Project Vitamin C-10

[Alan's Classic]

Started working on the rear wheel tubs. I used a zizz wheel to cut off bolts that were spinning. Then scraped all undercoating off.



Some prior attempts at body work by PO's



I used this air hammer bit (it's my mobile plannishing hammer) to help massage the metal back into shape. I used a big piece of iron (frame rack) as a back plate while using the hammer.



Here is the metal almost back in shape and some of the tools used in the process. I also used a ball peen hammer.



Here is what the other side looked like when I started on it.



Also primed the column.



And then based with the same color as the gauge pods. This is base only no pix of it cleared yet.

[TimE]

Looking good!!

Wish I had your skills Alan. I'm trying though!

[Captainfab]

Hey Alan is this something that can be bought or was it custom made? Is that a regular air hammer you use it in? Your truck is coming along nicely. This thread is one of the ones I have to check everyday.

[jason65]

Looking good Alan. What are you gonna do for a bed floor?

[ChiefRocka]

Nice job on the column Alan...the end result looks like perfection !!

[Strodder]

Looken good Allan. I use the same end on my air hammer. It works on other things too. I ground off a little on the edge so it would fit some King Pin bearings. It worked perfectly.

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by TimE

Looking good!!

Wish I had your skills Alan. I'm trying though!

Thanks Tim, Kudos' too you for what you are doing. We all have to start somewhere. I couldn't imagine doing this kind of surgery without any experience. If you ever get a chance to replace a welded on piece that is OE and not after market, do it. You will be amazed at how much easier it is.

Originally Posted by Captainfab

Hey Alan is this something that can be bought or was it custom made? Is that a regular air hammer you use it in? Your truck is coming along nicely. This thread is one of the ones I have to check everyday.

Thanks Captain, It's a long barrel air hammer from snapon. I've used several different types and this is my favorite cause I can control the throttle really nicely. Some air hammers are either on or off no in between. You could probably use an air regulator of some sort on other hammers. The bit can be bought at many locations. I got mine off a tool truck. I even use it to put door skins on. My air hammer has a quick release on it for the bits. It replaces the old spring. Money well spent. $30-40

Originally Posted by jason65

Looking good Alan. What are you gonna do for a bed floor?

Thanks Jason, I'll be using redoak (maybe) with polished stainless steel strips.

Originally Posted by ChiefRocka

Nice job on the column Alan...the end result looks like perfection !!

Thanks John, Had some trying times with the column, but it turned out pretty good overall. Now I have to reassyemble it with out scratching.

Originally Posted by Strodder

Looken good Allan. I use the same end on my air hammer. It works on other things too. I ground off a little on the edge so it would fit some King Pin bearings. It worked perfectly.

Thanks Strodder, I also use it on frame rails during a frame pull on areas I can't use a regular hammer to stress relieve the metal.

On to new news. Got another shelving unit. Nice and clean for now........



I can finally get all or most of my loose pieces for the truck back in one spot.



Also picked up this air compressor. It's a 7.5HP 80 gal 2 stage pump. I need to locate a pump and pully and test the motor. If anyone has any connections for a pump please let me know.



Blocked both the doors with 400



Used a mini DA with 400 on some rough areas of the jamb and scuffed the rest down with a grey scotch brite pad. Ready for sealer and some color.

[Inverter]

Dang Alan, You sure know your metal work. I noticed this thread is always at the top. You have em sittin on the edge.
I enjoy lookin through here,always somethin new.

[Strodder]

Originally Posted by Alan's Classic

Also picked up this air compressor. It's a 7.5HP 80 gal 2 stage pump. I need to locate a pump and pully and test the motor. If anyone has any connections for a pump please let me know.

I don't know your budget, but here's some.

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w..._6970_87+90145

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by Inverter

Dang Alan, You sure know your metal work. I noticed this thread is always at the top. You have em sittin on the edge.
I enjoy lookin through here,always somethin new.

Thanks man. I try.

Originally Posted by Strodder

I don't know your budget, but here's some.

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w..._6970_87+90145

Thanks for the link. I don't have a budget anymore. I was hoping someone had one laying around that was extra or there motor was bad. I can always use the tank for extra storage. I sure would like to have the extra pressure and volume.

Got out in the shop for quite a while today. Spent most of it cleaning up. Tony and Strodder's shop is my inspiration. Maybe someday I'll get it right.
The pile in the floor is trash.





Got a blind hung and somemore family antiques hung.



On too the truck. The column is back in.



Nuetral safety



Ummmmmm..........I think I know where everything goes.



Now the fun part sanding the jambs getting the cab ready for paint. There is still alot of work to do to get the cab ready.

[scotts62]

Wow man its looking really good!!

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by scotts62

Wow man its looking really good!!

Thanks Scott. Sometimes I wonder if I will ever drive it.

Left work early today due to lack of work. Worked again on the column to see if I could get it back together. Here is kind of a step by step. The tilt mechanism is already in.

Here is the tilt spring going in.



I found that a #2 phillips does a great job of pushing the spring and doing a 1/4 turn to lock in place.



Go ahead and run the turn signal switch wires if you haven't done so yet. Then install the upper shroud.



Install the turn signal switch



Install the hazard light knob, turn signal lever and horn contact with spring under it.



Here's a fun part. Make sure the column shaft to the gearbox is installed. If not the steering shaft will push down into the column and will be impossible to get the snap ring on. Getting it off wasn't fun either. It probably would have been easier with it installed in the truck when removing it (snap ring). I don't have the special tool that they called for. I used 2 medium common screw drivers and pushed evenly on both sides of the snap ring until I got the snap ring to lock into place.





Other than getting a new steering wheel and some new (bling) levers. I can call this done. As long as it works.



While I was down in the floor I noticed that the holes that I drilled to mount the fuse panel have an issue. The top left hole is right behind the inner fender flange. Uh Oh.

[sdailey]

Good job on getting that column back together.

Bummer about the bolt holes though.

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by sdailey

Good job on getting that column back together.

Bummer about the bolt holes though.

Thanks Shannon. The hole just goes along with all my other learning experinces

I got something else completed today. The sway bar brackets got mounted to the frame. I was just dreading drilling upside down.



Also ripped the front sheet metal off again to finish up the cab. Notice the gloves to protect the paint on the frame.

[4dranch]

Super work Alan,
Ever thought about doing a show on the PBS channel?
You could call it "THIS OLE TRUCK"

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by 4dranch

Super work Alan,
Ever thought about doing a show on the PBS channel?
You could call it "THIS OLE TRUCK"

[Alan's Classic]

Found this damaged F$rd Ranger tailgate at work today and the wheels started turning.



I think ya'll know where I'm going with this.



I can do body work, but I struggle with custom stuff. I believe I can make this work. The latch on the bedside post is just stuck in there. The center of the latch hole needs to be about 3" from the top according to my quick measurements. Actually the top hole of the stricker might line up with the factory bolt hole at the top on the bedside.



Here are all of the pieces laid out.



I think with a little modifications this will fit.



The complete handle assy is a little thick. But if I put a curved raised access panel on the inside of the tailgate it might work. I've got to do some more measurements. No matter how much I think about it I won't think of everything. I've seen alot of ideas posted about chainless tailgates, but haven't seen one done like this. If I have I can't recall it. Please give me some feedback about possible problems I might incur.

[Strodder]

Just a thought Allan. Put the handle on the inside, and keep the tailgate smooth. Like they do on the newer trucks. They make a handle relocation kit for them. Like this one.
https://www.carolinaclassictrucks.co...relocator.html

[502tripower]

Allen your progress is looking good. Love the silver on the insterments and column. I did a similar deal on the tailgate using a wrecked late models S10 gate. I also thought about putting the handle on the inside but as you said it was to wide for the gate and would have had to build a panel to accommodate the depth of the handle. I cut down the strikes and latches and they nicely into the bedsides and gate. In order to attach them I drilled holes were they needed to attach and then drilled and tapped some 5/16" flat bar. Then pulled the flat bar up in form behind with a piece of tie wire welded to the end of some alltread that I had screwed into the mounting holes. Then plug welded it in. I decided to just weld some nuts onto the latches and use some nice chrome Pike nuts and made some stainless bezels for the pikes to slide on instead of messing with the latch. I also welded up the detent on the bedside. I will use the pike nuts on the outside of the tailgate were the cable attaches as well.

[jason65]

Example.

[neto]

Alan I have been thinking of doing the same thing because I haven't seen it before either and would like the one handle tailgate. I can't wait to see how you do it. Hey is there enough room in the upper part of the tailgate to fit the linkage?

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by Strodder

Just a thought Allan. Put the handle on the inside, and keep the tailgate smooth. Like they do on the newer trucks. They make a handle relocation kit for them. Like this one.
https://www.carolinaclassictrucks.co...relocator.html

Thanks Strodder for the link. That looks like it would fit quite well

Originally Posted by 502tripower

Allen your progress is looking good. Love the silver on the insterments and column. I did a similar deal on the tailgate using a wrecked late models S10 gate. I also thought about putting the handle on the inside but as you said it was to wide for the gate and would have had to build a panel to accommodate the depth of the handle. I cut down the strikes and latches and they nicely into the bedsides and gate. In order to attach them I drilled holes were they needed to attach and then drilled and tapped some 5/16" flat bar. Then pulled the flat bar up in form behind with a piece of tie wire welded to the end of some alltread that I had screwed into the mounting holes. Then plug welded it in. I decided to just weld some nuts onto the latches and use some nice chrome Pike nuts and made some stainless bezels for the pikes to slide on instead of messing with the latch. I also welded up the detent on the bedside. I will use the pike nuts on the outside of the tailgate were the cable attaches as well.

I couldn't remember for sure if I've seen it before. Since you posted your pix I remember now going thru your thread. Thanks for the pix. Nice work.

Originally Posted by jason65

Example.

Originally Posted by neto

Alan I have been thinking of doing the same thing because I haven't seen it before either and would like the one handle tailgate. I can't wait to see how you do it. Hey is there enough room in the upper part of the tailgate to fit the linkage?

There seems to be alot of room for the linkage. There is a big cavity all the way across the top.

[tiggamonsta]

What about using a couple door actuators attached directly to each latch. You could hide a button or make it remote activated. Then there is no handle or rods to deal with.

[Captainfab]

Alan

For a handle/latch on your tailgate, you could possibly use a universal paddle latch like is used on toolboxes and comercial vehicles. I've used them on custom toolboxes and such that I've fabricated. I usually buy that type of hardware from these guys
http://www.austinhardware.com/catego...%20&%20Catches

They have ones that actuate rods or cables. You might have to search a little bit to find the one you want. I believe they have a warehouse in GA also. Just an idea

[kizer]

Say its not so..... Ford parts in your Chevy.

Never mind I have ford parts in my Jeep so Who am I to talk. hahahaha

I posted this a while back when I found it, but here it is again. Just to give you more ideas to kick around.



Some info on this page
http://www.cj-8.com/forum/showthread...=18796&page=12

Latches seem to be from a mazda.
Paddle handle from a Jeep TJ. Says he went with a TJ since its metal opposed to a YJ that uses plastic. YJ are the square headlight model just in case you don't know the difference.

Of course I'd center it on the inside of the bed, but using a Jeep handle it would give you a more narrow throw unless of course its to long. I didn't measure it or put any research into it. Just another idea.