Danny Boy is BAACK! w/ '55 Big Window

[hp1957]

Dan, Rec. IFS for freeway driving. I'm using Bill's Hot Rod Co. a/c & alt bracket on my 57 chevy stepside mounts on waterpump & intake manifold. P/S pump & bracket you can find at the wrecking yard.

Big cam in your truck, Use a remote vacuum reservoir or hydroboost brake master cylinder.
Mounted remote vacuum reservoir on my bro 67 chevelle ss convertible & power brakes work great.

Harvey
1957 Chevy Stepside
1958 GMC Fleetside C4 build thread:http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=535686&page=3

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by hp1957

Dan, Rec. IFS for freeway driving. I'm using Bill's Hot Rod Co. a/c & alt bracket on my 57 chevy stepside mounts on waterpump & intake manifold. P/S pump & bracket you can find at the wrecking yard.

Big cam in your truck, Use a remote vacuum reservoir or hydroboost brake master cylinder.
Mounted remote vacuum reservoir on my bro 67 chevelle ss convertible & power brakes work great.

Harvey
1957 Chevy Stepside
1958 GMC Fleetside C4 build thread:http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=535686&page=3

Hi Harvey. Thanks for thinking of me.

Yup, I'm aware of Bill's brackets. IF I use them I think I'd buy the full set as pictured to sort of "balance" the appearance. In that photo it looks like the AC compressor and alternator really stick up high. Not sure how I'd feel about that but it may be the only alternative.

As for hydroboost; yeah I'm aware that's an option too. But I think I should probably consider swapping the cam before doing all that. Then the truck would run better too!

Remote vacuum reservoir? I am not familiar with that but it must be just a big can of some type, huh? I'll have to Google that and do some reading. Thanks again. - Dan

[fabguy]

Dan,
Bills hot rods is right down the street from me. Probably 1/2 mile away so it is very local to you too.
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[mknittle]

I like some of these. not cheap though.
http://marchperf.com/index.html

you are correct on the vacuum reservoir some factory ones looked like un opened sliced pineapple cans with a couple tubes soldered on them. I think I have one I'll see if I can find it and get a picture.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Outstanding....but not cheap. Plus I don't see any mention of whether they fit early heads without bolt holes in the heads?

[mknittle]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

Outstanding....but not cheap. Plus I don't see any mention of whether they fit early heads without bolt holes in the heads?

That makes it tougher for sure. I am having the same problem with my 250.
Looks like I will be making some brackets. Oh well the fun continues.

[Russell Ashley]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

Outstanding....but not cheap. Plus I don't see any mention of whether they fit early heads without bolt holes in the heads?

If you are using the original style front motor mounts you can't use that style mount for the power steering pump either.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Honestly? I haven't the slightest idea what motor mounts I have, DUH!

I welded shut three holes on each door panel today. The original owner had installed some pretty ugly (and huge!) rubber armrests with molded in door pulls. I ground the welds down with a flap disc - TRYING not to get too hot, not sure I succeeded - and mixed up a little Bondo to smooth things out a bit.

Tomorrow I'll sand and prime in preparation for my "final" (for a while) rattle can two-tone paint job in my revised (temporary) color palette of Rustoleum Oregano and Almond.

I forgot to take a picture of this work but took this generic one after washing it:

[Number 9]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

Honestly? I haven't the slightest idea what motor mounts I have, DUH!

I welded shut three holes on each door panel today. The original owner had installed some pretty ugly (and huge!) rubber armrests with molded in door pulls. I ground the welds down with a flap disc - TRYING not to get too hot, not sure I succeeded - and mixed up a little Bondo to smooth things out a bit.

Tomorrow I'll sand and prime in preparation for my "final" (for a while) rattle can two-tone paint job in my revised (temporary) color palette of Rustoleum Oregano and Almond.

I forgot to take a picture of this work but took this generic one after washing it:

Looks great. You have a nice truck there.

[Baldeagle SR]

Very nice.
Rich

[Daze57]

looks v v nice

[Dan in Pasadena]

Thanks guys. She's still at "nose bleed" height. Not sure how soon I'll be able to afford to do anything about that? Maybe just pull a few leaves out of the pack - the only problem with that is the front has 5 leaves on one side and six(!) on the other.

Do I only need shorter U bolts to try this out? Yes, I know to get 6 degree caster wedges at NAPA. But I've never searched for U bolts before so will my local chain auto parts store have them? Home Depot? OSH?

[mknittle]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

Thanks guys. She's still at "nose bleed" height. Not sure how soon I'll be able to afford to do anything about that? Maybe just pull a few leaves out of the pack - the only problem with that is the front has 5 leaves on one side and six(!) on the other.

Do I only need shorter U bolts to try this out? Yes, I know to get 6 degree caster wedges at NAPA. But I've never searched for U bolts before so will my local chain auto parts store have them? Home Depot? OSH?

U bolts and center bolts. Napa should Have them. if you need wedges I would get the steel ones from a 4X4 shop. some are cast aluminum and break apart. they can also cause electrolysis. 6 degrees of caster seems like quite a bit . I have always had good results with 4 degrees. Remember that the more caster the harder the steering. Especially if you have steering by Armstrong.

[Rude Dude]

Depends on how much thread you got left, most leaf spring shops can get the square style u-bolts longer and if you buy them from truck shop you can measure them at the store before pulling them a part. The front leaves should have the same amount of leaves on both sides. Common practice in the old days if a spring broke they would just pull a spring pack from junk yard and just swap it in not caring because it was a work truck or slide an extra spring to level the front end. I would pull them both off flip them upside down and measure the suspected bad spring arch and replace the spring that spring pack.

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

Thanks guys. She's still at "nose bleed" height. Not sure how soon I'll be able to afford to do anything about that? Maybe just pull a few leaves out of the pack - the only problem with that is the front has 5 leaves on one side and six(!) on the other.

Do I only need shorter U bolts to try this out? Yes, I know to get 6 degree caster wedges at NAPA. But I've never searched for U bolts before so will my local chain auto parts store have them? Home Depot? OSH?

[Dan in Pasadena]

Thanks mknittle!

I'd always read 6 degrees was THE way to go. Anyone else have an opinion on this? I don't have steering by Armstrong, I have steering by King Kong! lol.

Originally Posted by Rude Dude

... The front leaves should have the same amount of leaves on both sides...

DUH! Yeah, I figured that out.

It SEEMS to sit level, but my driveway isn't all that level side-to-side or front-to-back. I've been assuming one leaf broke and they simply pulled it out. But I suppose back in the day when these were "just a truck" it could have been that one side was sagging (for any number of reasons) and they pulled a leaf from the opposite side just to level it out without bothering to address whatever the real problem was.

I was hoping to not have to pull both the leaf packs out cause IF I have to do that I'll be very tempted to buy new lowering springs from The Truck Shop - and that IS spendy.

Originally Posted by Rude Dude

...Common practice in the old days if a spring broke they would just pull a spring pack from junk yard and just swap it in not caring because it was a work truck or slide an extra spring to level the front end...

Yeah, either of these scenarios make more sense than my ideas.

Originally Posted by Rude Dude

...I would pull them both off flip them upside down and measure the suspected bad spring arch and replace that spring pack..

Rudy,
Since I've never pulled leaf packs before: Just how big a pain in the balls is this? I have a strong 1/2" impact driver so if it's just brute strength, no problem - I think. What's the usual hassle, if there is one?

Checking The Truck Shop website:
http://www.truckandcarshop.com/trucks47_59/t47_097.html

This looks like another "slippery slope" project. Potentially 6 of the $13 kits & 2 of the $17 kits ($112) OR possibly up to as many as 8 of the $34-$35
($280!) shackle kits... or oooh! The whiz bang $65 2-1/2" lowering shackles. Then, "while I'm in there" - paint and the poly material, yada, yada!

[mknittle]

[QUOTE=Dan in Pasadena;6169529]Thanks mknittle!

I'd always read 6 degrees was THE way to go. Anyone else have an opinion on this? I don't have steering by Armstrong, I have steering by King Kong! lol.




DUH! Yeah, I figured that out.

It SEEMS to sit level, but my driveway isn't all that level side-to-side or front-to-back. I've been assuming one leaf broke and they simply pulled it out. But I suppose back in the day when these were "just a truck" it could have been that one side was sagging (for any number of reasons) and they pulled a leaf from the opposite side just to level it out without bothering to address whatever the real problem was.

I was hoping to not have to pull both the leaf packs out cause IF I have to do that I'll be very tempted to buy new lowering springs from The Truck Shop - and that IS spendy.



Yeah, either of these scenarios make more sense than my ideas.



Rudy,
Since I've never pulled leaf packs before: Just how big a pain in the balls is this? I have a strong 1/2" impact driver so if it's just brute strength, no problem - I think. What's the usual hassle, if there is one?


It isn't that hard. I have re-arched jeep springs and replaced center bolts on other trucks. I put a good sized "c" clamp on the spring when taking out the center bolt to prevent possible injury when/if the spring has tension and suddenly comes loose on the last thread of the nut/bolt.
The center bolt comes longer than you need and is used to compress the leafs then excess is cut off. so when you take it apart you only have a half inch at the most of thread where in may have been compressed an inch or more. If there is a add a leaf quite a bit more!

[Dan in Pasadena]

Thank you No. 9.

At the little local car night at In 'N Out tonight a couple guys seemed surprised that the paint was rattle can stuff. I wish I could say I have some special trick with spray cans but I don't. I guess I guess it's just good stuff.

[Number 9]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

Thank you No. 9.

At the little local car night at In 'N Out tonight a couple guys seemed surprised that the paint was rattle can stuff. I wish I could say I have some special trick with spray cans but I don't. I guess I guess it's just good stuff.

I did rattle can jade green rustolium on my 59 and it came out real nice.
Sad I'll never finish it. Would have been fun.

[mknittle]

Truck looks good Dan. I like that style wheels.

[Kim57]

The truck looks real nice.
Kim

[Dan in Pasadena]

So I assume the procedure is jack up & remove wheels, then....what?

Take my impact gun to the shackle bolts and lower the springs & axle as one or remove the axle before dismounting spring packs from frame?

Either way, I put big C clamps on the spring pack before backing off the center bolt, right?
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[mknittle]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

So I assume the procedure is jack up & remove wheels, then....what?

Take my impact gun to the shackle bolts and lower the springs & axle as one or remove the axle before dismounting spring packs from frame?

Either way, I put big C clamps on the spring pack before backing off the center bolt, right?
Posted via Mobile Device

Yeah on the c clamp. just in case.

I like to take the axle off first then the springs It is just easier for me because I almost always work alone. and more lighter parts are easier than one big clumsy mass of parts. I learned that as a mobile mechanic for a tree service/logging company.

If you aren't doing anything but springs just block the axle so the brake hoses don't stretch and you have enough room to work. if you can. That way you don't have to mess with the mess of taking the brake hoses off.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by mknittle

...If you aren't doing anything but springs just block the axle so the brake hoses don't stretch and you have enough room to work. if you can. That way you don't have to mess with the mess of taking the brake hoses off.

"If I'm not doing anything but springs..."

See, of course I INTEND to only do the springs but the "slippery slope" starts. My brake hoses are pretty checked and the fittings are rusty. So, "while I'm in there" I'll want to change the brake hoses: 4x$17=$68.

At the very least I'll be pulling leaves which possibly means new U bolts, either shorter ones or replacements for broken ones.

And that front mismatch makes me wonder if I won't have to replace the entire pack or have them re-arched for a sagging one.

[mknittle]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

"If I'm not doing anything but springs..."

See, of course I INTEND to only do the springs but the "slippery slope" starts. My brake hoses are pretty checked and the fittings are rusty. So, "while I'm in there" I'll want to change the brake hoses: 4x$17=$68.

At the very least I'll be pulling leaves which possibly means new U bolts, either shorter ones or replacements for broken ones.

And that front mismatch makes me wonder if I won't have to replace the entire pack or have them re-arched for a sagging one.

I know what you mean Dan. The "slippery slope" often becomes the greased incline into the bottomless money pit. If that is the case you will have plenty of company down here.

[Number 9]

I put them together with a long bolt and clamp and put the right bolt in. Will mono leaf lower the front? Will long shackles in the rear change the pinion angle?
Your truck looks so good that if it were mine I would leave the paint the way it is. I mega like it..