Project '64 Cheapskate

[rusty76]

Thanks for the info. Make sure you show us your findings on shock theory. I'll be interested. Merry Christmas.

[jkeating1]

I was thinking that in one of your posts that you were concerned the steering column may contact the upper control arm, due to the frame height difference of the donor--and that you had a fix in mind. Did I miss the fix, or did I just dream that? Given your capacity for ingenious engineering, I don't want to miss a trick!

[kustombrad]

H4 headlights are the best thing ever for us who drive the early stuff and want way bright headlights! I started using them in the 80's and am hooked. The flat lenses I originally got for my truck but they didn't look right with the curve of my fenders so I gave them to Alex. They look pretty cool on his truck! I got a convex face set for mine. Now here's the cool thing with those lights...you can replace the bulbs! They come factory with 55/60 watt low/high beam but I always installed 55/100's so I had killer high beams. I've always run good alternators so I didn't have any issues and really liked how the lights worked. On our trip home from Bakersfield in October I figured it's over, I can't see for crap anymore, not knowing Alex was thinking the same thing. When I rolled up to my garage I realized my drivers headlight was way dim. I figured I'm not playing fair now since every new car has stupid bright LED or HID it was my turn. I grabbed a set of "off road use only" 90/130 watt bulbs (no blue!) and figured it was my turn to piss off the world. They're soooooo awesome and I only got flashed once since I've installed them and that was from a lowered Honda (I'm pretty sure I blew his eyebrows off when I returned fire) so I'm good!

[chevyrestoguy]

Originally Posted by jkeating1

I was thinking that in one of your posts that you were concerned the steering column may contact the upper control arm, due to the frame height difference of the donor--and that you had a fix in mind. Did I miss the fix, or did I just dream that? Given your capacity for ingenious engineering, I don't want to miss a trick!

I cycled the suspension from full compression to full droop, and when the suspension was in full compression, the steering shaft was pretty close to the upper control arm. I didn't have the lower control arm snubber installed, but as an added safety measure, we clearanced the control arm. For the fix, we went "old school". I marked the area, which was about the size of a quarter and warmed it with a torch. Once it got to temperature, I grabbed a 1" diameter steel rod and laid it position and smacked it with a mini-sledge. It left a perfect radius with no sharp edges, and I didn't have to remove the arm and weld in a section of tubing. A simple, effective fix.

[rusty76]

Originally Posted by kustombrad

H4 headlights are the best thing ever for us who drive the early stuff and want way bright headlights! I started using them in the 80's and am hooked. The flat lenses I originally got for my truck but they didn't look right with the curve of my fenders so I gave them to Alex. They look pretty cool on his truck! I got a convex face set for mine. Now here's the cool thing with those lights...you can replace the bulbs! They come factory with 55/60 watt low/high beam but I always installed 55/100's so I had killer high beams. I've always run good alternators so I didn't have any issues and really liked how the lights worked. On our trip home from Bakersfield in October I figured it's over, I can't see for crap anymore, not knowing Alex was thinking the same thing. When I rolled up to my garage I realized my drivers headlight was way dim. I figured I'm not playing fair now since every new car has stupid bright LED or HID it was my turn. I grabbed a set of "off road use only" 90/130 watt bulbs (no blue!) and figured it was my turn to piss off the world. They're soooooo awesome and I only got flashed once since I've installed them and that was from a lowered Honda (I'm pretty sure I blew his eyebrows off when I returned fire) so I'm good!

You guys have really sold me on this. My wife drives a little Kia and every body in their mother blind you while driving....oh that sucks, but one day.....lol.

[chevyrestoguy]

Here's a quick shot of some wiring work I've been doing. Although the harness connectors are in the stock locations on the firewall, I'm trying to hide all of the wiring as much as I can. Here is a picture of the forward lighting harness, which normally lays on the inner fender. I decided to hide it inside the inner fender instead, so the harness makes a 90 degree turn and goes through a grommet. The harness is covered with a woven overbraid that I bought from So Cal Speedshop. I made my own clamp standoffs and JB Welded them inside the inner fender and clamped the harness to them.

I'll post up more pictures soon.

[ChuckDriver]

Nice!

[rusty76]

That's cool.

[jkeating1]

Originally Posted by chevyrestoguy

.......For the fix, we went "old school". I marked the area, which was about the size of a quarter and warmed it with a torch. Once it got to temperature, I grabbed a 1" diameter steel rod and laid it position and smacked it with a mini-sledge. It left a perfect radius with no sharp edges, and I didn't have to remove the arm and weld in a section of tubing. A simple, effective fix.

That's the highly technical procedure I plan to use to "clearance" my '67 frame for the power steering box--I believe a 2 1/16"trailer ball will make a good impression.

[Palf70Step]

Originally Posted by chevyrestoguy

Here's a quick shot of some wiring work I've been doing. Although the harness connectors are in the stock locations on the firewall, I'm trying to hide all of the wiring as much as I can. Here is a picture of the forward lighting harness, which normally lays on the inner fender. I decided to hide it inside the inner fender instead, so the harness makes a 90 degree turn and goes through a grommet. The harness is covered with a woven overbraid that I bought from So Cal Speedshop. I made my own clamp standoffs and JB Welded them inside the inner fender and clamped the harness to them.

I'll post up more pictures soon.

Very nice!!

[bj383ss]

Look forward to the pictures of it mounted up. So the overbraid you used is it going to be weatherproof on the underside of the fender? I know a lot of the 93-02 Camaro guys do this same trick. But I was worried about the wires being exposed to road grime and such. Its a fantastic idea and looks very clean in the engine bay.

Bret

[rusty76]

It's funny how the details makes things so cool.

[chevyrestoguy]

I did more wiring today, before the rain came and stopped my progress. I mounted the horn (stock '95 Tahoe) on the forward side of the core support, and it tucks out of site behind the core support wedge panels. I wired the horn using a Weatherpack connector, and I coiled and stowed the electric fan wire (the orange wiring in the picture). I am running a mechanical clutch fan, but I retained the wiring just in case I wanted to upgrade to an electric fan in the future. The next step is to figure how I want to route the headlight wiring to the grille, and I'm thinking of using a grommet and sneaking it in directly adjacent to the driver's side headlight.

[rusty76]

I like your thinking.

[chevyrestoguy]

Although I haven't been posting much lately, I have been working on the '64 as much as possible. I have been doing wiring mostly, and spending way too much time trying to hide it all. I have also been trying to figure out a clean way to route the PCV and brake booster lines. My intake is an Air gap, and Edelbrock decided to place the fitting location for the vacuum t-fitting directly below the rear float bowl of the Holley. After much research to determine a solution, I found that this is a very common issue and there are dozens of threads online with guys in my exact same predicament. I could run a 1" spacer, but I don't like the way they look. I am deciding between whether to run the PCV line forward and drill and install a fitting in the intake plenum or to just remove the intake and drill my fittings in an out of sight location. Here's a pic of the line if I run it forward (disregard the crusty old mock-up Holley and the fact that the TV cable isn't in it's bracket):

I also built some wiring conduits for the wiring that ends up on the front of the engine. It's just 3/8" tubing, with 3/8 clamps under the intake bolts. Real simple, and it cleans up the top of the engine. On the driver's side, I brought the alternator wiring up to the mount and routed it under and around the backside:

I'm still doing the finishing touches on the gauge cluster, and I'll post up pictures when I'm done. It's turned out nice, so far.

I think I'm just going to bite the bullet and yank the intake and start drilling. The current PCV tube route is really close to the arc of the throttle linkage, and putting the fittings in the rear will make the engine look more tidy.

[rusty76]

How did you cap your tubing for the wire to run through without the wires rubbing raw on the ends? Did you just flare them and went from there? I'm just curious. I really like this idea and think it looks great! Killer work as always.

[bj383ss]

Man that looks fantastic. I will be stealing that idea. Always look forward to your updates and pics they are very inspiring.

[chevyrestoguy]

Originally Posted by rusty76

How did you cap your tubing for the wire to run through without the wires rubbing raw on the ends? Did you just flare them and went from there? I'm just curious. I really like this idea and think it looks great! Killer work as always.

I flared the end with a single flare and used the 5/8 inverted flare fitting that came on the line and trimmed a .625 bypass cap and slid it on the end. I then drilled a hole in the cap for the wire. I wanted to have a waterproof assembly because I like to wash my engines often.

Originally Posted by bj383ss

Man that looks fantastic. I will be stealing that idea. Always look forward to your updates and pics they are very inspiring.

Thanks! I wish I was working faster and this truck was running and driving!

[Low Elco]

I like the conduit. Glad you're still movin'!

[rusty76]

Originally Posted by chevyrestoguy

I flared the end with a single flare and used the 5/8 inverted flare fitting that came on the line and trimmed a .625 bypass cap and slid it on the end. I then drilled a hole in the cap for the wire. I wanted to have a waterproof assembly because I like to wash my engines often.


Thanks! I wish I was working faster and this truck was running and driving!

I was wondering about that. Do you have any pics purty please. I'm now curious...lol. Thanks.

[Tazimafied]

I had to register for the site when I stumbled upon this build via google trying to research my own truck just to say awesome build!

I just wish I had seen it before you got all your interior parts. We could have done some serious trading. I have a 66 C20 with an automatic and want to convert to manual.



Finding all the parts to convert isn't easy so congrats on getting so lucky with your finds.

If you haven't figured out the size for your front tires yet I can help. You said they were 205/60x15s or possibly 215/60x15's. Both of those sizes give you about a 4" sidewall and increasing the first number will increase the width of the tire more than the sidewall. A 215/65x15 will give you a 5.5" sidewall with an overall width of 8.5" and a 205/65x15 will give you a 5.25" sidewall with an overall width of 8". Measure your rear tire and just match it up. I would recommend the 215/65x15.

About the 83... I feel your pain. The electronical stuff is hard to figure out especially if it is all melted down and you have no references to go off of. I recently resurrected an 82 K5 that had been sitting for 5 years. It was all mechanical vacuum and the thermal vacuum port in the air cleaner was missing. After searching in the scrap yards for two weeks I finally went to Orilley and just matched a picture of the hole in the air cleaner up with something on the screen. Passed smog the first time. Give it a shot. you would be surprised at what replacement parts you can get through your local parts retailers.

Oh, and your slab leaks. My house was built in 64 and still has the original copper in the attic so that is what I would recommend. Just stub up in to the wall where your water line comes in and go up the wall in to the attic. No more leaks.

Thanks for all the ideas and how to and good luck with the rest of your build. It is really getting me motivated to get started on mine. I will definitely keep following. I can't wait to see the first fire video. You are going to post it right?

[chevyrestoguy]

Hey, you're kinda local to me! My son used to travel over to your area when his football team played Burroughs.

Thanks for the kind words on my build thread. It's been a really fun build, but I'm at the point of doing the really tedious stuff like wring and plumbing, and I'm getting tried of it. I have to keep my head down and continue to knock stuff off the list. I'm getting there, but I am really particular about the way stuff looks, so it takes me a little longer to get things done to a point where I'm satisfied.

The '83 went to a new owner in December. I just had too many projects, and I really needed to thin out the herd. It was a great project truck for the new owner, 100% rust and dent free, a shortbed fleetside, and a lot of added upgrades. I would have loved to have built it myself, but it was the right thing to do, and I actually feel pretty good that I let it go.

I think I'm OK for now on the slab leaks. We both know that the high alkaline soil and the small seismic activity we have in the desert is hell on slab leaks. Every few weeks, I go out to my meter and check to see if the meter is spinning, which will indicate a leak if everything in the house is turned off. So far, so good. If it happens again, I'm going to Pex the entire house.

Are you still considering swapping over to a manual trans? If so, I have a good buddy who is looking for an automatic column if you ever decide to sell. He's building a really nice '65, doing it all himself. He's had some medical issues lately, but he still continues to work on it. I try to help him whenever I can because he's a good guy.

Yes, I plan on doing a first fire video. I can't wait until this truck comes alive!

[rusty76]

You and 100 others are waiting for the first fire video.....Keep on keeping dude. We all can't wait to see the truck some more.!

[Tazimafied]

Originally Posted by chevyrestoguy

It's been a really fun build, but I'm at the point of doing the really tedious stuff like wring and plumbing, and I'm getting tried of it.

I am the same way. Looks like you are really good at it though.

Originally Posted by chevyrestoguy

If it happens again, I'm going to Pex the entire house.

Exactly what I would do. My mom managed apartments in San Diego and had to deal with them all the time. Not fun at all.

Originally Posted by chevyrestoguy

Are you still considering swapping over to a manual trans? If so, I have a good buddy who is looking for an automatic column if you ever decide to sell. He's building a really nice '65, doing it all himself. He's had some medical issues lately, but he still continues to work on it. I try to help him whenever I can because he's a good guy.

I am definitely going to swap it out. I have the 420 but I need the bell, trans tunnel, shifter and well... everything else. Won't be easy but my 64 was way too much fun to drive in that config. I am willing to sell but am having trouble finding a good manual column.

[mattbert56]

Digging both of your builds man. Fricken sweet work.