Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step

[Xeen]

Originally Posted by Low Elco

FYI, this bed is solid, but it's HASHED. It'll be a neat trick to pull this off. Over here eating popcorn....

As you say the bed is solid and he has a replacement bedside "half" so the rear section that has all the damage on it is being completely replaced which greatly simplifies things and reduces the amount of overall work he has to do to restore it.
In comparasin to the other repairs he has done on his cab this is the easy part, where as the cab took months the bed will take a week. It's all precision work there is just much less of it to do on the bed.

[Low Elco]

I'm aware of all the above. I was simply saying we're all in for a treat, as free hanging panels are a bit of a challenge to keep in line, although easily within Vic's skill set. I for one will enjoy the opportunity to enhance my skills through Vic's experience, as I've done several times both in this thread and in person.

[jlsanborn]

Your approach on the stake pockets is what I should have done

Live and learn

Once I cut through the bed rail I lost the straight line and it was a bugger to weld up without it pulling around.

[Vic1947]

Thanks for the vote of confidence, smellers, but after today I ain't so sure it's justified. You know how something seems so perfect on paper, then reality sets in? My experiment with the metal slitting blade might have worked had I chosen more wisely ...hard to say. The blade arrived at lunchtime, so this morning I went ahead and sectioned the passenger bedside using a 6" x .040" cutoff wheel. The larger diameter keeps the cut pretty straight. I set the three pieces I'll need aside and put the driver bedside up on the stands to prep it.

With the metal slitting blade in hand, I set up to section the floor. I've had this EZ Guide tool for a number of years and it works great on wood. I bought it for the rare occasions when someone holds a gun to my head and forces me into carpentry work. The tool allows a loner like me to make cuts that would normally require a couple of persons. Plus it pretty well eliminates the need for a table saw. Anyway, I figured with the appropriate blade, I could setup the guide and make very precise cuts to the floor. Might have worked if I had a more powerful saw or a better or different style blade. Regardless, I spent way too much time wearing my way thru the material, stopping often to cool off everything and mumble swear words.

So I abandoned my big plan and whipped out the same thin kerf cutoff wheel I used on the bedside and made short work of the remaining cuts on the rear section.

[Vic1947]

Using the cutoff saw manually is, by definition, less accurate than a guided tool. Even if the line is fairly straight, leaning the blade one way or another can create misalignments when you fit it all together. The good news is that I left enough material to be able to sand it to fit. I'll do that tomorrow, then fixture the rear floor section and start tacking it together. And it's on to the front section next.

[Low Elco]

I like that guide thingie-gotta get one o' them. Sorry your blade didn't work out.

[mcbassin]

Sorry to read about the metal blade not working out. I have seen those used for metal building panels. I personally like the abrasive blades. They wear out fast when you're doing that much cutting though.
I like to scribe a line with Dykem layout fluid then grind to it. Sounds like you are off and running on the bed shortening chore.

Keep up the good work.

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by mcbassin

I like to scribe a line with Dykem layout fluid then grind to it. Sounds like you are off and running on the bed shortening chore.

Me too, Mike. Should have laid out the lines first, but it worked out anyway. I had some errand running to do this morning, so not as much done as I'd like. Scott Duckworth came over this afternoon and brought me a 6 lug rally wheel to use for my spare tire. We had a good visit and he helped me trim the panel I plan to use on the hood and we did some MiG welding also. The rear of the floor is looking pretty good. Should get it welded out and ground tomorrow, then on to the front ...better late than never.

[sduckworth13]

That was fun Vic, thanks for giving me the grand tour of the shop.

[jlsanborn]

Nice work on the floor section! I can see where you were headed with the Skill Saw. I put a metal roof on my Pa's house years back and tried the "backwards wood blade" and straight-edge technique. OMG they don't make ear plugs, muffs, glasses or sleeves that are built for that kind of torture. I always thought that if they made the right blade (vs. abrasive) that'd be the trick. Minimal heat and clean, straight cut.

I spy some stuff in your last photo.... New helmet and gloves - need the story... why no Speed Glas? Did you buy that COOL copper backer with the handle on it? I've got a couple flat bars but I mostly use this big-old Tweako welding cable ring terminal, which SUCKS cuz it's got a big-ass hole in the middle!

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by jlsanborn

Nice work on the floor section! I can see where you were headed with the Skill Saw. I put a metal roof on my Pa's house years back and tried the "backwards wood blade" and straight-edge technique. OMG they don't make ear plugs, muffs, glasses or sleeves that are built for that kind of torture. I always thought that if they made the right blade (vs. abrasive) that'd be the trick. Minimal heat and clean, straight cut.

I spy some stuff in your last photo.... New helmet and gloves - need the story... why no Speed Glas? Did you buy that COOL copper backer with the handle on it? I've got a couple flat bars but I mostly use this big-old Tweako welding cable ring terminal, which SUCKS cuz it's got a big-ass hole in the middle!

Thanks, John. I've been lurking on eBay ever since my Speedglas gave up. So far nothing in my price range. I'm watching several items, so we'll see. Meanwhile, my old helmet was not auto darkening, so I picked up the one in the photo from HF to get me by while I wait on a "deal". Copper welding spoon is also an eBay item, $16.90 + free shipping. Previously, I used a piece of copper tubing that I split and flattened out. I keep it around because it can be formed to get into corners and tight spots.

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by sduckworth13

That was fun Vic, thanks for giving me the grand tour of the shop.

Anytime, Scott, thanks again for the wheel!

[swamp rat]

Looks great! I hope to do this some day if i never find a short bed, reading with high interest.

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

Looks great! I hope to do this some day if i never find a short bed, reading with high interest.

Thanks. I've read several threads where this has been done. No two seem to be the same. I'm still not sure what to expect when it comes time to join the sections together. I hope to post detailed pictures of the seams and what it takes to make them align.

[swamp rat]

Originally Posted by Vic1947

Thanks. I've read several threads where this has been done. No two seem to be the same. I'm still not sure what to expect when it comes time to join the sections together. I hope to post detailed pictures of the seams and what it takes to make them align.

That would be great..

BTW: check out Amazon for helmets too, ya never know.

[jlsanborn]

Whah? Speedglas gave up???? To me it's the Snap-On of glasses. Last time I was in the supply store there was tons of stuff but never really looked cuz mine works perfect. I've even been paying $$$ for Speedglas lenses...

[jlsanborn]

WHOA! Edit... I thought I read "Speedglas gave it up". I get it... YOUR'S gave it up , and YES they are $$$ cuz they are the Snap-On of helmets. I'd BEG Wifey if mine bit the dust. Fluke meter the same! Carry on...

[swamp rat]

I just ran across an old thread i have subscribed too, thought i'd post a link in case you don't have it, it shows how this guy did his bed shortening and dealt with the bed sides ect. Thought it may help?

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...&postcount=195

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

I just ran across an old thread i have subscribed too, thought i'd post a link in case you don't have it, it shows how this guy did his bed shortening and dealt with the bed sides ect. Thought it may help?

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...&postcount=195

I read this thread early on and it's what convinced me shortening the bed was doable. Not sure if it was this discussion or another one where it stated the end result was acceptable but not something you'd do if you were building a "show" truck. Right up my alley since my intent all along has been to build a driver and not plow big $$ into it. Still, I was left wondering how visible the modification might be once the bodywork was done.

[Vic1947]

Finished welding out the rear floor seam and got it ground down close enough for some touch up bodywork later. After the front section is done, I'll need to flip the whole thing over and lay it flat on the concrete so I can hammer out some of the small dents. There's nothing major, but left unattended, even the minor ones will show thru a spray in bedliner. (From what I've heard.) I'll also need to patch a crap ton of holes. The guy Scott got this bed from (or someone else along the line) had a thing for tie downs. Holes big and small, inside and out will have to be patched. No biggie as all the metal is solid.

I've got the front section out and fitted up temporarily. I'll need to sand to my lines tomorrow then start the welding process all over. I took a lot more care laying out my lines this time, so it won't take much to close the gaps.

[Vic1947]

Decided to satisfy my curiosity regarding where the main problems will be when the bedsides go together. Laid out all three pieces on the floor roughly how they will go and decided the rolled areas at the bottom look the worst. That may change when all the pieces are fixtured together. We'll see.

[sduckworth13]

Wow!! that rear floor section looks great Vic!

[Xeen]

Originally Posted by sduckworth13

Wow!! that rear floor section looks great Vic!

x2

[jeh]

Looks awesome Vic. Did the bed floor warp very much as you welded it?

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by jeh

Looks awesome Vic. Did the bed floor warp very much as you welded it?

Thanks guys, some shots below show virtually zero warpage in both X and Y. Kept it locked down with square tube until all welding/grinding was complete. Then released it from bondage.