S10 Swap how to

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by KRFitz

Hi Guys, new to the thread, 1st post. I'm considering doing an S10 swap on my '51 5 window. Is it possible to use the 4.3L as it sits without moving the motor position? Looking for the simplest way to approach this project. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.

no, its not. the fan would be through the core support.

you can buy V8 S10 swap mounts and flip them side to side so it moves the mounts back 5 inches, but for a 4.3 moving it back 8 inches is a lot better.

[KRFitz]

Does the motor mounting position come down to what a guy plans on doing with the fan? I have seen electric push fans used on the front side of the rad. Does this allow enough room to use the flipped V8 mount option, or do you still suggest the full 8" move.

[skymangs]

I would still recommend that the engine goes 8 inches farther back. You cannot get away with leaving the 4.3 in the same spot as it was in the S 10.

[gigamanx]

Originally Posted by KRFitz

Does the motor mounting position come down to what a guy plans on doing with the fan? I have seen electric push fans used on the front side of the rad. Does this allow enough room to use the flipped V8 mount option, or do you still suggest the full 8" move.

It doesn't matter too much what is done with the fan. I tried to get away with not moving the motor at all. You need every bit of space you can get. My radiator didn't fit at all with the core support mounted and the radiator in place. It hits the lower engine block pulley.

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by KRFitz

Does the motor mounting position come down to what a guy plans on doing with the fan? I have seen electric push fans used on the front side of the rad. Does this allow enough room to use the flipped V8 mount option, or do you still suggest the full 8" move.

I moved my first one 5.5 inches and there was no room for the clutch fan but I was able to offset an electric fan to fit as a puller. I moved my second one 8.5 inches and the clutch fan barely fit.

both of those were 4.3. which is a good point to bring up. the engine mounts are in different places on the block on 4.3 vs V8s. the V8 mount is very forward, the 4.3 is more to the middle of the block so flipping S10 V8 mounts moves a V8 rearward more (its like an 8 inch total move on a V8) than a 4.3.

I guess what I am saying is, if the mounts were in the same place on V8s and 4.3, using the swap mounts would move it enough, but if they were in the same place on V8s and 4.3, swap mounts wouldnt exist!

[KRFitz]

Great to know. Well since I have no choice but to move the motor back, is there specific years of S10's that works better for doing this? I believe I read some of the earlier years chassis worked better? I would appreciate any suggestions on what all my options are for ideal donor vehicles. I live in an area with smaller population and therefore limited selection of used vehicles to choose from. I understand S10, S15, Sonoma, any others like Blazers, etc.? What years? (Would like to use the stock 4.3 motor). Thanks,

[skymangs]

I like to use first generation S 10/ S 15 as a donor the reason is only that the brake pedal Assembly is usable. The Second generation is doable, but you'll need to source a brake pedal Assembly from like a G body. You Will also look for one with a 4.3/ 700R4, as the 2.8 transmission doesn't fit a SBC.

[joedoh]

I like using the second gen trucks, they have the vortec CFI 4.3 and 4L60e trans, bussed electrical systems, there are a lot of positives. but like skymangs says there can be an issue with the brake pedal, most second gen trucks (98+) have a big aluminum pedal box. also, if you want to keep the electronics you need to keep the steering column and it also attaches to this big pedal box. I have done two AD with 98+ s10 4.3 donors, and made an interface bracket that keeps the aluminum pedal box and steering column mount.

I am doing a 95 4.3 right now and while it doesnt have the aluminum pedal assembly I am going to design a bolt in bracket to hold the pedals and column. its not in an AD, its a 41, but I will document the design.

[gigamanx]

Originally Posted by KRFitz

Great to know. Well since I have no choice but to move the motor back, is there specific years of S10's that works better for doing this? I believe I read some of the earlier years chassis worked better? I would appreciate any suggestions on what all my options are for ideal donor vehicles. I live in an area with smaller population and therefore limited selection of used vehicles to choose from. I understand S10, S15, Sonoma, any others like Blazers, etc.? What years? (Would like to use the stock 4.3 motor). Thanks,

..and don't forget hunting down a long bed model will save you some time. Wheelbase is the same 117" as an A.D. truck.

[47owner]

I have looking into the S10 frame change. I have a 3600 1947. Its a California truck, frame in good shape. I was thinking of using a 4WD Blazer for the drive train and the engine and trans. Is that doable, also any suggestions on what to do on the front suspension and axle. I don't have a bunch of extra cash, I just want to make it a daily driver.

[joedoh]

I havent done it, so I am not an expert, but I think the problem with using a 4x4 is that when you move the motor back the transfer case is right in the middle of the torsion bar attachments.

I know there is a guy who used a 4x4 frame but got rid of the front drive, and therefore the transfer case, that was his solution.

[8man]

I've read about using muriatic acid on the S10 frame, but this frame has so much surface rust, I'm wondering how you would treat it

IMG_1735 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

Thanks,
Robert

[OutlawDrifter]

Sandblast or wire brush/cup.

[joedoh]

muratic acid is mostly to remove the wax the manufacturer put on the s10 frames, if its that rusty there probably isnt a lot of wax left.

I have had good luck with the braided wire cup on a grinder

[gigamanx]

Originally Posted by joedoh

muratic acid is mostly to remove the wax the manufacturer put on the s10 frames, if its that rusty there probably isnt a lot of wax left.

I have had good luck with the braided wire cup on a grinder

Originally Posted by 8man

I've read about using muriatic acid on the S10 frame, but this frame has so much surface rust, I'm wondering how you would treat it

I wasn't too happy with the muriatic acid (home depot) and ammonia combination. The amount of prep just to keep that stuff from burning holes through everything wasn't worth my time. Wire cup worked great on my frame just wear a basic mask and goggles. Breathing that dust flying around sucks.

See post #622 of this thread.

[skymangs]

Originally Posted by gigamanx

I wasn't too happy with the muriatic acid (home depot) and ammonia combination. The amount of prep just to keep that stuff from burning holes through everything wasn't worth my time. Wire cup worked great on my frame just wear a basic mask and goggles. Breathing that dust flying around sucks.

See post #622 of this thread.

I use a grinder and a 36 grit flap disk, available at your local Harbor Freight.

[47owner]

My thinking was to keep the frame off the 1947 and adapt the rear suspension, motor and trans. no transfer case, of course I would need a new drive shaft. The other issue is what to do with front suspension.

[joedoh]

well technically, an "s10 swap" is using the whole frame, so you can ask for opinions on front suspension and using the S10 rear on the regular forum. a couple guys will dance a literal jig that you are keeping the original frame.

[Nchristi]

I've read and reread I guess it just ran together.....thanks

[skymangs]

Originally Posted by Nchristi

Does anyone have a bed mount riser designs that goes with the version 2 cab mount designs?
Posted via Mobile Device

don't I show that?

[mel knippson]

im curious to know what is wrong with the threads that have , bagged, lowered, or slammed in them ... i just posted my first thread and it has bagged in it .. i understand you dont like the style , but we need help just like anyone else .



mr48chev, anyone who's been on this forum for any length of time is well aware of your opinions of lowered or frame-swapped trucks. You don't need to seek out these types of threads to keep reminding everyone.
Just a suggestion; when you see a thread titled "bagged" or "lowered" or "slammed" or "S10 swap" DON'T CLICK ON IT.
__________________
Bill US Army Vet -193rd Infantry

[skymangs]

Originally Posted by mel knippson

im curious to know what is wrong with the threads that have , bagged, lowered, or slammed in them ... i just posted my first thread and it has bagged in it .. i understand you dont like the style , but we need help just like anyone else .



mr48chev, anyone who's been on this forum for any length of time is well aware of your opinions of lowered or frame-swapped trucks. You don't need to seek out these types of threads to keep reminding everyone.
Just a suggestion; when you see a thread titled "bagged" or "lowered" or "slammed" or "S10 swap" DON'T CLICK ON IT.
__________________
Bill US Army Vet -193rd Infantry

Funny... very funny.

[joedoh]

for anyone wondering how to move the stock 4.3 or want to install a sbc, and dont think you want to build the super simple engine mounts skymangs shows, I have recommended and just recently installed for the first time the universal weld in engine mount crossmember from speedway motors. It comes with two new motor mounts and is $75.

to keep the motor at the same height as stock, I ended up with the tube almost exactly 1/2 way over the frame then boxed in the open end. you can measure from the center of the original mount to the center of the new mount to get the right amount of move, mine is moved 10 inches because its a 41 going on the frame, measure your own to be sure. also, dont forget to offset about an inch to the passenger side for steering shaft clearance, and install the mount at a 4 degree down angle. you dont have to level the frame, just put an angle finder on the middle part of the frame and note the angle, then install the motor mount with 4 more degrees down to the rear

IMG_7385 by Joe Doh, on Flickr
IMG_7415 by Joe Doh, on Flickr
IMG_7418 by Joe Doh, on Flickr
IMG_7437 by Joe Doh, on Flickr

what about the trans? what if you dont want to section your original or dont have it?
speedway makes one of those too. get the one with the 4" drop, I got the 2" drop and it wasnt enough for exhaust.

Messages Image(4025115421) by Joe Doh, on Flickr

you might need to cut the center of it out to fit a later trans mount.
IMG_7408 by Joe Doh, on Flickr

it comes with two triangle mounts, but so does the engine crossmember, if you use them all on the trans mount you have a removable trans mount, easy peasy.
IMG_7453 by Joe Doh, on Flickr


if you order them at the same time you get free shipping, and its under $130 for both WITH new engine mounts. you can build them like skymangs shows and its not very hard and is defintely cheaper, but I spent more time at homer derpo getting the parts to make my own on the last truck than I did installing BOTH of these

[gigamanx]

Originally Posted by mel knippson

im curious to know what is wrong with the threads that have , bagged, lowered, or slammed in them ... i just posted my first thread and it has bagged in it .. i understand you dont like the style , but we need help just like anyone else .



mr48chev, anyone who's been on this forum for any length of time is well aware of your opinions of lowered or frame-swapped trucks. You don't need to seek out these types of threads to keep reminding everyone.
Just a suggestion; when you see a thread titled "bagged" or "lowered" or "slammed" or "S10 swap" DON'T CLICK ON IT.
__________________
Bill US Army Vet -193rd Infantry

Not to argue against your preference, but I've had some decent success on this forum in getting information for my favorite...bagged s10 chassis swaps. There's even a thread of sweet pictures here:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=517098

The nice part about an Internet community is you can ignore anyone you want no matter how loudly they type

I'm currently working on putting an accuair e-level and firestone bags on my S10 swap. Be happy to share my mistakes and research with ya.

[HUSSEY]

Originally Posted by mel knippson

im curious to know what is wrong with the threads that have , bagged, lowered, or slammed in them ... i just posted my first thread and it has bagged in it .. i understand you dont like the style , but we need help just like anyone else .

mr48chev, anyone who's been on this forum for any length of time is well aware of your opinions of lowered or frame-swapped trucks. You don't need to seek out these types of threads to keep reminding everyone.
Just a suggestion; when you see a thread titled "bagged" or "lowered" or "slammed" or "S10 swap" DON'T CLICK ON IT.
__________________
Bill US Army Vet -193rd Infantry

I'd be curious to know where you get your entitlement? An FNG with 10 posts, 0 contribution to date, and you're calling out a long standing and contributing member?

There's nothing wrong with coming on here and asking for help but before you act like you own the place and start telling everyone how it is you need to put in your dues. Learn, share, show us how you got it done, what your experience taught you, and what you've ****ed up so we don't **** it up too. Then maybe, we, or at least I, will give a **** about your opinion.

Sorry to hyjack the thread, rant done. Please, back to "S10 Swap how to".