S10 Swap how to

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by OutlawDrifter

Meh, I removed mine completely. My tranny x-member is pretty heavy and makes up for it though.

I think you are gonna be fine haha. I just stopped short of telling someone to go ahead and remove it

[dettmer13]

Hello everyone. I've built my cab stands according to skymang's version 2 plans, and mounted them to the given measurement away from the oval hole. Everything is going together well, but I'm a bit concerned with the clearance of the front wheels in relation to the fender. I plan on lowering it 2" using Belltech 2102 spindles with new stock coil springs. If the experts think everything is OK and it'll clear, then I'll move forward. Any input is appreciated.

[joedoh]

1. your front clip is pointing down in relation to the cab. this happens more than you think on this swap. raise it so the body line on the fender is level with the bottom of the door.

2. it looks like you might be mounted a bit far back, but to be sure, did you replace the upper control arms? if you swap them side to side or use the speedway tubular uppers and get them on upside down? the wheel will move forward a lot in either case. did you take out any caster shims? it also sets the wheel forward if they are removed. if you havent messed with the control arms, triple check your measurement and make sure the body mounts are level and plumb. for example, the body being low on the rear mounts will cause the problem stated in #1 and lean the cab back.

[tlorber]

Your front fender and hood DO appear to be aiming down a bit, although that may just be the camera angle. I've noticed on my truck that as I put more weight on the front end the wheels articulate to the rear slightly. Is everything currently in place? (i.e. motor, tranny, radiator etc.).

Here's how mine ended up with everything in place. I still want to drop the front end a bit and probably get larger tires in the front.

[dettmer13]

Originally Posted by joedoh

1. your front clip is pointing down in relation to the cab. this happens more than you think on this swap. raise it so the body line on the fender is level with the bottom of the door.

2. it looks like you might be mounted a bit far back, but to be sure, did you replace the upper control arms? if you swap them side to side or use the speedway tubular uppers and get them on upside down? the wheel will move forward a lot in either case. did you take out any caster shims? it also sets the wheel forward if they are removed. if you havent messed with the control arms, triple check your measurement and make sure the body mounts are level and plumb. for example, the body being low on the rear mounts will cause the problem stated in #1 and lean the cab back.

joedoh, The front clip is facing down right now because I was following the Stovebolt forum directions to get my hood alignment and fenders to line up before I welded in my core support, but I will make the proper adjustment to check for wheel clearance first. Also, I haven't messed with the suspension at all yet. Everything is just as stock as it came on the S10. I'll get under the truck and make some measurements to be sure everything is level and plumb. I'm pretty sure I wasn't drinking when I fabbed them and/or tacked them in. I do have the motor and transmission in the truck right now, but not the radiator. I'll let you know what I find.

[skymangs]

Originally Posted by dettmer13

joedoh, The front clip is facing down right now because I was following the Stovebolt forum directions to get my hood alignment and fenders to line up before I welded in my core support, but I will make the proper adjustment to check for wheel clearance first. Also, I haven't messed with the suspension at all yet. Everything is just as stock as it came on the S10. I'll get under the truck and make some measurements to be sure everything is level and plumb. I'm pretty sure I wasn't drinking when I fabbed them and/or tacked them in. I do have the motor and transmission in the truck right now, but not the radiator. I'll let you know what I find.

be sure to put your grill in. I've noticed that the front of the fenders sags a little when it's out, I bet that once you put the grill in those wheels will be centered in the wheel well.

[dettmer13]

Originally Posted by skymangs

be sure to put your grill in. I've noticed that the front of the fenders sags a little when it's out, I bet that once you put the grill in those wheels will be centered in the wheel well.

Thanks for the input everyone! After putting the grill in and adjusting my core support up about 2", everything is lined up in the wheel wells. I don't know what I'd do with out this forum to help me out.

Also, another question to those have done the Blazer big brakes conversion. I have a 1992 S10 as the frame for my 51. I've seen forums here where some have used the Belltech 2102 (2" drop spindles) for a 98-03 Chevy Blazer on an older S10 upper and lower control arms. Have any of you heard of this? I was checking HUSSEY's build for "Albert" and it looked like he did this. Can anyone foresee any issues with geometry and alignment? Thanks in advance!!

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by dettmer13

I've seen forums here where some have used the Belltech 2102 (2" drop spindles) for a 98-03 Chevy Blazer on an older S10 upper and lower control arms. Have any of you heard of this? I was checking HUSSEY's build for "Albert" and it looked like he did this. Can anyone foresee any issues with geometry and alignment? Thanks in advance!!

hussey did it (confirming, I remember it), and I did it on my 47 gmc, its a great brake upgrade. you will need to keep the truck rubber brake hoses because the blazer hoses have a different fitting at the hard line. it aint cheap though. the blazer drop spindles are twice as much as the truck and then you should figure to replace the bearings and calipers and rotors and pads. when you are done I think you will find you kept the caliper bolts and the bearing bolts.

there is no change to geometry or alignment. there is a great improvement in braking though!

[Desert1957]

Originally Posted by dettmer13

Also, another question to those have done the Blazer big brakes conversion. I have a 1992 S10 as the frame for my 51. I've seen forums here where some have used the Belltech 2102 (2" drop spindles) for a 98-03 Chevy Blazer on an older S10 upper and lower control arms. Have any of you heard of this? I was checking HUSSEY's build for "Albert" and it looked like he did this. Can anyone foresee any issues with geometry and alignment? Thanks in advance!!

I would like some info on this also. Curious about the extra stress on this single , one piece style front wheel bearing especially if you use wheel spacers.

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by dettmer13

Also, another question to those have done the Blazer big brakes conversion. I have a 1992 S10 as the frame for my 51. I've seen forums here where some have used the Belltech 2102 (2" drop spindles) for a 98-03 Chevy Blazer on an older S10 upper and lower control arms. Have any of you heard of this? I was checking HUSSEY's build for "Albert" and it looked like he did this. Can anyone foresee any issues with geometry and alignment? Thanks in advance!!

just as a follow up, I found pictures of my blazer brake swap on the 47. working on the old desktop (lappy is in for service) means I have access to all the archival pictures. might put some more on flickr if I think about it.

IMG_0950 by Joe Doh, on Flickr
IMG_0951 by Joe Doh, on Flickr
IMG_0953 by Joe Doh, on Flickr


the belltech blazer spindles bolt right to the s10 truck arms. change the bearings as a 'while you are in there', use timkin bearings if you can, and use new rotors and pads. my rotor shows dust because I had a rock in the pad and these pictures were taken when changing the bad rotor/pads.

[gigamanx]

Originally Posted by skymangs

be sure to put your grill in. I've noticed that the front of the fenders sags a little when it's out, I bet that once you put the grill in those wheels will be centered in the wheel well.

I happened to notice this on mine too. They sag inward and the edge of the grill actually pushes the base of the fenders outward to their correct position. I kept thinking the fenders were too narrow until the grill was in and it all made sense. Amazing how much flex and movement exists in the body panels.

[my80schild]

hello all!! I have been reading all these post for the last few weeks as I am, as well as so many of you are doing these s10 frame swaps. I have come to a stoping point and need help that I don't think I have seen posted up yet (or at least so I think).

question: how has everyone routed the wiring harnesses into dash? have you all been cutting a big hole through the firewall and feeding the wires through the drivers side?(thats how I purchased my half finished s10/3100 came to me) if so how did you guys close or seal the hole afterwards.
thanks and sorry if this has already been discussed(just signed up to this forum and have little experience with these trucks)
If so how have

[99 to Life]

what harness are you referring to? an aftermarket wiring harness or stock s10 harness/engine harness? How big a hole you talking about? they make grommets, but not sure how big they really go and or how big of a hole you are talking about. When I wire headlights for example using aftermarket harness, i'll route them through the cowl area and up the front fender to hide them. or you could run just those wires out through its own hole in firewall and run them up along the inner fenders. Options are endless, just need to give us some pics or info.

[HUSSEY]

I used pipe sealing grommets made by Kennard that are flexible. I installed the grommet first, then ran the wires through them.

http://www.kennardind.com/grommets.htm

I bought an assortment from McMaster Carr, on their site search for: pipe sealing grommets.

https://www.mcmaster.com/#pipe-seali...mmets/=1as7odm

Sealsit makes a split grommet. I didn't care for the way they looked and I think they're a bit over priced.

http://sealsit.com/product-category/split-grommet-seal/

[my80schild]

thanks for the quick response guys. And sorry, yes it is 2001 s10 truck and s10 engine harness. I'm more referring to the pcm, ecu, fuse box and multiple little wiring boxes(see pics as reference) the firewall was cut( see first pic) and everything was stuffed under the dash and zip tied up there (super getto). I am wanting to get the wires and boxes hidden better match or slim down I'm 6inch firewall hole and wondering the course of action.

99 to life, i do like the idea of going through the cowl. I was wondering if anyone runs the wires through the passenger inner cowl and into the passenger kick panel compartment?(see last picture) and just hang as many of the wires as possible




5

[my80schild]

crap sorry guys. newbie here haven't been on a forum ever and just learned how to post pictures on a forum after watching three youtube videos(insert face palm). so sorry for image size

[99 to Life]

you can run some stuff through that pass side cowl. I ran headlight wires and heater hoses through there.

[joedoh]

in this picture



there is only thing that needs to pass through the firewall, and its not what you are holding, its the big connector to the left and below that has the threaded grommet.

you can trace that shape and make the firewall hole the same, then the threaded studs will hold it tight to the firewall and seal it.

I have done 3 trucks with 98-03 harnesses, everything else you are showing goes in or under the dash. there is a big fusebox/distribution that goes under the hood, and all the other underhood stuff/rear harnesses plug into it. I lost the pictures in my threads but I will dig some up to show you where and how I mounted it all.

[motorhead153]

So this might have been covered already and if so where would I find info tricks and tips? I have a 52 short box and a extended cab S10 and correct me if I'm wrong the S10's wheel base is 122.9 and the 52 is 116.0. So where is the best place to take 7ish inches out?

[skymangs]

my80schild, you can absolutely hide the wiring between the inner and outer fender. On my 49 I hid the a/c lines there.

[skymangs]

motorhead153, honestly I've always started with a single cab long bed. but, if I was to start with an extended cab I think I'd cut in front of the hanger bearing.

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by skymangs

motorhead153, honestly I've always started with a single cab long bed. but, if I was to start with an extended cab I think I'd cut in front of the hanger bearing.

to add to that, all 2wd s10 trucks and blazers use the same front frame half and different rear frame halves that are longer or shorter (or a different shape in the case of the blazer) to make the different wheelbases. there is a factory weld joint where the rear section is slipped inside the front section, its roughly under where the door was, and you can grind the factory welds and slip it apart, cut off the extra, and slip it back together and weld it. a slip joint is a little easier to keep square and weld strongly than a butt joint.

[motorhead153]

Originally Posted by joedoh

to add to that, all 2wd s10 trucks and blazers use the same front frame half and different rear frame halves that are longer or shorter (or a different shape in the case of the blazer) to make the different wheelbases. there is a factory weld joint where the rear section is slipped inside the front section, its roughly under where the door was, and you can grind the factory welds and slip it apart, cut off the extra, and slip it back together and weld it. a slip joint is a little easier to keep square and weld strongly than a butt joint.

Great tip! I crawled under the truck last night and saw the area your referring too, looks like it could be the best place to shorten it up. All I have left to remove is the S10 cab, I'm hoping to remove it today and Ill have a better look. So next newbie question, according the the web the s10 LBRC wheelbase is 117.9 and the 52 SBRC is 116. since I'm having to shorten the chassis anyway which WB should I go for?

Great thread by the way! Wealth of knowledge!

[skymangs]

Originally Posted by motorhead153

Great tip! I crawled under the truck last night and saw the area your referring too, looks like it could be the best place to shorten it up. All I have left to remove is the S10 cab, I'm hoping to remove it today and Ill have a better look. So next newbie question, according the the web the s10 LBRC wheelbase is 117.9 and the 52 SBRC is 116. since I'm having to shorten the chassis anyway which WB should I go for?

Great thread by the way! Wealth of knowledge!

make it 117. the stock truck had the rear axle 1" forward of centered in the rear wheelwell. This was supposedly done so that when the truck had a heavy load the wheels would be centered. but who are we kidding, we would never put a heavy load in them! 117" is what you want.

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by skymangs

make it 117. the stock truck had the rear axle 1" forward of centered in the rear wheelwell. This was supposedly done so that when the truck had a heavy load the wheels would be centered. but who are we kidding, we would never put a heavy load in them! 117" is what you want.

well and the angle of the s10 control arms up front pull the wheels back when you lower it, so going with 117 also helps that problem if you are planning on lowering it