48 Burb, bagged, 5.3, 20 year wait

[Advanced Design]

Looking forward to getting to this point on mine. This Burb was recently owned by 48Chevybagged. It was for sale in Panama City Beach a few years ago and I almost bought it. Wish I would have as we were only a couple grand apart.

If I finished my Burb in bare steel am I copying? Don't know that I will as current plan is to run our 48 as is paint and body wise.

Thoughts?

[oldman3]

Doug, just my $.03 worth (inflation) while the all steel look is great, I think your "as is" paint would be the way I would go...Jim

[youngrodder]

I agree, I would use your paint and add some character where needed if you do sheet metal repairs. I like the maroon color. You don't see many in that color. That was also the original color I had planned to paint my 48 truck.

Oh and it would not be coping. He was not the first to go all metal and if you went this route you would not be the last.

Marc

[Advanced Design]

Jim and Marc, thanks for your advice guys. I will stay the course with existing paint and likely won't see another one like it.

[lower50's]

Originally Posted by Advanced Design

Jim and Marc, thanks for your advice guys. I will stay the course with existing paint and likely won't see another one like it.

I think that's why we build these. Original!!

[Advanced Design]

Originally Posted by lower50's

I think that's why we build these. Original!!

...this one will be something...purple from the 1970's, Air Force blue from 1948, some surface rust and some green on the fenders. Thanks for helping keep my head on straight lower50's!

[DeeJayNOLA]

Let it be. Sand or clean up (treat in some way) the real rust issues and clear coat it to heaven and back. As long as the creature comforts are there. Who cares what the outside looks like. And I agree that maroon is bad _____!! Saw this silver one on Power Tour a few weeks back in Gonzales, LA. Is this the same burban?

[DeeJayNOLA]

Originally Posted by Advanced Design

Thank you 98!

Praise the Lord the surgery did take place yesterday and Cindy did well through the 8 hour procedure. We went from no hope to hope. Now for recovery and healing.

Then I will turn this back into a Suburban build. Apologies for my diversion guys. This has been hard. She is the center of my universe.

And God bless all of our wives for putting up with and loving our road needs. Hope to see you guys out on the road someday...

[Advanced Design]

DeeJay, I agree about the wives and their support. The Burb may have been the same one with the new owner.

Thanks for the advice...will be going that route for ours.

[ricott]

I believe that was a different suburban. If you look at the front you can see that he widened the entire truck 2 to 3 inches on each side. The interior was a complete 2000 up suburban (Dash/seats/console/instruments). It looked like he had widened the body to make it fit on a newer suburban floor pan - and it looked really good.

[Iceburgh]

Best part of building these things is doing what you like. I prefer paint over patina or bare metal. The fact that I do consulting for a wax company probably has something to do with that.
I can understand why people shy away form paint with the cost of material these days.
Foolish!!

[Advanced Design]

Skymangs..Chris of Old Sarge customs had a shop fire and was severly injured. He will need rehabilitation as well. He is a great guy and has helped many on here with their builds and questions.

To help with the medical bills and expenses a fund has been set up here....http://gofundme.com/c49h5mjx8

More details are here...http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=676217

Whatever you can give will really help. Thank you.

[DeeJayNOLA]

Originally Posted by Iceburgh

Best part of building these things is doing what you like. I prefer paint over patina or bare metal. The fact that I do consulting for a wax company probably has something to do with that.
I can understand why people shy away form paint with the cost of material these days.
Foolish!!

Yeah getting paint that you want for some of these builds/customs/ is . I know people think, I repeat THINK you have x amount of money b/c you're redoing an antique but c'mon. And then there are all these scratch proof, dent resistant, sun proof paints out there as well. But nothing does the job best (in my opinion) than a few extra coats of glitter induced clear.

[Advanced Design]

Iceburgh is right about shying away from paint because of the cost. I think he said he had $7,500 in materials in his burb paint. So, Having paint and body work done on this one would be $15,000 plus. Then to look right the chrome, accents and interior has to be really nice adding another $10,000 as a guess. Plus all the chassis, brakes, drivetrain etc and before you know it you have nearly $50,000 in this one that you might be able to sell for $30,000. I do this because I enjoy it and at same time I try not to make decisions that will cost me a pile of money.

Good points deejay. What kind of clear are you referring to?

[Iceburgh]

Originally Posted by Advanced Design

Iceburgh is right about shying away from paint because of the cost. I think he said he had $7,500 in materials in his burb paint. So, Having paint and body work done on this one would be $15,000 plus. Then to look right the chrome, accents and interior has to be really nice adding another $10,000 as a guess. Plus all the chassis, brakes, drivetrain etc and before you know it you have nearly $50,000 in this one that you might be able to sell for $30,000. I do this because I enjoy it and at same time I try not to make decisions that will cost me a pile of money.

Good points deejay. What kind of clear are you referring to?

Can you imagine what it would cost to do one of these out of a good shop. I know some people don't have the tools, time or ability to build. However I can see this being $80k out of a good shop from start to finish...if it stops there

[Advanced Design]

Originally Posted by Iceburgh

Can you imagine what it would cost to do one of these out of a good shop. I know some people don't have the tools, time or ability to build. However I can see this being $80k out of a good shop from start to finish...if it stops there

For sure! Cheaper to buy one done. If I knew how, I could maybe do the paint body work and maybe save that labor cost...plus add a bunch of time to the build.

It is amazing how fast you built yours Iceburgh. Came out really nice too.

[Iceburgh]

Originally Posted by Advanced Design

For sure! Cheaper to buy one done. If I knew how, I could maybe do the paint body work and maybe save that labor cost...plus add a bunch of time to the build.

It is amazing how fast you built yours Iceburgh. Came out really nice too.

Thanks...paint and body is where I am best at and it helps to have a buddy with a good booth and much more talent than me.

Mine as you saw was pretty good but once the primer came off it showed many areas.. Fenders, rear door, roof and patch panels on the lower quarters. But I also had half of my build hours in body work.. I couldn't pay someone to do that. Some people can I have real bills and plan on retiring in 10 years. Like most of us I guess we have to pick and choose where to spend money.
All in I had it done ( Almost...a few bugs to work out) in about 20 months and Myself, FIL, Uncle and buddy we had 2100 hours in it.
Yours will be great and Marc's will be off the hook if it is even close to his truck

[Advanced Design]

Thanks Iceburgh, no doubt Marc's will be nice. Hopefully soon I can get back on mine.

Wow, 2,100 hours in yours. No wonder guys get burned out on their projects.

[99 to Life]

dang, 2100 hrs. makes me feel good on my 800hr plus build (but not a burb and I'm not painting the outside). The nice thing about patina is cutting down on hours, if you have a decent body to work with, which I never do. I got two projects lined up to paint and potentially three if I paint my next AD build. Sad thing is that will eat up so many years of my life. I feel like a project that eats up 1.5-2 yrs straight is about my max on being sick of it. Its amazing how some pro shops stay in business, you have to have the right (wealthy) clientele.

[youngrodder]

Originally Posted by Advanced Design

Thanks Iceburgh, no doubt Marc's will be nice. Hopefully soon I can get back on mine.

Sorry to disappoint fellas but I'm not going with a nice shinny paint job on the burb. I want to drive this one daily. Once the kids are gone maybe then will I paint it nice. I will have the underside nice so that if when I want to paint it I will not have to remove the body from the frame.

Marc

[youngrodder]

Due to an expected/unexpected job change I have not been spending anytime on the burb. I did get out there tonight and I plan on working on it more and more now that I'm a couple weeks into a new job. Porterbuilt is close on the AD kits. Here are a few pics that they have shared on Instagram. A few of that changes are now the front and rear will be a bolt in unit. The rear rails flow like the stock rails. I was told they just need to fab the front radiator support and there done. In the meantime I will get my frame blasted in anticipation.

Marc

[Iceburgh]

Marc...any idea on what that cost?

[Advanced Design]

Also Marc, do they use a boxing plate? I like the looks and quality of Porterbuilt products and I would have to give some thought about strength on how the front rail attaches. Looks like a bolt on overlapping the original rail?
Good luck with your new position!

[youngrodder]

Originally Posted by Iceburgh

Marc...any idea on what that cost?

Jim-

I have an idea but I wont know for sure until they are done developing it. I will send you a PM once I know.

Marc

[youngrodder]

Originally Posted by Advanced Design

Also Marc, do they use a boxing plate? I like the looks and quality of Porterbuilt products and I would have to give some thought about strength on how the front rail attaches. Looks like a bolt on overlapping the original rail?
Good luck with your new position!

Wow I must have been tired. The post I made in your tread was intended for my left for dead build thread. I will delete it (if I can) from yours and move to mine...Yes it bolts over the existing rails. When you consider the amount of kits on the market that they have sold I'm not worried. I might box the frame rails though. What you are also not seeing is the center cross member where the rear rails tie into. This is a very robust piece.

Thanks on the job comment. It is 6.5 miles from my house and I can drive the 48 to work quite often.

Marc