Daverods project 66

[Strodder]

BTW I meant *****, not BUTCH

[daverod]

Originally Posted by Strodder

BTW I meant *****, not BUTCH

I know what you ment jest mesing with ya. Think I should level my frame?

[Strodder]

Originally Posted by daverod

I know what you ment jest mesing with ya. Think I should level my frame?

Duh that's the first thing you should have done.

[daverod]

Originally Posted by Strodder

Duh that's the first thing you should have done.

Duh That why I have you. I just did'nt really see the point. Can't you just measure. Acually I just centered it on the c notch I had from before. Seemed to be quite a bit of room for error. Guess I'll go level it. Could'nt hurt. I can see why now that I've cut so much stuff off it.

[Strodder]

Originally Posted by daverod

Duh That why I have you. I just did'nt really see the point. Can't you just measure. Acually I just centered it on the c notch I had from before. Seemed to be quite a bit of room for error.

Make sure the frame in front of the notch is level, and keep the rear of the notch level. Also check that the top of the notch is level too. You can also check for it to be square, buy measuring it across. (right side in front of notch to the left rear side of the notch. Do that on both sides, and your frame should be square. When your diff goes up all the way it arches. It might not be in the middle of the notch. MEASURE TWICE, WELD ONCE.

[daverod]

Originally Posted by Strodder

Make sure the frame in front of the notch is level, and keep the rear of the notch level. Also check that the top of the notch is level too. You can also check for it to be square, buy measuring it across. (right side in front of notch to the left rear side of the notch. Do that on both sides, and your frame should be square. When your diff goes up all the way it arches. It might not be in the middle of the notch. MEASURE TWICE, WELD ONCE.

As long as it goes up all the way I don't care if it's in the center. I don't want to put everything back together just to see if it centered. I don't think I could tell anyways. I guess I could figure it with a string? Do you have to use lowering blocks to the axle all the way up. In the pic above it looks like thats as far up as it goes. The swing arms are hitting the frame?

[Strodder]

Originally Posted by daverod

As long as it goes up all the way I don't care if it's in the center. I don't want to put everything back together just to see if it centered. I don't think I could tell anyways. I guess I could figure it with a string? Do you have to use lowering blocks to the axle all the way up. In the pic above it looks like thats as far up as it goes. The swing arms are hitting the frame?

But sometimes the axle tube can hit the side of the notch, and can make noise, or won't go down all the way because it's hitting. Believe me I seen a lot of butchered jobs that I repaired. Just trying to give you some knowledge about notches. I've done to many to count.

[daverod]

Originally Posted by Strodder

But sometimes the axle tube can hit the side of the notch, and can make noise, or won't go down all the way because it's hitting. Believe me I seen a lot of butchered jobs that I repaired. Just trying to give you some knowledge about notches. I've done to many to count.

So if it's done right the swing arm should clear the frame and go up into the notch right? In the picture above it looks as if it hits on the frame? This would be corrected if he would have moved his notch alittle forward right? I'm all about butching. If the notch is moved forward it looks like the back of the swing arm would hit? "Make sure the frame in front of the notch is level, and keep the rear of the notch level. Also check that the top of the notch is level too". Unless it art then it does'nt matter right. Maybe art does'nt work very good ether.

[ruffrida2005]

Do you plan on using your trailing arms for your bags to sit on. Reason I ask is mostly everyone that bags a truck gets rid of the stock trailing arms because it will hit the frame. If they keep them, they either build a back half or Z the rear of the frame. You want your axle tubes to sit center in the notch so when you lower it it wont hit anything. What are you planning on running for link bars?

[daverod]

Originally Posted by ruffrida2005

Do you plan on using your trailing arms for your bags to sit on. Reason I ask is mostly everyone that bags a truck gets rid of the stock trailing arms because it will hit the frame. If they keep them, they either build a back half or Z the rear of the frame. You want your axle tubes to sit center in the notch so when you lower it it wont hit anything. What are you planning on running for link bars?

I was going to try to use my stock trailing arms but I guess not any more. I don't see how it would work without some big lowering blocks. The best thing would be to put the arms on the outside of the frame. I guess I'll be looking for some four link stuff. I saw SD has a kit but its $1100.

[padresag]

why do the notches seem to be backwards to one another
ron

[daverod]

Originally Posted by padresag

why do the notches seem to be backwards to one another
ron

Because they are. I think it called art.

[MacAttack]

Originally Posted by Strodder

BTW I meant *****, not BUTCH

Nah - I think your really meant butch.....



Freudian Slip: or parapraxis, is an error in speech, memory, or physical action that is interpreted as occurring due to the interference of some unconscious ('dynamically repressed') wish, conflict, or train of thought. The concept is thus part of classical psychoanalysis.

Mac.

[Strodder]

Here's a Triangle 4 link It's only $399.00



And a parrall 4 link for $499.00



This is there link
http://www.kplinks.com/home.php

This is one of the reasons I choose to put the 73 frame on the back half of my 65. There's more options for air bagging.

[jason65]

On the triangle 4 link isn't the spot where it welds to the top of the pumpkin a very weak point cause weld doesn't stick there very well?

[ruffrida2005]

Jason yes and no, If you know what your doing you can make a very good weld. You have to preheat the pumpkin first between 300-600 and then weld. Most people dont know how and build a loop over it to attach the end links.

Dave one thing about our trucks is it's hard to 4 link because of how the bed mounts. If you dont care then you can put the links on top of the frame and then to the cent of the alxe. Remember that you have to have atleast 40* or your axle will move side to side. The best and maybe cheapest for you to do it go bag on 2x2 on outside of frame and a wishbone or watts link. If you wanna use round bar for the bags make sure that it's atleast 1.5" and .120 wall or it can bend. You should always have the lower bars adjustable. Just call up SD and let them help ya out. They make some really good links and it's good stuff.

[daverod]

I was thinking of making it easy. Seemed like a good deal they even threw in the bags. Sucks I missed the dead line. Still looking around. Sucks even more I'm taking next month off to go hunting so the money tree will be lacking buds. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=353118 I did get some pushrods today so all is not lost.

[ruffrida2005]

If you talk to Jason personally and buy some other stuff from him,. He'll probably give you a discount. That's what he did when I bought my crossmember from him. One thing you need to tell him that you already have the notch. It's a good kit. I just dont have the money and I backhalfed my truck.

[daverod]

Originally Posted by ruffrida2005

If you talk to Jason personally and buy some other stuff from him,. He'll probably give you a discount. That's what he did when I bought my crossmember from him. One thing you need to tell him that you already have the notch. It's a good kit. I just dont have the money and I backhalfed my truck.

I just put all my junk on cl hopefully I'll be getting some $. I think you get 100 off if you don't need the notch. Tell me alittle about what you have for an engine.

[jason65]

Originally Posted by protrash64

.....how did lesbians get caught up in this????

Nothing wrong with a couple of them helping out now and then.

[Strodder]

Originally Posted by daverod

I was thinking of making it easy. Seemed like a good deal they even threw in the bags. Sucks I missed the dead line. Still looking around. Sucks even more I'm taking next month off to go hunting so the money tree will be lacking buds. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=353118

That SD kit looks really good. Not a bad price too.

[ruffrida2005]

Well my engine is a 77 4 bolt main 350 out of a sub. Stock crank, bored .30 with flat tops. Stock head that was worked with 2.02/1.60 valves and Z28 springs that will take up to .500 lift. Comp cam 468 lift, Stamped roller tips. AirGap intake, Holley 750, Edelbrock valve covers, edelbrock 110 GPH fuel pump

[daverod]

Originally Posted by ruffrida2005

Well my engine is a 77 4 bolt main 350 out of a sub. Stock crank, bored .30 with flat tops. Stock head that was worked with 2.02/1.60 valves and Z28 springs that will take up to .500 lift. Comp cam 468 lift, Stamped roller tips. AirGap intake, Holley 750, Edelbrock valve covers, edelbrock 110 GPH fuel pump

Sweet just looking for ideas for my next.

[daverod]

Come on money tree!!! Maybe if I talk nice to it it will throw a few buds my way. Put my pushrods in, valves adjusted and intake on. Have to to go the store and get some miracle grow. Ah. To all feds, it's not a real tree. Or is it. Two weeks to get some $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$.

[daverod]

Any ideas what headers would fit good? Drip edges came right off three wacks. Found some nice rust.