Restoring Rusty

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Chaplain

Dang...

That's what I said! Turned out nice, real nice.

[rich weyand]

I would polish it with Simichrome and a buffing wheel, and leave it at that. Used to do that all the time on motorcycle cases, triple trees, etc. The bikes with coated aluminum always looked like garbage after a couple years, because it is very hard to keep a clear coat on aluminum, and they would chip and flake off. Looks awful.

Here's what polished bare aluminum looks like.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by rich weyand

I would polish it with Simichrome and a buffing wheel, and leave it at that.

Thanks Rich, I will look into that, I was wondering about some sort of protection coat on the account that I thought aluminum from the factory comes with something on it, more importantly is that your Norton?

[rich weyand]

Originally Posted by Gregski

Thanks Rich, I will look into that, I was wondering about some sort of protection coat on the account that I thought aluminum from the factory comes with something on it, more importantly is that your Norton?

Nah, that's just a picture I found on the net.

Mine's an 850 Commando.

http://www.walmart.com/ip/37811052?w...362295&veh=sem

[Gregski]

and the belly of the bellhousing...

[Gregski]

ordered some parts for the clutch linkage,

needed a fork return spring (mine was broken) and yes there are two there a long and a short one, my long was was broken

got a new rubber boot for the fork

and a Z-bar rebuild kit, ie plastic bushings that hide inside there, mine was missing the one on the side of the bell housing - no bueno

[Gregski]

clutch fork boot, old and new one side by side

[Gregski]

so finally after six months figured out what this mistery "exhaust pipe" LOL spring was

it's actually a bellcrank ie Z-bar spring, two attach to it one short one and one long one, one side was already broken, and it was so brittle I broke off the other end trying to remove it off the frame rail

[Gregski]

so I am going to rebuild the Z-bar guts, and in addition tonight I wiggled the clutch pedal and noticed excessive free play so now I need to order / replace the bushings and maybe even the pedal pivot sleeve, oh well maybe my local NAPA will have those parts

I am on a mission to do this job right, and you know what I am actually enjoying this part, the learning / figuring it out part, good stuff

[Titomars]

I see whats next for your truck Gregski Those front shocks look like the OEM shocks that have been in place since that truck went down the assembly line.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Titomars

I see whats next for your truck Gregski Those front shocks look like the OEM shocks that have been in place since that truck went down the assembly line.

Yup, that is definitely on the list, the plan is to lower the truck at the same time

[LSX408]

Nice work Gregski, love watching the progress of the truck. Makes me want to get out and work on mine, come on spring!

[rusty76]

I swear it looks like you use a sandblaster on those parts. Too darn clean.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by rusty76

I swear it looks like you use a sandblaster on those parts. Too darn clean.

Man, I wish.

[Gregski]

cleaned up the fork and painted it, being careful not to paint the tin clip in which the bearing spins

not my best cleaning job, but it will do fer gobermint work

[Gregski]

also avoided getting paint in the ditch where the ball joint fulcrums

[Gregski]

next up to get cleaned up and a coat of paint was the beelcrank aka the Z-bar

I was careful not to get any paint inside the hollow tube, nor on the grease fitting

[y5mgisi]

Good job!

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by y5mgisi

Good job!

Thank you, I'm trying but right now it's like sinking in quick sand on this job, though I am learnin'

[Gregski]

so this Z-bar, well that's more than just a hollow pipe I tell you, there's quite a bit of engineering that goes into this rascal, literally

doing a clutch job where you replace the fly wheel, pilot bushing, clutch plate, clutch pressure plate housing, and throwout bearing, and not going the extra mile to take care of the 40 year old linkage is like quitting a marathon on mile 25

so when I peaked inside my Z-bar formerly the bar known as the bellcrank, I noticed right away it was missing a plastic bushing on the clutch side (white piece second from the left in the picture was missing originally) metal on metal didn't make for the smoothest of actions, it actually wore a groove in the pipe (I might could replace the entire Z-bar, we'll see), add to that dried up grease, dust, and rust, and kiss your smooth action good bye, so... I went out and bought some replacement plastic bushings and these silly felt gaskets, third piece from the right (pretty worthless universal junk)

so here is my attempt at breaking down it's anatomy (pretty much all there except I am missing what I call a star washer in front of the bolt on the far right, space left open)

[Gregski]

TWO WORDS: Scope Creep !!!

Say what amigo?

Scope creep, you set out to do A, B, and C and end up doing A, B, C, D, E, F, G, and H. As is what the H _ L L, lol

So I just had to wiggle that clutch pedal didn't I?

Yup, sure did, and sure as _ _ it, there was too much play, as my buddy says "What? A 40 year old farm truck not to factory spec, no way!" and I love the guy he makes me laugh

So it was time to remove the pedal and take a looksie... and here's the anatomy of a clutch pedal

what? failed plastic parts, plastic bushings... plastic! say it aint so, jk

[Gregski]

well as luck would have it you can't take out Mrs. Clutch Pedal without hearing it from her neighbor Mr. Brake Pedal, after all it's like they're joined at the hip, they share the same long bolt which they pivot on, you want clutch pedal, you get clutch and brake pedal FREE of charge, LOL

so here's the anatomy of the brake pedal, pretty much same prognosis, we need new plastic bushings and a lots of cleaning

Question for anybody reading: What do we use to lube up the metal pivot sleeve and them bushings, what type of grease?

[rich weyand]

Originally Posted by Gregski

Question for anybody reading: What do we use to lube up the metal pivot sleeve and them bushings, what type of grease?

Lubriplate lithium grease. Stable over a very broad temperature so you don't have the clutch and brakes work differently when it's cold versus when it's hot. Excellent for metal on metal, metal on plastic/nylon bushings, roller bearings, etc.

http://www.skygeek.com/lubriplate-63...4-oz-tube.html

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by rich weyand

Lubriplate lithium grease. Stable over a very broad temperature so you don't have the clutch and brakes work differently when it's cold versus when it's hot. Excellent for metal on metal, metal on plastic/nylon bushings, roller bearings, etc.

http://www.skygeek.com/lubriplate-63...4-oz-tube.html

Rich, thank you so much, not only do you take the time to help but you include links to get to the item you describe, how awesome is that.

My turn....

http://i.istockimg.com/file_thumbvie...er-bottles.jpg

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by rich weyand

Lubriplate lithium grease. Stable over a very broad temperature so you don't have the clutch and brakes work differently when it's cold versus when it's hot. Excellent for metal on metal, metal on plastic/nylon bushings, roller bearings, etc.

http://www.skygeek.com/lubriplate-63...4-oz-tube.html

How about this one from Home Depot Rich, so I don't have to wait on the shipping? Will this work?

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Lucas-Oil...0533/202535870