Wife's 48

[8man]

Yeah, I thought that might change your mind about wiring!

[8man]

I've been busy checking stuff out. Today I replaced the rear E-brake cables. I think I got the wrong right side. I'll get more into that tomorrow.

I will post this again, Thank You Joedoh! I rechecked the wheel lugs and you are correct, they are metric. That 1/2" x 20 went on so easy, but it wasn't the right size. Luckily I didn't tighten it down as I just put them on so it would roll.

I've been checking some wiring stuff. I used some through the sheetmetal lugs for major power and ground stuff. I ran it through the inner fender. No pic yet. This will allow me to add power under the hood if I need to and I'll have a place to attach battery cables since I mounted the battery box under the cab on the frame. Pictures when the cab comes back off.

Then I got some contacts for the power locks on the doors. I read Ogre's and JoeDoh's write ups on where they put stuff on trucks and this is where they went.

IMG_0576 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

A closer view.
IMG_0577 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

NO, that weather strip is NOT going back, it is there to provide some reference for installing the switches.

And now the door.
IMG_0578 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

I grabbed the multimeter, checked them out and all is good! I now have power to the doors and the dome light has a door ground switch.

I know someone will see the pitting on the door. It was blasted prior to prime and is still solid. It'll be skimmed prior to final paint.

[OutlawDrifter]

Good work...I may end up having to put a door jamb switch on my '49!

[joedoh]

outstanding!

[8man]

I'm waiting on some parts to come in, and I've been looking at the inner fenders on the truck, and I don't like the way they fit. They were cut up for a Camaro front sub on one of the trucks, and they are just way off the frame.

This is what I have.
IMG_0583 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

You can see how rough they are cut above the frame, and that is the best angle to make it close. What the picture doesn't show is that when they were cleaned up, those rust pock marks you can see, a lot of them are see through.

Then I just cut this one and put it on.
IMG_0585 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

This one is a maximum of 2.5" above the frame and closer in most places. I have about 1" clearance for the header, is that enough?

I'm having to do some cutting and welding on the riders side. Some of the nuts were pulled out when getting them off the truck. So I'm repairing that before I cut it for a test fit.

[8man]

I had an E-brake issue, the rear cables I got were not the right ones for the ZR2 axle with the drum brakes. So I ordered a third cable. NO JOY!

So Tempest mentioned I needed to just make them. Thank you for that suggestion. So I did.

I had the threaded end on the rider's rear cable, and I knew I didn't need it there, so I cut it off. I am using an Infiinity press release brake pedal and it had a cable on it that ran almost to the gas tank. So I cut it off.

I just happened to have a piece that was hollow on one end and the same thread as the piece I cut off. So...
IMG_0586 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

I hooked up the brake pedal, mounted the line under the cab, hooked it to the new shorter rear cables and I now have an E-brake!

[Tempest67]

All Right, I am glad one of my ideas worked for you.

Here is what I did with the cut lower edges of the inner fenders. I purchased the black plastic 'door edge' molding from a local parts store and attached it to help 'clean up' the cut edge.......


like this

https://www.amazon.ca/MYFAMIREA-Guar...l-text&sr=1-16

[joedoh]

nice problem solving, way to think on your feet (and with a little push from tempest!)

[Gregski]

she's coming along nicely, sorry if I missed it, but how are you handling the steering column lower bracket? are you mounting it on the inside of the cab or on the outside, a close up pic would be helpful?

[8man]

I pulled the column out last week, but I will get you a pic of the bracket I'm using on the lower end of the column where it goes to the firewall. I had one from a Wagoneer that I "formed" a little to fit the contour of the firewall.

[8man]

OCD kicked in again. I've been working on the truck, but got sidetracked by "stuff I haven't thought of before". I read where Joe built the cab light, and since I'm going to use the door switch as the ground circuit to turn the cab light (and the two under dash courtesy lights) on and off, I thought I should give that some thought.

The cab light I have has a broken switch, but the tongue is still in tact. So I removed the old light socket from the housing.

IMG_0622 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr
Here is the housing with the old socket removed and the "new" socket I'm going to use. This is a turn/park light from the Jeep, and if I hook both wires up, one as a ground and one as power it lights up. However, I had to insulate the new socket from the housing, because otherwise it was grounded like our old light and the turn light would come on. So out with some electric shrink tape and it was insulated.

IMG_0623 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

I know, I know, I left out the step where I removed the housing that held it in place while it was a turn/park light and where I trimmed around the head, but you can see that was done.

Then I put it together and I now have a working ground activated cab light.

IMG_0624 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

Now back to other stuff I should be doing, unless something else catches my attention.

[NorCalGal]

Looks good, sometimes you just need to change things up a do something different than the day before.

[8man]

Jan, you're right and it felt good to get that done.

[Tempest67]

what I did with my dome light is, the switch at the dome controls the main light, but I added a 194 socket and bulb to the other side to the dome light assembly and hooked that up to the interior door jamb switches.

So, when the door opens I get some light from the dome, and if I want a brighter light from the dome, I click the switch.

it is nice to change things up and work on other things to break up the larger tasks


looks great, keep it going

[8man]

Thanks Tempest. I may do that on the 54.

[Tempest67]

I also added an under dash light on each side for the door jamb switches, as they light up the floor nicely.

[8man]

I am doing the under dash lights. I have them on the Cherokee and like them. I've already made the brackets and checked for fit. Good idea!

[Tempest67]

Glad to hear you are still moving forward

I think it was you that asked me about my door jamb switches, and yes, they work great.

[8man]

Yep. Thanks for the help.

[joedoh]

nice work man!

[8man]

Thanks Joe.

[8man]

I know, you all thought I sold both projects and was just a lurker!

Well, I've been doing the body work dance. Nothing exciting to show for the work.

However, this is my first attempt at "Body Bumping" and I am impressed. When I do it right, it actually works!!! I have worked on a couple of rear fender tails that I saved to use on the 54. I welded and ground and "bumped" and they look pretty good. Then I started on the rider's side for the 48.

My arms are dead and I'm whipped, so pictures tomorrow.

[NorCalGal]

Hang in there Robert.
The shrinking disc is an amazing tool to knock down high spots.

[8man]

Thanks Jan. I have a shrinking disc and I just need to learn to use it. I think that will happen as I get a little more done with the hammer and dolly.

[8man]

Jan, THANK YOU!

I got out the shrinking disc, read the instructions, and started working on the places I had some little "ripples" in that fender. It worked! I would have pictures, but I started welding up a split that was in the fender, and found a couple of pinholes, and got busy welding and grinding and forgot about pictures.