What did you do to your truck today? Chapter II

[hotwls13]

Originally Posted by KeepRMovin

Good eye!

It is a modified 1969 GMC C10 I guess, the bed is an 80's stepside, not sure on the year of the hood. I'll definitely get some more pictures up, love all the knowledge on here!

I think they were being funny. C10 is the designation for Chevrolet. 1500 would be the "correct" designation for a 1/2t GMC.

I too have a 70 GMC 1500. Welcome to the club. That is a beautiful truck you have there.

[palallin]

Originally Posted by VWNate1

This is a common problem, the solution is fairly simple :

Right after you spray the next shot of penetrating oil on the threads, *SMACK* the bleeder screw dead on with a hammer, the shock will wick the penetrant in and loosen the threads .

If you smack it off center or sideways, you'll snap it off so pay close attention here .

I'm sure you already know to only use a SIX POINTED tool on any bleeder valve ! .

Actually, the one bleeder cooperated very easily. The other resisted firmly, so I switched to the line fitting, and it loosened without much trouble at all. and, oh yes: 6-pt box end or socket--absolutely!

I've got some pedal but not as much as I want, so there will be more bleeding in the near future. I would have done some more today, but the test run got everything hot, and I didn't want to crawl back under that way.

The last time I replaced the MC, I had to replace one of the short steel lines between the MC and the distribution block, and the replacement didn't survive the removal, so we had to drive into town to pick up a replacement for the replacement.

I tried to knock the little adjustment slots out of the new drums, but the stamping wasn't deep enough, and the punch just distorted the metal rather than knocking it out. I may go to the trouble of drilling, but not till Fall ;-)

[Steeveedee]

Originally Posted by palallin

Actually, the one bleeder cooperated very easily. The other resisted firmly, so I switched to the line fitting, and it loosened without much trouble at all. and, oh yes: 6-pt box end or socket--absolutely!

I've got some pedal but not as much as I want, so there will be more bleeding in the near future. I would have done some more today, but the test run got everything hot, and I didn't want to crawl back under that way.

The last time I replaced the MC, I had to replace one of the short steel lines between the MC and the distribution block, and the replacement didn't survive the removal, so we had to drive into town to pick up a replacement for the replacement.

I tried to knock the little adjustment slots out of the new drums, but the stamping wasn't deep enough, and the punch just distorted the metal rather than knocking it out. I may go to the trouble of drilling, but not till Fall ;-)

I can tell you that every Dremel tool I have ever bought and worn out has paid for itself 100 times over. I've cut the bearing races off of spindles and then polished 'em enough to get a new bearing on, for example. Food for thought.

[VWNate1]

I hope everyone here knows what a 'Flare Nut Wrench' is ? .

Very handy (mandatory for me) when loosening up brake pipes even when not rusty .

I grew up Down East and learned the hardest way possible on rusty old junk .

? Did you ever try the "Stick Trick" ? .

It's a simple thing a BMC Engineer taught me, when you're done for the day you wedge a stick (or whatever) between the brake pedal and seat, steering wheel, etc., etc. .

What this does is : partially depress the master cylinder so the by pass port is open ~ then ever so slowly remaining air bubbles (if they're not too big nor plentiful) will in time, work their way out via the uncovered by pass port .

You have to leave it at least 24 hours, often this is the last thing to get that rock hard brake pedal again .

[Steeveedee]

You can do the same thing by pushing the pedal down just a little, and pumping it. I worked for a guy right after I got out of the Navy who showed me that gem. We had a power bleeder, and I preferred to use it to completely purge the system of fluid when I changed a master cylinder, but this cheapskate would do this "mini-pumping" instead. He would do it while I went off to other paying work, so I couldn't complain too much about it. Of course, the master had been properly bench bled first.

[JWSmith]

installed brake and fuel lines, everything hooked up and in final resting place. Bled brakes. Ran wires to the corners for lights, etc.

[davischevy]

Originally Posted by VWNate1

I hope everyone here knows what a 'Flare Nut Wrench' is ? .

Very handy (mandatory for me) when loosening up brake pipes even when not rusty .

I grew up Down East and learned the hardest way possible on rusty old junk .

? Did you ever try the "Stick Trick" ? .

It's a simple thing a BMC Engineer taught me, when you're done for the day you wedge a stick (or whatever) between the brake pedal and seat, steering wheel, etc., etc. .

What this does is : partially depress the master cylinder so the by pass port is open ~ then ever so slowly remaining air bubbles (if they're not too big nor plentiful) will in time, work their way out via the uncovered by pass port .

You have to leave it at least 24 hours, often this is the last thing to get that rock hard brake pedal again .

I keep a piece of 1 1/2" PVC pipe, with the end wrapped in towels, for this purpose, hanging on the wall.

[Boog]

I have to say I have never heard of the "stick" procedure. How far do you move the pedal down?

[VWNate1]

I've had good results anywhere, the main thing is to move the MC's internal piston sufficiently to uncover the bypass port .

I like to apply some pressure so push the brake pedal down as far as you can then wedge the stick in place or move the seat forward until the stick is held in place .

As mentioned above, clean and clear brake fluid is very important, flush the entire system any time you see brown or black fluid .

FWIW, this simple thing works amazingly well on Motocycle front disc brakes too, just use rubber bands on the brake lever over night .

[Metaldoc]

First piece of the puzzle finished, reground .010/.010 under and looks perfect. I was so happy I smoked some sausages and the smoked pickled eggs are the bomb. I'm never making non smoked again smoked eggs all the way. Had to do some touch ups where I scratched the fire wall, a bit of paint now.

[beaterku]

Finally on to final assembly of the front suspension. Going to push in the bushing shells and put the front end back together.

[Lanman1972]

I moved it outside , been in the garage 2 years. It's running great, now the body and paint begin!

[Lanman1972]

Couple more!

[robs71]

Received my bed floor kit from Larry ((GR8-68)) for my 72 super project....beautiful workmanship from this man..had him finish both sides and predrill so its ready to go.

[bill3rail]

Installed Sound Deadener and new carpeting in the cab then took the wife out for a drive.

Bill

[stormtown]

installed new exhaust isolators and put hangers in. Have to wait on middle isolators til tomorrow

[Patch]

Got the behemoth rear bumper off today and the aftermarket 4 ft long hitch cut out. It's getting there.

[GR8-68]

Originally Posted by robs71

Received my bed floor kit from Larry ((GR8-68)) for my 72 super project....beautiful workmanship from this man..had him finish both sides and predrill so its ready to go.

Thanks Rob, glad to see another pleased customer, can't wait to see pics of it installed

[Beau2a]

Got the stock drivetrain out and took the bed off. Lost the original timing chain at 99,996 miles. No compression. Have a 5.3/4l60e on the way and moving tank under the bed

[stevenfromtexas]

painted my tail gate today.....

[stevenfromtexas]

...

[Steeveedee]

Replaced the fan clutch a couple of weeks ago. Took it and ran it at 65 MPH up a long steep freeway grade that we have here. Got to 220º going up, and dropped to 205º on the way down. Cruising in town coming back home, it held right about 205º. I'll drain the radiator down far enough to check the tubes for crud. I have a 7-mile jaunt scheduled for a camp out close to home, to check it out further, and I won't be driving that fast- with the trailer it'll not be over 55- and some of the road is posted for 45 MPH. It ought to be running a little hot, when the air temperature is still over 110º. All this is with a 190º thermostat.

I'm up in the air whether to rod this one (if that is all it needs), as it is a 4-row brass job, replace it with the same, or get an aluminum radiator. Any one know off hand if the aluminum radiators are a direct fit? I've seen some pics of modifications being required to the radiator hose connections.

[VWNate1]

As you said you have a four row core brass radiator it's a fairly simple thing to clean, use powdered citric acid mixed one pound of citric acid to each gallon of distilled water ~ mix this outside of the radiator and drive it a day or two, the coolant will turn dead black as it does it's thing, drain, flush and repeat until there's no clouds in the water / acid mix and no visible solder bloom .

This works with aluminum cooling systems too .

Remember to leave the heater's water valve wide open so it gets cleaned out too and never use tap water ! .

[toolboxchev]

Originally Posted by beaterku

Finally on to final assembly of the front suspension. Going to push in the bushing shells and put the front end back together.

Are those A-arms and Control shafts for a 67-72 or did you upgrade to a 73-87 style?

[Steeveedee]

Originally Posted by VWNate1

As you said you have a four row core brass radiator it's a fairly simple thing to clean, use powdered citric acid mixed one pound of citric acid to each gallon of distilled water ~ mix this outside of the radiator and drive it a day or two, the coolant will turn dead black as it does it's thing, drain, flush and repeat until there's no clouds in the water / acid mix and no visible solder bloom .

This works with aluminum cooling systems too .

Remember to leave the heater's water valve wide open so it gets cleaned out too and never use tap water ! .

Thanks! I flushed it about 5 years ago and put in water wetter and water pump lube, along with 50/50 coolant. I'll do this flushing after I get back from camping. We're not going all that far and it's pretty much level ground so we should be good for that little trip. I don't know if I have solder bloom, I haven't checked yet. I'll be doing checking that tomorrow. The wife wants the trailer in front of our house tomorrow to plug in the fridge and get it good and cold before we leave and it switches to propane. I'm charging the batteries which were deader than a mackerel. But that's a different problem to deal with. I'm thinking master disconnect or a solar panel and a voltage regulator to keep the batteries topped up. First I have to make sure that the batteries are any good after being flat for about a year, since that's how long it's been since we went camping last. Hand surgery has put that item on hold.