Glock's new project: "Fred" w/ 5.3L LS swap info

[glock35ipsc]

Originally Posted by Codys87

Delphi - cs20010
Delco - 1520413

Looks like if one were to use this compressor, price-wise it would be better to find a junk yard one. The Delco part goes for $360 (with core) at Rockauto.com, and the Delphi number is $286 (no core).

With that in mind, I think I am going to stay with the Kwik Performance high mount ($342 for brackets and compressor). On my truck, I still have issues with the tranny cooler lines between the block and AC bracket. Had I known this sooner, I could have cut the cooler lines back near the trans and ran braided line all the way up and routed them under the engine stands. If a person is just starting their swap, and not as far along as I am, this style of compressor would definitely be the ticket though!

Of course, I don't plan on installing the AC until spring, so I might have a wild hair by then to re-do the tranny lines and install this one in the stock location! With me, you never know!

[menace121978]

just a thought... if someone were to go with the BRP kit for $450 they wouldnt need to get a different compressor or anything? only because the kit sits the motor higher up? it would end up almost a wash compared to buying the high mount a/c kit right?

[glock35ipsc]

The mount, and it's interference with the compressor and bracket, is a only one issue. The other is how and where the fittings connect to the compressor and what is in the way.

The problem with the compressor used on the 03 and up motors is that the only blocks that I can find available have threaded fittings that project straight up from the compressor body. Now, with the one Cody is using (99-02), there is a manifold available that has the threaded fittings exiting toward the rear:

Manifolds for my compressor (x2):

Manifold for Cory's compressor:

The adapters for my compressor are about 1-3/4" tall, NOT including the 90° fitting that threads on to it, and I only have 2" from the compressor body to the under side of the frame rail for the discharge fitting. All moving the compressor up does (where my engine sits -vs- Cody's) is give me less room under the rail.

At least with his compressor, he will be able to have 90° fitting that come straight up from the compressor, then loop over toward the inner wheel well, completely missing the edge of the frame rail.

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by glock35ipsc

Don't forget that upper radiator hose clamp at the radiator is not in place.

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by glock35ipsc

Mine is right at 1.5", so you are an inch higher. I still think it might work. But I'm not going to worry about AC until spring, so we have some time to figure it out. Or at least, I do.

If you used the taller mounts Cody used do you think the air intake tube would clear the top of the fan shroud?

Would the mechanical fan blade clear the top of the shroud if the engine was an inch higher or would you have to raise the shroud?

[glock35ipsc]

Originally Posted by 68 TT

Don't forget that upper radiator hose clamp at the radiator is not in place.

It's just mocked up for the photo op. I still have to put the fan on.

Originally Posted by 68 TT

If you used the taller mounts Cody used do you think the air intake tube would clear the top of the fan shroud?

Probably would, but then again, this is only temporary. I plan on making a 4" tube that runs over to the drivers side, then turning slightly towards the radiator support. I just happen to have this old intake setup in one of my sheds, so it got used just to get me going and to put the $$$ in other places.

Originally Posted by 68 TT

Would the mechanical fan blade clear the top of the shroud if the engine was an inch higher or would you have to raise the shroud?

I don't think an inch would matter too much. This setup just happens to almost perfectly centered the fan in the shroud. But this too is only temporary. The 06 truck electric fans are waaay too wide for the stock 85 radiator, so this is just to get me running and on the road. Later I'll build a custom shroud with a couple e-fans in it.

So in a few months the clutch fan, shroud and stock intake tube will all be bye-bye.

[mcbassin]

Originally Posted by glock35ipsc

Hehe, you should know me better by now!



It was the one on the engine when I got it, 2006 Silverado 5.3L 2wd ECSB.



I sat on the couch last night mulling over this, so I finally threw on some shoes and went back out to the shop. I removed the adapter/sending unit, and threaded the OEM plug back in to the head. It tightened firmly to the head, so I am confident it's not the threads in the head now. The adapter is REALLY light, so I'm not so sure it's made from a high grade aluminum. I put a couple extra wraps of teflon tape on the adapter's threads and put it back in. I just snugged it to the head, so I'll just keep an eye on it on I get it running to see if it's leaking. I'd rather buy another/different adapter any day that have to remove the head to repair or tap it.

Lesson learned! This was not one of the things I thought about when doing this swap, the temp gauge sending unit. Next time, I WILL tap the head and install it directly.

PS - yes, there is another LS swap in my future.

Bob,
I could make one of these fittings for you out of 303 Stainless. I doubt it would strip as easy as the aluminum fitting. Also, I would almost bet if that part you purchased is made from 6061 Aluminum. It's readily available and it's pretty strong.

Seriously, send me a drawing with the male end thread specs and I can program that part and send it to you. Not a problem we have fall off that would probably work for you.
Mike

[glock35ipsc]

Mike, that's awesome!! I'll get something drawn and send it to you.

[glock35ipsc]

Mike - PM me an email address, and I'll email you a .DXF drawing. It's not to scale, but it should give you what you need.

[glock35ipsc]

Hmmm, how's this? The female (top) is 3/8NPT, and the male threads are M12x1.5 and about 1/2" or so long. It is of course drilled straight through too.

It's about 1.75" tall (not including the 1/2" of male threads), and I think I used a 7/8" wrench to tighten it.

[tvblazer78]

What a cool pic. Looks sweet from the top..

[glock35ipsc]

Thanks Travis! Even got the spider webs in the pic!

[STOCKISH]

Man, that thing couldn't look more at home in that engine bay. Great work.

[tvblazer78]

Originally Posted by glock35ipsc

Thanks Travis! Even got the spider webs in the pic!

Is that what that is.

[mcbassin]

Originally Posted by glock35ipsc

Hmmm, how's this? The female (top) is 3/8NPT, and the male threads are M12x1.5 and about 1/2" or so long. It is of course drilled straight through too.

It's about 1.75" tall (not including the 1/2" of male threads), and I think I used a 7/8" wrench to tighten it.

This will work for the geometry. What about the pilot hole that runs through the metric side? Did it have an O-ring groove too?

[glock35ipsc]

Originally Posted by mcbassin

This will work for the geometry. What about the pilot hole that runs through the metric side? Did it have an O-ring groove too?

Actually, yes kind of. It has a brass washer instead of an o-ring but there is something of a groove between teh last thread and the base of the adapter.

Well.........

I got one of the tanks installed tonight, and did a pressure test of all the fittings. 55psi with key on and no leaks!

That's the good part. The bad part is I tried to fire it, and nada. I've got power to the fuel pump, power at all 3 ignition points on the fuse block, and power at the 1 battery hot point on the fuse block. I didn't really get into it beyond that, or else I may have been there all night until I found the problem! I don't have the passenger side O2 sensor yet, so nothing is plugged in there, but I don't think that would keep it from starting.

So I'll finish installing the other tank tomorrow after work and then leave it until Saturday. Maybe I will be able to come up with some ideas by then. I'll probably take up residence on top the engine with a wiring diagram and a DVOM and start checking all the sensors.

Now the real fun begins!!!!

[glock35ipsc]

I thought about this last night laying in bed. I need to check for spark of course, and that I'm getting the proper power and ground signals from the PCM to the injectors. But I feel fairly confident that the injectors are plugged. It's not uncommon at all for the injectors to plug if the engine has not been ran in a month or so, and this one has sat in my shop for a month now, and who knows how long it sat at Rancho. Plus I'm sure California puts about a million different additives in their fuel, so that's just more reason to think they are just plugged.

So if all the electrical tests check out, I'll probably pull the injectors and send them out to be ultrasonic cleaned, rebuilt and flow tested.

[menace121978]

Bob, Right on with no leaks!! I think your on the right path w/ the trouble shooting... of all the start-up threads i have read its 1) bad ground on the electrical 2) fuel pressure not between 58-61psi? and 3) there were a few with the clogged injectors and if i remember right they just lightly tapped on each injector while firing??..

[glock35ipsc]

Originally Posted by menace121978

and 3) there were a few with the clogged injectors and if i remember right they just lightly tapped on each injector while firing??..

Makes me wish now that I hadn't turned them 180° so they wouldn't be visible!

[menace121978]

i know what ya mean... if it will make you feel any better i'll put mine in turned around like yours before the 1st fire up

[glock35ipsc]

After a phone call to my old drag racing buddy Dave Slatten, I found out this guy in literally right down the street from me: http://www.totalinjection.us/

And I mean literally, right down the street! I can see the shop from my parking lot here at work!! I will probably be talking to him today!

i know what ya mean... if it will make you feel any better i'll put mine in turned around like yours before the 1st fire up

That would make me feel a little better!

[rongstad]

Originally Posted by menace121978

Bob, Right on with no leaks!! I think your on the right path w/ the trouble shooting... of all the start-up threads i have read its 1) bad ground on the electrical 2) fuel pressure not between 58-61psi? and 3) there were a few with the clogged injectors and if i remember right they just lightly tapped on each injector while firing??..

Dont forget a couple have been vats not being disabled...

[glock35ipsc]

True, but my experience with VATS is that it will start, but die shortly after.

Short of checking spark and power/ground to the injectors, I am leaning towards stuck injectors.

[Driveway Dreams]

Bob, I love the overhead shot. Glad to hear the preasure test went well. Now, ge the rest figured out. Way to go man!

By the way, I don't remember seeing anything about a driveshaft? Did the original one still fit or did you have one built, or did I just miss that all together?

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by glock35ipsc

Hmmm, how's this? The female (top) is 3/8NPT, and the male threads are M12x1.5 and about 1/2" or so long. It is of course drilled straight through too.

It's about 1.75" tall (not including the 1/2" of male threads), and I think I used a 7/8" wrench to tighten it.

I was a machinist in the Air Force for 13 years and worked at the flight test center repairing and building test aircraft parts & equipment and have made & redesigned many things like that over the years. There are a couple minor things you may want to fix if you are going to make a new one.

Where the small metric male threads transition to the hex stock put a 1/4" fillet radius there. It will increase the strength of the part tremendously.

It doesn't need to be that long either. Less length will put less load on the threads if you accidentally lean against it while working on the truck. It would suck to snap that thing off flush with the head. The closer you can get the sensor to the head the better.

If you can make it out of brass or aluminum bronze that would be much better too.

The stainless will need antisieze compound on it to keep from galling the threads and getting stuck in the head plus the galvanic corrosion from the dissimilar metals will cause the aluminum head to oxidize around the fitting possibly causing it to leak down the road.

Aluminum bronze or brass will only need Teflon tape as they are much closer to aluminum in the dissimilar metals range chart.

You could make it out of round stock and just put a set of wrenching flats on it to use more common scrap material.

If you did strip out the threads on the head you can always tap the head for the 3/8" pipe threads of the sensor and be done with the adapter. Just put some grease on the tap drill and on the tap and they will collect the shavings so they don't go into the water passage.