68 project

[GR8-68]

I checked and I only ha e 2 3/4" from top of axle to frame

[GR8-68]

Tearing down the 350, time to get this baby to a machine shop !!!

[GR8-68]

Well it is down to the essentials, the top end is tore down tomorrow it goes to the stand to remove the pistons and crank then off to the machine shop to be cleaned and balanced and blueprinted. I was unsure of the validity of the previous owner saying it was rebuilt but it is obviously very clean and the pistons are .030. We will see where this goes from here with the build .

[NC_John]

Originally Posted by GR8-68

I bet she doesn't, but you can bring her to our show room that is what I do for a living build kitchen and bath cabinetry

Cool. You guys have a website?

[NC_John]

Originally Posted by GR8-68

Well it is down to the essentials, the top end is tore down tomorrow it goes to the stand to remove the pistons and crank then off to the machine shop to be cleaned and balanced and blueprinted. I was unsure of the validity of the previous owner saying it was rebuilt but it is obviously very clean and the pistons are .030. We will see where this goes from here with the build .

I don't know what kind of power you are looking for Larry, but I still have my long block from my last build. The heads are the blah originals that came on the truck but they are completely rebuilt with new guides, valves, hardened seats, comp cam springs and roller rockers. You can buy these cheaper than have an old set rebuilt.

Crank is fresh, new pistons, comp cam timing set, cam, lifters etc. I would be surprised if I had a thousand miles on any of it. Just got bored and wanted more.

All I want to keep is my original numbers matching block.

[GR8-68]

Thanks I will let you know, I am buying a set of preassembled heads, probably edelbrock. I will be reusing the new pistons that are in it and going with a Holley sniper efi setup

[NC_John]

Originally Posted by GR8-68

Thanks I will let you know, I am buying a set of preassembled heads, probably edelbrock. I will be reusing the new pistons that are in it and going with a Holley sniper efi setup

I think those edelbrock e-street setups make pretty good power when you get the matched sets. You should be all set.

[GR8-68]

Originally Posted by NC_John

I think those edelbrock e-street setups make pretty good power when you get the matched sets. You should be all set.

That is exactly what I was looking at, just have to get some debt paid down first though

[cknfrmr]

that dang C notch ur putting in now. ha ha ha. Sorry couldn't resist.

[GR8-68]

Worked on getting motor and tranny out yesterday motor is on the stand and ready for bottom end to come out. Frame looks bare now. Lol. Also fitted the cab on k10 to make sure everything is clearing well, few minor adjustments but all is well.

[GR8-68]

Spent some time at the shop today, got the rear tank all mounted so now ready to start running my lines for the fuel.

Thanks Robert for your help putting the tank up in the frame dont feel bad for drilling the holes wrong though I will get you counseling. jk

[cknfrmr]

Thanks. Stopped off on way home and got you some oven mitts and aloe for next time. HA HA. Gonna sit in my truck again and think for awhile. Freak the neighbors out again.

[67ChevyRedneck]

I don't remember your truck sitting that low, but you definitely need that c-notch!

[kehstr]

I'm going to mounting my Boyd's tank this weekend, is everything pretty straight forward to mount? or is there anything that I should watch for?

[GR8-68]

Hgad to put the tag on there

[GR8-68]

Originally Posted by kehstr

I'm going to mounting my Boyd's tank this weekend, is everything pretty straight forward to mount? or is there anything that I should watch for?

Pretty straight forward, I used 5/16 serrated head bolts, 1 1/2" washers, 5/16thrubber washers btween bolt and tank and between tank and frame screwed into a5/16th extruded u-nut. If I ever have an issue I can pull the tank from the bottom without removing bed or bumper.

[GR8-68]

Had a good day but was a bit disappointed to find out the 350 was only a 2 bolt main not sure which way I will go now

[Oregon 1967 GMC]

personal preference of course. I think a 2 bolt main block would be just fine. Of course my small block 400 is a two bolt. Don't know how far up the power grid you're going..It looks great, love the meaty rear end.
if you have a second check this out.
http://www.badasscars.com/index.cfm/...d=83/prd83.htm

So for a basic performance engine making 400 HP or so, do you really need to build it on a 4 bolt main block? The answer is; not really. Think of it like this, ALL of the early Vette 327's with 365 and 375 HP were 2 bolt main blocks. There was no such thing as a 4 bolt main 327. How about the infamous 68 "MO" 302 Z/28's which were famous for 8,000 RPM shifts in stock trim! They came stock with 11.25:1 compression and were indeed high winders that saw race track use quite often, and they were also 2 bolt main blocks!

[zicc1835]

Originally Posted by GR8-68

Pretty straight forward, I used 5/16 serrated head bolts, 1 1/2" washers, 5/16thrubber washers btween bolt and tank and between tank and frame screwed into a5/16th extruded u-nut. If I ever have an issue I can pull the tank from the bottom without removing bed or bumper.

great idea Larry I will follow your lead when i get there.. thanks for sharing

[GR8-68]

Originally Posted by zicc1835

great idea Larry I will follow your lead when i get there.. thanks for sharing

Thanks, all the hardware I picked up at Lowes.

[GR8-68]

Originally Posted by Oregon 1967 GMC

personal preference of course. I think a 2 bolt main block would be just fine. Of course my small block 400 is a two bolt. Don't know how far up the power grid you're going..It looks great, love the meaty rear end.
if you have a second check this out.
http://www.badasscars.com/index.cfm/...d=83/prd83.htm

So for a basic performance engine making 400 HP or so, do you really need to build it on a 4 bolt main block? The answer is; not really. Think of it like this, ALL of the early Vette 327's with 365 and 375 HP were 2 bolt main blocks. There was no such thing as a 4 bolt main 327. How about the infamous 68 "MO" 302 Z/28's which were famous for 8,000 RPM shifts in stock trim! They came stock with 11.25:1 compression and were indeed high winders that saw race track use quite often, and they were also 2 bolt main blocks!

I totally agree with you on all you stated, I think it is more of a heart issue I just thought I had something I didn't have, it is still going in the 68. It is a real good and clean block and has new pistons and does not have to be bored. So it is a money saver right from the git go. I have had a 400 sb in a 73 Nova I once built a 327 in a 1980 Monza Spyder I built and a 283 in a 79 Z28 that was built with no issues so I do not for see any issues here neither.

[Oregon 1967 GMC]

I hear you Larry. 68 is looking nice, keep up the fire brother!

[rusty76]

I was thinking the same thing as above about the two bolt. My 400 is a two bolt and honestly I never considered if I needed it to be a four bolt. I'll be honest if you were going to be making serious power the four bolt probably be on the same level as the two. Some guys build using a two bolt and use aftermarket caps. That way they get stronger caps instead of the stock stuff. But either way it comes down to what you are comfortable with. If you were building a 1000 hp engine you'd go aftermarket. Glad to see things are moving along for you.

[GR8-68]

Wheels and tires came in for the k10 , the old school look rocks

[rusty76]

Those look great