TA_C10: Stage 1

[SCOTI]

One step forward, one step back, another forward.... Looks like good progress though. Was the tank interfering w/the bed floor support cross-member?

[TA_C10]

Originally Posted by Kronald_70GMC

Looks pretty damn good man! I like the foam you have there. Do you have any more info on it? Seems like it would be a good sound deadline for sure!

Found it on Amazon. Really good stuff for the price. 32sqft did the whole cab and them some.

https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-32-29s...5624165&sr=8-2

Originally Posted by MDPotter

So what is left for stage 2?

Hah, sounds funny doesn’t it... Well I’m more or less doing my stages in reverse I guess after what happened. I originally planned on fixing up the truck a little at a time while I drove it. But after I found the P.O. did a little fibbing and I didn’t catch it the truck was rotted out too badly and I tore it all the way down. And everybody knows once you get that far.....

So my new stage II is beefing up the engine and trans, Detroit tru trac rear posi, modern seamless glass all the way around, and a few other things.

Originally Posted by SCOTI

One step forward, one step back, another forward.... Looks like good progress though. Was the tank interfering w/the bed floor support cross-member?

Yeah tank sat too high. I thought it was ok, but even notching the bed rail wasn’t going to work. Now it’s almost level with frame. G2G.

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[TA_C10]

Trans Leaks

So the 4L60E has had more leaks than I care to deal with... But the good news is most of them were my fault and pertained to dealing with the external coolers and fittings. In the end I resolved all those with a little dab of the paste thread sealant. Good to go there. But then I went to change the oil in the truck. Jacked up the front end pretty high. And while I'm under there I noticed quite a puddle forming behind me. Trans was leaking out of the U-Joint from what I could tell.

Well low a behold, it was all me again. Turns out there are more than one type of Trans Yoke. And therefore more than one setup inside the tail shaft of the trans.... The yoke I bought had the weep hole in the end and the trans tail shaft didn't have any seals on the shaft itself. Wasn't setup for that. So I bought a tail shaft rebuild kit just in case.

Here is the tail shaft. The two grooves are setup for different seals. O-rings. I started out thinking my o-ring should be on the first groove. Wrong. It needed to be on the groove the red arrow is pointing to. But I didn't like it. The yoke after setting the driveshaft back in the differential, ended up pulling the yoke away from the o-ring just a bit. Didn't seem like it was going to seal. So I ended up using the large metal housing for the 4x4 truck setups. At least that is what I read they were typically used on. Good thing the kit came with everything.




I was pleasantly surprised again that the shop I bought this from, seeming a little shady, had already took care of all these maintenance areas. The even replaced the race up by the tailshaft seal. You can see how clean everything was. This one is the speed sensor with the grease still on it.






Got all this from Amazon. Some of it was a kit, 2 pieces I purchased separate from the kit.




Here is the housing I was talking about. If you look inside the top you can see the o-ring that sits here, then the o-ring sitting to the side of it I went ahead and installed back on the shaft in the slot(red arrow) you see in above pic.




Got it this far, then had to use a socket to drive it the rest of way on.






Fully seated and ready to go.




After I finished this, I jacked the truck back up and no leaks. Whew...


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[Kronald_70GMC]

Good stuff! Leaks suck

[TA_C10]

Got a big problem with my doors. I may have screw'd up again. Didn't fit my doors with rubber installed..... Rockers might be way off. Or maybe I'm just not doing this right. I put a post up in the parent forum...

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=803661

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[TA_C10]

Update - Power Windows and Remote Power Locks

As many of you know, I am building this as my DD. So I wanted a lot of modern conveniences. Well I also didn't want to spend a million dollars either. So I went for the LMCTruck kits. God help me, I know your all going to say JUNK!! Well, I bought these a year ago before I did all the research so it's my fault. But I'm not crying about it, I am just moving forward. So I will be the judge here if they turn out to be junk, I will report back and let everyone know.

Power windows. This is a universal kit. Looks like they updated it from all the videos I found from other people so hopefully they fixed some issues. After I installed it, it seems like it works really good. I do not have any problems with it except for the "NON-STOCK, use the original door actuator" type of function but I guess that was the easiest method to build... Whatever.

Install took a couple of days, I wanted to make sure it was done right, hopefully get it square as possible so it works as good as I can get it. Well I think it went together pretty good.









Here are the switches it came with. I wanted to be able to control the passenger side too, you can't do that with those kits that utilize the original crank handle. So what I plan to do in Stage II is grab the 73-87 square body switches and swap these out. Should look pretty decent. From what I can tell the size of the hole for both the switches are very similar and the wiring is also similar so hopefully grafting in the squarebody switches will work out easily.




I did have a manufacturing flaw. One of the connections was soldered sloppy and it was soldered to the connection next to it(power and ground wires, black and red). So I had to heat the ground wire up, remove the sloppy solder, and re-solder it back cleanly. No problem. Fixed. No more blowing the fuse....




Here is a video of them working. I am playing with them quite a bit to show how tight and solid everything is and works.

https://youtu.be/AHVaevfThb4


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[TA_C10]

Update - Remote Power Door Locks

Here are the door locks. I ended up getting brand new door latches and actuators(inside door handle gear) because my originals were in bad shape. Installed no problem. They came with 2 keyless remotes. They don't look too bad. Eventually I will probably swap these out with a more advanced kit with remote start and alarm.

Here is video of them working. They are currently not powerful enough to unlock the door, even with brand new latches... I put a call into LMC to figure this out. They might not be strong enough. We shall see.

TA_C10

Pics:








Had to modify the door lock linkage. Just ground it down so the lock would fit. No big deal.

[MDPotter]

Thanks for the info. Our next project truck came with a power window kit, but not sure where it came from.

What do you mean when you say that you can't control the passenger side with the kits that utilize the original crank handle? And using an 87 switch instead of the switch that comes with the kit fixes that?

Don't you have holes in your inner door panels to fill in now? And don't the knurls on the window regulator stick out past the inner door panel?

[TA_C10]

Originally Posted by MDPotter

Thanks for the info. Our next project truck came with a power window kit, but not sure where it came from.

What do you mean when you say that you can't control the passenger side with the kits that utilize the original crank handle? And using an 87 switch instead of the switch that comes with the kit fixes that?

Don't you have holes in your inner door panels to fill in now? And don't the knurls on the window regulator stick out past the inner door panel?

Yeah I didn't do a very good job of explaining all that...

So they make kits that utilize wiring up to the original handle. It is the switch. You pull up on the handle and the window goes up. You pull down on handle the window goes down. These cannot control the passenger window from drivers side. So I got this kit with rocker switches.

And the rocker switches that came with it aren't bad. They even light up. But I want to get a pair of the squarebody switches instead, they look more OEM than these plastic switches that came with the kit.

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[MDPotter]

Ohhhhhh gotcha. I didn't know that function existed. I'll have to look and see what kind of kit the PO bought.

[TA_C10]

My door lock kit: https://www.lmctruck.com/1967-72-che...-remote-access

My power windows kit: https://www.lmctruck.com/1967-72-che...wer-window-kit

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[TA_C10]

Originally Posted by MDPotter

Ohhhhhh gotcha. I didn't know that function existed. I'll have to look and see what kind of kit the PO bought.

This is probably what I will end up doing if these end up junk or going out on me:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=601167

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[TA_C10]

Update - Skins

Well, I am going to just dump a bunch of pics on you. I didn't get much accomplished this weekend due to spending all day Sunday trying to figure out how to add relays to my 3rd party remote door lock kit. End result, I am scrapping the LMC kit. It's not for our trucks. Plus I need remote start and an alarm

So what I did get accomplished is my first look with all the skins installed! Everything is loose keep in mind and I just laid the cowl piece and hood on. But to my surprise, with 3/16 spacers behind my door hinges, it appears the hood is going to fit just fine! There were a few fitment issues I didn't like, the inner fenders to outer fenders hole alignments really suck. The passenger side outer fender, you can see in my pics, I don't even have a bolt in the bottom because it didn't line up enough to get a bolt in there. This might be due to my replacement piece I grafted in a year or more ago. The lower pillar piece and rocker that has the fender hole in it. I will have to stretch/cut that hole to make it open up more to accept the bolt for the fender. It's just too far back towards the rear of truck, it needs to slide forward to the front of truck. But of course it aint movin.... Gonna have to get creative with it...

Also, pay attention to how far my front wheels stick out compared to the rear. I went with the deluxe lowering kit from Brothers Trucks if anyone remembers way back in my thread. Looks like the new spindles first of all fix the angle so the wheel is centered in my wheel well? I thought the stockers was an A-arm issue where the wheel was set back in the well? Maybe spindles can fix that, didn't know about this issue when I bought the kit but looks good to me. But downside is the wheel sticks out way too far.

The PO put 275x60R15 tires on 10" rims all the way around so this is one of the problems. The fronts need to be 8" rims and a smaller width tire to fit right. But I think modular spindles from CPP might give me another 1.5" pull into the wheel well if I am not mistaken. Might go that route down the road. But for now, I took it for another stroll around the neighborhood and they didn't rub.

I stuck the new mesh kit under my cowl piece and its sticking up a little too far so the cowl wouldn't sit all the way down, but I really like the mesh under there. It's a good piece from what I can tell.

That block of metal is my 3/16 spacers I made for the top door hinges. The bottom hinges are only like 1/16" or 1/8" spacers(washers for right now actually) but the door fits so much better with these. And now that I see the hood looks like its close, I will probably roll like this unless I end up with problems down the road. I guess the factory had these doors so badly off that much spacer is required on my truck. It brings the front door away from the seal enough that it doesn't crush it ALL THE WAY TO THE SEAM. It was that bad. The door wouldn't even shut hardly. With the adjustments on the door(door side adjustments all the way out, meaning door away from cab) it was bad. With the spacers behind the hinge, door shuts pretty dang good now, seal isn't crushed so bad, and the alignment of the door looks soooo much better on the inside and outside.

It's been 2 years since these panels were bolted on the truck. Motivation....


Door stuff:













Skins stuff:









































Wheel stuff:





Rear Wheel





Front Wheel

[MDPotter]

That's the problem with 67-70 trucks, the track width difference front to rear. Our 69 had the same issue, 10" wide wheels and the fronts stuck way out and rubbed. We put the 8" wheels that came on my 68 on it and it looks much better. You pretty much have to do 8 or 8.5 in the front and 9.5 or 10 in the back to make it look right.

But it looks good, great to see it all mocked up!

[1971Stepside]

So, you got the door/rocker figured out?

[SCOTI]

Also, pay attention to how far my front wheels stick out compared to the rear. I went with the deluxe lowering kit from Brothers Trucks if anyone remembers way back in my thread. Looks like the new spindles first of all fix the angle so the wheel is centered in my wheel well? I thought the stockers was an A-arm issue where the wheel was set back in the well? Maybe spindles can fix that, didn't know about this issue when I bought the kit but looks good to me. But downside is the wheel sticks out way too far.

The PO put 275x60R15 tires on 10" rims all the way around so this is one of the problems. The fronts need to be 8" rims and a smaller width tire to fit right. But I think modular spindles from CPP might give me another 1.5" pull into the wheel well if I am not mistaken. Might go that route down the road. But for now, I took it for another stroll around the neighborhood and they didn't rub.

6-lug 12bolt rear housings were typically 1.5" narrower (.750" each side) than 5-lug housings. So a disc brake equipped truck would normally have a slightly wider rear housing which would camouflage the difference you're seeing by the addition of disc brake spindles & the same size wheel @ all four corners.

The CPP spindles do not alter the wheels fore/aft position within the fender opening. That is strictly done by shifting the a-arm mounting points. The CPP modular drop spindle helps w/the track width increases usually seen when swapping from drum brake spindles to disc brake spindles (about .375" - .500" each side).

[TA_C10]

Originally Posted by MDPotter

That's the problem with 67-70 trucks, the track width difference front to rear. Our 69 had the same issue, 10" wide wheels and the fronts stuck way out and rubbed. We put the 8" wheels that came on my 68 on it and it looks much better. You pretty much have to do 8 or 8.5 in the front and 9.5 or 10 in the back to make it look right.

But it looks good, great to see it all mocked up!

Thank you sir. I do plan to change something here. Not sure I just grab a couple front rims 8" or do new wheels and tires all the way around...

Originally Posted by 1971Stepside

So, you got the door/rocker figured out?

Well.... Sorta.... I messed with the doors for hours Thursday/Friday and called it quits... The doors still stick out from the rocker just a bit, not too bad now. And because its lowered so much you would never see it. So since i'm targeting this truck as my DD, I'm leaving it alone for now. I may one day come back and cut the rockers and bring them out. I also may take a mallet and bang the bottom doors in a little as that might be enough. If I do, I will let you know.

Originally Posted by SCOTI

6-lug 12bolt rear housings were typically 1.5" narrower (.750" each side) than 5-lug housings. So a disc brake equipped truck would normally have a slightly wider rear housing which would camouflage the difference you're seeing by the addition of disc brake spindles & the same size wheel @ all four corners.

The CPP spindles do not alter the wheels fore/aft position within the fender opening. That is strictly done by shifting the a-arm mounting points. The CPP modular drop spindle helps w/the track width increases usually seen when swapping from drum brake spindles to disc brake spindles (about .375" - .500" each side).

Thanks for this clarification sir. I'm drum in the back and new disk kit in the front so that's probably some of my issue for sure.

And that's what I thought, it had to be an A-arm change to fix the fore/aft position. I'm running stock control arms on my 70. I wonder how I got lucky and my wheels are centered??? Everything was bone stock on this truck when I tore it apart. I dunno....

So it sounds like the CPP modular spindles won't be enough by themselves... I will probably have to reduce my front rim to an 8" to get it tucked...

And as far as the rear, I will just get larger meatz! and get the backspacing correct on the rims, I ordered the brothers rear inner wide tubs and called it a day. I was gonna do my own but my wife is ready for this truck to be done

.

[SCOTI]

Thanks for this clarification sir. I'm drum in the back and new disk kit in the front so that's probably some of my issue for sure.... So it sounds like the CPP modular spindles won't be enough by themselves... I will probably have to reduce my front rim to an 8" to get it tucked...

Yes, definitely. To be specific, your 6-lug drum-brake rear truck housing is most likely narrower than a 5-lug drum-brake truck housing so it exaggerates the visual of the fronts sticking out when using the same size wheel front & rear. You went from drum brake spindles to disc spindles so the wheels are pushed out farther because of the wider disc brake track width.

And that's what I thought, it had to be an A-arm change to fix the fore/aft position. I'm running stock control arms on my 70. I wonder how I got lucky and my wheels are centered??? Everything was bone stock on this truck when I tore it apart. I dunno....

You typically notice the un-centered wheel location when utilizing aggressive drops. Mild drops when using spindles help minimize the issue. With the truck not aligned yet, it could be a fluke or, it could be the placement of all the sheet metal (the farther fore/aft of the sheet metal, the less you notice things) or it could be a combo of all the above (using spindles, alignment setting, & sheet metal location on the chassis).

And as far as the rear, I will just get larger meatz! and get the backspacing correct on the rims, I ordered the brothers rear inner wide tubs and called it a day. I was gonna do my own but my wife is ready for this truck to be done

10" wheels w/275-60's should fit w/o mini-tubs using the proper back spacing. Off the shelf back spacing is not ideal. This is where you have to weigh PROS/CONS.

Purchasing mini-tubs doesn't help your front issue. Since your front wheels are sticking WAAY out, you should look for a narrower wheel. I would consider appropriate sized wheels w/the back-spacing optimized as much as possible vs. generic/off the shelf dimensions.

[TA_C10]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Yes, definitely. To be specific, your 6-lug drum-brake rear truck housing is most likely narrower than a 5-lug drum-brake truck housing so it exaggerates the visual of the fronts sticking out when using the same size wheel front & rear. You went from drum brake spindles to disc spindles so the wheels are pushed out farther because of the wider disc brake track width.


You typically notice the un-centered wheel location when utilizing aggressive drops. Mild drops when using spindles help minimize the issue. With the truck not aligned yet, it could be a fluke or, it could be the placement of all the sheet metal (the farther fore/aft of the sheet metal, the less you notice things) or it could be a combo of all the above (using spindles, alignment setting, & sheet metal location on the chassis).



10" wheels w/275-60's should fit w/o mini-tubs using the proper back spacing. Off the shelf back spacing is not ideal. This is where you have to weigh PROS/CONS.

Purchasing mini-tubs doesn't help your front issue. Since your front wheels are sticking WAAY out, you should look for a narrower wheel. I would consider appropriate sized wheels w/the back-spacing optimized as much as possible vs. generic/off the shelf dimensions.

Oh, I must not have worded this correctly. I got rear only wider than stock tubs. I just want huge wheels/tires in the back. My stock tubs needed considerable work so it just made sense to grab new ones, wider while I was at it

So rear I'm thinking of like 315's or wider.

Fronts, yeah, appropriate sized wheels/tires will probably be my next move now that I understand I only get .5" at most each side with the modular drop spindles...

[Scurry67]

Looks great, man! Aligning body panels is a lot of work. How well is your bed lined up with your cab body lines?

[TA_C10]

Originally Posted by Scurry67

Looks great, man! Aligning body panels is a lot of work. How well is your bed lined up with your cab body lines?

Actually my bed lines up really good on body lines. The bed lines with door are a little low. I have a wood bed setup. Right now it's just sitting metal to metal on the frame. I bought that pad kit from brothers. The pads are a very thin rubber material so I expect them to make up the difference I have with door line. I will probably get some pictures of this when I rip it all apart again.

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[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by TA_C10

Oh, I must not have worded this correctly. I got rear only wider than stock tubs. I just want huge wheels/tires in the back. My stock tubs needed considerable work so it just made sense to grab new ones, wider while I was at it

So rear I'm thinking of like 315's or wider.

Fronts, yeah, appropriate sized wheels/tires will probably be my next move now that I understand I only get .5" at most each side with the modular drop spindles...

No, you worded it correctly & I understood what you meant. What I meant was w/the current rear tire 'size' on 10" wheels, a mini-tub wasn't needed. In my head, that tub money that can go toward wheels in the same diameter but w/better spacing. If your plan all along was to replace the rear tubs, then getting the wider units is cost effective.

I will caution on the super wide tires for a DD truck build: Fat tires, decent power, & light weight over the rear end easily get squirrely when it gets wet.

[TA_C10]

Originally Posted by Scurry67

Looks great, man! Aligning body panels is a lot of work. How well is your bed lined up with your cab body lines?

Oh, and if your looking at my pics, the bed lines are high compared to the cab lines. And this is because I put 3/4" plywood for a temporary bed floor. The 3/4 is too thick raising the bed sides too high..

Originally Posted by SCOTI

No, you worded it correctly & I understood what you meant. What I meant was w/the current rear tire 'size' on 10" wheels, a mini-tub wasn't needed. In my head, that tub money that can go toward wheels in the same diameter but w/better spacing. If your plan all along was to replace the rear tubs, then getting the wider units is cost effective.

I will caution on the super wide tires for a DD truck build: Fat tires, decent power, & light weight over the rear end easily get squirrely when it gets wet.

You know, at first, I was thinking I would go wider in the future, like stage 2. So I went ahead and ordered those wider tubs. But now your making me wish I had not ordered them to put that quan towards things that go wrong like needing new wheels... OR. See my next thread...

[TA_C10]

Update - Radiator gone wrong...

You should always expect the unexpected and go with the flow(no pun intended...)

But when your brand new radiator starts leaking you want to start throwing things. New items you pay good money for are not supposed to do this. Yeah I got my radiator from Superior radiator in michigan. They have an ebay store, but they are not just an ebay company. USA made it says. Well we shall see how they treat me after I called this morning letting them know what happened.

They are asking me to take some pictures and email it in. Then they will send a return packing label so they can get the radiator and take a look at it to see what's going on.

This is why some guys go straight to the big dawgs of radiator companies that are well known to have good reputations with good products and good QC. I went out on a limb for this company and this is my headache of the month. If they get me fixed up, and the product lasts, then i'm all good with this and no worries. But if they send me another bad QC product, I will ditch this sucka and "BE COOL". If ya catch my drift...

Seems to be leaking from within places I cannot see. But I also don't like the rust colored fins I'm seeing everywhere... It's aluminum for pete's sake..

I got corona bored and took a video of me flushing out the radiator as well. Cheers.

TA_C10

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by TA_C10

Update - Radiator gone wrong...

You should always expect the unexpected and go with the flow(no pun intended...)

But when your brand new radiator starts leaking you want to start throwing things. New items you pay good money for are not supposed to do this. Yeah I got my radiator from Superior radiator in michigan. They have an ebay store, but they are not just an ebay company. USA made it says. Well we shall see how they treat me after I called this morning letting them know what happened.

They are asking me to take some pictures and email it in. Then they will send a return packing label so they can get the radiator and take a look at it to see what's going on.

This is why some guys go straight to the big dawgs of radiator companies that are well known to have good reputations with good products and good QC. I went out on a limb for this company and this is my headache of the month. If they get me fixed up, and the product lasts, then i'm all good with this and no worries. But if they send me another bad QC product, I will ditch this sucka and "BE COOL". If ya catch my drift...

Seems to be leaking from within places I cannot see. But I also don't like the rust colored fins I'm seeing everywhere... It's aluminum for pete's sake..

I got corona bored and took a video of me flushing out the radiator as well. Cheers.

One of the main reasons I try to purchase certain items local: Time.

To get results you have to first get 'return' approval, package the item for transit (you saved that box right?), ship it to them & wait for their diag crossing your fingers the issue is properly ID'd. Then you get to wait for the repair process to be completed + transit back. Once in your posession you try it again.

What if it still doesn't work as expected?