Danny Boy is BAACK! w/ '55 Big Window

[Dan in Pasadena]

Thanks guys. She's still at "nose bleed" height. Not sure how soon I'll be able to afford to do anything about that? Maybe just pull a few leaves out of the pack - the only problem with that is the front has 5 leaves on one side and six(!) on the other.

Do I only need shorter U bolts to try this out? Yes, I know to get 6 degree caster wedges at NAPA. But I've never searched for U bolts before so will my local chain auto parts store have them? Home Depot? OSH?

[Number 9]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

Honestly? I haven't the slightest idea what motor mounts I have, DUH!

I welded shut three holes on each door panel today. The original owner had installed some pretty ugly (and huge!) rubber armrests with molded in door pulls. I ground the welds down with a flap disc - TRYING not to get too hot, not sure I succeeded - and mixed up a little Bondo to smooth things out a bit.

Tomorrow I'll sand and prime in preparation for my "final" (for a while) rattle can two-tone paint job in my revised (temporary) color palette of Rustoleum Oregano and Almond.

I forgot to take a picture of this work but took this generic one after washing it:

Looks great. You have a nice truck there.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Thank you No. 9.

At the little local car night at In 'N Out tonight a couple guys seemed surprised that the paint was rattle can stuff. I wish I could say I have some special trick with spray cans but I don't. I guess I guess it's just good stuff.

[mknittle]

Truck looks good Dan. I like that style wheels.

[mknittle]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

Thanks guys. She's still at "nose bleed" height. Not sure how soon I'll be able to afford to do anything about that? Maybe just pull a few leaves out of the pack - the only problem with that is the front has 5 leaves on one side and six(!) on the other.

Do I only need shorter U bolts to try this out? Yes, I know to get 6 degree caster wedges at NAPA. But I've never searched for U bolts before so will my local chain auto parts store have them? Home Depot? OSH?

U bolts and center bolts. Napa should Have them. if you need wedges I would get the steel ones from a 4X4 shop. some are cast aluminum and break apart. they can also cause electrolysis. 6 degrees of caster seems like quite a bit . I have always had good results with 4 degrees. Remember that the more caster the harder the steering. Especially if you have steering by Armstrong.

[Rude Dude]

Depends on how much thread you got left, most leaf spring shops can get the square style u-bolts longer and if you buy them from truck shop you can measure them at the store before pulling them a part. The front leaves should have the same amount of leaves on both sides. Common practice in the old days if a spring broke they would just pull a spring pack from junk yard and just swap it in not caring because it was a work truck or slide an extra spring to level the front end. I would pull them both off flip them upside down and measure the suspected bad spring arch and replace the spring that spring pack.

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

Thanks guys. She's still at "nose bleed" height. Not sure how soon I'll be able to afford to do anything about that? Maybe just pull a few leaves out of the pack - the only problem with that is the front has 5 leaves on one side and six(!) on the other.

Do I only need shorter U bolts to try this out? Yes, I know to get 6 degree caster wedges at NAPA. But I've never searched for U bolts before so will my local chain auto parts store have them? Home Depot? OSH?

[Number 9]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

Thank you No. 9.

At the little local car night at In 'N Out tonight a couple guys seemed surprised that the paint was rattle can stuff. I wish I could say I have some special trick with spray cans but I don't. I guess I guess it's just good stuff.

I did rattle can jade green rustolium on my 59 and it came out real nice.
Sad I'll never finish it. Would have been fun.

[Kim57]

The truck looks real nice.
Kim

[Dan in Pasadena]

Thanks mknittle!

I'd always read 6 degrees was THE way to go. Anyone else have an opinion on this? I don't have steering by Armstrong, I have steering by King Kong! lol.

Originally Posted by Rude Dude

... The front leaves should have the same amount of leaves on both sides...

DUH! Yeah, I figured that out.

It SEEMS to sit level, but my driveway isn't all that level side-to-side or front-to-back. I've been assuming one leaf broke and they simply pulled it out. But I suppose back in the day when these were "just a truck" it could have been that one side was sagging (for any number of reasons) and they pulled a leaf from the opposite side just to level it out without bothering to address whatever the real problem was.

I was hoping to not have to pull both the leaf packs out cause IF I have to do that I'll be very tempted to buy new lowering springs from The Truck Shop - and that IS spendy.

Originally Posted by Rude Dude

...Common practice in the old days if a spring broke they would just pull a spring pack from junk yard and just swap it in not caring because it was a work truck or slide an extra spring to level the front end...

Yeah, either of these scenarios make more sense than my ideas.

Originally Posted by Rude Dude

...I would pull them both off flip them upside down and measure the suspected bad spring arch and replace that spring pack..

Rudy,
Since I've never pulled leaf packs before: Just how big a pain in the balls is this? I have a strong 1/2" impact driver so if it's just brute strength, no problem - I think. What's the usual hassle, if there is one?

Checking The Truck Shop website:
http://www.truckandcarshop.com/trucks47_59/t47_097.html

This looks like another "slippery slope" project. Potentially 6 of the $13 kits & 2 of the $17 kits ($112) OR possibly up to as many as 8 of the $34-$35
($280!) shackle kits... or oooh! The whiz bang $65 2-1/2" lowering shackles. Then, "while I'm in there" - paint and the poly material, yada, yada!

[mknittle]

[QUOTE=Dan in Pasadena;6169529]Thanks mknittle!

I'd always read 6 degrees was THE way to go. Anyone else have an opinion on this? I don't have steering by Armstrong, I have steering by King Kong! lol.




DUH! Yeah, I figured that out.

It SEEMS to sit level, but my driveway isn't all that level side-to-side or front-to-back. I've been assuming one leaf broke and they simply pulled it out. But I suppose back in the day when these were "just a truck" it could have been that one side was sagging (for any number of reasons) and they pulled a leaf from the opposite side just to level it out without bothering to address whatever the real problem was.

I was hoping to not have to pull both the leaf packs out cause IF I have to do that I'll be very tempted to buy new lowering springs from The Truck Shop - and that IS spendy.



Yeah, either of these scenarios make more sense than my ideas.



Rudy,
Since I've never pulled leaf packs before: Just how big a pain in the balls is this? I have a strong 1/2" impact driver so if it's just brute strength, no problem - I think. What's the usual hassle, if there is one?


It isn't that hard. I have re-arched jeep springs and replaced center bolts on other trucks. I put a good sized "c" clamp on the spring when taking out the center bolt to prevent possible injury when/if the spring has tension and suddenly comes loose on the last thread of the nut/bolt.
The center bolt comes longer than you need and is used to compress the leafs then excess is cut off. so when you take it apart you only have a half inch at the most of thread where in may have been compressed an inch or more. If there is a add a leaf quite a bit more!

[Dan in Pasadena]

So I assume the procedure is jack up & remove wheels, then....what?

Take my impact gun to the shackle bolts and lower the springs & axle as one or remove the axle before dismounting spring packs from frame?

Either way, I put big C clamps on the spring pack before backing off the center bolt, right?
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[mknittle]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

So I assume the procedure is jack up & remove wheels, then....what?

Take my impact gun to the shackle bolts and lower the springs & axle as one or remove the axle before dismounting spring packs from frame?

Either way, I put big C clamps on the spring pack before backing off the center bolt, right?
Posted via Mobile Device

Yeah on the c clamp. just in case.

I like to take the axle off first then the springs It is just easier for me because I almost always work alone. and more lighter parts are easier than one big clumsy mass of parts. I learned that as a mobile mechanic for a tree service/logging company.

If you aren't doing anything but springs just block the axle so the brake hoses don't stretch and you have enough room to work. if you can. That way you don't have to mess with the mess of taking the brake hoses off.

[Number 9]

I put them together with a long bolt and clamp and put the right bolt in. Will mono leaf lower the front? Will long shackles in the rear change the pinion angle?
Your truck looks so good that if it were mine I would leave the paint the way it is. I mega like it..

[fabguy]

Originally Posted by Number 9

I put them together with a long bolt and clamp and put the right bolt in. Will mono leaf lower the front? Will long shackles in the rear change the pinion angle?
Your truck looks so good that if it were mine I would leave the paint the way it is. I mega like it..

I agree it looks GREAT, I seen it in person yesterday when I met Dan. I was hoping to hear the "rumpity rump rump" of the engine but had to leave early and get dinner for the family.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by mknittle

...If you aren't doing anything but springs just block the axle so the brake hoses don't stretch and you have enough room to work. if you can. That way you don't have to mess with the mess of taking the brake hoses off.

"If I'm not doing anything but springs..."

See, of course I INTEND to only do the springs but the "slippery slope" starts. My brake hoses are pretty checked and the fittings are rusty. So, "while I'm in there" I'll want to change the brake hoses: 4x$17=$68.

At the very least I'll be pulling leaves which possibly means new U bolts, either shorter ones or replacements for broken ones.

And that front mismatch makes me wonder if I won't have to replace the entire pack or have them re-arched for a sagging one.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by Number 9

...Your truck looks so good that if it were mine I would leave the paint the way it is. I mega like it..

Thank you, that's very nice of you. The green color is actually kind of growing on me. I think it looks good for rattle can stuff but I don't kid myself its any better than that. Paint inconsistency doesn't really show in photos.
But what it DOES have going for it is that I never worry about it, I can give a panel a quick going over with a Scotch Brite pad and re-spray it!

[Dan in Pasadena]

So here's a photo catch up post:

The windshield I replaced two weeks ago. Hard to see the spots are NOT water spots. It was loaded with pecks and severely wiper scratched on both sides.


Out with the old and in with the new:


The door panels/holes I welded up yesterday. I didn't remember to take a true Before photo but this at least shows where I welded, bondo'd and sanded:


After Duplicolor Self Etching Primer:




I had this primer left over from when I used it on my entire truck - big mistake. My truck looked like hell and I wanted it one color, but not the standard gray or red oxide primer. I loved this green but it turned out to have ZERO resistance to fading and rust started to develop in spots. SO...I went looking for something else and found the Oregano in satin.

[bobinbc]

Dan I just read your whole thread over the last couple days and I am amazed at how you have transformed your truck! I really like the way you have gone after all the mechanical stuff while tackling the cosmetics as you go, one panel at a time. I appreciate how tough it can be to do this sort of thing while keeping it running and not having a shop to work in. But I REALLY like the way you have done the 2 tone on the interior! The colors are great and look is really period, simply MAAHVELOUS! I would be happy to cruise that truck anywhere, anytime.

[mknittle]

Panels look good Dan.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by bobinbc

Dan I just read your whole thread over the last couple days and I am amazed at how you have transformed your truck! I really like the way you have gone after all the mechanical stuff while tackling the cosmetics as you go, one panel at a time. I appreciate how tough it can be to do this sort of thing while keeping it running and not having a shop to work in. But I REALLY like the way you have done the 2 tone on the interior! The colors are great and look is really period, simply MAAHVELOUS! I would be happy to cruise that truck anywhere, anytime.

Thanks Bob! Quite the compliment given how nice your '57 is. I had a '57 back about 15-16 years ago. I had to sell it when I was divorced after 20 years of marriage. It was a small window and had more rust than this truck does, plus I still had small children etc. I swore then I'd get the '55 big window I'd always wanted and couldn't pass up this one when it popped up having a V8/Auto/modern rearend already in it.

Yeah, it's kinda tough never being able to tear the truck down too far for a lack of space but on the other hand I can jump in it and make a run to Home Depot - as I'm about to do after I type this!!

As for the interior, it's gonna change...today! Not that much though. It's Sage & Celery which ooks good on the lower dash but its too...."celery-ish" to have it all over. Plus, the Sage matched the Duplicolor I originally used outside but not the Oregano it is now. I plan to switch to Oregano inside and unless I can find a nice complimentary light green I'll change it to Ivory or Almond. I THINK I've seen some Rustoleum "hammered" Ivory so I'm going looking for it now.

[Kim57]

The door panel came out nice.
Kim

[Dan in Pasadena]

Thanks Kim. I noticed this morning one of the welded holes still shows a bit - damn. I thought I'd done a better job. Bam's right that your weld skills improve a little bit every time you do it.

I'll throw some sandable primer on it later and build it up/smooth it out and hopefully that'll take care of it. I want to get the passenger interior completely done and painted this weekend so I can do the driver's door next week and hopefully throw the door weatherstrip on (FINALLY!) very soon.

[Daze57]

dan

make sure you have the door rubber weatherstrip facing the right direction !

[Dan in Pasadena]

Ha ha, yeah. I've seen how easy it is to get them on there backwards. Basically, my understanding is if the seal looks like its on the logical correct way, it's likely on wrong!

It should NOT conform to the inside of the door, it should kinda "L" out from the inside of the door so when you close it it kinda folds and forms a seal. Sound right?

[Dan in Pasadena]

Ok, I'm just back from a 40 mi freeway round trip. She ran good, but still makes me a little nervous...the steering is "approximate" at best and she still has a single master cylinder, seat belts not yet installed, and no emergency brake! I'm being a ninny, I know.

My Dad's '59 Fleetside took all five of my family to Seattle & back in '63 for the World's Fair w/a huge (for then) 10' camper on the back. Of course that truck was only 4 years old at the time and mine is almost SIXTY years old!! (Where'd the years go?!) I've had the drums off mine and the brakes show white moly lube on the backing plate rub points, new rubber plugs in the adjuster holes - the telltale signs of a professional job done right.

Anyway, it took two Lowe's and a Home Depot to find hammertone Rustoleum in "Rosemary" "Pearl Mist" and a light goldish color. I wanted Ivory or Almond, but no dice. I want the interior light and the hammertone covers a lot of minor sins.

I'm gonna do some samples and post them for some opinions from you guys. I've been hot and cold on this so I can't judge anymore, lol. Back in awhile.