical advance to keep the total in line if you need a lot of initial. I don't know if you'll get into that situation - if you need so much initial that it pings under load, let us know!

[geezer#99]

Try this for modding your hei.
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...EI_distributor

[Mrturner1]

How do I know how much mechanical advance my distributor has? I'm understanding a lot more this is very helpful. One thing to build and turn wrenches, a whole different animal to tune RIGHT

[davepl]

When you disconnect and plug the vacuum line, run the engine up to about 3000rpm and check advance with the light (you'll need a dial-back light or a marked balancer or you'd have no way to read that far ahead).

That's called "Checking total advance" and will tell you were you're at. If your distributor had 28 degrees of mechanical, and you started at 10 BTDC, you'd see 38 degrees total advance (and you probably only want around 34 as a guess). I woulnd't worry unless it pings, but detonation can be hard to hear with headers and exhaust.

[Mrturner1]

Can I bypass the heater core because there's a drip just past the lower hose and I don't wanna deal with it right now

[Mrturner1]

#8 spark plug boot wasn't hooked up this whole time....let's try this again. Checking TOTAL at 3k first and getting it to 34 to be safe, yehaw

[Mrturner1]

Got the total to 34 at 3000 rpm but the headers were glowing red......what now

[Mrturner1]

I think the #3 plug wire is getting burned through and maybe that's why the headers got glowing red

[Mrturner1]

Any ideas? I'm at a loss and ready to roll this truck down the hill and forget about it

[Mrturner1]

Ok may not roll it down a hill, I love my truck lol I just want all this time and money to be a success

[Sklptrljay]

Mixture is too lean or timing is retarded too much. I'm thinking timing, since that's what you have been fighting lately.

[Mrturner1]

Originally Posted by Sklptrljay

Mixture is too lean or timing is retarded too much. I'm thinking timing, since that's what you have been fighting lately.

How do I get the mixture more rich?

[swamp rat]

Main jetting and adjustment of the metering rods in the carb

[Mrturner1]

Ok, fixed two plug wires that were melted through, dented the headers with a hammer and replaced boot. Started up great, no red headers and at 3k rpm I set to 34 degrees. Brought back down to idle and let it run but it's still getting hotter than it usually does. Enough to be concerned although I know J didn't ruin anything.

I haven't dumped the break in oil and put in regular 10w30 yet. Could this be a factor? And how do I get the mixture more rich. Both screws are 2 1/2 turns OUT from bottomed out in carb

[geezer#99]

Adjust your timing first.
Then play with the carb.
The mix screws are for idle.
Here's a thought!!
What's your total timing at 4000 rpm?
Some distributors are still adding advance up that high or higher.

[Valarius_Starchaser]

http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/...ers-manual.pdf

Best advice on any component in my mind is the one given by a manufacturer end of page 6 and 7 should prove helpful

[Sklptrljay]

How hot? What is your thermostat set for? Maybe it's stuck closed?

[swamp rat]

I was in a rush earlier, here's my take.

You have higher flowing heads and cam, think of it as an air pump pushing more air, then keep in mind that you need to have an ideal air/fuel ratio of 14.7:1 at all throttle positions. More air, not so much at idle because air/fuel screws usually takes care of it but at open throttle cruising situations or wide open means you need more fuel, i can only guess one maybe 2 sizes larger on the mains, but without doing the actual tuning its only a guess, it needs to be driven and plug readings taken, or be Dyno tuned.

I also find that when you change timing, you have to readjust the carb then recheck timing again.

Have you rechecked the water level yet? I'll bet if you haven't the engine has purged some air pockets and the radiator level is low.. Check and fill before any more restarts.

I was serious about the fiberglass sleeves for the plug wires.