Restoring Rusty

[greg64]

Glad to see all your progress! If it helps any, the single piece rear seals are harder to change. And I agree, those tranny crossmembers really pack up the dirt!

I'd agree with the others that a flywheel resurface makes sense, and why not put a new clutch in there while it's all apart? Your current clutch is a Borg-and-beck style (the three release levers). These take more pedal effort then a diaphragm style. A stock replacement clutch disc and pressure plate are cheap (do the throwout bearing too). I think my last set was only like $150, and that's here in Canada. We hardly need a Centerforce super-dooper setup for a pretty stock engine.

[y5mgisi]

Agreed. If you can possibly swing it, a new clutch kit, and at least a fly wheel resurfacing, would be best done while you are in there. The flip side is, as you have found, its not exactly a monumental task to pull the trans. So if you cant quite afford it at the moment, just know that you will do it soon but have to pull the trans. Now with it being all clean and stuff, you should be able to pull the trans and install a new clutch in a day pretty easy. One last thing to consider. Price out a whole new flywheel. Some times they are worth new due to the starter ring gear teeth being chewed up.

[y5mgisi]

Rock auto lists brand new flywheels for under $60. And complete clutch kits for as low as $80.

[Titomars]

You might want to consider doing those 2 freeze plugs in the back. Don't touch the center one that is not a freeze plug, it is the cam bore plug. Especially since you already had issues with the others, I'd replace them. Oh yes please do a complete clutch replacement while it is apart you will thank yourself many times after. In my area getting a flywheel resurfaced is $45.00. The cost of a new flywheel is usually under $75.00 and it includes a new ring gear too. So it really pays to just replace it.

[rusty76]

You're getting there.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by rusty76

You're getting there.

Thanks, not much progress today, only 2 hours of cleaning, then a parts store run, then lunch with family, then movie with family, then power nap

picked up a Fel Pro two piece rear mail seal, no idea what the white pinky ring is for

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by greg64

Your current clutch is a Borg-and-beck style (the three release levers). These take more pedal effort then a diaphragm style. A stock replacement clutch disc and pressure plate are cheap (do the throwout bearing too). I think my last set was only like $150, and that's here in Canada. We hardly need a Centerforce super-dooper setup for a pretty stock engine.

God Bless 'Merica! I really did not like the clutch pedal feel at all, reminded me of my '83 Harley, and I just thought Americans have stronger left foot/hand than most, thanks for learning me this, so this justifies the R&R even more

The Clutch Set was $120 out the door, and to my surprise included both the pilot bushing (smaller metal ring) and the throwout bearing (larger metal ring)

um... so why do they even give you the throwout bearing if they just want you to toss it, seems like a total waste!

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Titomars

You might want to consider doing those 2 freeze plugs in the back.

man I soooo dont wanna, they look so pretty and shinny and new and dry too, and I really don't trust my freeze plug installations I don't think I am that good at it, so I avoid em when ever possible, hee hee

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Titomars

YIn my area getting a flywheel resurfaced is $45.00. The cost of a new flywheel is usually under $75.00 and it includes a new ring gear too. So it really pays to just replace it.

I went to Pep Boys today to see if they resurface fly wheels and they don't. They do turn brake rotors/drums so I thought I would ask.

I am with you on just buying a brand new one, otherwise mating a new clutch plate to an old fly wheel is like clapping with one hand.

But man we got to watch the kitty cause it's a slippery slope. My kitty that is, you guys are spending like crazy here, JK, replace this, replace that, LOL if I wanted a shinny new truck I would have bought an F150 - kidding geeze get back in your seats folks, sorry to make you spill that bear, was it technically even the F word I said?

[y5mgisi]

The white pinky ring thing is like a "coupler" that goes between the oil pump and oil pump drive shaft.

EDIT:

Can kinda see it in this pic.

[greg64]

Damn, you beat me to it... . The white pinky ring is for connecting the oil pump driveshaft.

You guys can buy a new flywheel (not ring gear) for $60?!! Damn, there's no way I could get one so cheap here. Heck, I'd pay that for a used one that needed resurfacing. Greg, if you find a local engine machine shop, they'll have a lathe that can face the flywheel.

That new clutch looks good. It's a diaphragm style. You'll notice a difference in pedal effort.

Now, while we're spending your money... Change the pilot bearing in the crank, and make sure the new one has needle bearings and isn't an old style bronze bushing. You might also want to put a new stock-style oil pump on. It's good insurance while the engine is opened up, and they're cheap. Forget the high pressure / high flow pumps for stock engines, they aren't needed, and load the distributor gears up more.

Nah forget all that and just spring for a 572 BBC!

[Titomars]

Originally Posted by Gregski

man I soooo dont wanna, they look so pretty and shinny and new and dry too, and I really don't trust my freeze plug installations I don't think I am that good at it, so I avoid em when ever possible, hee hee

they may look clean and shinny from the outside but consider this. Freeze plugs rot from the inside out. Those two you did replace where in the rear sides of the block. that's where the deposits and cooling system sludge build up and why those 2 failed. Now look where the two rear ones are.
I understand where you are coming from but those two are easy to get at. If you don't trust yourself after you change them, fill the cooling system and leave it for a day with a nice clean pan under it. Any leaks should show themselves after 24 hrs.

I am on a budget with my baby too. But there are certain things that should be done while a major assembly is out. Trust me when you get done stabbing that 2,000lb trans back in you will not want to pull it back out any time soon! How I work my builds is if something comes up, I redirect the funds I was saving for something Like a Stereo to go towards that job that keeps her on the road and happy. When my truck is happy it comes back to me two fold as I drive her.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by y5mgisi

The white pinky ring thing is like a "coupler" that goes between the oil pump and oil pump drive shaft.

EDIT:

Can kinda see it in this pic.

Oh, gracias! Another lesson learned by doing.

[motornut]

looks good
frost plugs and starter ring would be good insurance now.
try this type of comparison?in store?mine was really worn...But I had starter issues

[jeremybadeker]

Love what you're doing here Greg. If you ever need a hand, Im local to you.

[enaberif]

Before you put that oil pump in get yourself a all metal oil pump drive. It gets rid of the plastic ring for a metal bushing instead.

[Titomars]

Originally Posted by jeremybadeker

Love what you're doing here Greg. If you ever need a hand, Im local to you.

I am also somewhat local too. I am in Santa Rosa. I too am enjoying and love watching your posts gregski

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by jeremybadeker

Love what you're doing here Greg. If you ever need a hand, Im local to you.

Hi Jeremey, thanks and how much do you bench press? That tranny aint gonna lift itself! hee hee, PM me where abouts you at, I'm in North Natomas

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Titomars

I am also somewhat local too. I am in Santa Rosa. I too am enjoying and love watching your posts gregski

Guys I can totally see a meet and greet happening here at a strategically centerally located oil stained AutoZone parking lot, last one there buys a quart of oil to top us off and we head out for some pizza and beer.

[Gregski]

let me run some of these ENGINE TORQUES by ya'll and see if you can verify them before I go snappin bolts, the table in the Manual is a bit confusing as it shows specs for the 250, 292, 350, and 454 motards

Oil Pump - 65 lb. ft. (really sounds like a lot)

Main Bearing Cap - 70 lb. ft.

Oil Pan - 80 lb. in. (1/4-20 bolts) ('member this one is in inches dummy)
Oil Pan - 65 lb. in. (5/16-18 bolts) (so which one do I got?)

Flywheel - 60 lb. ft. (7/16-20 bolt)

Clutch Pressure Plate - 35 lb. ft.

Flywheel Housing Cover - 80 lb in. (I hate it when they give you this in inches)

[Titomars]

Originally Posted by Gregski

Guys I can totally see a meet and greet happening here at a strategically centerally located oil stained AutoZone parking lot, last one there buys a quart of oil to top us off and we head out for some pizza and beer.

I am down for that!

[Titomars]

Originally Posted by Gregski

let me run some of these ENGINE TORQUES by ya'll and see if you can verify them before I go snappin bolts, the table in the Manual is a bit confusing as it shows specs for the 250, 292, 350, and 454 motards

Oil Pump - 65 lb. ft. (really sounds like a lot)

Main Bearing Cap - 70 lb. ft.

Oil Pan - 80 lb. in. (1/4-20 bolts) ('member this one is in inches dummy)
Oil Pan - 65 lb. in. (5/16-18 bolts) (so which one do I got?)

Flywheel - 60 lb. ft. (7/16-20 bolt)

Clutch Pressure Plate - 35 lb. ft.

Flywheel Housing Cover - 80 lb. in. (I hate it when they give you this in inches)

Oil Pump - 65 lb. ft. it does but I double checked

Main Bearing Cap - 70 lb. ft.

Oil Pan - 12 lb ft (1/4-20 bolts)
Oil Pan - 18 lb ft (5/16-18 bolts)
You have both. all 4 corners are 5/16 bolts

Flywheel - 60 lb. ft. (7/16-20 bolt) I use lock-tite here

Clutch Pressure Plate - 35 lb. ft. I use lock-tite here

Flywheel Housing - 25 lb ft
flywheel cover (tin) - 12 to 15 lb ft

[greg64]

My book shows the oil pan bolts as:
1/4 - 80 in-lbs (6.7 ft-lbs)
5/16 - 165 in-lbs (13.8 ft-lbs)

Don't over torque these, because it distorts the sheet metal and opens up gaps between the bolts, which of course cause leaks.

Greg

[400/400]

[QUOTE=Gregski;7051146]

Oil Pan - 80 lb. in. (1/4-20 bolts) ('member this one is in inches dummy)
Oil Pan - 65 lb. in. (5/16-18 bolts) (so which one do I got?)

An easy way to size the diameter of bolts is to fit the threads of the bolt into open end wrenches.
The 1/4" bolts threaded area will fit nicely in a 1/4" inch wrench, 5/16" bolt threaded area in a 5/16" wrench and so on.

[rusty76]

There you go again with a power nap.......