1967 Mustang Coupe Build (Electra)

[Dieselwrencher]

Very nice F100!

[JRANGER]

Spent all day working on my mustang disc conversion and found out the following.

-I have Granda Spindles
-I need diff bearings for such (Used the drums to fit the driver side since they were good)
-I need diff tie rod ends now or adapters for them.
-The Pass side drum is being a pain in my butt and is still on
-I need new brake lines as i broke one that was siezed

DAMN THIS FRANKENSTEINED CAR!!!!!

[JRANGER]

With a bunch of prying at the top i finally have the Passenger side ready to put together but i have to go get a race tool and remove these old races from my disc for the Granda bearings...

[67ChevyRedneck]

That truck is beyond cool.

I always thought it was funny the 53-55 look more modern than the 1 year only 56 cab which had wrap around glass. The 53-55's with the flat glass look "newer."

...and I agree, mustangs are a pain in the ass. Mine got a 3.25 trac loc rear end upgrade and new exhaust. I'm way behind on my build thread. It also has new duals... sounds like a hot rod now...

[JRANGER]

Originally Posted by 67ChevyRedneck

That truck is beyond cool.

I always thought it was funny the 53-55 look more modern than the 1 year only 56 cab which had wrap around glass. The 53-55's with the flat glass look "newer."

...and I agree, mustangs are a pain in the ass. Mine got a 3.25 trac loc rear end upgrade and new exhaust. I'm way behind on my build thread. It also has new duals... sounds like a hot rod now...

Nice!!! I know putting an exhaust on mine made a huge difference. I still need to work on my rear diff...I have a 3.25 chunk for it to replace the 2.8. Its just leaking a bit but nothing major.

Currently waiting on my new bearings and i need to go buy a race install kit

[67ChevyRedneck]

I wish I had gone with an open 3.25, my car doesn't have the balls to spin both of the fat tires I put on it anyway. The trac loc is a little noisier than an open diff.

She definitely sounds a lot meaner though:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5trvCaXdmnc

[JRANGER]

oh yeah, has a nice grumble

[Dieselwrencher]

Jesse, that sounds very nice!

[67ChevyRedneck]

Thanks guys! I had two different people ask last year on the Power Tour if my car was a straight six... (was incredibly quiet)... shouldn't make that mistake this year!

[JRANGER]

Wooo got my new bearings yesterday, so i pulled and installed a set of Races for the first time. Got the passenger side ready for install. Once i finish it ill remove the drivers side and put the new bushings in it as well

[JRANGER]

Well i managed to get the passenger side all installed and back together and started on the driver side only to realize i forgot to put the bearing seal on....FML

So i completed the Drivers side and then turned around and took the whole passenger side back apart and installed the seal.

I also got my Mustang Steve Granada Spindle/Tie Rod adapter sleeves in and installed those.

Ordered some stainless lines since i broke the one line and i also ordered a small 8 drawer toolbox (Basically a topper). Now that i have a garage i need to get organized because loosing stuff on the top on my work bench is driving me insane

[67ChevyRedneck]

That was one thing I double and triple checked. I also made sure I didn't forget the plate that holds everything on when I pressed the new bearings on. Those bearings and seals have gotten crazy expensive, I didn't want to have to redo anything.

[JRANGER]

Yeah, i guess it happens but just glad i realized it then rather then down the road...

Also bad news....Damn brake lines are on Back Order for 2 weeks...UGH!!!

Always something..

[JRANGER]

Forgot to mention, i got my new bearings off RockAuto...Instead of 12 a piece plus tax i paid $20 for all 4 bearings shipped. They were like $2.89 per bearing or so

[JRANGER]

Got the Master off tonight but had to cut the brake lines other then the rear line. Thank goodness for small favors....That was the only line that would come out of the prop valve.

Luckily the front kit comes with the new master lines too, so i should be able to get everything replaced.

[JRANGER]

Still waiting on my break lines but ordered a XO Vision universal electric window kit. Know of a guy that used it on his 65 and it is $50 so i figured id give it a shot

[JRANGER]

wooo my brake lines finally showed up, only took 3 weeks!! My power window kit comes in today so i should have a good weekend

[JRANGER]

Well i have the master all reinstalled, new brake lines installed and at this point it just needs the brake bled. It was a royal pain in the ASS!.

1: Never do i want to reinstall and brake switch and master in a manual car. Jesus that was an awkward space to work. At one point my arm cramped from the awkward angle.

2: i hate brake lines, i hate different designs.... I didnt realize the disc master had diff threads so i had to use adapters. So the i had to bend one line to the prop valve and the other one had to be adjusted.

3: Whoever designed the speedway Propvalve with stop lamp SUCKS ASS!!! How do you design something that doesnt allow you to get a Flare nut wrench in between that sensor? What in the actual FU!! I had to grind the **** out of my wrench to get it to fit as i couldnt get the sensor out just to get them tight and to stop leaing.

4: WTF Autozone...3/16th couple sucks! bought it, tightened my connections and everything leaked on both sides. Finally got the old couple seperated with vise scrips and put it in place and it worked wonderful!!! BLAH BLAH BLAH

So yeah brakes are my least fav thing


Also been working on Electric Windows. $35 on ebay or $50 on Amazon and you can get XO VIsion P203 kit
https://www.amazon.com/Window-XO-Vis.../dp/B005AQOL5E

It works good and just takes so time. Its a bit easier to install on a 66 then the 67 but it works well as long as your windows arent really jammed up. I recommend greasing the tracks first and getting them operating smooth.

Heres a clip of them working https://youtu.be/auDAlszx64M

[JRANGER]

Over the weekend i got a lot more done and even got to drive her some.

Got new bumper brackets installed. Replaced the 68 Strut Rod on the drivers side with a new 67 rod. Calibrated the Speedo and Got the brakes tuned in.

So in driving i have horrible bump steer which im pretty sure an alignment will fix but man it was scary at times. I am going to take it next week to get this done. From what im told is the local Gateway Tire here in Columbia should be able to set me up.

Only thing i ran into was it did get over 220 on the temp which i was doing a lot of stop and go so it may not be a issue but def something ill be watching

[JRANGER]

Well today i took it to get aligned and had my wheels put on.

I asked for the following:
These specifications are in order of importance.

1. NO more than .25 degrees difference between driver’s side and passenger’s side.
2. +2.0 to +3.5 degrees caster.
3. -.5 to 0 degrees camber. No positive camber, please. There is no problem having a slight variation from driver’s side to passenger’s side to account for the crown in the road.
4. 1/16" to 1/8” toe in

They could not get positive caster with my car. I do believe i have a 1" drop spring with the Shelby drop but have to verify.

This is what I was told and given:
LF CROSS RF
Camber -.4 -.4 .0
Caster 0 .2 .1
Toe .04 .08 .04


This is what they said:
1) Cannot adj caster any further positive on L/F so set R/F to match
2) Camber at Maximum Position
3) L/F wheel sits 1" forward over R/F

Now the car drives a million times better then when i took it in and im happy with the job they did but my question is this:

Why cant they get Positive caster on it? Is something wrong?
And my biggest concern..Why in the F does my L/F sit and if forward? Is that normal?

[JRANGER]

Other then the positive caster i think its good. It actually drives pretty damn good in comparison to anything ive had it do. Also i measured from the rear of the fender to the tire and its 4" on each side...So im guessing my fenders are weird

Installed my radiator today and it def seems like it staying cooler. It got up to 190 maybe 200 at one point but that was sitting in the garage and as soon as i hit the street back to 180

Ignore my zip tie, it wasnt sitting flush in the center causing the fan to rub so that was my solution

[Dieselwrencher]

It looks really nice with those wheels. That is weird about the fender deal.

[JRANGER]

So im building a new console

[flashed]

The console is going to look great ,still watching .

[67ChevyRedneck]

Originally Posted by JRANGER

Now the car drives a million times better then when i took it in and im happy with the job they did but my question is this:

Why cant they get Positive caster on it? Is something wrong?
And my biggest concern..Why in the F does my L/F sit and if forward? Is that normal?

Because it's a vintage mustang. It's a common issue I've read on VMF and one of the reasons I got the adjustable strut rods for the lower control arm.

When you do the shelby drop you have to remove shims to get the camber back in just to get back to where it was because lowering the upper a-arm pushes the camber out. Well, back then, I believe they used a + camber with the bias ply tires, so Ford didn't leave a lot of room between the inner fender and upper control arm. Basically, on my car, I have no shims on one bolt and a small amount on the other to get the + caster and keep - camber, I think mine is only at -0.25*

Even with my adjustable lower control arms I think I was only able to get about 1.25 - 1.5* + Caster without screwing up the camber.

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