Trying to make Junky perhaps just a little bit Funky...

[DD1]

Had a busy weekend.

Last night I prepped the truck for Round 3 of fixing the oil leak, and removed the water pump which was also leaking. Borrowed a Lift plate from a friend and mounted it to where the carb goes; decided lifting the engine might be easier than jacking it up.

And it seems that the 3rd time was actually the charm. After getting everything reassembled and starting it up, there were no leaks from the oil pan, rear seal, or water pump. Changing the Rear Main Seal was significant for me because it's the type of job I was always afraid to do myself. Also took the opportunity to clean and paint the front of the engine while everything was off.

Next I replaced the rear Cab Mounts. I originally purchased the Cab Mounts from Classic Parts years ago; when I finally needed to use them, the package had a mish-mosh of pieces and did not look like the photo on their website. I called them to find out what they were for, but it was too late to return anything. The rear of the cab has been too low and Rock Auto sells just the Bushing for the rear mount.

Not sure how easy it is to tell the difference, but it raised the cab 1-2". The Top is Before. The cab is touching the frame at the far ends of the hump in the middle.


Later in the day I had to modify my transmission shift linkage. Raising the rear of the cab required me to cut 3/4" off the shift rod. I still need to work on adjust the NSS to get it to sync with the gears properly. Right now, the truck starts when I'm in Park so I'm happy with that.


Saving the best for last, May 4 was my 50th birthday, and if you've been reading recently you might remember I was getting frustrated with the doors and subsequently the project as a whole. My best friend bought me a pair of aftermarket Door Frames for my 50th!

I know some people don't like aftermarket doors (or aftermarket anything for that matter), but working on the doors was setting me back significantly. The doors arrived last Tuesday 05/12 and I wasted no time mounting one of them. This weekend I test fitted a fender and after many adjustments, got them both to a place where I can live with it.

The new door actually fits better than the original door I had (not original to the cab, but to the truck), and will require less work on my part adjusting the cab corner, which I replaced without having anything fitted as a guide. Once I get the door and fender lined up, I plan to start on the rocker panel.

First I had to retread all of the hinge bolts; I will probably buy a new set.


Then just a lot of fitting, adjusting, and removing and reinstalling the fender. I was surprised I found the Big A** Bolt and had to do some additional cutting to get the fender lined up for it. This is the end result for now...

[cornerstone]

What an awesome gift! Not many people in the world have friends like that...
The door looks like it fits well!

So glad to hear the oil leak repair was finally a success, hopefully that put a little wind in your sails.

[DD1]

Originally Posted by cornerstone

What an awesome gift! Not many people in the world have friends like that...
The door looks like it fits well!

So glad to hear the oil leak repair was finally a success, hopefully that put a little wind in your sails.

Thanks, Brian! I only have one friend like that and I was surprised when he offered, but he was hoping it would get me re-motivated. We have been friends probably close to 40 years; I was in the 4th grade when we met. Between the doors and fenders lining up decently and getting the leaks fixed, I have gotten a new surge of motivation.

I thought I posted yesterday, but apparently I imagined it. I started cleaning and blasting the internal parts for the door so they are ready when I need them. Also started looking for small parts I will need for the other side like the Fender Mount Plate, the thick washer for the fender, and the Big A** Washers for the bed side. I am missing on mount plate and one BAW, but will keep looking as I don't need them right now.

Yesterday I drove it off the ramps to straighten them out and because I wanted too. It moved on it's own power for the 2nd time this year with no leaks this time. It's tricky backing it up on the ramp with no bed to weigh it down, the wheels want to slip and shift. I might try putting some Anti-Slip Tape on the ramp to see if it helps. Once I get some parts on the truck for good I will have more room and can center the ramp in the garage.

My garage is a mess, but here is proof it moved.

[DD1]

It's going to seem like I'm all over the place and I pretty much am. I've been having trouble focusing on one thing and figuring out what to do next. My goal is to get the rocker panel fitted, but I want to have the door and fender lined up when I work on the rocker. Everything listed is grouped together by each project, but it's not in order it was done.

Let's start with the door and fender. I removed both again, blasted the fender and did a really crappy job painting it with Chassis Saver. Before I painted it, I welded a couple areas that had holes. I taped these areas when painting and a couple of spots that had bondo. One of the spots was not sanded properly, the other is decent. I don't see the point in removing existing bondo just to do it again; I hope to sand it so it's even with the rest of the fender. I felt underneath the bondo spots and it feels like there were some small dents/dings they covered up.

Fender after blasting:


Area's I welded up. My welding skills are improving somewhat, but the bar was really low to begin with. My grinding skills not so much.


I forgot to take a pic of the bad paint job. Oh well, I'll post it tomorrow. I reinstalled the fender and made some more adjustments. Got some body shims from HF and shimmed the bottom fender bolt and a couple of shims under the radiator.

Lower fender was a 1/8 and 1/16 shim, no shims at top of fender, and two 1/8 shims under the radiator.



I installed the striker to see how it would close and it wouldn't. After removing the striker and the plate a few times, I figured out that neither was the problem. This is the first modification I will need to make to the door and it's a minor one that I can live with. The wheel that turns in the plate is hitting the door frame and won't move. Tomorrow I'll take it out and grind the door frame a little.



I ordered a new turn signal switch from Rock Auto. That was a pain to install, but I finally got it after removing it 3 times. I was concerned because I could not find any easy way to do it on a tilt column searching on the forum, but I was able to get it done without taking the whole column apart.

I nicked the insulation on a wire by mistake, but I don't think it's going to affect anything so I wrapped electrical tape around it. Forgot to take pics of the installed piece, but here's the nicked wire.



That's all for now. Will post more tomorrow. Trying to do a little everyday and take advantage of not being able to travel for work.

[cornerstone]

Originally Posted by DD1

I've been having trouble focusing on one thing and figuring out what to do next.
You and me both!


My goal is to get the rocker panel fitted, but I want to have the door and fender lined up when I work on the rocker.
I think your overall plan is good, but I'll add this for your consideration. From what I learned when doing this, I think the best method is to install the door so the gap at the B pillar is lined up where you like it... so that the latch closes without issue and the gaps are approximately uniform. After the door fits O.K. you're ready to line up your rocker panel. If you try to get the fender to fit before the door is where it needs to be, you'll just muddy the waters.

Hope this helps bud!

[crakarjax]

Originally Posted by cornerstone

Hope this helps bud!

+1 to that advice, start at the part that you can't adjust (b-pillar) and work your way out from there!

[DD1]

Originally Posted by cornerstone

I've been having trouble focusing on one thing and figuring out what to do next.
You and me both! Glad to know it's not just me!


I think your overall plan is good, but I'll add this for your consideration. From what I learned when doing this, I think the best method is to install the door so the gap at the B pillar is lined up where you like it... so that the latch closes without issue and the gaps are approximately uniform. After the door fits O.K. you're ready to line up your rocker panel. If you try to get the fender to fit before the door is where it needs to be, you'll just muddy the waters.

Hope this helps bud!

That makes a lot of sense and I appreciate the insight. I had planned to have the door looking right, as well as the fender, before starting the rocker panel. Your advice about lining up the gap at the B pillar and making sure the latch works well is helpful.

Originally Posted by crakarjax

+1 to that advice, start at the part that you can't adjust (b-pillar) and work your way out from there!

Good to know. Appreciate the help. I will be sure to do that when I am test fitting the door and rocker.

Glad I decided to install the latch before moving forward. Thank you both for the tips.

Any advice on where to get a new speedometer cable that fits into a TH350 transmission? Having trouble finding information on the forum. I think I had to cut the original; didn't think it would be difficult to replace.

I have decided that my ultimate goal is to be able to drive it to the Rhinebeck Car Show in NY in May 2021. It does not have to be perfectly finished, but it needs to be drivable.

[DD1]

I followed the advice of Cornerstone and CrackerJax and I think it worked out pretty well. I hate that you have to remove the fender to get to the outside hinge bolts, but I removed it and focused on the door gap at the B pillar and how it closed and latched. I grinded the latch opening with a Dremel to allow room for the latch to move.

1ST Attempt:
I got the door lines to match up, but it came at the sacrifice of the top right corner of the door which was way too close to the drip rail. I thought I was going to have to choose between perfect door lines with the top edge too close OR slightly off door lines with the top edge in a good position.


After messing with it a bit more, I tried lowering the latch strike plate a smidge and everything lined up to a spot where I was happy with it. I had to remove the shims I placed under the radiator support because the fender was too far forward. I'm pretty happy with this alignment and just hope that I can replicate it after I finish the rocker panel and remove the door and fender to blast / paint the cab.


Here's the pic of my crappy paint job on the fender. This was taken right after I removed the fender and I don't remember what happened, but I tripped, almost fell, and dropped the fender on the floor with anything else I was holding. Not concerned about the paint job, just did it to protect it from rust. I'll sand it down this weekend.


Not that you need a close up to see the bad paint job, but just in case you need glasses...


Here is the turn signal switch and the insert with the lettereing I got. I can't seem to get the pointer to fit in the steering column properly.


The turn signal lever I bought does not fit the switch. I am considering grinding the edges off to make it fit.

[1971Stepside]

On those repro doors you may have to take a 2x4 to the window frame and give them a little adjustment in either direction to fit the drip rail just right. Otherwise, I was very happy with how they fit. I took a grinder to the that weld at the top corner and smoothed it down to match the OEM doors. Keep up the good work.

[DD1]

Originally Posted by 1971Stepside

On those repro doors you may have to take a 2x4 to the window frame and give them a little adjustment in either direction to fit the drip rail just right. Otherwise, I was very happy with how they fit. I took a grinder to the that weld at the top corner and smoothed it down to match the OEM doors. Keep up the good work.

Thanks! I think the drip rail on the cab is a bit off; it dips down in one section. The clearance is better than it looks in the pic, but I appreciate the tip.

I think I'm ready to test fit the rocker panel, then work on the cab corner after the rocker is installed. I have to make or buy inner cab corners. I did not know they were a thing until I discovered it on here by mistake, but I was wondering why there was an open hole just inside the cab corner.

Taking a break today. Will get back to it tomorrow night.

[crakarjax]

I have an open hole inside the cab corner also, I assumed it was just a really oversized drainage hole. There's no rust on mine so I know it's factory, but I plan to just seal it up and then add a small drain hole at the lowest point. I've never head of an inner cab corner, but that's probably just part of the floor -- also sometimes called the inner rocker so maybe inner cab corner just refers to the floor behind the cab corner?

[DD1]

Originally Posted by crakarjax

I have an open hole inside the cab corner also, I assumed it was just a really oversized drainage hole. There's no rust on mine so I know it's factory, but I plan to just seal it up and then add a small drain hole at the lowest point. I've never head of an inner cab corner, but that's probably just part of the floor -- also sometimes called the inner rocker so maybe inner cab corner just refers to the floor behind the cab corner?

I assumed the same thing. Then I saw posts about it with a discussion about the pros and cons of filling it in. (http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ad.php?t=24463)

This one I don't get, there is a discussion about using seam sealer to fill the hole, but it's as small of a hole as the guy shows in a pic. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=804201

I think I am going to cut some metal and make the piece myself. But I will worry about it after I get the doors and rocker panels done.

Out of curiosity I googled it and found that AMD sells it.

[DD1]

[quote=DD1;8748381]I assumed the same thing. Then I saw posts about it with a discussion about the pros and cons of filling it in. (http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ad.php?t=24463)

This one I don't get, there is a discussion about using seam sealer to fill the hole, but it's as small of a hole as the guy shows in a pic. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=804201

I think I am going to cut some metal and make the piece myself. But I will worry about it after I get the doors and rocker panels done.

Out of curiosity I googled it and found that AMD sells it.

Originally Posted by crakarjax

I have an open hole inside the cab corner also, I assumed it was just a really oversized drainage hole. There's no rust on mine so I know it's factory, but I plan to just seal it up and then add a small drain hole at the lowest point. I've never head of an inner cab corner, but that's probably just part of the floor -- also sometimes called the inner rocker so maybe inner cab corner just refers to the floor behind the cab corner?

So, I was having a bit of a brain fart earlier and for some reason was thinking my cab was exposed to daylight. It's not. There is a gap where the rocker panel meets the cab corner and that can be sealed up with seam sealer. I still may fill the gap between the floor and the cab corner. Whether I make my own piece or buy the inner cab corner piece I posted above remains to be seen.

I started lining up the rocker panel this evening. Was exhausted so didn't finish it. Not thrilled with the way the one I purchased lines up, but I know I will need to modify it, and I have a bunch of spares I forgot about. A while back I bought a batch of rocker panels from someone.

The left side lines up more or less okay, but as you go to the middle of the door, the rocker sticks out more, then tucks in too much at the front. I'm going to try a different rocker tomorrow, figure out which is closest and modify it. You can't see it in the pic, but it's rubbing against the very bottom edge of the fender.

[DD1]

Today I woke up at the Crack of Noon, so I did not get as much done as I would like, but I think I have settled on how the Rocker will line up and I'm ready to move forward.

I was trying to figure out how to get the front of the rocker to come out a bit more. It was too far in and touching the door edge when it was open.


Decided to make some relief cuts where the red lines are...


It was still touching so I cut a bit further then pushed down on the rocker.


It's not perfect, but it's not touching the door and it's good enough to bondo.



I cleaned off the paint on the outside of the inner rocker panel and put some rust prevention paint on it leaving off the edge where it will be spot welded.

[crakarjax]

Ah ok I thought you were talking about the hole at the rear of the inner rocker, by the very back of the cab -- I welded my rocker to the cab corner, bridging with some metal but I left a small hole in case any water needs to escape.

My rocker fit just about like yours, and it took a *ton* of time to make fit right. Probably the most effort out of the whole section, and you'd think they'd be stamping these correct now since it's probably the most commonly purchased sheet metal part.

I have no idea where the part you linked to goes, but it's in the bed section so now I'm wondering...

[DD1]

Originally Posted by crakarjax

Ah ok I thought you were talking about the hole at the rear of the inner rocker, by the very back of the cab -- I welded my rocker to the cab corner, bridging with some metal but I left a small hole in case any water needs to escape.

My rocker fit just about like yours, and it took a *ton* of time to make fit right. Probably the most effort out of the whole section, and you'd think they'd be stamping these correct now since it's probably the most commonly purchased sheet metal part.

I have no idea where the part you linked to goes, but it's in the bed section so now I'm wondering...

Well it's interesting they call it an Inner Cab Corner and list it in the Bed section. I assumed it's to close off the space above the cab corner inside the cab. I'll follow your plan and seal it off with a hole for drainage.

[cornerstone]

Looks like you have got everything aligned much better! Nice work. I think your date of May 2021 is quite feasible.

[DD1]

The last couple of days have been tiring at work, and I haven't had the energy to do anything on the truck. Plus I need the wife to help me remove the door. I'm going to take it off the door side of the hinges.

I realized that I never spot welded the... cowl plate (forgot the name for a sec) to the floor. I can't get a drill on the side of it with the door on. Hopefully I'll be able to get it back into position again.


I did drill holes into the top of the rocker so all I need to do it clean up some metal for the welds and I am good to go.

[DD1]

Went back in the garage and did a little bit more today.

My wife helped me remove the door. While I was waiting for her I started working on welding the second hole I cut out of the bed side. Decided to finish it up. Needs a couple of tiny welds to fill a few spots and I need to finish grinding it (I hate grinding because I suck at it).

Then I drilled some holes on the cowl panel. There probably should be a gap underneath it (?), but there's not much I can do about it now. I'll do the 7 spot welds and cram Seam Sealer under it and it will have too do.

Tomorrow I will spot weld the cowl panel, put the rocker panel in place with screws, and start welding it up.

I suck at grinding more than I suck at welding.


You can see the gap from the shadows. Not huge, but it's there. Whatever.

[DD1]

Okay, so I haven't posted in 10 days. I have made some progress and thought about posting along the way, but I thought anyone reading would be like "He's still working on that rocker panel?"

So, yes I am STILL working on the rocker panel, but it's pretty much installed except for welding the bottom piece to the inner panel. I want to use my spot welder as I don't trust my welding skills on a piece of metal that thin. I was having problems with the spot welder and I think I need to replace the tips, so I ordered a set on Ebay.

Before I get into the rocker panel, I ordered a speedometer cable on Amazon and while it might be a little long (haven't figured out the routing yet), it fit the truck and the transmission.

After checking, double checking, quadruple checking, I welded the top of the rocker panel over the floor with the door in place. Now my welding skills have gotten better, but as anyone who has followed this for a while knows, that's not saying much. I worked on some areas with really old welds I did, so remember while I still suck at welding, back then I REALLY sucked at welding.

I decided I can live with this and moved on with welding. I read someone's suggestion on the forum somewhere about after welding the top to take a 2x4 and bang down on the rocker to get it to move forward. It didn't work.


On the bright side, somehow I no longer have much of a cab corner problem.


All welded in...


Close up of the gap difference between the rocker and fender.


Welded up the front...

and the back... I accidentally shaved off a piece of the edge of the rocker, not a huge deal but pretty annoying.


Next I moved on to finishing up some stuff I gave up on years ago and / or totally forgot I should do.

Cleaned up some left over welds from the cab bracing. What are the little knobs for? I was about to grind one off before I realized what it was.


Worked on this gap...


And adding some spot welds to the holes on the firewall lip. It's held in place with welds from the spot welder and I know it looks scary as hell, but it's actually pretty solid. This was during my REALLY Sucking at Welding period. Now I just do sucky welds instead of really sucky welds.



Haven't quite decided what I'm doing about this yet...


Oh, I forgot to take a pic of the places I forgot to put spot welds and finally did them today. It's really hard to do spot welds on a vertical surface by the way. I'll post them tomorrow.

[cornerstone]

Nice progress man. I think those little knobs are for holding the floor mat in place.

Originally Posted by DD1

I don't trust my welding skills on a piece of metal that thin.

It does take some time to learn how to weld thin metal, and the welder plays a huge role. I remember when I replaced the floor pans on a classic Mustang and had a $100. cracker box welder. That was a real education on crappy equipment. It was like a large booger next to a blown out hole, next to another giant booger weld next to.... you get the point. I certainly haven't mastered it, but when I stepped up to a Millermatic 250 and figured out the beauty of thinner wire and less current, my welds got way better.



It's held in place with welds from the spot welder and I know it looks scary as hell, but it's actually pretty solid. This was during my REALLY Sucking at Welding period. Now I just do sucky welds instead of really sucky welds.

I appreciate your sense of humor and honesty with yourself and the rest of the world. It's quite refreshing... So many builds just show the cool stuff and perfect "stack of nickle" welds, and when a guy who's learning how to bring his prized possession back to life compares his work to perfection, it can really take the wind out of his sails. I think most guys have difficulty as well and to see you keep on keepin' on is really great

[crakarjax]

In that last pic -- the hole where panels meet -- I filled mine with weld, one layer at a time. I think using seam sealer would probably be just fine.

[DD1]

Originally Posted by cornerstone

Nice progress man. I think those little knobs are for holding the floor mat in place.

It does take some time to learn how to weld thin metal, and the welder plays a huge role. I remember when I replaced the floor pans on a classic Mustang and had a $100. cracker box welder. That was a real education on crappy equipment. It was like a large booger next to a blown out hole, next to another giant booger weld next to.... you get the point. I certainly haven't mastered it, but when I stepped up to a Millermatic 250 and figured out the beauty of thinner wire and less current, my welds got way better.


I appreciate your sense of humor and honesty with yourself and the rest of the world. It's quite refreshing... So many builds just show the cool stuff and perfect "stack of nickle" welds, and when a guy who's learning how to bring his prized possession back to life compares his work to perfection, it can really take the wind out of his sails. I think most guys have difficulty as well and to see you keep on keepin' on is really great

That's what I thought, but after putting insulation and carpet they may end up being hidden and useless.

Thanks for sharing the story about your first welder. Mine is a HF model which might not be much better. No plans to upgrade though as I don't know when or if I might take on another project like this.

And thanks for the kind words. If I take myself too seriously, I will get way too frustrated with this project. I started it not expecting to do this much work and not knowing what I was doing. I was thinking an engine swap and maybe a little body work some of which I could maybe outsource. That was 9 years ago I think, but I have learned a lot though (like I shouldn't have bought this truck). If I had any "perfect "stack of nickle" welds" I would absolutely show them!

Originally Posted by crakarjax

In that last pic -- the hole where panels meet -- I filled mine with weld, one layer at a time. I think using seam sealer would probably be just fine.

That's what I was thinking. Will probably put some welds from the outside and then seam sealer on the inside. Will probably add some welds to where the cab and firewall meet on the right side of the cab as well. Never hurts to have a little extra support. Thanks!

[DD1]

Here are the pics I forgot to take yesterday. Forgot to weld the front of the A pillar to the cowl panel.


Here's the inside of the cowl panel after welding.

[DD1]

Here are the pics I forgot to take yesterday. Forgot to weld the front of the A pillar to the cowl panel.


Here's the inside of the cowl panel after welding.