Project Vitamin C-10

[70 Suburban]

if your lifters did bleed down. just pull them out and soak them in oil overnight.guess i was a little slow

[Strodder]

Originally Posted by 70 Suburban

if your lifters did bleed down. just pull them out and soak them in oil overnight.guess i was a little slow

Beat you to it.

[Alan's Classic]

Thanks for the input on lifters. My cousin called me back plus I got some help from the engine forum to reinforce what my cousin said. I over tightened the lifters by about a round and waited for the oil to bled out of it. That was the problem they were full of oil. It was simple but confused me

I found out my cousin has a 68 camaro with a 540 Kieth Black engine. He's coming to the next cruise in. I want a ride. I will get pics.

Also found out today that the federal government had the oil makers remove certain components like zinc. Because the stuff was plugging catylitic converters. That has resulted in alot of flat tappet cams failing. I've heard it from 3 different people in the past few days (2 engine builders). My cousin runs rotella diesel oil. It still has the ingredients in it. Has anyone else heard of this? Or you could ad this for about $12 a bottle. One engine builder uses it, I think I would use rotella



Got my oil pump and pan on tonight.

[Strodder]

I always coated everything with assembly lube. Never had a problem. But it's been a long, long, long time since I use to rebuild engines. With all these new chemicals out now, I wouldn't know what's the best to use anymore.

[Chevysdominate]

Originally Posted by Alan's Classic

Thanks for the input on lifters. My cousin called me back plus I got some help from the engine forum to reinforce what my cousin said. I over tightened the lifters by about a round and waited for the oil to bled out of it. That was the problem they were full of oil. It was simple but confused me

I found out my cousin has a 68 camaro with a 540 Kieth Black engine. He's coming to the next cruise in. I want a ride. I will get pics.

Also found out today that the federal government had the oil makers remove certain components like zinc. Because the stuff was plugging catylitic converters. That has resulted in alot of flat tappet cams failing. I've heard it from 3 different people in the past few days (2 engine builders). My cousin runs rotella diesel oil. It still has the ingredients in it. Has anyone else heard of this? Or you could ad this for about $12 a bottle. One engine builder uses it, I think I would use rotella

Got my oil pump and pan on tonight.

All the big automakers have internal service bulletins warning against using new oils in flat tappet camshaft engines (I've seen the GM bulletin with my own two eyes). I had to rebuild my 400 two different times because of a flattened cam. The third revision of the engine is still alive and kicking strong after i used an additive given to me by a gm mechanic. You don't need to use additives all the time, but you should use it for the first couple hundred/thousand miles. With all that being said, I have seen a fair number of engines do just fine with no additives at all. I personally wouldn't risk it though

[Captainfab]

The absense of zinc in most motor oils, including diesel specific oils, has been discussed several times over in the Engine and Drivetrain section. Personally I wouldn't risk a flat tappet failure and use the additive all the time. It would be cheaper than a rebuild.

That oil pump issue has me stumped.....never seen that. As jgh64pkup said all SBC oil pumps are interchangeable regardless of the crank. The only thing I can think of related to the oil pump that would need to be different is the intermediate shaft between the distributor and the pump needs to be correct for the 3.75 stroke crank. Is that an aftermarket crank Alan? Is the interference a large amount or could a little grinding on the oil pump take care of it. Yeah I know that shouldn't have to be done. Can you get a hold of another pump to check to see if it is just an oddball pump?

[jonzcustomshop]

there was a bunch of different threads about the zinc oil on the h.a.m.b., just search oil,zinc ,and hamb on google, and you should get some of them.

[kizer]

ooooooohhh Pictures. I'm paying attention again.

[madmatt54]

We always use plenty of assembly lube and this stuff:

http://www.daymotorsports.com/produc...N_OIL_ADDITIVE

in our 383 flat tappet race motors, 13:1 compression with a good size cam and lots of spring pressure. It seems to be working good and we just use conventional oil.

From what I've heard, even the diesel oils are now under the thumb of the government and may not contain all of the chemicals that they used to.

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by jonzcustomshop

there was a bunch of different threads about the zinc oil on the h.a.m.b., just search oil,zinc ,and hamb on google, and you should get some of them.

Originally Posted by ChiefRocka

Alan, its coming together, looking good man !!!

Thanks Jon and John

Originally Posted by Strodder

I always coated everything with assembly lube. Never had a problem. But it's been a long, long, long time since I use to rebuild engines. With all these new chemicals out now, I wouldn't know what's the best to use anymore.

I used assy/break in lube when I first ran it. That was eight years ago. I too have been out of touch with motor building and the different chemicals.

Originally Posted by kizer

ooooooohhh Pictures. I'm paying attention again.

Sorry, I lost you with all of the words. I won't do that again.

Originally Posted by madmatt54

We always use plenty of assembly lube and this stuff:

http://www.daymotorsports.com/produc...N_OIL_ADDITIVE

in our 383 flat tappet race motors, 13:1 compression with a good size cam and lots of spring pressure. It seems to be working good and we just use conventional oil.

From what I've heard, even the diesel oils are now under the thumb of the government and may not contain all of the chemicals that they used to.

I heard about the diesel oil being scrutinized today. I guess if diesel oil will not work at least we have the additive. Thanks for the link.

OK, I'm a dumb a$$, kind of. I installed the oil pump and pan last night. I went to adjust the valves tonight. I rotated the crank and it came to a solid stop. What the heck I thought. I removed the pan and found the Melling M-55A oil pump in the way of the crank counter weight. I should have spun it over last night. (Hind sight is a B&tch) I then looked in the box that it came in and found a little note. It reads "Any high performance application especially those using solid motor mounts require the installation of an M Select performance oil pump" Don't know if that applies to me or not.

[jgh64pkup]

ive never seen anything like that are the counterweights bigger on the 383 crank who is the manufacturer

[jgh64pkup]

it shows the pump is a z28 pump the z28s came with a 301 dz which is a smaller crank and smaller counterweights so that could be your problem

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by jgh64pkup

ive never seen anything like that are the counterweights bigger on the 383 crank who is the manufacturer

The 383 crank is actually a 400 crank. There are some clearance issues with the block and rods and the oil pan (sometimes). I have ran this engine before the way it is except for the new oil pump. I took the oil pump off for another engine if anyone is wondering.

[64Fugly]

Hey Alan, Heck of a job your are doing there, I am so very jeleous that I had to convince my fiance to let me get my 65 out of storage put new tags on it and park it in the garage to start working on it. I got the deed done. It just cost me updating one of the rooms. new walls, new floor, etc......

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by Strodder

Weird stuff, I'm glad you got it figured out. The latest problem I had with this 59 Ford Panel I'm working on. The customer gave me a 302 engine with a C-6 tranny to install. First problem was the 302 had the wrong flywheel. It was too small and the starter wouldn't mesh with the ring gear. I had to research, and buy the correct flex plate. I installed the new flex plate and put the trans back on the engine. Then when I went to bolt up the torque converter it didn't fit. The guy said it was a special made converter for the C-6 transmission, and his 302 engine with an RV cam. I took the transmission & flex plate off again, and brought both the converter, and flex plate down to the local Transmission Shop. He said the torque converter wasn't even for a C-6 or a C-4. It was for an early Mustang. My customer got screwed. He bought this converter for $500.00 years ago, and the guy he bought it from died, and went out of business. What I hate is I'm stuck with the problem, and the customer wants me to feel sorry for him. I spent all this time for no money. Good thing I found it out before I installed the engine and trans in the truck. Now I have to get a new converter. You bet I'll make money on it. F**ken FORDS!! Sorry for ranting on.

Rant on Brother get it all out. I dread those days. I have only done mainly collision repairs for family members. I did do the Miata for someone a little while back. All I had to do was the paint and body work. If I ever get my truck done I will be in the market to do someone elses restoration. I was thinking it would be up too them to locate and pickup all parts for their restoration. Unless they want to pay me by the hour to do so. I know how much time I spend locating parts for my project.

Originally Posted by daverod

Nicely put and I hear ya. Damn people anyways.

Originally Posted by 64Fugly

Hey Alan, Heck of a job your are doing there, I am so very jeleous that I had to convince my fiance to let me get my 65 out of storage put new tags on it and park it in the garage to start working on it. I got the deed done. It just cost me updating one of the rooms. new walls, new floor, etc......

Thanks Fugly, Congrats on digging it out of storage. Make sure too take lots of pix and show us what your doing. I hear ya about updating the house. Read on......

Things are kind of slow in the shop due too getting the walkway done from the house too the shop. No more walking thru mud and hearing about it later.



Now the time has come to get the kitchen cabinets done. If ya'll don't remember she wants them painted black. Did some experimenting with spraying oil base paint thru my automotive gun. It makes the job a little easier. But it is going to take some time to get it all done. We have to roll the base cabinets with a foam roller, because it's too much trouble to remove. Here are the first doors that got painted.



In between all of that I got the engine lower end buttoned up and painted. Still have to adjust the valves and install intake.

[shortbed70]

I'm gettin ready to do the walkway myself especially after today with 2.5" of rain or more.....

[Strodder]

I charge $40.00 pr hr, and here in So Cal that's cheap. But I'm a sucker. I still charge them what I thing it should be worth, even though I spend a lot of time on it. Like today I took apart a pedal cluster, then wire wheeled it. Then I sand blasted it, primered it, and painted all the parts. Then put it all back together. What should I charge for that. It took me 4 hours. Should I charge the cheap bastard $160.00 for it? It doesn't sound right. I think around $50.00 would be fare. I loose!! And to top all that he will probably think that it's too much. At least I have work during these bad times.
Walk way looks nice Allan. I did the same thing with paving bricks. The wify was complaining about the dirt in the house. I also got side tracked by planting some fruit trees.

[jgh64pkup]

glad you got the oil pump figured out
what type of tranny and rear gear are you goin with

[70 Suburban]

I dont remember did u weld up the seams in your hood.

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by Strodder

I charge $40.00 pr hr, and here in So Cal that's cheap. But I'm a sucker. I still charge them what I thing it should be worth, even though I spend a lot of time on it. Like today I took apart a pedal cluster, then wire wheeled it. Then I sand blasted it, primered it, and painted all the parts. Then put it all back together. What should I charge for that. It took me 4 hours. Should I charge the cheap bastard $160.00 for it? It doesn't sound right. I think around $50.00 would be fare. I loose!! And to top all that he will probably think that it's too much. At least I have work during these bad times.
Walk way looks nice Allan. I did the same thing with paving bricks. The wify was complaining about the dirt in the house. I also got side tracked by planting some fruit trees.

I agree with everything you said. Every situation I guess is different. I look at it like this. They come to us for a service. They have the option to do it them selves or pay the price. I know I sound like a hard A$$, but it's just the way I see it. Like on the Miata I gave the owner a choice. He could take the power mirrors apart (pita on miatas) or he could pay me to do it. He did it himself.

Originally Posted by jgh64pkup

glad you got the oil pump figured out
what type of tranny and rear gear are you goin with

I get to work this morning and Melling had sent me an email for me too call them. I had sent them an email with the new M-55 pump installed. I called them and he recommended that I didn't run that pump on a performance motor. He suggested that I run the 10553 pump. He said the M-55 pumps are prone to breaking. I told him my engine is balanced and is on rubber mounts and it is all together and painted now. I told him I will take my chances. Now that will always be in my mind everytime I stomp on it.

I will be running a TCI350 with a 2500 stall and a 3.42 eaton posi.

Originally Posted by 70 Suburban

I dont remember did u weld up the seams in your hood.

I haven't done it yet, but I will when I get to that point.

[Captainfab]

Originally Posted by Alan's Classic

I get to work this morning and Melling had sent me an email for me too call them. I had sent them an email with the new M-55 pump installed. I called them and he recommended that I didn't run that pump on a performance motor. He suggested that I run the 10553 pump. He said the M-55 pumps are prone to breaking. I told him my engine is balanced and is on rubber mounts and it is all together and painted now. I told him I will take my chances. Now that will always be in my mind everytime I stomp on it.

I will be running a TCI350 with a 2500 stall and a 3.42 eaton posi.

I wouldn't worry about it Alan. I've used several M-55's and M-55HV's and never had one break. Did he have an explanation for the interference with the other pump?

[shrunken66stroker]

a little red pin striping would look nice on those cabinets.

[jgh64pkup]

it should be alright what hp numbers is it going to make

[Strodder]

Originally Posted by shrunken66stroker

a little red pin striping would look nice on those cabinets.

And don't forget the BILLET handles, or should I say CHROME handles.

[70 Suburban]

I just did my good yesterday. way e-zer than the bed...I think I am going to do the fenders too.. I like alot of what you have going on here. Giving me lots of inspiration and ideas to work with.. only problem is you inspired me so much I stopped working on my blazer.. I guess the grass is always greener.