Project Goldilocks, '66 C10 SWB BBW Build

[theastronaut]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Why not stick w/the Truck-arm set-up & tweak it for your performance goals?

Not enough forward bite at the ride height I'm after. The forward trailing arm mounts would be lower than the axle. Shooting for 4-5" ride height at the frame rails under the cab. Plus the trailing arms run into the frame rails going that low unless tall drop blocks are used, or tube trailing arms are made with built-in drop.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by theastronaut

Not enough forward bite at the ride height I'm after. The forward trailing arm mounts would be lower than the axle. Shooting for 4-5" ride height at the frame rails under the cab. Plus the trailing arms run into the frame rails going that low unless tall drop blocks are used, or tube trailing arms are made with built-in drop.

Ok. I was thinking PB T/A's & just flip the front mounts as it raised the C/L 3" vs stock.

That seems easier (to me.... the KISS priciple) vs the planning, purchase, & execution of a 4-bar install since both would use the same Panhard bar configuration.

[aggie91]

Originally Posted by theastronaut

... I'm not looking forward to making the CTS-V brakes work on a straight axle, they have an internal drum parking brake.

Look at my thread for Sunburn, post 272 shows the brackets to mount the C5 drum in hat rear brakes on to the 12 bolt truck rear end. Starting at post 410, it shows the parts going toether after painting them.

I thought I had other pics during mock up in that thread, but I guess not.

I don't know much about the CTS-V brakes, but I would think that just the one bracket that mounts the caliper cage to the other bracket could be changed to make them work....If you are interested, We could work out a deal on letting you try out a set for mock up to have your local guy cut you some and maybe even modify/make the parts you need. PM me your phone number. I'll call you and we can discuss...

[theastronaut]

Originally Posted by aggie91

Look at my thread for Sunburn, post 272 shows the brackets to mount the C5 drum in hat rear brakes on to the 12 bolt truck rear end. Starting at post 410, it shows the parts going toether after painting them.

I thought I had other pics during mock up in that thread, but I guess not.

I don't know much about the CTS-V brakes, but I would think that just the one bracket that mounts the caliper cage to the other bracket could be changed to make them work....If you are interested, We could work out a deal on letting you try out a set for mock up to have your local guy cut you some and maybe even modify/make the parts you need. PM me your phone number. I'll call you and we can discuss...

Appreciate the offer! I don't even have an axle or the rear brake parts yet so I'm not ready for brackets any time soon. I'm pretty sure I'm going with a Ford 8.8 with 9" ends, so the flanges would be different anyways.


I came across this post while looking up the positives and negatives of different rear suspension designs. It's extremely detailed and informative, much of it is completely new to me so I'm trying to soak it all in still. Worth a read if you're into this kind of stuff.

http://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=42568

[SCOTI]

Ron is one smart cat.....

[aggie91]

Sorry John...Thought I sent you a PM yesterday.

Also, try Tobin at Kore3. Here is a link to the C6 big brake kit for the ford 9" ends.
http://www.kore3.com/proddetail.php?prod=10346-03

I think the CTS-V has larger diameter rotors, but they might have the parts you need to make it work....

[theastronaut]

Been picking up more parts and reading up on rear suspensions and axles... There's a lot of info to read and digest, then try to make a smart decision. At the moment I've settled on a three link for the rear with a full width panhard rod. Seems to be the best choice for forward bite, tunability, and articulation without binding. The panhard will let me set up the truck to turn better left or right for courses that have more left or right turns. Or set it level


I've decided to ditch the 8.8 and go with a full floating 9", problably from Schreiner Interprises. The early Shelby guys use them and I haven't seen anything bad about them yet. This will take care of the axle end play/pad knock back issues.

http://www.9inchfloater.com/Complete...rEnd_28_31.htm




Bought a NOS hood repair panel.




Finally found a pair of Cibie fog/driving light covers. These were reproduces a few years ago but I missed out on the ones shipped to the US. These showed up on the German eBay so I had to grab them.





And this portion of the program is brought to you by Arby's... "We have the meat." I picked up a set of 335/30-18" BF Goodrich G-Force KDW tires to get the truck rolling. They're not as sticky as I'd like for autocross or track days but they'll be perfect for the street. I knew they would be wide, but I wasn't expecting them to nearly come to the top of the S10's bed sides! I dropped off the front wheels to have them mounted this morning so the front will be rolling shortly.

[ajgriffin]

Originally Posted by theastronaut

The manifold and calipers came today. Moved the frame into it's permanent spot for the winter, so I'll level it and move on to building the A-arms. Still haven't found a source for bare 73-87 LCA shafts at a reasonable price so I'm going to LKQ tomorrow to dig around.

The calipers are huge. I've seen them on a CTS-V before but their size can't be fully appreciated until they're off the car. Over a foot long!

First off, I enjoy watching you work! Always top notch! I do have a question: are those the same CTS-V brake calipers you purchased earlier in the thread? How'd you go about switching the logo to "Brembo"?

[theastronaut]

Originally Posted by ajgriffin

First off, I enjoy watching you work! Always top notch! I do have a question: are those the same CTS-V brake calipers you purchased earlier in the thread? How'd you go about switching the logo to "Brembo"?

Appreciate it! They are the same calipers, I tried to wetsand the CTS-V logo off but that didn't work- the yellow paint sanded through before all of the black logo came off. I'll have to repaint the calipers to fix it properly. The Brembo logos are just vinyl decals, I have an extra set to use as masks for when I repaint the calipers.

[tinydb84]

Man those tires look great!! I am going to have to reread everything to see how you got them to fit lol

[greg65]

Dude that's a tire. Can't wait to the front rollin.

[LoRollinLS]

Lookin' good man!

Those tires are absolutely HUGE!

[aggie91]

John,

Have a look at this thread...
http://www.lateral-g.net/forums/show...=17744&page=38

Starting on post #548, Mark talks about updating the car. On post 607, he shows the wheel and front brakes (ZR1, 394mm rotors). Post 731 talks about the wheel specs. Post 747 there are pics of the rear end with new axle ends from Detroit Speed to mount the ZR! hubs and brakes and make the 9" a floater. Read thru his posts and you can get a lot of info on the set up.

Just an FYI, more food for thought....

BTW, can't wait to see the front rolling with those meats...

[theastronaut]

Originally Posted by tinydb84

Man those tires look great!! I am going to have to reread everything to see how you got them to fit lol

Originally Posted by greg65

Dude that's a tire. Can't wait to the front rollin.

Originally Posted by LoRollinLS

Lookin' good man!

Those tires are absolutely HUGE!

I'm looking for wider wheels, the Z06 reps I had were nowhere near wide enough to fit the 335's. Hopefully I can come up with some roller wheels soon... I can't wait to see it either!

Originally Posted by aggie91

John,

Have a look at this thread...
http://www.lateral-g.net/forums/show...=17744&page=38

Starting on post #548, Mark talks about updating the car. On post 607, he shows the wheel and front brakes (ZR1, 394mm rotors). Post 731 talks about the wheel specs. Post 747 there are pics of the rear end with new axle ends from Detroit Speed to mount the ZR! hubs and brakes and make the 9" a floater. Read thru his posts and you can get a lot of info on the set up.

Just an FYI, more food for thought....

BTW, can't wait to see the front rolling with those meats...

That is a goldmine of info!! I absolutely love the idea of using the ZR1 hubs, the floater was looking like a good option but the maintenance was going to be a hassle with the amount of street miles it would see. The vette hubs look like my best option- no mainenance, no pad knock back, and C6 brakes bolt straight on and have a parking brake. Thanks a ton for that link!!

[aggie91]

When I saw you were looking at the floater, Mark's car was the first I thought of. Hopefully Detroit Speed can get you the info you need on those ends and the rest of the rear...

[theastronaut]

Originally Posted by aggie91

When I saw you were looking at the floater, Mark's car was the first I thought of. Hopefully Detroit Speed can get you the info you need on those ends and the rest of the rear...

I signed up on Lateral-g and asked Mark if there was a part number for the ends.


I did find a source for a complete axle assembly using the ZR1 hub assembly. They'll only build a complete axle though, won't sell the ends separately.

http://www.speedtech-performance.com...d=84/prd84.htm

[edflores]

What rear c notches are you using?

[theastronaut]

Originally Posted by edflores

What rear c notches are you using?

Those were CPP notches. They're long gone, going in a different direction now.

[edflores]

Originally Posted by theastronaut

Those were CPP notches. They're long gone, going in a different direction now.

Whats the plan now?

[theastronaut]

Originally Posted by edflores

Whats the plan now?

Possibly Z'ing the frame to raise the rails. I really want to be able to tow with the truck so I want the full frame rail height over the axle.

[tinydb84]

Astronaut-Just wanted to let you know I am stealing your idea to move my engine down:

Not as pretty as yours though!

[Wizit247]

Originally Posted by theastronaut

Chopped the crossmember today to raise the bag mount area. I need to get some plate and 10" pipe to box the area in. At this point I've realized I would have been better off to buy a No Limit WideRide crossmember...


2" cut out.









7" tall now. That'll shrink a little once I plate the mounting pad but it's a major improvement!

Following to see how you mount the top of the bag. I have been thinking about cutting mu upper mount instead of the lower arms similar to what you have done.

[LostMy65]

Originally Posted by theastronaut

Paint was Krylon Oxford Blue, Satin.


.

Cool color.
I wonder if they sell it in quarts.

[theastronaut]

I stuck the front end together enough to get it rolling. We may be moving to another shop soon so I needed to make the truck roll. First time it's rolled on it's on in awhile...

I also bought a reproduction floor mat from Fred's Truck Parts. These have been out of production for years now and I looked everywhere trying to find one. The mats from Fred's are much nicer than the previous reproductions.

I've been saving up and selling off some of my extra cars to build a garage/apartment and I haven't been spending much on any of my projects lately, so there won't be any big updates for awhile. The rear axle/suspension/brakes are going to run around $5k... can't drop that on it anytime soon. My plan is to build without going into debt, so once it's built I won't have a monthly payment, which equals more parts money. I've never been one that likes to save money but making some sacrifices now will pay off later.



Couple pics of the front on the ground for the first time.







And the floor mat.

[likaroc13]

Good luck with the move! Sounds like you have a good plan with priorities in line. It's not worth it to put debt/strain on yourself to build a toy, only to have that affect other parts of your life. It may take longer to build, but it'll pay off in the end as you mentioned. The front end looks good together, & I dig the repro rubber mat. Thanks for sharing your thoughts on it in the floor mat thread. Looking forward to your continued progress once it resumes.