1976 Square "Simple Green"

[ray1970]

Ray here.
Talk to someone named Bryce. Doesn't really matter.
Called and a new controller is $195.00
Cheap I think to get things working the way I want...(no zip ties. No taking thing apart to put a cable in)

Ray.

Moving on........Thank you.....

[RodsGreen10]

I am trying to get the 700 installed and going before winter hits. We have been lucky so far no snow or ice and not cold yet.

[Big Kev-O]

My truck came with a Lokar bracket and the stainless 700r4 TV cable and it never functioned properly. The PO had the bracket and cable connected to the holley with no provision to correct the geometry. I bought the 700r4 linkage holley sells and it still wouldn't shift properly. I tried everything and could not get the Lokar stuff to work. Let us know how yours turn out. I would like to know the Lokar part numbers your using.Thanks.

[RodsGreen10]

Originally Posted by Big Kev-O

My truck came with a Lokar bracket and the stainless 700r4 TV cable and it never functioned properly. The PO had the bracket and cable connected to the holley with no provision to correct the geometry. I bought the 700r4 linkage holley sells and it still wouldn't shift properly. I tried everything and could not get the Lokar stuff to work. Let us know how yours turn out. I would like to know the Lokar part numbers your using.Thanks.

Will do man. My Lokar setup now works perfect with what I have now. I will let you know how it works out. But it shouldn't change all I will be doing is changing a cable out. I posted the Lokar bracket I am using now and I will use it with the 700 also. I will find the cables I am using and post those for you also.

[RodsGreen10]

Originally Posted by Big Kev-O

My truck came with a Lokar bracket and the stainless 700r4 TV cable and it never functioned properly. The PO had the bracket and cable connected to the holley with no provision to correct the geometry. I bought the 700r4 linkage holley sells and it still wouldn't shift properly. I tried everything and could not get the Lokar stuff to work. Let us know how yours turn out. I would like to know the Lokar part numbers your using.Thanks.

Here is the Lokar setup.
Bracket:
http://m.summitracing.com/parts/lok-tcb-4150

Throttle Cable:
http://m.summitracing.com/parts/lok-tc-1000ht

TH350 TV Cable:
http://m.summitracing.com/parts/lok-kd-2350ht

And this is the 700r4 TV Cable I will be getting
http://m.summitracing.com/parts/lok-kd-2700ht

[RodsGreen10]

Still having this damn cold start issue. Can't get it dialed in on cold start getting a little frustrated with it. Just like running a carb with no choke. I have a emails in to Ken and Jeremy waiting for a response. I have not had time to call them my papaw passed away this morning and I have not had time or been in the best of moods.

[RodsGreen10]

Ok got a email back. Evidently I have been making baby step adjustment for crank and after start. So this morning before work I made some big boy adjustments lol. I will test them after work see if that helped any.

[swampbog]

Originally Posted by RodsGreen10

I have not had time to call them my papaw passed away this morning and I have not had time or been in the best of moods.

Sorry to hear about your lost.

[RodsGreen10]

Originally Posted by swampbog

Sorry to hear about your lost.

Thanks man I appreciate that.

[Advanced Design]

Very sorry to hear of your loss.

[RodsGreen10]

Originally Posted by Advanced Design

Very sorry to hear of your loss.

Thank you. He is in a better place. And being honest when my Mamaw passed away 10 months ago he died inside that day. So it is sad about his passing but also a good thing now that they are together once again.

[LostMy65]

I'm very sorry for your loss.

Revelation 21:1-4

[RodsGreen10]

Originally Posted by LostMy65

I'm very sorry for your loss.

Revelation 21:1-4

Thanks.

[RodsGreen10]

But what is really starting to piss me off is this FiTech cold start issue cam home same **** just like a cold carb.

[ray1970]

Ray here.
After my go around with the controller I swore I would never say fitech again..

Im better now.

One thing I did find is if your battery is little old the motor will not start!!

Yes it turns over good but still no go?
The starter draws down the voltage below what the system will work at.
If the motor has been running it appears to be less of a problem.
My not be your problem but is a road I have been down...

Ray.

[RodsGreen10]

Well spoke with the heads at FiTech. And think we have it figured out. I ran the power to the block on the firewall next to the booster. Everything runs into that one location. So I am going to direct wire it to the batter and test it and see if that fixes it.

[RodsGreen10]

Originally Posted by ray1970

Ray here.
After my go around with the controller I swore I would never say fitech again..

Im better now.

One thing I did find is if your battery is little old the motor will not start!!

Yes it turns over good but still no go?
The starter draws down the voltage below what the system will work at.
If the motor has been running it appears to be less of a problem.
My not be your problem but is a road I have been down...

Ray.

Lol. Ray I just saw your post. The thing is my battery is new. And for ****s and giggles I hooked up a batter charger/jump to battery while cracking it.

[ray1970]

Ray here.
Another blunder I made when the motor would not fire was move the white wire(key on)
to the battery this would be fine BUT there are some changes that you need to power down for.....Hot wire= NO power down.....Yes I challenge myself the first night..

Ray.

[ray1970]

Ray here.
My battery was 4 years old but never used had my killer 50 year old boil your batter dry charger on it.....Man you could smell the battery boiling.

I had put my good battery in my truck and borrowed a battery from my fathers 55 that had not been used but sitting from 2012(its junk)

Ray.

[RodsGreen10]

Originally Posted by ray1970

Ray here.
Another blunder I made when the motor would not fire was move the white wire(key on)
to the battery this would be fine BUT there are some changes that you need to power down for.....Hot wire= NO power down.....Yes I challenge myself the first night..

Ray.

So how did you end up wiring the 12 volt hot wire not the ignition wire?

[RodsGreen10]

And I don't see what running it direct to the batter version running it to this in the pic below. They are both connected to battery and start. Either way the start will draw from either the battery or this location. Am I missing something cause it has been a ruff week and my mind is frazzled.

[ray1970]

Ray here.
The red wire goes to battery. 12v all the time....My msd box is the same way.
As long as you have a steady 12+volts it should be good..
The white wire goes to the key switch so you can turn something off?
To get something's to work that part needs to be shut down.

This was something I battled with when I became frustrated and stop thinking and started drinking.......Long story...

[RodsGreen10]

Originally Posted by ray1970

Ray here.
The red wire goes to battery. 12v all the time....My msd box is the same way.
As long as you have a steady 12+volts it should be good..
The white wire goes to the key switch so you can turn something off?
To get something's to work that part needs to be shut down.

This was something I battled with when I became frustrated and stop thinking and started drinking.......Long story...

That is just it. That box in the pic has 12 volts all the time. That is why I hooked it to that. It gets power from battery 24/7. What would be the difference hooking the red wire from the harness to battery vs that block? They both have 12v power all the time. That block is connect to battery.

[ray1970]

Ray here.
I don't see were it would be any different 12v is 12v as a general rule
Not being a GM kind of guy I don't have one of those blocks but I get the idea..

Ray.

[RodsGreen10]

Yep 12volts is 12 volts