Project 68 k10 LWB..aka "The Hulk"

[swamp rat]

Originally Posted by First c10

Hey Mike thank you! I still may run a small hole in the cross braces to run the filler neck vent. Just need to figure out the best way....

I drilled a hole and welded in a piece of small exhaust pipe if I remember correctly.

[7dee2]

Very nice!

[First c10]

Hi guys. It’s been 6 months since I last posted an update for the hulk. Well I haven’t touched the truck since June either. I decided to get back on it.
I met with my paint and body guy and discussed the order of operation on the body work.
I told him I would get the fuel filler completed and then finish up the metalwork on the hood the aftermarket cowl hood is a hot mess, but repairable.

Attached are pictures of the fuel filler mocked up. I have a little trimming to do and a brace to fab bit it’s in.
I really hope the 1-1/2” ID filler pipe is enough.
Now I have to figure out the vent hose.
Any ideas???

[DWilbur]

very cool fuel filler. I have similar shear break and roll I put it on casters with wheel locks and work good. to heave to move with out.

[First c10]

Thanks David. I have used it a few times and worked great. Even used it for a job and got paid. so win-win!

EDIT: oh and like you I installed casters after I posted the pictures here as it was too much work to move without them!!

[swamp rat]

Welcome back!

Don't know if your doing a taillight fill? Nice work so far!

[First c10]

Hey Brett,
Can you explain what you mean by "punch a second set of holes and run em together some how?"

[7dee2]

I was thinking adding a vent line to the fill neck up top for fast fill (adding an elbow). Also use the small vent line and attach to a bed rail or somewhere high as possible to vent the tank since your fill cap is not vented (?).

[First c10]

Originally Posted by 7dee2

I was thinking adding a vent line to the fill neck up top for fast fill (adding an elbow). Also use the small vent line and attach to a bed rail or somewhere high as possible to vent the tank since your fill cap is not vented (?).

Hey Brett,
That is what I was thinking of doing. The small vent line has the roll over valve on it already so I plan to put a screened vent up high. The 1/2" or 5/8" line to the filler is the line I think is the hardest for me to run and where to actually connect to the filler pipe.

[7dee2]

Originally Posted by First c10

Hey Brett,
That is what I was thinking of doing. The small vent line has the roll over valve on it already so I plan to put a screened vent up high. The 1/2" or 5/8" line to the filler is the line I think is the hardest for me to run and where to actually connect to the filler pipe.

Thinking pretty high up the line, slightly above the end of the fill nozzle to work properly is my guess. Not a lot of real estate in there to work this out but I'm sure you guys will be glad you did every time you put gas in it.

[swamp rat]

On my bedside door I used a late model S10 with the larger filer neck, it has a elbow attached already, then like what you did with your fill tube i welded a piece or pipe into one of the bed supports, by doing so i kept the burp tube from having a low spot where gas will pool up, which is the cause of backups from lack of venting.

[First c10]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

On my bedside door I used a late model S10 with the larger filer neck, it has a elbow attached already, then like what you did with your fill tube i welded a piece or pipe into one of the bed supports, by doing so i kept the burp tube from having a low spot where gas will pool up, which is the cause of backups from lack of venting.

I agree Mike,
that would be the correct way I think if I had an actual fuel door. This taillight door idea has some challenges.....it will be cool but only if I cant put fuel in her at a reasonable rate.!!!

[swamp rat]

I would think that if you attach a separate vent it needs to be as high as the filler or gas will come out of it when over filled.

[First c10]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

I would think that if you attach a separate vent it needs to be as high as the filler or gas will come out of it when over filled.

You are right Mike. I will run the small vent line up inside the bed sides. Like I did on my sons 70 when I put the fuel filler in the side marker light.

[First c10]

Has anyone used this bed kit?

Looks pretty cool.
LMC aluminum bed kit


VIDEO!

[lowrodderchev]

no but i just seen it on my classic car the other day look pretty cool

[DWilbur]

I got an email from LMC the other day on that product and looks cool won't have wood rot issues.

[First c10]

I am thinking about it for this project. Just need to change a few design ideas I had.
Painted slats and barn-wood maybe ???

[First c10]

Well been busy with the whole getting my son through graduation and ready for college. He is going to Idaho State university

The guy I had paint the firewall sold his business and became the shop teacher at the local high school. He calls me and asked if he could finish the truck in my shop during the summer. So I said heck yeah.
He is starting tomorrow.
Updates to follow and can’t wait.

[DWilbur]

That cool he is willing to finish the paint at your shop. Dose he do rot repairs. I have a Plymouth Satellite with rot.

[7dee2]

Really, looking forward to seeing your progress! It's going to be a sharp truck.

[First c10]

Hey DW. Yes he is going to use my equipment and space to get it ready to paint. He will take the truck to the school he teaches at as they have a brand new paint booth.

Thanks Brett
I can’t wait.

[First c10]

Working on door, cowl and hood gaps. the cowl induction hood is junk!!!! but looks cool. lol!

[First c10]

Update on body work.
20 hour in and has the cowl hood about right. Gaps are looking great staring on body work soon!!!

[7dee2]

Nice, sure does help when you get a body guy involved. The cowl hood is going to look very tough!