57 Chevy Wagon - Californa Dreamin'

[Ol Blue K20]

It sure does look good. A very nice stance. Looks like it was fun and the rain is making California jealous.

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by Ol Blue K20

It sure does look good. A very nice stance. Looks like it was fun and the rain is making California jealous.

Thanks, Dale - wish we could have sent the rain your way, I know you could use it! Hope you're not in harms way. Looks like the Cache and Caldor fires are a ways from you so hopefully nothing will spring up in your vicinity.

The stance may change somewhat. I'm researching springs as we speak. The Hyperco springs that came with the chassis are a bit soft for road use. The front rate is 575# and probably needs to be closer to 625 or 650# Don't know yet what I have in the back, but I'm sure I need to step up there as well. So after adjustment, the look should be about the same - maybe a tad higher depending on what I come up with.

What a day - what a day - what a day! I got the headers and pipes off, only to find the wires going to the coolant temp sensor on the driver side were burned and intermittently shorting together. We kept seeing the temp on the laptop jump around but I was blaming it on a possible poor ground for the MSD ignition controller. According to the gurus on the web, that's a common problem with those boxes and can cause all sorts of gremlins. But in my case, it appears to be yet another side effect of the heat from the SS headers. As you can see, they're now consigned to the dustbin of history.

After repairing the temp sensor wires, I test fit the stock manifolds. There's way lots more room now. I'll post photos when I'm finished. Right now I'm waiting for a product called Zycoat from Eastwood to apply that's supposed to help contain the heat.

I needed to change the oil as the engine now has about 2K miles on it. It was really nasty looking and smelled terrible. Went to auto parts and bought a high performance filter and full synthetic oil but when I got home, the filter didn't fit. Turns out the Mast Motorsports pan has a smaller, LS2 thread for the filter. So I had to return the one I just bought. The filter that came on the engine was an inexpensive AC-Delco version. Not sure why you'd put a $4 filter on an expensive engine. Of course, if I'd changed oil at 500 miles like I should have (before leaving on our trip) we wouldn't be having this conversation.

The 1" bore Wilwood master cylinder arrived today. I plan to swap it out for the 1.125" one in the car. The guys at Wilwood said I'd like it a lot better. The bigger bore is better suited to the HydraBoost setups. Even with good vacuum from the Leed pump, the 8" dual diaphragm booster is hard pressed to build the pressure in the lines you need for panic stops. And we had one of those on the trip which is what prompted the switch.

[Vic1947]

Still fixing things. Received the ZyBar coating and applied it to both exhaust manifolds. It was very runny but sprayed out fine. I'm unsure how effective it will be at reducing the heat. They claim a 90% reduction in radiated heat, but that might be for a thicker coat than I was able to get out of the 4 oz. can I bought. At $80, it was some pretty expensive snake oil. If it doesn't flake off under operating conditions, I'll consider it a win.

The exhaust system revision is progressing nicely. I reinstalled the H-pipe I'd removed long ago. I found that moving it back 3" let it clear the shifter cable and still have adequate spacing between it and the E-Stopp. I was short one 90 deg. tubing bend but it should be here today. Once it arrives, I'll be able to connect the manifold flanges. I'm hoping the combination of the cast iron manifolds and the H-pipe will reduce the noise level a bit. Not to mention lowering the underhood temps.

I also installed a Flex-A-Lite aux trans cooler. I didn't want it in front of the radiator which is probably where it would work best, so I located it under the splash pan. There's a factory opening in the pan right above it which should direct at least some air from the high pressure area across the fins. Once I get back on the road, I'll connect the laptop to see if it's working. Typically, the trans has been running about 15 degrees hotter than the radiator. If that narrows down a bit, I'll assume it's the cooler.

[jlsanborn]

That coating looks great! I'm about to sandblast the storage paint off my headers and had planned on VHT black. My confidence in durability isn't very high. I'll have to look into this stuff! Is it purpose made for cast?

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by jlsanborn

That coating looks great! I'm about to sandblast the storage paint off my headers and had planned on VHT black. My confidence in durability isn't very high. I'll have to look into this stuff! Is it purpose made for cast?

No, it will go over headers as well, but they do recommend that you sandblast the surface before application. They offer three colors - cast, bronze and black. I think the cast looks more like aluminum though. The instructions for headers said to take a small patch of cloth and wrap a wire around it then dip it into the coating and use it to swab the inside of the tubes. Since I was dealing with much shorter lengths I didn't do that. Instead, I focused the spray pattern and shot it down inside the manifolds.

The expense is a factor. There probably comes a point where it's almost as cost effective to have the parts ceramic coated as it is to DIY. Of course, when you do it yourself, you have control over the timing and the quality of the prep, etc. If you send it out, that goes away and you're at the mercy of the business doing the work.

Time will tell if it's durable or not. The guys at Hot Rod Express said they go thru several heat/cool cycles before putting the headers in service. Run the engine until you see a small amount of smoke come off the headers/manifold and then shut it off and cool down completely. Doing that several times will help cure the coating. When I get everything buttoned back up next week, I'll post an update.

[Vic1947]

I'm completely exhausted or more accurately, the exhaust system overhaul is done. I moved the O2 sensor bung back 24" per the recommendation from Innovate so I hope that contributes to a longer lifespan for the sensor. And, as I may have mentioned earlier, I was able to relocate the H-pipe rearwards which allows it to clear everything comfortably.

With the exhaust revisions complete, I crossed off a few other items on the punch list. I affixed a standoff to the top edge of the trans cooler so it's solid now. I wasn't happy with the way the PCV system was operating so I moved the clean air side filter to the inside of the air cleaner and hooked the hose to both valve covers instead of just one. I also sealed up the catch can fittings better than they were originally. There was only a couple of teaspoons of oil in the reservoir after the trip, but I don't know if that was the result of an efficient engine or poor performance of the PCV setup. I'll know more in a couple of weeks after we take another trip.

I also adjusted the coil overs. I tightened up the springs an inch in the rear and a half inch up front. Also went one click firmer on the single adjustable shocks. As crappy as most of the roads are, it shouldn't take long to find out if the changes helped.

Tomorrow I'll be pulling the passenger front seat and the console to access the wiring. I need to run the new temp sensor wire to the Dakota Digital brain box. I also have to snip some zip ties to give the O2 sensor some slack. It won't reach the relocated bung as things sit now. Then I need to spend a couple of days cleaning up. The underside of the car got oiled down from trans fluid puking out the overflow on the trip to the TFN. I was concerned about that when we overfilled it while shaking the car down. I drained 8 quarts out of the trans but only put 6 back in. I'll watch the pressure gauge to see if I need to add more, but I'm betting it will be okay just a little over the full mark.

[Low Elco]

Glad to see she's back on her wheels!

[Ol Blue K20]

Looking good, I hope this cures most of the bugs.

[mongocanfly]

Breather inside a breather.....pretty slick

[jlsanborn]

Originally Posted by Vic1947

No, it will go over headers as well, but they do recommend that you sandblast the surface before application. They offer three colors - cast, bronze and black. I think the cast looks more like aluminum though. The instructions for headers said to take a small patch of cloth and wrap a wire around it then dip it into the coating and use it to swab the inside of the tubes. Since I was dealing with much shorter lengths I didn't do that. Instead, I focused the spray pattern and shot it down inside the manifolds.

The expense is a factor. There probably comes a point where it's almost as cost effective to have the parts ceramic coated as it is to DIY. Of course, when you do it yourself, you have control over the timing and the quality of the prep, etc. If you send it out, that goes away and you're at the mercy of the business doing the work.

Time will tell if it's durable or not. The guys at Hot Rod Express said they go thru several heat/cool cycles before putting the headers in service. Run the engine until you see a small amount of smoke come off the headers/manifold and then shut it off and cool down completely. Doing that several times will help cure the coating. When I get everything buttoned back up next week, I'll post an update.

The VHT application process is similar but I've never had the patience to do it! The headers on the Dirty Girl look ok on the top sides but exactly how you'd expect on the bottom. I want to do better than that on the C10. Thanks for the details! That process will be coming soon.

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by Low Elco

Glad to see she's back on her wheels!

You and me both, Chip. Spent all day yesterday cleaning bugs and road grime off the top and underneath. I may need to be a bit more careful about the weather forecast in the future.

Originally Posted by Ol Blue K20

Looking good, I hope this cures most of the bugs.

Thanks, Dale. They're getting sorted slowly but surely. I went for a test drive this afternoon and let it sit and idle for a long time. Never got over 195. But then again, the outside temperature is 85 instead of 95 like we experienced on the trip. I need to make a longer run to build more heat into the engine to know for sure. I have a sneaking suspicion I still may be revising the puller fans over the winter.

Originally Posted by mongocanfly

Breather inside a breather.....pretty slick

Thanks, Greg. The instructions for the Moroso breather setups say to plumb the clean air side into the intake tube in front of the throttle blade, so the "old school" equivalent for me would be the location I picked. We'll see how well it works after I put a few hundred miles on it next week. If the breather stays dry and the catch can doesn't trap too much oil, I'll take that as a good sign.

Originally Posted by jlsanborn

The VHT application process is similar but I've never had the patience to do it! The headers on the Dirty Girl look ok on the top sides but exactly how you'd expect on the bottom. I want to do better than that on the C10. Thanks for the details! That process will be coming soon.

Glad to help, John. I followed the procedure suggested by the guys at HRE and let the engine warm up until I saw a little smoke coming off the manifolds and then shut it down and let it cool off. There was very little smoke but I repeated the process twice more and then went for a drive. Manifolds look the same as when I installed them. I'll know more after some road trips, but right now it would appear to be a good solution.

The exhaust note is radically different than before with the new manifolds and H-pipe. I can still hear the exhaust but it sounds like it's coming from the very back of the car instead of right under me. May actually be able to listen to some tunes going down the road.

The change in the spring height also made a difference. Ride is a bit more harsh, but it didn't seem to bottom out going over bumps. The true test will be crossing bridges at highway speed.

I still have a few items left on my punch list, but if the weather cooperates, we may hit a cruise in or two this weekend.

[Ol Blue K20]

Sounds like you may get through that punch list yet.

[Blue GMC]

Man I am truly impressed!!! Read the whole build in the last 2 days and it has got to be frustrating to bee so close when the gremlins started. Looking forward to seeing the final solution to the problems had the same issues with heat and ac on my truck and 10 years later still fighting the trans.

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by Ol Blue K20

Sounds like you may get through that punch list yet.

Two steps forward, one step back, Dale. But I plan to succeed.

Originally Posted by Blue GMC

Man I am truly impressed!!! Read the whole build in the last 2 days and it has got to be frustrating to bee so close when the gremlins started. Looking forward to seeing the final solution to the problems had the same issues with heat and ac on my truck and 10 years later still fighting the trans.

Thanks! I've never had a build with so many things go kaput - particularly at the end when it should be just minor tweaking.

Case in point, after my test drive yesterday, I decided to change the adjustment on the shocks just slightly. When I reached under the driver side rear for the knob, I grabbed the tire and realized the backside was greasy/sticky. Upon further inspection, I could see the axle seal has been leaking. Not a huge amount, but more than enough to cause problems. The caliper, rotor, e-brake and the inside of the rim were coated with 90W rear end grease. A small amount had slung up into the wheel well, but it didn't appear to be dripping off of anything - yet.

So, the axle is out and a cursory look see didn't reveal any obvious defects. The axle assembly came preassembled with the chassis from Roadster Shop. I reckon I need to get a good light and my magnifier to see if I can find the cause of the leak and then come up with a plan to fix it.

[Low Elco]

Per the Bishop in Caddyshack- "RAT FARTS!"

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by Low Elco

Per the Bishop in Caddyshack- "RAT FARTS!"

Amen to that!

So the problem would appear to be some hairline cracks in the outer rubber ring. After cleaning it good and then pre-lubing the taper roller bearing, I saw some seepage thru the rubber in a couple of places. For now, I'm going to apply a thin coat of RTV to it and then carefully assemble the whole mess. I don't hold out a lot of hope this will totally fix the problem, but it may patch it sufficiently to get me into winter when I can press it apart and put a new seal in. Don't try this at home, kids - test driver on closed course - etc., etc.

[mongocanfly]

i had a axle seal start leaking once for no apparent reason..when i pulled it apart it all looked good..then i found the cause..the spring inside the lip seal was broken..

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by mongocanfly

i had a axle seal start leaking once for no apparent reason..when i pulled it apart it all looked good..then i found the cause..the spring inside the lip seal was broken..

These Ford seals are built a little differently. They have a inner, double lip that rides on the axle and an outer rubber ring that seals against the housing axle flange. Looks like the outer part has developed these micro cracks for some reason. I'll attempt to patch it for now, but won't be surprised when I have to revisit it down the road. I'd just like to make a few more cruise-in's before the end of the season. Seems like I missed so much this year due to all the stuff I've had to fix. There will be plenty of time to break out the wrenches this winter.

[Vic1947]

We took a 550 mile road trip to visit some friends and attend a cruise over the weekend. The rear axle problem appears to be 99% contained. I had one small spot on the backside of the rim that looked like a few drops of axle lube may have dripped onto it, but other than that, no signs of major trouble. I've added a new seal to my winter makeover list.

Speaking of that, my list now includes:
1. Replace the 3000-3200 rpm stall converter with one closer to stock - like a 1600-2000 unit.
2. Take another stab at the EFI using my intake setup and Holley's Terminator X controller.
3. Replace the dual Perma Cool fans with Spal fans that actually move air.
4. Repair a small spot on the roof that's lifting due to my improper prep.

There's certain to be more, but those are the biggies. We have a few more cruise-in's and car shows to attend before the car gets blown apart for repairs, so meanwhile, I decided to test another linkage setup on the dual quads. Ever since I put the carbs on, I've been using a progressive linkage that mainly runs off the rear carb. In fact, the front carb has the idle mixture screws all the way in and the primary throttle blades completely closed until the rear carb reaches half throttle. So most low speed operation is handled by the rear carb only. The AFR and the plugs are white when comin in off the highway but in town, the center plugs appear slightly darker which is probably due to the dual plane intake.

So I decided to do something I've been wanting to try and that's to use a direct link between the carbs. I reset the idle mixture screws on the front carb and tweaked the curb idle. It feels more responsive and the AFR readings are much more stable. I'm going to leave it like this for awhile and see how it affects the mileage. On our trip this weekend, we averaged 15.2 mpg which was the same as the trip to Bowling Green. So that should be a good baseline. We have one more long trip planned which will give me a chance to compare.

[mongocanfly]

Congrats on making the trip...sounds like your getting a handle on it..

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by mongocanfly

Congrats on making the trip...sounds like your getting a handle on it..

I think so, Greg. I started over with a baseline calibration for the 4L60E and tweaked it a bit today. Shift points are much better but still need to work on the converter lockup. Not sure I can get where I want to be until the new converter is in, but it's pretty easy to adjust the settings with the laptop. The engine drops about 500 rpm when the converter locks and it feels like I popped the parachute.

[Low Elco]

Glad you got there and back ok.

[Ol Blue K20]

Sounds like a fairly successful trip. It sounds like you're getting the bugs chased out.

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by Low Elco

Glad you got there and back ok.

Me too, Chip. We have one more trip planned to a car show in Sedalia a week from now. It will be a good chance to tweak the transmission calibration.

Originally Posted by Ol Blue K20

Sounds like a fairly successful trip. It sounds like you're getting the bugs chased out.

That we are, Dale. Slowly but surely. My punch list for the winter is growing, but I hope the car will be good to go after all the revisions. My main source of heartburn is the overheating. After much research, I ordered a pair of SPAL fans to replace the Perma Cool ones that aren't keeping up. I'll probably have to pull the core support to install them since they're 11" instead of 10" and will have to be staggered to fit in the available space.

[Vic1947]

Received an email from Speedway with a link to some radiator tech. One thing led to another and I ran across a thread on a forum that suggested that at least some overheating issues might be traced to using an aftermarket thermostat and housing. Apparently, the LS water pump has a bypass hole used for warmup that when left uncovered by using a SBC thermostat will cause hot water to recirculate in the engine rather than being routed thru the radiator. The LS thermostat has a plunger that supposedly blocks this flow once the engine reaches operating temperature. It looks like the housing on my FEAD from Synister Products is an aftermarket piece. No way to know without removing it what type thermostat is in place. So I reckon when I pull the radiator and fan shroud to replace the fans, I'll have a look.

Another post suggested that replacing the water pump with a high volume unit would help reduce overheating. I can't tell from the numbers on my w/p what it is exactly so I'm unsure whether a swap would be useful. There may be other numbers cast into it, but there's too much stuff in the way to tell. While I have it apart, I want to do all I can to address potential cooling issues because I only want to do this once.

I bought a replacement 4L60E case off eBay. It looked really nice in the listing, but what they sent wasn't the same as the picture in ad. Filthy as all get out and a totally different part number than they showed. When I asked them if the case they sent was identical to the one they advertised they said "should be". How's that for commitment? This kind of practice is why I hate buying eBay junk.