61K10 build

[61K10]

I agree Joe--will post up some pics when i ever get this new brake system up and running.

[aotte1]

Kimble,

Still working on my front springs, got the two front bushing ordered, and four for the rear. Looks like the rear did not get greased enough. The threads are gone on part of one bushing. On the other one still have not got the pin out of the bushing. However, did get the bushing out of the spring eye.
Last photo shows it being soaked to try and get it loose. The rear shackle holding it is being replaced. Really like the Kroil for getting parts free. This part has been soaked for weeks now off and on, now that it is out and verticle can keep it saturated. Tomorrow plan to put air pressure on the grease fitting hole to see if can force Kroil in more.
Les

[61K10]

Les--are they the same as the front spring rear bushings pins? I have some pins from my front that aren't bad. yours if you want them.

[aotte1]

Kimble,

Yes, this is picture of front spring rear bushing with pin frozen in it . Would likely be interested in your front spring rear pin, if it is the same. The place Ron suggested in an earlier post here, showed a break for 60 to 63, And 64 to 66 for the front rear shackles. Them not showing pictures, do not know what the differences are. Did post photos of '64 rear shackles minus the bushing to my build yesterday.

Ordered front bushing, they are one piece for each eye of front spring. Out of stock on these, back ordered, however, should have in about two weeks. Tried to order the rear shackle kit for '64 front springs and they are out. Not sure when or if they will have them back in stock. They are trying to get four rear bushings with the treads inside.

Will likely have some rear spring shackle parts extra you are welcome too also, will keep you informed.

Les

[61K10]

A little up-date. my wheels go around again. ft hubs lock in and out ok. having a little problem getting my clutch adjusted with Capt's clutch set-up. bought some 1 1/2" wheel spacers for the rear to move the wheels out to match the front track. Don't know if i will run them, but it looks much better with the wheel/tires in alignment. will post up some pics when i get it out of the garage when i get my clutch working.

[aotte1]

Kimble,

Sounds all good. Just a heads up, you probably know, for wheel spacers, it is good to only use billet alu. ones, as they are much more stable and more likely not to cause the wheels to come loose. Also if using spacers I check the lug nut torque a lot, when first installing them.

Les

[61K10]

not going to use them--tires out farther look good but with 6" rims the backing plate shows to much. they are billet.

[sokoloka]

My apologies if this has already been covered - what color was the truck before you repainted it? Was it also neptune green, just faded?

Truck looks FANTASTIC. Love it.

[61K10]

sokoloka--thanks for the thumbs-up. the org color is Neptune green as it is now. the green on the tk was rattle-can green by the po. under the green was a red bottom and white top as it was a fire/rescue tk at one time.

[60sIron]

Originally Posted by 61K10

I think i finally got all my parts for my ft axle project. correct bushing for the ft hubs (don't have to cut the outer axle down) started on my new brake lines for the new master cyl. I still need a 1 1/2" hole saw for Captain's mounting plate hole in the fire wall. this is the only mod that will need a plug is ever wanting to put everything back to stock.

pics--old needle bearing in hub and new bushing in hub

brake line on driver's side (you can see my frame is not blasted perfect) I did the best i could with my little blasted.

I need my skinny tires!

Hey Kimble I love following this tread! I look forward to starting on my K10. First I want to do a few thinks to my K20 Burb to make it a little more friendly to drive daily.
First is disc brakes. What bushing did you use? I'd rather not turn down my axles.
Second, why did the track change on the truck? I was under the impression that by converting the closed knuckle 44 the width stayed the same. This is why I've never considered an open knuckle 44 as they are wider.
Keep up the strong work, you motivate more people than you know!
Greg

[61K10]

Hi Greg-- the disc brake change only changes the ft track about 1/4" wider becouse of the caliper holders. the 1/2 ton the rear is narrower than the front from the factory. never really measured it, but is narrower with an HO rear.
the bushings i bought off e-bay--oilite bronze flange bushing 1 1/8id x1 5/8od x 1" and they fit perfect in the spindle. find an open knuckle dana axle for all the parts as it will be cheaper. even if just for the spindles and hubs. I didn't like the way the brakes were, even with everything new. hope the disc setup will satisfy me safety wise, and it can all go back to org if someone wants.

sneak pic of my skinny's and tool box. at 72" it's still a little short. good enough for a few tools and jack. Still need to build a headache rack.

kimble

[61K10]

well i have my new brakes/clutch all installed---brakes work great but the power booster makes noise when putting on the brakes, like a vac leak? It's new. the clutch is another problem. I have Captian's firewall plate and clutch set-up. not enough adj to get the clutch so it doesn't engage right off the floor? seams the rod on the wilwood master moves some before it does anything---someday it will be done lol!

[MitchFloyd]

Nice job Kimble! truck looks good.

[mattbert56]

Some day it will be done you say now we all know that's not true. Trucks lookin good man. Love the skinnys

[pimpston65]

a daily driven show truck at its finest!!!

[61K10]

MR P--- it hasn't been a daily yet------everything i buy needs some modifying!! I guess i should just build some stuff myself--too old lol! AND if i get it safe it is by no means a show tk. your stuff is the stuff you don't don't to drive Mr-P. keep up the nos work.

[pimpston65]

Originally Posted by 61K10

MR P--- it hasn't been a daily yet------everything i buy needs some modifying!! I guess i should just build some stuff myself--too old lol! AND if i get it safe it is by no means a show tk. your stuff is the stuff you don't don't to drive Mr-P. keep up the nos work.

at least yours rolls, mine is a pile of parts!!! I just like the boxes the parts come in...

[argonaut]

Haven't been on the website much lately, life happens, so I just caught up with your progress. Your comment about the hydraulic clutch is interesting to me because, though my pedal setup is different I'm also using a wildwood master of the correct bore diameter, along with a factory slave cylinder (1986 style) and mine engages right off the floor too. It is very irritating to me. But there really is no method of adjusting a hydraulic clutch.... let us know if you come up with something.

[61K10]

Jason--I actually adjusted it some by extending the linkage so the push rod went into the wilwood master(a little) and it helped as it moved the pedal of the floor some. Need to get a longer threaded rod for just a little more adj.

[61K10]

still messing with my brake pedal to booster rod as it s a pita to adjust. ordered some parts to make a turn-buckle type rod for easy adjustment. changed the booster to a 9"dual instead of the single, and it make noise also--never ends lol!

[aotte1]

Kimble,

Very nice looking, understand how much time it takes to get the parts to work, and it seems to me the older the truck the harder it is sometimes. But we have learned not to rush, getting it right is more important.

And old drag racers parts bin has been my, new friend, on this subject for me. Using an old SFI blow proof bell housing, that SS drag racer gave up on for lighter one. It allows me to attach newer trans and keep mechanical clutch mechanism. Once getting it all welded up and machined will post more on it. Being from old parts bin, it can be affordable.

Trying to remember, is your hydraulic cylinder lever to bell housing fork adjustable? I have set- up out of '65 big truck, same bell housing as early 60s, and thinking the lever/ Rod and fork nut was adjustable??? Also, can you use a throw out bearing that has a different thickness, to help with adjustment too. ( stick drag racer have boxes full of bearings with different thickness for adjustment of clutch clearance.). Flywheel/ clutch shop that services drag racer should have them, here in louisville we use "Kentucky Clutch".

Les

[61K10]

Les-- being an old drag racer myself, yes parts and the knowledge of yester year helps a bunch. I have a buddy that still races at the age of 68 with a dragster--572 mopar B-1 on NOS--runs 6.95 at 195. to fast for me--
the adjust on my hyd clutch at the bell/housing is for the throw-out bearing only. it's ok as it's grabs not to far off the floor. can live with it. Building a brake pedal push rod now. will post up when i finish it.

Kimble

[mattbert56]

lookin pretty sharp kimble! check your pm box!!!!

[aotte1]

Kimble,

Starting to prepare the '79 Dana 44 for installation on the frame soon to be back home.

Question, on the front brake hoses you are using, what application are they for? And length? Do you remember what length your original drums were? Starting with '79s to see how they fit; disk calipers connection no problem, length and connection to frame fitting needs to be checked. Looked at the Doorman images of the '64 drum hose and '79 disk brake hose , the non-caliper ends look similar, not sure if threads are the same.

Your new Toyo 215x85x16 tires, what model are they? Are they radial? Have not found them on Toyo's web site.

Thanks,
Les

[61K10]

brake hoses are from a 1ton van and are 22"or23" long will look for the part#. thr tires are listed as m55's and are a 10ply radial and aren't cheap. BFG makes a tire that looks close and is I think 6 or 8 ply and way cheaper.

kimble